NorthWet

Any guess how far the EGO sensor can go "bad" before the ECU will display codes? My wife's T-wagon looks rich, made me think EGO sensor, but my distracted mind said, "nah, it would be throwing codes." But it would have to be pretty serious and/or traumatic (broken wire) before it would light the CEL, right(ish)?

At the risk of asking the obvious... Have you checked to see if the distributor rotor is turning when you crank the engine? (As in: Is the timing belt broken and the disty is not turning...)

Thanks, Gary. I was about to say much the same thing bout humidity. With aircraft, the danger temperature was around the low 40'sF, where the air could actually hold a fair amount of humidty (32F/0C can't) but still reach freezing accelerating through the venturi.

I had a thread in the "Older" forum recently, and grossgary gave some info about the resistor... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24463&highlight=idiot+light You might check out what he said, or just ask him directly. (I have not as yet gone looking for my resisitor. )

Not sure about the idle; could be several things. What type of intake do you have: Carb, SPFI, MPFI/turbo? General thoughts involve vacuum leaks or sensor problems. If you REALLY think that this occurred after adding oil, drain off a bit. You can drop a quart or so and not be at risk if it is sitting still and level. Can't see how this could be a problem unless your dipstick isn't reading/being read properly. Regarding tranny synchros, I have no personal experience, but most people that have talked about this swear by Redline oil. Try a search on Redline, maybe with transmission (and variations of) and/or synchros.

Having the cap off effectively causes a vacuum leak. Air goes in the filler and gets sucked out of the PCV and into the intake. The PCV is supposed to handle blowby, not an unsealed crankcase.

WJM, my apologies while I hijack your thread for a moment, please. OK, first the problems. Propane (actually LPG) is under moderate pressure: 100-150 PSI at normal temperatures (in temperate climes). It is also very cold when it vaporizes. Both of these cause problems if you try to inject LPG. Most LPG systems use a gasifier to drop the pressure and convert the liquid to gas. But you lose two advantages: Pressure and charge cooling. And it somewhat lowers the amount of charge entering the cylinder. And and, it takes higher energy to ignite than gasoline; very difficult to start a cold engine on LPG. Positives: LPG has a fairly high resistance to detonation. It has a wider range of ignitable A/F ratios. It has tremendous charge-cooling capabilities. Given sufficient heat to absorb, it is a gas at STP, so you don't have liquid fuel diluting the oil and wetting the spark plug. There's also some interesting ideas that I want to explore that utilize the fact that it is under pressure. End of hijack. WJM, thanks for your indulgence. Pat

Sorry, same person. One thing with the centrifugal filters that I have dealt with is that they were a minor pain to clean, as they just flung the oil the side of the case. You had to take the case off and scrape/wipe the gunk out. With a dry-sump, you could do both the super-fine filter (do you know if one is available?) and the centrifugal using the pressure from the scavenge pump. Maybe also use a "sacrificial anode" to deal with acid build-up. Even if my ideas are useless or a pipe-dream, it serves as a bump for you.

OK, I can't help but pretend that I am helpfull... What kind of problems are you having? Does the starter spin the engine? If so, is that the engine doesn't "catch"? If so, are you getting spark at the plugs?

I believe that the name that I have heard it called is a "bottoming tap". Might try that if tool man looks at you funny. :-\ Grinding a high-quality tap can be a PITA. Probably ruin the hardness. Another option is to use a regular bolt and run it down the hole and let its threads "cut" the last bit. Works better on a bolt that has had its threads cut rather than rolled. Maybe make your own bottoming tap from a bolt that has had some waste slots cut into them. Just be sure to have a couple extra bolts in case you waste a couple.

And worth EVERY penny of it! Cheap at twice the price! Seriously, sounds like good advice. Sorry WJM, I just couldn't stop myself from joking about the 3 cents.

And greetings to you!!! My personal opinion is that an '88 GL-10 would make a fine first car... kind of why I'm making my kids learn to drive on similar ones (though Automatics ). Lots of options reasonably comfy and quiet. And the best featur of all: FREE!!! Let us know how things go with it. And remember that if you want some help hthat some more specs would be helpful... whether it has a carburetor or which type of fuel injection system (SPFI of MPFI) it has.... and is it a Turbo??? Welcome again, and good luck.

You ought to have a locksmith look at that cough! A $25 office visit might be able to clear it up. RE: the Hatch... no experience with latch mechanism for a Hatch, but most mechanisms like that have adjustments on the striker and on the latch catch. And "loose" is usually worse than misadjusted, so might check that, too.

Ditto! Ditto!!

I assume that this is the "normal" 2-barrel progressive-opening Weber? Have you checked to make sure that you are getting full throttle opening? I wouldn't think pressure would be so much of an issue as flow, since if the carb is not getting enough fuel the float needle would be unseated and almost any pressure would be enough. Have you done a hard run in the above 4600 rpm range, cut your ignition and rea the spark plugs? Lean or rich? Have you checked to see if mechanical/centrifugal advance is functioning properly and reaching full advance? Good luck!

Have you ever taken one of these bumpers apart? Unfortunately, I have, and there is not much there to mount to. There is a sheet metal box for the first inch or two, then it is just foam and plastic cover. In other words, it might be really tough to find a solid mount in this style of bumper. You might be able to take the cover off and fab up some mount bracing inside. Good luck, and be sure to post some pics of how you did it and what the finished product looks like.

My understanding is that the majority of engine wear occurs at startup, when oil pressure is zero and most of the oil has drained off of the friction/bearing surfaces. You can get amazing longevity out of a properly maintained engine that runs almost continuously. Engine oil's biggest enemy in SI engines is heat. It breaks down the long chain molecules into shorter molecules that have less lubricity. I think the bigger bang for the buck would be for an oil cooler and some pre-lube (and after-lube if turboed) system. I am NOT saying that your ideas do not have merit. The centrifugal filter might use the oil from the pressure bypass circuit. You could also go with a total oil system redesign and go dry sump... cooler oil, more options for filtration, bigger pain to design. BTW, my Honda 350 had centrifugal oil filtration, as did, IIRC, the Fiat 850. They depended TOTALLY on the centrifigual filtration.

Uh, Thanks!, I think... :-\ Don't know the numbers for the Delta cams in question, but "full race" profiles of old were known to reduce effective CR by 1.5-2, and "street and strip" by around 1.0

I have no knowledge regarding this yet... in fact, I can barely spell TCU.

Maybe only ruptured the vacuum modulator, sucking fluid into the intake. Easy enough to tell by pulling rubber vacuum hose of modulator and seeing if wet with ATF. Fixing this might allow you to limp awhile further until you are ready for that manual.

Once upon a time, places like radiator shops would repair holes in fuel tanks... assuming the tank was basically sound and the hole was not huge. Might want to check this out.

OH... and before you get too depressed, you might consider pulling the x-over pipe and looking at the port divider (where the two exhaust port runners converge) in the head to see if it shows an apparent crack. If not, you might get away with just a HG.

Well, my herd is due to changing needs (wife needing an Auto now, not sure if wagon or sedan...) and 2 kids learning to drive now and soon. Still have old, but need new/different. But it gives me an excuse to shop around, get deals, and get pick of the litter. But, unfortunately, the "runts" will have to go soon.

The first time I experienced an odd battery problem with our first soob, I learned that the battery cables, particularly ground, were kind of finicky. So I replaced all of the battery cables and grounds, cleaned the battery terminals all shiny, cleaned cable attachment points at starter and elsewhere, and NoCo Sealed the snot out of them. 2nd subaru had similar problems, did the same thing. Haven't had a spec of electrical problems since then with those two. Been like 8 years for Sub1...

Ok, I'll give you 70% credit for being more right than me... When moved to "start", my clock goes out but my idiot lights stay on. And after rereading orig post, he says when he moves key to "on"... maybe just misspeaking, may be accurate.