NorthWet

Yeah, but is it climate controlled??? or do you just hose the floor in winter and go skating??? Barracuda, I tried what you suggested (again, but this time with flashlight ). No obvious signs of exhaust, no carboning, no smoke, just noise. Maybe tomorrow I will try some oil/atf in the intake to use as a smoke marker. But I am pretty sure it is the x-over that is cracked. Just really thrown by things going quiet. Thanks all!

Yeah, I've got a x-over pipe broken at the flange that I picked up from Austin (I requested a broken one! and he came through.) so I have seen the common break. Its raining here and they are talking snow in the hills. Not having a garage is lame. (My wife is at visiting her brother at his new house: Two 3-car garages, and concrete apron for up to 12 more...) Mud and crushed rock for me.

So did yours go quiet, too? I know the Supertrapp on my Honda 400F is quieter with throttle than at idle... Same thing, lots of flow trying to get through thin gaps??? Thanks for the feedback!!!

Later model GL-10s had them; both my '85 and '87 EA82t-wagons have them. Don't have any knowledge beyond. Sorry.

FWIW, I have a connection problem at my CTS. Going down the road the connection (or defective CTS? been replaced...) goes wonky for a second and the car shudders and the CEL blinks on and off. Real pain. Almost makes me want to cutoff CTS connector and rewire it. Almost...

Calm, please. No insult intended. I am too asocial to bother insulting people who deserve it, let alone someone who goes above and beyond to help others. You are amongst the people on USMB that I "listen" to carefully. Nothing but respect. I have never heard of timeserts, so I have no knowledge or opinion about them. Perhaps they are not marketed on the US west coast? I don't know. But I would like to learn about them.

Speaking of power to compress air, a few months ago a came across an article on Mercedes-Benz website talking about the power needed to drive the Kompressor on their sports model... can't remember which one right now. Anyway, just short of redline it was drawing 45+ (think 47) HP to drive the supercharger!!! Wonder why turbochargers are popular? Can you imagine if we took 20-25HP off of the crank to supercharge our engines? Admittedly, it costs us some power directly back-pressure, but we get some back by other tuning and exhaust silencing compromises. Of course, both super- and turbo- charging loses evergy efficiency but ... tough! Pedal to the metal!!! On a related subject, back in the '60s people argued that intake scoops were pointless as the amount of air drag created was more than any possible power increase. Moral: Don't rely too much on what people say. (But, although thread "item" is no longer viewable, when I saw something like it I assumed it was an enrichening device... for the seller.)

Just picked up a '90 Loyale Turbo (FT4WD 4AET), 218k+miles, discovered an odd problem. On first startup, lots of exaust noise... sounds like pre-turbo just based on sound. I figure probably cracked x-over pipe flange. Owner says that it has problem on hills, no power. OK, still sounds like x-over. Get it our on the road, a little weak accelerating, loud exhaust, turbo light comes on late in rpm range 3000-ish. Then, climbing up freeway onramp, around 45 mph WOT the car goes QUIET (almost zero exhaust noise). And power falls flat; not power-cut or misfire, just reatively steady and smooth low-power, with little response from throttle. If terrain allowed, it would go easily to 80mph (I was tired and wasn't paying much attention to throttle being nearly floored following cresting hills). Drove this way for 200 miles, and got best gas mielage I have ever gotten out of a soob (guestimate around 34-36MPG). Too tired, injured (freak scissors accident, can't keep my thumb from bleeding after 2 days :-\), lazy and rainy to start tearing into it today, but no visible telltales from veiwing top of turbo area. Any thougths? Seized turbo? Plugged cat/exhaust? Just a broken x-over? It going quiet (well, -er) throws me.

Looks like it was meant to have old turbo (like on the corvair/Olds, I think).

My 2 cents is that it is primarily for spray pattern. Mess with it and atomization will be affected. A couple of secondary possible purposes would be: 1)for tuning of spray pattern (i.e. - change angle of divergence and/or depth of passage), or 2)ease of machining... pintle and seat machining separate from orifice/atomizer, or 3)some protection for projecting pintle.

How about specialty tools? Like the flywheel stopper that manuals say to use in timing hole to secure flywheel? I think that you could sell a passel (Def: short s***-load) of those. And maybe a nice, simple cam-sprocket holder, the one recommended for torqueing the sprocket while tensioning the t-belts. (I built my own... but I didn't notice torque-spec was in INCH-lbs and not FOOT-lbs. I could tighten the crankshaft pulley with mine. ) I'm cheap... er, frugal, but like proper tools. And how about items that are recommended here as "only get OEM" like t-stats? I love our Subarus, but dealing with my local dealer for parts is worse than going to the dentist, and usually less satisfying.

Similar advice as for air filters... "You don't have to use air filters if your plane never lands or your boat never comes in to port." Street only driving, willing to change belts on the fly if needed? I might run without covers for the "convenience". Any chance of getting debris and fluids into the belt area, prob should use protection. Ka'ching!!! Sale $.02

I will second that as an epoxy to use. I am confused... If his came from almost anyone else I would call BS!! How do you figure that you never could/should remove the fastener? I do it all of the time. Am I doing some ignorant russian roulette? Truly an honest Q, not a challenge...

Over on this side of the Pacific, I would probably use a thread insert (aka Helicoil) to fix your problem. Pretty much a permanent fix. Can be pretty pricey for just doing one hole, as you have to pay for the tap and insert tool (been awhile but guess $20USD). Other people have done epoxy fixes, but they must be smarter or braver than I am. I am sure I would just bollux it up.

I have autos becaus I have wife and kids. I learned to drive on a non-sychro first-gear tranny, and find clutches usually unneeded. I prefer a manual over the ATs... That being said, my '85 never ran right, and is still getting changed (actually, other things needed fixing on it and slowed down completion). Our '87 came with blown vacuum modulator, 2+-qts low on fluid (remainder pretty toasted), and gummed governor. Once I got it straightened out the tranny seems to work ok. The AT in the turbo has enough power, at least around town. I am unfamiliar with the power of non-turbos, would would think that they would be marginal with an AT. But, then, I did drive early '70s toyaotas with AT...

Uummm... nominal voltage for the battery is REALLY 13.2 volts, with closer to 14-14.5 volts under charge. If you are ssiing it sag below 12, then there is a problem. Too tired to offer more constructive ideas... sorry. Pat

Well... How much do you know or have you heard/read about the Subaru ATs? Many condsider the ATs to be the incomprehesible weak-link in an otherwise solid bit of engineering. What makes you think that the tranny is bad? What so you consider "slipping"? How many miles on tranny? The 3-speed AT transaxle (aka - 3AT) has a couple weak spots. Number one is that it doesn't like being overheated (duh!); doing so causes fluid breakdown and all sorts of gremlins. Number 2, and VERY common, is problems with its "governor", a mechano-hydraulic device on the side of the front final drive (above stub axles) that tells the tranny how fast you are going so it knows when to shift. This thing is an ingenious design that needs frequent maintenance as it ages. It is driven off or the pinion shaft, and its driven gear tends to get stripped (aka - "apple-cored"). If this happens then upshifting will be erratic and wil eventually just stop happening. It also has sliding valve parts that move against springs as the valve rotates. These sliding parts get gummed up (overheated/dirty fluid) and also develop burrs on their edges that need to be removed. Descriptions for this procedure are available, or ask and we will get them for you. The third common thing is a blown vacuum modulator, uses engine vacuum to tell tranny how much load the enigne has. The diaphram ruptures and tranny fluid gets sucked into the intake and creates white smoke. I would suggest you check out these probs before you condemn your tranny. I just replaced a 3AT (with a JDM unit) in my '85, and it was a bear... heavy, and no tranny lift. Most here would tell you to do a 5-speed Manual conversion. Not a lot of sympathy for automatics. Good luck!

I've found the best price for local purchase to be at a mom-and-pop... er, well, pop anyway, radiator shop. Comes all boxed from Modine for $160-ish; NAPA wants $15-20 more for same unit. I get all my 'puter stuff online, but still leary about fragile things like radiators and fine crystal. Regardless, spend the buck$ and get a good 2-row... did I forget to say COPPER?!?! Copper, copper, copper. Aluminum does not belong in heat exchangers. Gee, does my bias show?

Try this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23166 It is too a thread titled "VIN code help", where the guy really was looking for engine designators. Short story: the engine-type is cast in big letters on top of block near RH head (driver's view).

I'd be interestede, but right now doesn't count for much... not until I start earning more than Indentured Servant wages. Tangent: So what IS the diff between an EA82 "Leone" and the Loyales. To my untrained eye, it seems that SOA just started calling them Loyales when the Legacy came out. Return from Tangent. Anyway, go for it! Maybe we in the community can add some items for you to carry. Though shipping stuff from your side to our side might chew up any price advantage. Then we would have to shop with our hearts instead of our wallets.

While I am truly bummed, it could be worse since I hadn't yet dragged it back to my lair and marked it as "mine". I doubt that it was PO, as LL said that she went through legal procedure to contact PO. LL said that she had spoken to this lady before car removal and had an answering machine message post-removal. LL got what she wanted, car gone from her yard. Don't think she will bother with much else. LL also said that "dream-swiper" just wanted a cheap running car. I offered up my services (for LL to pass on to "DS") in case DS finds that she is in over her head and really does want a runner. But, yeah, I will keep my eyes open for it showing up in the paper. I just hope that it doesn't end up at the bone yard. The ones here are a little too pricey to get the parts I want.

The subject was master cylinders... and within that VERY narrow subject what I said was accurate. Now I DID have to replace the hill-holder valve... Besides, if the old stuff never leaked, what would we do with our time??? lol

What WJM said. NOT normal. New stuff shouldn't leak... my OLD stuff doesn't leak.

Oh... You may be going about this the hard way. Tail wagging the dog. Subaru casts engine models into their blocks. On the 1800 (not sure about 1600, but should be same), find the distributor, look a little to the passenger side, and on the top of the block near where head attaches it should say in aprox inch-high letters "EA81" if it is 1800, and (I assume) "EA71" if it is 1600.

I guess that beats mine: "Who the gods would make humble, they first make proud." Or at least it is much more relevant!!! How about... Tow first, ask questions later???