NorthWet

What Ross said, and... ... Tell me what parts you want to try and swap out and I will bring them out. I really need to "make the rounds" this weekend, and Lynnwood is just next door to my stop at edrach's.

I don't know any way that I can overstress what edrach said. My wife is still suffering after nearly 2 years from being backed over at 3 MPH. If your wife saw it coming and stiffened, turned, stepped on the brake, stepped on the clutch, or ANYTHING other than like sitting in a comfy chair at home, she is likely to have something that got jerked or tweaked. The body being what it is, it is normal to take 2-3 days for soft-tissue damage to show.

Lady, have you been living under a rock? Or too fixated on that blasted riding mower... or maybe the weekend? Just joking, honest!!! WCSS7 ought to be a pretty good get together. I might even be able to go see it... 35 miles away... If I get the Ok... ("honey, can I go? Please???") Welcome to the USMB!!!

What northguy said x2. Lots of us around the PS/PNW. You have some helpful folk not too far away, so shout out if you need some assistance.

That looks pretty nice. What did you use for materials? I do not have any information about placing materials between it and the roof. In the USA, what you have made is usually called a headliner. Again, very nice work!

As subeman90 said, just do the same thing that you did with your Loyale to check its rear diff ratio. Yes, there were different final drive ratios on different Legacies, but I am not yet "in" to Legacies enough to tell you what is what. It has been discussed before on the Board.

Mini 'jack: Turbone, unless my belief is wrong, the varistor wouldn't really work very well. Do you have a link, or are you going to make me go to XT6.net and search? :-p End 'jack

And the best part is that "it doesn't even need a crankshaft"!!! Useful... Their "photo-ignition" brought to my mind the old British "hot tube" ignition, minus the adjustability. (I know they are not really similar, but the practicality seemed about the same.) I guess I should look at HCCI before I poo-poo this idea much more. But it still looks like it combines all of the weak points of the Wankel with the complexity of an OHV recip engine... And, All-talk, it really does sound like fishing for VC money.

Honestly, I am surprised that it has been such an ordeal to find the right transmission. If I had to watch some mechanic do all of this I would go nuts. Yes, the binding of mismatched diff ratios (if that is what this) can cause all sorts of damage. I happen to have two 88 D/R 5-speeds, but distance and pre-allocation makes them unuseful for you. They are not that uncommon, especially around here, and I can't comprehend why it is such a problem for folks to find one for you. Good luck.

Assuming it has an electric fan, is the electric fan turning on?

Are you referring to engine-to-transmission bolt pattern? AFAIK, all of the ea82s are the same casting, and the patterns are all the same. EA81 is the same pattern, too.

"Death Ash"!!!

I am tired and didn't read the article thoroughly, but... ...they seem to make assertions that are unsubstantiated or blatantly wrong. This seems odd in an article on that site. "No need for oil" because the seals ride in the carriage and thus have no friction??? No emissions??? (HC emissions are aggravated by having lots of cool engine surfaces that are shielded from the combustion process; it was the carb'd Wankel's downfall). What the H*** is "photo-ignition"??? From the description, it is essentially a combo of preignition and detonation. on and on and on... I'm going back to bed and see if any of this makes sense later. :-\

To clarify a little, the variable clutch pack is a variable-duty-cycle pack; a solenoid varies how often/long (PCM or PWM???) the pack is engaged.

I ASSUME (insert standard joke here) that the radiator uses a make-and-break style temperature switch, as it controls the power to the fan, and it is either on or off. It is unsurprising to me that it is open (depending on radiator temp). I have no clue why thngs failed when you did the flush. Miles, are you pretty certain about which sensor is ECU and which is temp gauge? I am not doubting you , and it fits with me changing one and not getting my expected results. Its just kind of bass-ackwards to the MPFI units' placements (though wire-count makes sense).

Turbo D/R tranny... sounds like they sent you an RX tranny... REALLY odd. Are you nearer UCB and Montclaire, or Emeryville/Bay? Used to be gravel/dirt lots out along the frontage road near the Bay. Should still be gravel/dirt lots in the parks in the hills. Its been a decade.5 since I stomped around there, so maybe it has changed. I haven't run through the math, but your basic reasoning sounds good. Chalk marks are on the tires, right? Any significant difference between mark angles after 5-10 revolutions would indicate a mismatch. as naru mentions, the open-diffs wil likely confuse things if in the air. Regarding tires, one of my cars had 4 tires that were all nominally 185/70-13s, but they were different brands F-to-R. In heavy rain (wipers having trouble even on full blast), I switched it into 4WD at freeway speed and nearly slid off of the pavement due to the bind. Bind from minor mismatch shouldn't be so noticeable on loose surface, though.

I have looked inside of an MPFI ECU, and IIRC that ROM was soldered in place, not socketed. Makes it a little more of a pain to do anything with. The 6500-series micro in the MPFI ECU isn't that much of a pain to program. Probably still a few disassemblers available to reverse-engineer the code. I just don't think it is worth trying to re-invent a blackbox rather than going with the a more open platform like MS. Tweak on the fly, get real information about what is going right and wrong...

Some possibilities from an unknowing source (me): * Check diff fluid for ATF contamination/low level * Might be transfer clutch issues (back of tranny clutch pack and actuator solenoid * Might be a worn tailshaft seal area... I haven't heard if these make noise or not, but have heard that they can wear badly. Yes, it could be a u-joint. However, I have had very good experience with Japanese u-joints, having only seen 1 vehicle in 30+years that had a problem. My Datsun has over 300K on its 6 u-joints and they are all fine. Let us know what it sounds like when you get a chance to test drive.

Are you looking for for onroad or offroad tires? The same site has onroad in at least 205/60-13 and 225/50-13.

I have 7 of them, accidently acquired on cars. I don't know anything about them (other than mine are chrome; I can't tell about the ones in the picture), but I don't get out much.

The 1/4 mile is the poor-person's dyno. Hot-rodders have used it for years.

Well, actually I CYAF'd by typing AFAIK. (Sorry for the acronyms, but they look cute. ) As Miles said, the SPFI block will give you the highest compression ratio, and the best potential for power. The SPFI heads should be able to accept either an EA82 or EA81 carb manifold. You stated in your MarketPlace post that your reason was mostly to get rid of emissions controls. You can rid the MPFI system of all of its add on emissions controls, too, and not have to make major mods to the car to do so. My point is that you might want to discuss this further so that you can reach your goal with a minumum of fuss and a maximum of results.

I doubt it. Not much of a market, and the SPFI seems pretty well tuned already. MegaSquirt might be an good option.

The bang sounds like bind between the front and rear axles, caused by tire rotational differences. Miles point about matched tires is very important. Naru's suggestion on checking the rotational difference sounds very practical. Normally, as long as you are on a loose surface, bind isn't much of an issue unless either diff ratios are mismatched or tire diameters are mismatched. By rock-crawler, I was thinking of the folks amongst us that do not dodge those 3' boulders but go OVER them. To some of them, a few percentage points of difference in a low gear or intermediate gear might be important, especially as magnified by additional transfer cases and such. Umm... your car had a dual range and CCR sent you a single-range? Anyway check your tires for matched type/manufacturer, size, and wear. And try naru's rotational test.

Requested length measurement is approximately 15.75 inches (+/- .125 inch). I don't have a scale so I can't give you a weight. Mine happens to be a Datsun R160. An option for you might be an R180 or R200 from Datsun/Nissans. Same measure/mounting as the R160, just a larger pumpkin area and a little more weight. The R180's are common on Datsun Z's.