NorthWet

I'm pretty sure it is a self-oxymoron... that is it is an indication of a problem reducing power. Amongst the maintenance records that I recieved with the car was "customer says Power light..." and they treat it as a problem. They just don't bother to say what it is or how they tried to pursue it. So far, the 4EAT is better driving than the 3AT. Plus it seems to have a nice OD for freeway cruising... can you say 2500rpm at 65mph? Plus it is FT4WD, has an extra gear, and HAS NO STINKIN' GUMMED UP GOVERNOR!!! But, it is still an automatic...

Porsches... Datsun? OOHHH!!! Man does not live by Subarus alone.

Unlikely. The "air locking" is getting an air bubble stuck in the engine, a problem with some subes, especiially the EJs from what I hear. Your problem sounds more fuel filter/pump or ignition (coil, probably) related. You need to give more info about car/engine and the problem for much better advice. (And there is much better advice than mine! )

There is a separate turbo icon and it lights when boosting. This idiot light is in the middle of the instrument cluster, alongside the AT's (vertical) "PRND32" and just above the "1 HOLD" light. Due to its location, I think it might be tranny/TCU related, but this is just guessing.

As title (kind of) says, I am trying to figure out what the POWER light on the dash of my (still new-to-me) '90 Loyale t-wagon with 4EAT means. The light flashes for a couple of seconds after startup, and sometimes under WOT or (near- ?) situations. The car has known engine issues. (And I know how to deal with them; just here in case they are relevant to POWER light.) The x-over is broken, so major pre-turbo exhaust leak. It will start to show boost about 3krpm, so it does get some boost. Also, the rest of exhasut system is leaky. There appears to be a vacuum leak to the interior uses... vent controls and possibly cruise control. I do not know yet if this leak is systemic or local to ventilation. Unfortunately, all I have at present is a Chilton's manual (hate 'em and always have!), and it doesn't say much about anything. Thanks in advance. Pat

If you find a source, I would dearly love to know. I love (engine!) studs. (Started typing that and it sounded bad...) There was a thread not too long ago that included talk of studs, and I was thinking going to 12mm or 13mm studs (or 1/2"). A VW/Porsche person suggested that double-butted studs (thinner shank than at threads) would be preferable. Anyway, keep us posted, please.

All I have got for those years is a Chilton's (BLEECHHH!!! ), but it has engine wiring diagrams for both. Let me know if this will help you. Pat

Ditto, ditto , yada, yada. With the A/C, DO NOT disconnect/depressurize the system. All you need to do is disconnect the electricals, and unbolt the compressor and/or the bracket (I unbolt bracket on mine) and gently move it aside into the fender area (battery box for me). Not hard, gets easier with repeated practice...

One of the OLD concerns was the same as for running unleaded gasoline: That the native-head-material valve-seats would wear quickly without the lubrication of the lead. If your advisor was thinking this, then his thought may be that a high-miles engine already had valve seat problems. This would not be an issue with hardened valve seats inserts.

Ummm... my '90 Loyale is new to me, so I haven't checked out the differences between it and the rest of my herd, but... How did you "have the codes pulled"? Did you try looking at the blinking LED under the steering column? (Might have to pull the trim panel imediately under the column to get a good look.) Again, I am assuming that the ECU is similar...

Gosh, thiose are pretty wheels. Stinky, thanks for posting pics!!! Is there even a general guess on the price? I would like to know if its worth mortgaging my house or not... oh, I rent

I have heard of using weld-els before, but where can you find them? (Either SS or reg steel.) I haven't been able to pull up the pics yet (silly browser prob, me thinks), but sounds good! *Edit - Just got the pictures... End Edit*

The JDM EA82T that I put in my wife's (now MiNE! ) T-Wagon about 5 years (?!- time flies!) ago has run fine since. I did strip it down to the long block as suggested (but left disty alone); the engine's wiring harness was cut instead of disconnected ( why? :-\ ) so it really wasn't too practical to just plug-and-play, but nothing looked radically different. Engine cost about $750, and was gotten from one of our local importers of which there are several within a few miles. Overall, I have had good experiences with JDM engines and trannies, with only one datsun tranny having any problem (weak synchro), and they exchanged that.

My old Triumph had an ebrake handle that locked only when you pushed the button in... bassackwards to "modern" handles. But a whole lot of fun doing bootleg turns!

Shouldn't be any connection between battery-to-starter power cables and fuse/fusible link. And agree about battery post connections... physical connection does not imply electrical connection. Yes, 3 connections to starter: Power, Ground, solenoid wire. And, again, check the voltage at the spade solenoid wire when key is turned to "start". Also, try running "hot" wire from battery post to starter's spade connector (out of gear, please!). And I have gotten DOA starters, so definitely don't rule that out.

Based just on buk-lernin' and not much practical try-it-and-see, I do not understand why any vehicle would "lose power" with large pipes for cat/muffler on back. The critical area would be from port to first major obstruction... cat or muffler. After that you could just dump to atmo for all the engine should care. Running large pipes should just be a compromise between stock size and open-air. Anybody have a good explanation why I am wrong? :-\ I also think that perhaps a smaller-than-port-size pipe might give ideal low-mid range torque. The port is significantly larger than either runner on its own and, although pulses aren't 180deg apart, should just need to handle flow from one cyl at a time. But then, I would try to keep the runner flows separate and do a tri-y pipe. Heck of complicated, though.

Cool! :cool:

There are the fusible links on the left(? as viewed from driver's seat) engine compartment on/near strut tower. Dumb question: Did you get the spade connector on the starter reconnected? Do you get voltage to this wire when the key is turned to start? Also, standard answer to check and recheck all grounds.

I haven't looked into this recently, but R12-to-R134a conversions have issues. The old lines do not hold R134a well, so constant leakage through the rubber should be expected. Have to flush out oil and use new oil, really should change receiver/dryer. R134a is not as "efficient" a refrigerant as R12, so older R12 components are too small to work well with R134a.

I would probably start by taking a quick look over your vacuum lines for obvious disconnects and breaks. Also, check out if the lines are getting hard/brittle or soft. PCV valve/lines might be a potential source, as would brake-booster line. You might also try spraying carb cleaner *carefully*, while the engine is running, around the throttle-body base and where the intake manifold attaches to the heads. If the engine speed changes, then you probably have a leak nearby. The vaccum leak could also be under the dash where the line comes in to service the vent controls (and something else, but what I forget). Re: 4WD... on my PB 5speed, if I "play" with the button (its sitting right on top, and it is hard for me to not run my thumb over it!) I hear a dull click through my stereo as the electrical connections start to "make". Do you hear anything like this? Point is, it might also be electrical and coincidental to the vent problems. And, DUH! do the simple inexpensive stuff first. Mark-I I-Ball exam of lines, carb cleaner, check fuses.

Yeah, I figured. BTW, NICE image!

RavenTBK, good points about max rating vs. reality. Nothing likes running at max rating for long, so it makes sens to have something that is "loafing" under everyday situations. Things will run at 60-70% all aday long. Sandman, just one word: Fusible links.

So, uhhh... what are you using for vapor return? My only thought/concern about using the return line (other than vapor issue) is if it has the strength to hold up to pressure. I know it shouldn't experience anything significant, but if something gets pinched a burst return line might be .... hmmm ... embarassing?

Welcome! This is a great place for information, as I have found out over the last couple of months. Just be ready for SOMEONE to tell you to try SEARCH first. OK... first, it would help to know something about your car. The more knowledgeable here probably know based on your year, but I don't. I think that the only induction option for your year was SPFI (single-point FI), but don't want to assume. Is your transmission manual or automatic, how many speeds, and how do you engage 4WD mode? (I assume it is a pushbutton 4WD.) Does the 4WD indicator on the dash come on? First guess is that you have a vacuum leak. The ventilation controls are run off of vacuum, as is the actuator for the 4WD on bushbuttons. A substantial vac leak could also explain the gas mileage problem. Did all of this happen at once? Like a common problem caused all of this? If so, I would think an intake gasket leak: Would cause vac leak, mess up the mixture, and since coolant passes through the gasket to warm the intake, could be the source of your leak.

In my experience, It will run with the belt a tooth or so off. The engine will actually start and run with the non-disty-side belt broken... just not very well. And the oil "trick" works a whole lot better on an upright-cylindered engine. A little harder to be sure the oil spread to the top side of rings on our boxers. Also, might just as easily help to seal the valves... The "no particular order" on compression makes one thing difficult for me to tell: Are the extra low cylinders on same side? (BTW, does the compression gauge show "normal" pressures on some other engine?) Anyway, I would seriously look at t-belt timing. Free Advice Day!!!