NorthWet

Hmmmm... how long for me to drive to Lakewood? ECU wouldn't bother me... I could sell my firstborn...

Leather. Leather diaphrams.

My experience is with older Subarus, but a bad/disconected (broken wire) sensor never sent things that south. I would imagine it would just run in an open-loop mode, maybe just slightly rich. I wouln't think that the variation allowed for O2 signal would be great emough for your problem. Where is the smell of gas? Back of car, engine compartment? Black smoke? If engine compartment smell and no/little smoking, I would go for a leak... fuel leak, that is. If exhaust-pipe smells and smoke, maybe leaking injector or the CTS or one of the other air mass/flow sensors used on the Legacy. my $.02

... And you know the back can be cranked up some, too, right?

My first (and second, and third) thought... what difference could it make? But it did. Working with rather old memories... and just looked at my Haynes, and it doen't match with my memory... hmmm... Well, it is either in another manual, or the voices in my head are confusing me. Again. PLEASE ignore what I said unless/until I find what I was sure that I remembered.

OOOPPPSSS! You wanted an EA81 and Spousal Unit has an EA82... Wish I weren't illiterate!

This won't help you, but maybe others. After surveying my yard, this is what I have (sans the one YOU want :-\): 85 Brown GL-10 - Gold over gold 87 Maroon GL - Grey over white 88 Silver GL-10 - Black over black 90 L Blue T-Loyale - Black over black

My Triumph (car) and Datsun SSS wagon were both dual-SU'd. My bro's A-H 3000 had 3 of those... we had a couple flow-synch tools (mental block! I can't remember the name of tool.) ... still got at least one. My Honda (bikes!) had multiples, with the 750 and the 400F having four... I had a quad-mercury-column flow tool for those... much better than the UniSyn... HEY! I remembered!!! After 30 years of futzing with carbs, I would go with either SPFI of MPFI... and prob play with the MegaSquirt for that. Cheap, and I get to play Diety! Speaking of futzing with carbs... use to have a pair of Weber 40DCOEs on my 510, but, amongst other foibles, the carb floats used to not. Funny thing about 510s: The top of the fuel tank is higher than the carbs. Maybe add a little slant from parking downhill... I changed my oil ALOT!!! If I had to do over, I would go EFI.

We talking RED (you know, "guy" red) or maroon? If it is real red, I can tell you after wife gets home with hers...

The hard(er?) part is that as you tighten the locknut the gap will try to change. Sometimes the locknut will turn the adjuster screw, sometimes it will just take up wear-slack, other times it will do both. On really old engines (talking non-subaru) each valve adjuster has its own personality. I only did my EA81 once... well twice, but the second time was because I made a mistake the first time. The manual SPECIFIES where the engine is supposed to be for EACH valve, and it really made a difference. the first time, I did it the way that I have always done it and the way (insert diety here) intended it to be... and several of the valves were WAY off. IMHO, follow the manual. If you can't find it in a manual, post so and I (or someone who knows more) will assist.

I'll strongly agree with the first part, and mildly disagree with the second. You probably will want the crossover, and the throttle linkage and synchronization are likely to be a pain. The SUs really weren't THAT bad... probably a better choice than most regular carbs for the British applications. And they did give us excuses to tinker...

Hijack warning... What are you using for control arm bushings? I tried to get some info some time back about bushings, but not much luck: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21587&highlight=bushings Any info you could provide would be appreciated! End hihack. Really waiting to hear how the TWE stuff works!

My '88 has 23 splines, and it looks like either 24 or 25mm from hipoint to hipoint on splines (Not sure how shafts are measured :-\ )

I've been looking for a couple of years for ANY manual for my '88 Justy. The only thing I've found is a Chilton's that mixes in info on the Justy amongst everything else made during that time frame. It (Chilton's... blech!) does have a list of codes for the '91 Justy. Find your codes and we will try to figure it out.

WAG: EA81 Flywheel?

More than that, A/C can be a lifesaver in that kind of heat. My family lives in Phoenix area, and I don't care what they say, if it is 120 outside it doesn't matter whether it is a "dry heat". Add ANY humidity and you're in trouble. But then, I am a heat-wimp, and even PacificNorthWet weather can get too hot for me. We DO hit over 100 degrees up here, and it isn't a "dry heat". (Doesn't compare to Texas and Deep South conditions, though.)

Another, more recent, thread posted this link to Subaru website that addressed towing. Guess its the final word... http://www.subaru.com/owners/care/carcaretips/middle.jsp?pageID=towing

Welcome!!! First the EA81/EA82 stuff refers to engine series. Your Loyale uses a version of the EA82. What makes you believe a ball-joint needs replacing? Possible, but haven't heard to much feedback on ball-joint failures, especially in such a young Subaru. But I am fairly new to this board, so listen to others... Subaru engines rarely burn oil like most other engines... they last nearly forever. (Engines with 150K+ have been opened up and still have original honing marks visible.) They leak badly from predictable places, and some have issues with losing oil through the PCV. Feel free to ask questions. Just be prepared for SOMEONE to suggest you search first. (But I will never be that someone. )

Just face your fear and move beyond it!!! On my 4WD stuff I wouldn't even think of trying to pull the tranny... again... did it once, that was enough! lol Well, twice... had to replace a tranny once. The engine is pretty easy to pull , gets easier each time you do it, so pretty soon your willing to pull it to do something that really doesn't require it. A/C compressor and P/S pump complicate it a little... have to leave the A/C hoses attached and just unbolt the compressor and move aside; P/S pump just undo the hard lines at the pump. If you don't have these, then simple stuff. Can't think of any gaskets needed except maybe exhaust (been awhile since I did anything except twagons...). Just make sure you unbolt torque converter from flexplate before you start separating engine/tranny. BTW: Why do you think you need to replace your t-con?

Hey! Is that a pickup/SUV meet going on in the next lot??? (WJM's pics) You got it ALL goin' on there! LOL

I have no problem with the newer subarus or the older ones either. Almost al are sisters and brothers following beat of a different drummer. I have developed a prejudice regarding WRXs, but that has to do with the kids that are buying them locally and treating them like Hondas that can actually go fast. Trend seems to be enough money to finance, but not enough brains/maturity to drive safely. I often wonder how many new WRXs will be around in 5 years, let alone 20-30 years. Just don't see it happening. Me, I am looking for a Brat for my son and a cheap Legacy for my wife. If a WRX appeared in my driveway I wouldn't send it away!!! It's all good.

Hey, I don't need it to produce any boost, just "sit there and take it". Too much work to change one out, even more work to drive down and see your sorry face . I can't believe that with all of these folk pushing the limit on their turbo's boost that they haven't an opinion on wastegate longevity. I guess they want it closed, not open! Oddcomp, PM'ing you

The owner is a faux sleeper... look at all the advertising stickers under the hood. He/she WANTS to be noticed, but just wants to wait for the mall parking lot.

Okay. You might need to modify your custom sub for the stock crossove/uppipe, but maybe not. Sounds like you have plenty of room for a customized pipe...

Found my thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21590 Turns out it is mostly about blue-sky ideas to control detonation. Still might be interesting.