NorthCoast

Don't think that will work for our cars since we have a cable driven speed sensor.

Lol...is it broken or just unplugged? Mine came undone when I did the lift. What a pain to plug back into the speedo.

I used to have a little chart taped up on the dash for the speed conversions. Good thing to have since now you are actually going faster than the speedo says you are.

4k. Great little winch even came with a remote.

I've been looking for an Imp for awhile. I'll be watching this one.

From the junk yard . Came off a Honda Passport.

Lock washers and nuts. No need to weld.

No need to lengthen the steering shaft for what he has planned.

Easy. Just get some spring compressors. $15 from Harbor Freight.

Putting it on the calendar. First year for me.

Which trails? I haven't been back home to PT in years. Thinking seriously about making the trip especially since there will be a mudpit.

If you figure that out let me know. I can't read the CD I got with the instructions so mine are still in the bag. Anti-lift link up front.

No. I did the trimming for another set of tires I had.

I ran that way for 4 years and did tons of light/medium offroading and never had a problem with my axles. Adding the 1" OB body spacers actually helped my geometry.

4" The back is fine...not sure why I would need an alignment. You will need one since you are putting in all new struts. Mine are existing.

Before with OB struts and spacers... and After with 6" SJR lift.

8" strut spacers or are you extending the struts?

Here's a couple pics of her pinned down for freeway driving. Here's what I mean by pinned down. Now I need to fix the speedo and add the skid plate. No idea what happened to the speedometer. Maybe it pulled out when I raised the body?

I wish it was that simple. I checked them both then wrenched a wee bit too hard on the rocker cover bolts. Not once but twice. Luckily I had the spare engine sitting there and swapped the lifters since that was the quickest fix. I pulled the head off and realized I had the gasket on backwards. Definitely a face smacking moment. In my rush to get the engine done I checked most of the passages but not all and missed the oil pass through. The car is back together now and I'm loving the new engine. I did my first long range / high speed test this morning and drove the car to work. The power increase is delightful. It's fun to get a little chirp from the tires when transitioning from gravel to asphalt and not having to downshift on certain hills on my commute is nice.

Well now I'm a little ticked. Got the manifold out back on and started her up. She started right away and sounded good. One problem though, left head was pouring out oil. I'm confused. I torqued to the right specs. What else would cause this?

Send me a PM with your contact info when your post count hits 10. Split... The radiator hoses are too long. You should be fine with 16" and 18". Gloyale... Do you have any pics of the extended shift linkage?

Did you want just the body spacers or the strut spacers as well?

I did do the steering linkage already. I extended it 4 1/2". I haven't tested it out though. The brake lines were just unsecured from the struts and look like they'll be fine. For radiator hoses I got 18" and 20" flex hoses. Those will be going on tonight so I'll let you know if they're the right lengths. The one thing I haven't looked at yet is the shift linkage.

It's on all 4 now with only the smack to the face as the only mishap. Rear fenders were cut long ago when I had my old tires. They aren't trimmed much but I still wish I hadn't cut them.

I didn't take took many pics on day 2 because the Mrs giving me grief about helping with the rear strut towers and I was too busy fighting with the struts. I was trying to get them in without unbolting themfrom the A arm. I tried to use a crowbar to wiggle them in until my hand slipped off the crowbar and I punched myself in the face. I must have knocked some sense into myself because I gave up on that idea and unbolted the struts. So much easier that way. This was another spot where have stock hardware would have made it a breeze. If I had the original top hat studs I would not have to had unbolted them and they would have slid right into place. I finished the passenger side and then moved over to the driver side. When on the driver side I finally found a use for my stock jack! That made it so much easier to squeeze in the rear cross member block. Trailing arm bracket in... and the rear assembled. Then it was on to the anti-lift and trans blocks. Those were a breeze compared to everything else. Now onto the engine. Stock 2.2 to come out... I decided to just flip up the intake and leave it in while I swapped long blocks. I should have made that chain shorter because I didn't have enough height to get it all the way out. It's a good thing these engines aren't that heavy because I had to pick it up out of the engine bay and lift it over my brush guard. Swapped over the flywheel and clutch. When tightening the pressure plate bolts I misread the torque specs in the Hayne's manual and ended up snapping the head off a bolt. After that I had had enough and called it a day.