NorthWet

I've been interested in an "open" injection system for years (decade at least). Clayton hooked me on it pretty much the first time he mentioned it. Shadow, kudos to you for all that I have heard that you have done.

I should be passing through your area in the next week or so. Gotta score some parts once I get paid. (Been working split double shifts for min wage... think I deserve a toy or two!) Pizza and whatnot sounds good to me. So, are you close to back on the road? What's left? And don't say peddle box... I pulled one of those in 15 minutes the other day. And what about using the 1/4-mile dyno? Any strips/vacant runways your way? BTW, my next toy after this trip will be MS... I swear!

My offer still stands. And, hey!, I am used to working with kindergarteners! "Will work for maps."

Thanks. I forgot to check the link when you first posted.

One of mine is kind of like that; looked around (sort of) for ones like it. Any idea where to get one like yours? Please don't say dealer, as I have problems getting parts from them when I know what VIN and have the part in hand.

Yup, I had to say it. Its been most of my 3AT problems... "When you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail." Doubt if your 3AT has a filter. Mine don't, just a screen. After I cooked my fluid, I pulled of the valve body and found a lot of black particulates all through the valving. Might also be pump pressure issues. Any difference hot or cold?

Is there a way to find out what they "stock"? Or do you need to contact the company and ask specifically? As mentioned in an earlier thread, I would be interested in stepping up to either 12mm or 13mm/0.5inch studs. A little better holding power, and perhaps more common size. $200 is a chunk of change, but like they say, "How fast do you want to go?"

IIRC, 12mm 1.25 pitch (at least on mine). Was thinking about putting a REAL drain on mine so that I could drain coolant into a pan instead of watering my underpans and burning my hands.

Governor OK, how about dirty valve body?

Anybody know an approximate price, like how much for the available short studs?

Pardon my denseness, but I wish to clarify: Is that 25 pairs? And is the CDN$80 per pair or per side? I am interested in hi-perf gaskets, just not sure whether steel or copper.

I don't know about the carb used on the EA82 (mine are MPFI), but the two EA81s (prob same) died from worn out throttle shaft bushings. The rest was fine, but leaked too much air.

Yep, little springs, check balls, and various widgets can come spewing out of a carb that you are taking apart, and usually when you least expect it. And, I like to stuff a rag into the carb barrels whenever they see daylight to prevent little objects from falling in and requiring major work to retrieve.

Are the aeroplane users using a gearbox??? Can't imagine a prop spinning much above 3K or 4K rpm.

Valve float is something that happens more than something you hear. Its just a (usually) gradual inability for the valves to follow the cam, so they just sort of stay partially open, more so as the speed goes up. All that you are likely to notice is a reduction in power as rpm increases, sort of like restrictive intake but more pronounced. Single valve springs are more prone to float because there is nothing to dampen their harmonics; dual and triple springs are often used in critical applications. Lots of engine manufacturers use valve springs whose rates (and harmonics) are selected to cause float before engine speed gets destructive.

The shimming of the pressure relief valve should have no effect on the oil pressure at idle when the oil is hot, and unlikely to have any effect on the pressure at higher engine speeds when the oil is hot. It is meant to keep from overpressuring when the oil is more viscous or when the pump is new and running very fast. What you need to be careful about is how high the pressure is after a cold start. Evil, nasty, and expensive things can happen if the oil pump tries to put out too much pressure. Cautions being said, I am glad that you got your pressure back to normal.

The turbo responds to gas flow through it. At idle, the engine doesn't produce enough gas flow to spin our turbo enough to produce significant flow. Without a load, opening the throttle has the same effect as increasing the idle speed: The engine speeds up until the internal drag balances against the power produced by the increased intake flow, a point that still does not significantly increase exhaust gas production, and also produces relatively high-vacuum in the intake once equilibrium has been reached. If the throttle is opened fully, the engine speeds up as much as it can until internal drag matches the power produced, either due to limited intake flow or valve float. It doesn't take significant power to maintain no-load valve float, and that probably won't produce enough exhaust gas flow to spin the turbo to positive boost. It DOES take power to accelerate the engine, which acts as a transient load that could get the turbo spinning. But once steady state rpm is reached the load drops off and so would the power and the resultant exhaust flow.

Are you planning on renting tow equipment (dolly, bar, etc)? Good luck. It is getting harder and harder to rent such equipment as the insurance companies are clamping down on rental companies. I cannot rent a tow dolly to tow a gutted soob behind my Aerostar. My minivan isn't big enough! Anyway, it is a bad idea to try to tow a vehicle and tow equipment that is not significantly lighter than your tow vehicle. It doesn't matter about brakes, its a physics thing: A heavier towed combo will just push around a lighter tow vehicle. The one with more mass will win. And just because you have done it and not died doesn't mean that it is safe.

A 4-cylinder at 11-12K rpm is awesome to hear!!! Might be fun to hear 9K out of a Subaru. So, who makes performance valve springs & light retainers for EA82s???

I do not know if your year/model used Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR); probably not. It would be a large pipe (1" diam approx.) with a large screw-in fitting into the manifold pipe. Your car may have something similar looking right at the exhaust port, but it is probably the for "air injection" (really uses exhaust suction, but same idea). If the welding doesn't work, might be able to find a used y-pipe from a board member or at a junk yard. Good Luck! Pat

There shouldn't be an exhaust gas leak there. It is either some variety of crack or bad gasket. Exhaust recirculation is done using a dedicated, sealed pipe to the intake manifold.

Don't know about the replacing part, but getting 2 codes form closely located parts sounds suspiciously like a connector issue. Have you checked the 2 against specs?

I regularly took my Honda to 12,500rpm. Still runs just fine. My Datsun sees 7000 pretty often. I ran my '58 Triumph at redline 5000rpm (pretty high for a diesel-tractor-based engine) in 4th for 3 hours straight. Subarus are short-stroke, short-crank-length engines. Can't see any reason why they wouldn't run nicely at 9000rpm if set up correctly. (Means pay attention to oil feed to crank, high-quality properly torqued rod and case bolts, and upgraded valve gear.) Very few production/consumer engines can be overreved to engine destruction. The valves will float long before the bottom end and rods are in danger of failure. Oh, I cheated a bit in regards to my Honda. It is a 400F murdercycle, with a stock 11,500rpm redline. Don't kill your engine, just 'cuz it needs some attention. Somebody (me ) would be willing to get it back into proper working order.

As far as I am concerned, if the gasket maker says retorque, then you should definitely retorque; if the engine manufacturer says retorque, then you should retorque. (BTW, there was another thread within the last week talking about this.) A little history lesson from one who lived through it for those graced with the youth to not have. Up until the 70's, IIRC, virtually all head gaskets specified that they needed to be retorqued after running the engine to temperature. Around the 70's, several gasket manufacturers came out with HGs that they claimed did not need to be retorqued. BTW, in my experience there were more failures amongst these that hadn't gotten retorqued than with those that had. Later, in the 80's(?), cars started coming out with stress-to-yield head bolts. With these you torqued them down to a specific setting, then turned them a certain angle more, which stretched the bolt past its limit of elasticity: The bolt couldn't stretch more without failing. This allowed a consistant clamping force without the bolt being able to "give" a little and release the force. It also made the headbolts use-once items. The reason for retorquing is pretty much for the same reason that to properly bore/hone a cylinder you need to use a torque-plate: Static/cold/unstressed conditions do not let the bolts "see" what operating conditions will be like. You can't tell during a retorque which ones really needed it (unless one was obviously loose, which indicates a problem with how the bolt was originally installed/torqued). You are just ensuring that the clamping force is as equal as you can get with bolts or studs that still can "give" a little. Retorquing is a good thing. PITA, but good. And just because an unretorqued HG didn't fail doesn't imply that it was done properly. Sort of like just because you didn't get caught while speeding doesn't mean that speeding is a good idea or legal. Happy retorquing! Pat

I don't know the answer right now, but (hopefully) within a couple of days I will have an EA81T 4WD 3AT to compare against my from-an-EA82T 4WD 3AT. Might be able to tell more about diff between these two. My belief is that they are the same.