NorthWet

So your engine is now mounted on something other than this crossmember? (I'm ignorant of lifting options... I tend towards going lower.)

I started a thread a few weeks back on turbo with 9+cr... might want to read through it to get a quick read on opinions. I'll let others who know something tell you about wiring/dash. et al. But you do need to grab the front crossmember from the Turbo car as it is notched for the turbo plumbing. Gotta run... Pat

Oh, oddcomp, I guess I ignored you again, sorry... i was too busy washing my hair... or was it watching the grass grow... wasn't watching the paint dry, 'cuz its too wet to paint... I now how you can help me: give me a turbo and I will see how long it takes to burn the wastegate! lol

I understand both of your points. The real answer to my question lies, I think, in the original design and application specs for the turbo. It had to be able to withstand SOME period of time with wastegate clapper off of its seat, and from what I have heard (I don't have a boost gauge or anything else on my car that would tell me), the EA82T can run enough boost to keep the wastegate open. SOoo, sounds like Subaru either knew it was OK or just ignored it.

The term "bottleneck" really is not accurate for a compressible fluid such as air. More accurate is that it is a restriction. Restrictions are additive in their resistance to flow of a compressible fluid... the more restrictions, the more power needed to flow a given mass of the fluid. So it does make sense to reduce a restriction such as the throttle body. As far as volume affecting pressure, this is not really an issue. The throttle-body typically outflows into some sort of plenum, so the increase in volume causes by the TB is unimportant. And the volume does not really affect the pressure, just how long it takes for the pressure to change. And when you are talking in terms of 100-200 CFM (at STP) a volume change of a couple cubic inches is pretty negligible. The intercooler shouldn't lower the pressure due to cooling per se. It will make the engine "look larger" to the turbo, requiring it to be able to flow more air at a given pressure. I think the real argument against I/Cs is the restriction to flow that they can present. That is mostly a matter of engineering and a little thought given to the application. You wouldn't use a WRX I/C on a Cummins Turbo-Diesel... Anyway, that is my 2 cents as I see it.

BUMP for the night crew...

Amen.

G A S P ! ! ! "...How fast do you wanna go?" "If I was a rich man!..."

Is that a typo, or is that correct: 2 and 4 being "23"?

Some of us kicked this around a few weeks ago... I think it could be worthwhile IF you used some other method to get rid of most of the "high grade" heat first... and I probably would not use a/c'd air, but either directly stick the evaporator into the intake stream OR use the evaporator to chill a reservoir of water to be used in an air/water I/C. I think that it probably would be worth the energy used to chill, but that is just my gut feeling.

BUMP for the West Coast lunch crowd.

Someone with more experience will add their advice soon, but I would think that it is the oil pump gaskets or the seal on the front of the crankshaft.

Huh??? Either I am trying too hard to use pre-"Loyale" experience, or you are not looking where I would like you to look. Or both... Without meaning to sound flippant, how does a blinking light give you '1990 Loyale'? Are you looking a blinking LED under the steering column (aha! I said "wheel" didn't I?)? Sounds like maybe my directions were inaccurate... maybe?

Welcome! It would help to know a little more about your car before some of the questions get answered. Such as whether or not your 4WD is "Fulltime", "pushbutton" (on the shifter), or "shift on the fly" have to grab a lever to put it into 4wd. On the Loyales I am not sure what was offered... might have dropped ome options by then. Anyway, rear axles are pretty easy, as they are just slid onto splined stub axles at the differential and at the wheel hub. There is a roll pin (aka compression pin) that goes through the driveaxle and stub axle to hold them together... need to drive it out with a pin-punch 1/4in or 7/32in... not sure what metric "real" size (metric car, eh?) is. Sometimes the splines are rusty or gummed and don't want to break loose. Not too hard to do, though. Yes, the driveshaft and driveaxles always turn on the 4WD Subarus. Depending on transmission, it may or may not be getting power at any given time. Engine leaks are common. Front/rear crankshaft seals, camshaft seals, cam cover gaskets all are common leakers. Lots of threads here talk about this. And consider replacing the timing-belts unless you know that they were replaced recently. As far as the engine check light, the enginc control unit (ECU) is under the steering wheel, prob behind a plastic trim piece, and has a flashing LED when there has been an error. Count the flashes (blink-blink..blink-blink-blink.....) and we can tell you where to find the mening of the code. Good luck! And 260Kkm is just broken in.

Please reread first line of my post. I have no intention of running the turbo outside of its boost range. I have some turbo experience dating back to the '70s (back when I had to deal with flow maps to find which $1000 unit best suited my application), and am not likely to do anything truly stupid.

Suspend your desire to fix a problem, ignore WHY I might want to know this: Does anybody have a good feel (or hard doc/experience) with how long the wastegate clapper can stay off of its seat before something burns or otherwise gets damaged? As in, if you ran a turbo at its gated-boost limit, how long before its wastegate was damaged? How long before damage if wastegate was open at low-power settings (an otherwise non-positive manifold-pressure situation)? Thanks in advance!

... And I am as thick as a brick this morning. Have you tried running any numbers to figure out co2 flow needed to cool the intake charge at max flow? Like, how long would 5-10 lbs of co2 last? (Short answer: Long enough!!!)

That thing about having a good supply of CO2, you'd have it made. I'd be Sorry Out of Luck. Yeah fix the little things... priority one IMO would be regulation of CO2-flow/outlet temp. Do that and you would be in Fat City. Oh, and that copper-thing! (BTW, I misquoted copper's advantage overt aluminum to a couple people this weekend... overstated by 'bout half an order of magnitude. It's only about TWICE as good as aluminum, not the 8 that I thought... other number had to do with heat transfer but was not exclusively conductivity. Thermal conductivity chart: http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=233 Doubt that exchanger tube size would have much effect on icing. Ready to make one??? Didn't look at other toys yet. You know, one of the problems of being an asocial ubernerd is that I have no idea what you mean by dripping. :-\ Is this like when a boy dog approaches a fire-hydrant??? (Shambles off, mumbling to himself: I got a bunch of copper pipe around here somewheres...)

Oh, and the piping should be copper not aluminum. Couldn't pass up an opportunity to show my bias!

Do ya REALLY want to know? See all that frost-soon-to-be-ice on the outside? What do you think the inside looks like? *IF* you had some feedback loop that controlled the cooling based on outflow temp and/or used the "waste" co2 stream to dehumidify the inlet air it could work... especially if you have access to a large amount of compressed/solidified CO2... ... gee, who do I know that has that? Ka-chink!!! Sale $.02

OK... Heated water comes to thermostat housing... on the side of the T-stat housing is a temperature sendor unit for the temp gauge. The temp sender works by grounding the power coming to it from the temp guage: As water temp increases the sender' resistance decreases. So for this to work, the temp gauge has to be getting (proper) power, the internals have to be working, the wiring to the sender has to be unbroken and ungrounded, and the sender has to be working. The hot water passes through the t-stat, through the "upper" radiator house to radiator side-tank. On this side-tank, near the drain plug, is a thermoswitch used to control the electric fan. (The water then passes from this tank across the radiator tube&fins, into other tank, through lower radiator hose and back to water pump... sorry but you said... ) Anyway, once the water's temp reaches the setpoint for the thermoswitch, it switches "on" and allows the fan to come on. (Can't remember if it switches ground or power on subie fans... too tired to look.)

Just made a fresh cooker of Thai Jasmine (see def 5). Ummmmm! Only rice def found at my place.

Not talking about volume of noise so much as quality of noise... Sound passing down a pipe creates dissonant sounds that personally annoys me. Yet another personal quirk.

Don't know much about EA71s or early EA81s, but here goes some ideas: I was pretty sure that yours was an electric fuel pump... my '82 is. Noise would be coming from tank area. I am also assuming that your car has an ECU-controlled carburetor. There were at least 2 versions of carb on the EA81 that I have heard of, and they are a little different. But mine has 2 solenoids mounted near the starter area but forward on the engine, and these normally click as the ECU decides what changes need to be made to the carburetor. (They change air-flow through certain jets within carb, one for idle, one for off-idle.) So clicking may be these. Probably check normal tune-up stuff and vacuum leaks. Please, any more knowledgeable people around?

SUs usually don't leak gas. Probably had the seals go too dry at one point. SUs have a some advantages over DCOEs... especially cost!!! They (and the later Strombergs) were the mainstay of British performance cars until Lucas (Prince Of Darkness!!! ) started selling their FI. Jaguar, Lotus, MG, Triumph, Austin Healey... all came with SUs. Datsun, while influenced by British design, came out with several cars with multiple SUs. That being said, I have personally had enough of SUs. They use metal-to-metal sliding surfaces on their constant-depression slides, which can gum up pretty quickly. And I think I spent more time synchronizing the dual SUs on our Triumph more than I spent driving it.