NorthWet

EIGHT inches?! Isn't that a little THICK? Bet it makes it easier to do nose-stands!

Oh? My '85 has a block heater (threaded into drain on bottom of block) and I am pretty sure that it has a JDM in it (pre-me, but done by in-laws).

When I first spoke with landlady she was telling me the steps that whe had already completed towards the title. Sounds like there wasn't much left. Let's see... shock, denial, anger, grief.. and finally acceptance? Is that the proper 5 steps???

Gave my word to the landlady that I wouldn't mess with it until we got together for paperwork, and she was unavailable until this morning. Wife said I should have grabbed it last night, too. Bummer is that I didn't even have to tow it.

Well, fate has dealt me a cruel blow... During the night, someone else came and towed the car away and left a message with the landlady that she would come back for the paperwork! --> --> --> Landlady seems too mild to argue, so it looks like my treasure is someone else's problem. The only glimmer of hope is that the female who took it said that she was desperate for a running car. I suggested to the landlady that she tell the car-swiper that I can probably find her a more suitable car. Not holding my breath. Majorly BUMMED this morning. Pat-hetic

I bet you can help paint it, but it'll cost ya... maybe a good shooter or a dead cat. Hey Scoobywagon... which portion of podunk do live in. Lots of P.Nowhere 'round here! I actually have another 1/2 acre to store them on, but my wife thinks of it as "yard"! Go figure. lol

Most of the bolts of that size that I have dealt with were 8-10FtLbs. Still, clean bolt in clean bolt-hole I would have expected the Al threads to strip first. And if you were using a click-stop torque wrench, I haven't found one that will reliably work under about 15 ftlbs. I have a decent 1/4" drive that you can't really feel any "click" on at that low of a setting. Beam-style in a 1/4" drive would proba be better. IMO.

Hhhmmm... maybe I will just pull the turbo and weld the flange back on the pipe in situ... How's THAT for lazy??? (Gotta remember not to fry the electronics...)

Take a look at the compressor next time you turn on the a/c. If it stays on for a couple seconds and then disengages, then the pulse-counter could be the fault. If it stays on for longer than a couple seconds it is prog something else. If it works ok on cool days but not on hot, I would suspect the overtemp/overpressure switch. It could either be a funky switch or a serious system condition... Been awhile since I did A/C for a living, but my guess is either under- or over-charged with refrigerant. An A/C place might be able to give you advice for free... just don't believe the first one you go to unless you know you can trust them. :-\ Do remember that the compressor normally cycles on/off but shill should blow cold. And, oh... with the compressor on for a few seconds check the siteglass for bubbles. Some are OK/normal, froth is not.

Thanks. Never had to do something as piddly as replace the crossover. Gotten to the point where anything can be solved by pulling the engine... almost quicker then thinking of an alternative.

How long has this been doing this? Did it work fine before and just start having this problem? Did you just make a change, like get a recharge? My vote goes for either the overtemp/pressure switch usually on the receiver/dryer (sightglass cylinder) or the pulse-counter on the compressor (which detects whether the compressor is turning so a siezed compressor doen't kill your drivebelt).

GOOD NEWS!!! You sheared the bolt putting it IN, not taking it OUT. The bolt isn't corroded in place, just doesn't have a head on it. So, do as WJM says, and see if some of the bolt is sticking out after you have oulled the pump body back off. If it is, then you are in fat city! If not, then all you need is something that will get a reasonable amount of traction in REVERSE-TWIST. My recommendation is to have a small set of reverse twist drill bits hanging around. Start drilling at the bolt, and as soon as it gets its first "grab" it will start to back out. Otherwise, use a normal drill bit and a reverse twist easy-out. Relax!!! This should be pretty easy as opposed to a corroded broken bolt.

Remanufactured axles sometimes have cut-down and rethreaded ends. I got one that was 32mm, and they didn't supply new washer. IMO if you get a cut-down TAKE IT BACK!!!

Sorry!!! Forgot to say it is an '88. What I can see of the diff tag looks like your avatar, not like any of our current tags. The car is going to take a lot pf cleaning, and I will need to pull the engine to deal with the broken crossover pipe. Just wish I could think of a definitive way to tell if that is a rod-knock before I do alot of maintenance work. Guess I just need to knuckle-down, R&R the engine for the pipe, and see what it sounds like, then decide whether the engine is sound enough for new belts and reseal. Only prob is the wet season is coming and no garage... Happy!!! Happy!!!

Well, I have 8 soobs at my house at the moment, this free puppy coming tomorrow, and another Sat or Sun... Let's see... 8... 9... 10! So WHO's the subaholic NOW??? Huh!? And my wife has been encouraging me. What a MISTAKE!!! Seriously, looks like I will have to find new homes for some of the lesser subies: An '82 wagon with parts car, an '85 gl-10 auto twagon, and an '88 Justy.

Gee, do you think the diff is SPECIAL??? Frankly, I am not sure. Yet. I tried to check but tall (wet) grass, my barrel-chested (ok, -bellied) body, and lack of a flashlight limited what I could see. And I've never SEEN an LSD. But the tag looks about right... w00t! The tranny is an s/r 5MT, but does have diff-lock. The engine is somewhat questionable, but I did get it started (after sitting 2-3 years) and found the cross-over/uppipe is broken (prob at T-flange). Also sounds like a knock, but it may be a combo of exhaust and HLAs. Fingers crossed. Gotta wait until tomorrow to fetch it, but at least now I have a chance of driving it the couple of miles home instead of renting a car trailer. Looks like it has most of the GL10-type options except auto and air-suspension. Plans???? I am still stunned. Looks like this will be my "The Car" (instead of my wife's manual twagon once I get her auto primo). Let's see... I have an SPFI block, should have enough turbo heads... hhhmmm... need spider manifold... intercooler... maybe a d/r ft4wd w/difflock??? (or will that have the 3.90 gearing?) The one frustrating consequence is that I am now officially out of space to stack vehicles. And I have committed to getting one more auto t-wagon this weekend. An embarrassment of riches for someone netting $40/week... Hey oddcomp... I know you will be lurking soon. Instant Kharma has released you from any obligation to me. Even if you felt any debt you probably don't feel sorry for me now!!! Might still like a clutch-fork for a ea81 d/r 4mt... gotta quit grinning...

Just start using this stuff, so can't endorse yet. (Thought the bottle that I put in my newest-to-me seems to have made a big difference in startability after only 50 miles... coincidence?) Anyway, CostCo here sells a 4-pack of this cleaner for a reasonable price.

Last night my wife mentioned that there was a Subaru wagon in the "Recycler" category (free, take it away) of our local paper. She bugged me about it again this morning... alright, alright. Called, not expecting much as it was like 24 hours after everybody else would have seen it. Still have it, was former tenant's, don't know much other than she was putting oil and water into it alot. Go out to see it, and this is what was for free:

ONLY if you can assure me that they are beyond redemption. Otherwise, they will just feed my hoarding problem and I will keep them waiting for the day I can resurrect them!!!

How close do you need them? There was a post within the last week of weights for various Subarus. However, most of the 4WD models weren't included. Might serve as as starting point...

Well, absolutely not an expert, but since most EA82 death-cracks occur in the exhaust port area, I would be leary about removing any material from the exhaust port. (or, Oh! Knowledgeable Ones!, is this just the turbo heads that dies this way???) On a related note, I started a thread awhile ago about bandsawing a head apart to see how much was where. Kinda funny, but I think that we are still looking for dead heads as guinea pigs...

My $.02 is that, on first thought, you would need much more sophisticated exahust plumbing. The first turbo would extract pretty much all the exhaust energy that it could, leaving little for downstream turbo. At high exhaust flow rates it would act as a restriction, and the waste gate would be your only real source of exhaust energy. What I think that you would need is a LARGE dedicated wastegate upstream from the first turbo and feeding the second turbo. Both turbos would need dedicated (parallel) intake plumbing and the second one would need a one-way valve in its output. With this amount of complication, I think that what you reall want is a small, fast-spooling turbo combined with larger, higher-flow unit. Might want to google on "biturbo".

My first vote goes to fuel filter, also. Followed very closely by the maintenance items that grossgary mentioned.

The weep hole will just tell you if seal is leaking. (Bearings and seals are different issues but do effect each other.) Do check for weeping, but wiggle and rotate the shaft to look for worn out or seized bearings.