NorthWet

For me, YES, it is worth fixing. But then, I do all of my own wrenching. And have learned some ways to get economical parts. Your kind of in a spot as it is your sole car... If the center diff is the problem and is too expensive to repair, you could get a used tranny. I was lucky enough to pick up a 4-speed FT4WD (4EAT) tranny for $75. A JDM (Japanese used import) tranny might be had for $400-500 (not sure). There are also ways to make the car FWD to lengthen the time you have to decide to repair or sell. (Remove one or both rear axleshafts, for instance) I just got my '90 Loyale, and yes, I noticed that it lacks stuff that my other Subarus have. The Loyale is basically the same car, just much more plain. I was thinking about this recently, and I think that they dressed-down the Loyales so that they were the budget vehicle compared to the new Legacy. But I have the parts to upgrade mine, thanks to a parts car. Mine has the turbo (rare-ish in Loyales) and map lights, but no remote adjust mirrors. Cheap armrests, no split-back rear seat. Just seems cheaply optioned.

No starter switch, just the ignition switch, when you turn the key to Start. The center diff is integral with the tranny. Can't remember what has been said about the AT's center diff on FT4WD trannies, but I think that it uses an electro/hydraulic actuated clutch-pack. The clutch pack and/or actuator sometimes have problems that require repair (not cheap, from what I have heard). You can try searching on "binding" or maybe "Duty Solenoid C" (I think these are both applicable). Good luck.

Altitude compensation of the mixture is not the problem... the problem at 7000 ft is lack of air. (This lack of oxygen might explain some of the behavior of some people. ) The turbo does a fine job of compensating for the thinner air. Plus is darn fun when the boost comes in at sea-level.

I went through this on my Datsun a couple of decades ago... Oh, sorry, drifted off for a moment. I installed a 65A GM external-VR alt (instead of the orig 35-ishA), and they worked just fine with stock VR. However, the alternators tended to destroy their front bearings, even to the point of the front-plate (bearing carrier, mount ears) ovaling around the bearing. Moral: Larger case does not necessarily equate to longer life. But I would like a GM alt on my sube... And wiring issues should be handled by running some heavier power wire.

The starter: I do not think that your starting problem is the starter. Your running power to the starter's solenoid wiring (via spade connector) shows that the starter is working much as it should. The wiring diagram I have shows nothing but connectors (no relays, solenoids, etc) between ignition switch and starter spade terminal. Sounds like connector issues, maybe starter switch. The instrument panel problem also sounds like connector/power/ground issues. I'll let others advise you about the FT4WD issues, but it sounds like center diff binding. And it was my belief that the FWD-fuse was normally NOT in its holder, and is placed into the holder to put the car in FWD mode. Congrats on the baby!

I wasn't amazed so much at the price for labor as the part itself. Right after HS, I worked in a radiator/AC shop as the grunt/gopher. I was the one that had to R&R ALL of the heater cores. I once spent 8 hours to diagnose/fix a non-working heater blower... turned out to be a pencil that fell down the defroster vent and jammed the squirrel cage. And it was written-off as a warranty repair after a radiator replacement!!! Anyway, heater jobs are often the pits. $200-300 for labor is easy to believe. Its $577 bucks for a $40-60 heater core that's hard to swallow.

Well, singletrack's post was enlightening You didn't mention whether your GL was carbureted, SPFI or MPFI. Not sure it matters, but... The Coolant Thermo Sensor (CTS, though Chilton calls it ECT) is a separate sensor from the temp-gauge sender (which, BTW, is on the thermostat housing). The CTS is used to tell the Engine Control Unit (ECU) info on coolant temp so it can adjust the mixture. Its placement (probably) differs between different induction systems. Seems to be a common problem that either the sensor fails or the connector makes poor contact.

OUCH!!! I am thinking about adapting "standard" dual lights for my GLs. Though I think somewhere I heard that DLs came standard with standard lights?! The duals (total, not quads) would give me room for air inlet scoop and cooler inlet.

Well, these maint. records make me wonder about that slogan "Inexpensive, and built to stay that way." One service was to replace an AT solenoid (197.18) and the MAF (711.44 ), total was $1556.19 :eek: Another bill about 2 months later, was for an engine reseal, t-belts, and a radiator... total $2165.32 :eek: So, just in these 2 invoices and 2 months time, PO spent $3722.51 TOTAL EEEKKK!!! Rough estimate, the PO spent somewhere around $6-8k in repair/maint during last 4 years... more than the car originally cost her.

FYI: I just ran across the computer head and wiring harness that my fuel flow sensor was connected to.

More specifically, the computer controls "leaning out" the fuel mixture for emissions. Fail-safe...

I don't generally like spreading bad reputation, especially since I don't know all of the facts. But beware if you are in Tacoma and go to an indi shop... An estimate a couple months later showed the heater core a little cheaper... but then again it had two items listed for the heater core, and their total was pretty much the same as the first quote... Gee, you even make bank on your opinions! Seriously, anyone who really knows mechanical work understands that quality parts and attention to detail doesn't come cheap. Cheap comes cheap. (And I ought to know!!!) Your reputation here speaks for itself. 'Nuf said.

As a person that started out in Datsuns (and still have my first love), I also look at stuff for my 510. One of the things I found a couple of years ago was a site that has a page on putting Subaru LSDs under Datsuns. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ (It uses frames, so you have to navigate to the Technical Dept., Drivetrain section.) On this page they also discuss other options, and one of the options is the Phantom Grip. This site, however, did not have anything complimentary to say about the Phantom Grip. In fact, they warned against it as being ultimately destructive to the differential. Now, I do not know diddly about the Phantom Grip yet, but it might be nice to hear what somebody who does know says about the description and criticizms. This page might also give some ideas for other sources of LSD. And, no, my 510 does not have a soob LSD under it, but not for any moral reason, just hadn't known before this article, and haven't looked since. It does have an r180...

Not totally, as the choke plate being forced open probably does not effect the fast idle linkage... the choke mechanism would move both, both the plate has to be able to open independently if airflow increases. So, mixture improves, but fast idle cam still holding throttle open. VVRROOMM!!!

So, what parts have you folks paid way too much for? A couple of weeks ago I picked up a '90 Loyale, and I just got the service records from previous owner, including work estimates. Made for interesting reading... Does $219.42 sound good for an oil pump? How about $557.66 for a heater core? Just a couple of the interesting items in the doc. And oh, those prices were not including labor, which was an additional $208 and $273, respectively. Can anybody top these?

OK... I am tired and thinking produces a cottony feeling and some pain. But... ...unless I read your post wrong you already know that your choke is sticking partially/fully closed. Kind of explains the gas usage, high idle, stuff like that. So, how about dealing with the choke problem? If you are reading low voltage to the choke, what happens if you run battery voltage to it and bypass its wiring? Haven't checked the wiring diagram, but might be a relay or some bad connection along the line causing you grief. Or just prop the choke plate open for a bit and see how it runs. Discount today, only $0.01

I would still like the tranny, but does that exclude your experimenting?

You need somebody tomorrow to stand around and tell you better ways that you could have done something? Depending on weather (weather or not I feel like it! ) I could lend a hand. Maybe get some more swag??? Do you need some blades for my recip saw, or are you beyond the mayhem?

I went with NAPA, and have really used the Lifetime Warranty. Had a string of bad remans... Got good at changing axles, though. Once they also gave me an axle that had its threads cut-down and a 32mm nut used. PITA, ended up taking it back and exchanging.

Last question first: All changes from stock are a compromise, so yes, there are negative effects to raising the rear. But how negative is a personal thing. Clocking refers to being able to position the suspension arms to a different position on the torsion bar (or the t-bar to its center mount. I forget) ... IIRC the bar is splined somewheres, either at the ends or the middle. So you can get larger effects of lift or lowereing then the adjuster bolt alone could give you.

On the Devil's Advocate side, major rust isn't a fact of life near me. We don't salt our roads, and we get Nature's Car Wash enough to keep rust to a minimum. Rust might concern me more that it would you. Moss... well, that is a different story. Constant battle for me.

"The Cobbler's children go barefoot." I know what that is like!

Being on the wrong side of the country may slant my opinion on this item, but it struck me the most while reading. For me, this is a deal killer. I also have empathy for what you are feeling. I bought a car SPECIFICALLY for parts, and am having trouble stripping it. ("It only needs this... and that... and...") In the end, it would cost far more than its market value, and it has parts to keep 3-4 cars in my stable running. Good luck with your decision.

LUCK! Clutch jobs are easy enough, as long as the parts man gives you the right parts and the flywheel machinist doesn't fall asleep! BTW, is this the '82 Brat that you mentioned in my thread?