NorthWet

Can't tell you absolutely, but I think you are SOL with the carb dist. The MPFI/turbo dist has a crank angle sensor that tells the ECU when to pulse, and the carb dist doesn't have this sensor.

11:1 as statically measured, or effective? (Many race engines can run higher CR because their valve overlap reduces the effective CR... they actually NEED a higher static CR.) Also, I would think that if you really want to control detonation you are going to need some engine management. EFI can hold the mixtures a lot tighter than a carb, and the stock disty's timing can wander all over the place (not so much if less worn than mine! ). Or just rev the snot out of it and forget about detonation. Sounds like fun. I once rode in a 750lb (empty) car with 120+hp engine on an auto-x course. WOW!!!

"..FOOD idea"??? Sorry, couldn't help, as my lunch is ready... BTW, your car came with a snorkel. It is what everybody tries to bypass with cones and airbox cutting. Don't know how effective, and many feel it is too restrictive (but doesn't sound as restrictive as current implementation of the spare tire snorkel.

Sounds unlikely to be a starter interlock problem. He says that dash electricals work before turnign key to START, and then "die" when he attempts to START.

Disclaimer: Not an expert, but I am good at regurgitating information. The carb short block can work, according to reports. It lacks a top of block breather that "T" has, and it is higher compression... mixed bag there. The heads are different and will not fit the turbo manifolds. Ditto with everything except MPFI heads, and they may have troubles with not having proper coolant/oil fittings for turbo. So, anything other than an MPFI block won't do you much good if your heads are fried. And the MPFI might still be unworkable. How much is "too much" to spend? A JDM can be had for $700-800 last time I priced (awhile ago...), JY engines can be had for around $100. There is one near me where the car died due to crash RF corner... pretty sure engine is still OK (but yard man is giving me troubles :-\ ). There is a company in Auburn that I have been told about that sells reman heads for what sounds like a fair price... less than I was quoted for a valve job alone, much less than valve and leak test. Before you part the car, one of us may buy it. Though you could get more money if you part it than if you sell it to cheapskates like me.

I ain't 'fraid of no transmission! Records show replacement of one of the tranny solenoids... can't remember offhand if it was the duty a or b. Thanks for all of the info! Pat

What type of automatic? Was it the 4speed? This transmission has an electronic control unit, the TCU, and if it wasn't removed it probably still thinks that its transmission is there and is freaking over the sensor inputs. *edit - Shouldn't cause hesitation. I believe the TCU is not connected with ECU function. - end edit *

I'm not an expert, and I don't play one on TV. Too new here to tell you what's what, but pretty sure the Loyale is considered Older Generation. It is essentially the same as earlier pre-Loyale named EA82s. I believe that the Loyale name was applied to differentiate them from the Legacy and beyond. We are talking about a Loyale, right? Your sig mentions EJ22s.

Ethyl alcohol = Ethanol Methyl alcohol = Methanol Pardon my ignorance of the vernacular, but what is nos? My best guess is nitrous oxide, but if that is it than it is not really a good analogy. Propane in a diesel just allows utilization of most/all of the available oxygen, instead of reducing and releasing heat and free oxygen like nitrous oxide. Propane has a lot to offer a spark ignition engine.

Roundeye, AWESOME pics!!! Good quality, great lighting.

Do you mean a sphygmomanometer? A hemostat is usually a small forcep-like clamp... None of my turbos go positive pressure until about 2k. :-\

How would you like the scans? Emailed to you or posted some way? *edit - Not that it is likely to matter, but what was the original intake-type? - end edit* (The Chilton's came with the car, and my Haynes doesn't have any wiring diagrams for EA82-era wagons. FSMs are near-future acquisitions.)

AARRRGGHHH!!! I am not sure if I even want to know how you found out this info... Thanks for the response... hope your Typer's Cramp gets better! I am assuming that the flashing of the light at startup (the only noticeable time it has flashed) is a problem indication? I will check this out soon. Regards, Pat

Starting to sound like a mantra: Check the connections: Batt-cable to batt, batt-cable to starter, batt-cable to ground (starter). Various grounds. Also, orig positive battery cable had a bolt-and-nut to connect power wires to cable... usually under the positive cable's protective "hood"; if the connection is bad here, all sorts of stuff could be a problem.

AACCCKKK!!!! WAIT!!!! Not a good idea to attach residential water supply to force water through a cooling system. RWS has pressures from 30-100 PSI, and cooling system is designed for only about 15psi. Okay to use flow, and carefully regulated pressure, but don't force it. These subes do not have a water control valve, but use a flap that controls the amount of heated air. If your TEMP cable doesn't move, I would suspect the cable and/or its moving of the flap. *edit - Like what roundeye said while I was typing this. - end edit*

My new-to-me '90 Loyale has THREE of those stickers. Haven't read them all, just the one about letting the car idle for a minute before engine shutdown. I'm not much into warning placards, especially when they are pretty much common sense ("Don't put scalding hot coffee between your legs while driving.") I also do not like sticky stuff on my interior trim. Their time is limited, so if you need a pic, ask soon...

Evening BUMP

No FSM, but a Chilton's (we need a Mr. Yuk! emoticon!) and scanner and lots of practice using it.

Congrats! And do you need a home for that 4EAT? It is less stupid then the 3AT...

Last first: The crankshaft pulley bolt on my '88 is normal RH thread... can't believe that they would change it. What kind of help with alignment? BTW, it was pretty easy when I did mine (but it was on an engine stand. )

... and when do your reach max boost?

It doesn't say what type of alcohol it uses, and where you would get it. Ethanol is fairly common, but it doesn't have much of an octane advantage, ansd is mildly antagonistic towards rubbers and plastics. Methanol has the higher octane rating (IIRC), but destroys nearly any plastic or rubber it contacts. Plus I seem to remember issues with corroding aluminum. I still think that it would be neater to go with liquid propane: High Octane rating (110 IIRC), low corrosivity, superior charge cooling, and general availability. Set up a system to use a camp-stove bottle, and bob's your uncle. Just keep it safe from excess heat and crushing...

Can I get an "Amen!" Plus just plain calibration might be off. The guage could easily be reading 6 even if the real value is 7... or 5. 15% diff between numbers in that range, small distance on gauge.

So... concensus of 2 1/2 people is that the blinking light is a TCU signal? Is there a known way of getting the TCU to give up its info... like an LED ala ECU's???

Not an EA81T owner... How many miles does the engine/turbo have on the clock? Could they just be tired? When (RPM and throttle opening) are you first getting to 6psi? Otherwise, my bets go on the wastegate... not an accurate device to begin with, normal variations and/or wear and tear on the spring, etc., could do this. Or too much post-turbo restriction (plugged cats or crushed exhaust pipe).