NorthWet

I've never used anything other than my hands to push tensioner to max-slack point. Maybe I'm a baaad boy, but didn't seem to matter. Camshaft sprocket wrench as described in writeup also is not absolutely necessary (unless I misread), as long as you can tighten the sprocket attachment bolts. The belt tension wrench is a different matter, since it could/does affect the belt alignment and tension a little. All it needs to be is a plate with 2 pins/bolts sticking out that stick into holes in the periphery of the cam sprocket, and a bolt head or similar near its center that you can put a wrench/socket on. I made one using an electrical outlet box cover and a few bolts. (I also misread the torque spec and made it strong enough for 120FT-lbs!!! ) Any sort of pin-wrench that you can put a little counter-torque on the sprocket really should do.

Thanks for the info. I doubt if it is improperly set timing. I would lean more towards something in ignition going bad under load. (Assuming it turns out not to be the fuel filter.) Marginal spark plugs/wires, distributor cap/rotor and/or coil. I am not sure about Subarus, but on my Datsun when the ignition is misfiring the electric tachometer goes crazy (getting signal directly off coil line, it shows high/low primary current variations). Does your tachometer (assuming AU DL's have a tach? :-\ ) behave differently when problem occurs?

It makes sense. IF I remember correctly (see previous disclaimer), the compressor cycling is controlled by system pressure. Once it reaches a certain pressure it cycles off until pressure drops below some low-pressure set point. If the expansion valve is wide full open, then it will keep the pressure below high set point longer, keeping the compressor on longer. You MAY be running against the high-pressure set point and/or the over-pressure point (may be one in the same on soobs, I honestly haven't looked into it). As I think that I typed previously, there should be a pressure switch on the receiver/dryer (canister with sightglass). You might try bypasing the switch next time the compressor stays off. WARNING: If there really is an over-pressure problem, bypassing this switch longer than necessary to see if the clutch activates could cause problems, including blowing out an over-pressure plug on the receiver/dryer which will spray all of your refridgerant into engine compartment and maybe your hands or face. My memory is really stretched by the preceeding. Again, if it does not sound right (except for the warning) please get a second opinion.

My thought, too. Don't be looking down the hole when you do it, though.

Thast's what windows are for!

Hey, I have some cracked heads if you want to throw them on for comparison!

Thanks!

First, there almost certainly is one that has same threads but larger diameter gasket. I don't know off hand which one, but some hunting through Wal-Mart or similar place might turn up something. That being said, I have seen a lot of comments in posts about the importance of getting the proper filter for the subes. Not quite sure if this has to do with anti-drainback checkvalves or something else. Again, somebody who knows what they are talking about should really answer this question. One question that I DO have is: What does the sealing surface on the oil-pump side of this adapter look like? Normally, the sealing areas are identical or at least very similar. It is intended to replace a particular diameter filter, so both sides usually match. I would be worried if this one is different. If it is different, then I would expect the instructions to say what filter it takes. Just something to check...

My first thought, too.

Still has to connect the "green connectors" before checking/setting timing, right???

Cool! But looking at the pictures, my first thought was that I would want to wrap a piece of steel strap from the edge of the flange around your new bolt. Might not matter. but might keep bolt from cracking its welds later. Just a thought...

The EGR valve itself is on the back side of the intake manifold, kinda forward of the starter. Other, more knowledgeable, members will chime in but it seems to me that there is a solenoid associated with the EGR, controls vacuum, and IT is likely what the code is referring to. A bad connection or improper resistance from the solenoid coil???? Good luck!

Way too serious! I think we all know about temp issues (I personally disagree with running a much-lower t-stat for general use as some would have me, but at least you didn't say 160F). Definitely charge temperature reduction. Definitely reduce thermal stress on engine/tranny with proper coolers. I think that Oddcomp is just vamping here, trying to get people thinking. Like I was when talking about second ignition source. If we stuck with traditional "that's the way it works and always should", then we might be driving flat-heads with hot-tube ignition. Oh, and rear-wheel drive by chain. I think that you are right, but odd was sort of blue-skying. Fun to do once in a while.

You mean that you think this exhaust leak is causing your top end issues? If so, I strongly doubt it. Thinking timing/tuning/filter for something like that. Exhaust leaks on a n/a car should have hardly any effect on power; probably more of a help at speed than a hindrance. Was the emissions spacer for air induction or for EGR? If EGR, how did you handle the intake side (or was it not present to begin with)?

Yeah, I figured that it was prob your brat or you would have known. I got a dumb idea... Dumb 'cuz it is prob more expensive and time consuming then just fixing the problem. How about stacking a couple gaskets together? Wouldn't be perfect, wouldn't last, kinda pricey. I am assuming that your long term fix involves re-installing the emissions spacer?

Wasn't talking about preignition per se, but more like pre-detonation. I know that preignition can be worse than detonation, since it stresses things moving upwards AND can heat things enough for detonation on later cycles. I was thinking of something to cause semi-controlled ignition of the endgas. Now, I don't think that there is any practical way of doing this... might work on a steady-speed industrial engine, but then you wouldn't be flirting with detonation in that application, would you? and i told you that I was searhing for my Lithium!!! LOL Now where is it... Oh, and my wife's Mitsubisihi ran 100k after getting its head crack TIG'd... don't know how long it lasted with new owner. Sometimes miracles happen.

No experience, but general advice. Clean it up, start it up (after refilling oil ), and see where it leaks. If you lost that much oil in a short drive than it should be obvious where the leak is.

Which soob? Your turbo? If so, that sound you hear is your power escaping...

I think SOP for cracks between valves (at least in other Al heads) is drill-and-fill, aka plugging. IMHO, I don't think the crack would have much effect one way or the other over detonation. Sharp edges are usually an ignition point (as in preignition) and not something that would cause the endgas to overheat. Plus it is located pretty close to the primary ignition point (spark plug). Speaking of minds wandering... what would be neat to prevent detonation is a second ignition point. Can't really put a second spark plug on our heads , but what if we could put a deliberate blemish on the endgas end of the combustion chamber that could "preignite" the endgas before it reached detonation conditions? Something running hot normally but able to get hotter as flame front approached? Maybe coated in a catalyst that lowers ignition temperature??? (Now, where's my Lithium... :crazy laughter: )

Can't help you with th hub at the moment (plus shipping would probable be worse than from NC!!!), but... ...I'm curious: Which bolts did you break, and what kind of sad-sack machine shop doesn't think they can get them out??? They don't have drills, ez-outs, PB and blue tipped wrench? Maybe they just don't want to take the risk? :-\ I broke a stud in a motorcycle head once, tried to use an extractor to remove it, but the extractor snapped off flush with the stud remains... Broken stud, broken *hardened* extractor, aluminum head. Hmmmm. My machine shop said no problem and cored out the bolt, TIG'd new material into the hole, redrilled and retapped. Can't do that with cast-iron, though...

...Just a little more info, please: Carbureted, SPFI, MPFI? Thanks!

Disclaimer: Last time I worked professionally with A/C was 1977... Do NOT take what I say as absolute fact. If it sounds wrong then get another opinion, please. Expansion valves shouldn't click... they normally have just a bulb-type temperature sensor and tubing connected to a diaphram, which controls the orifice that the refrigerant passes through. Usually, the only clicking from an A/C system should be the clutch on the compressor cycling on and off. If you are hearing clicking noises from the dash that aren't just transconducted noise from the compressor clutch then I have no idea what it is. (i.e. - If the noise really is from the dash then I am stumped.) At this point, given that you say the compressor is cycling (as opposed to stopping and never coming back on), my guess is that the A/C system is just not up to the task. Possibly low refrigerant charge, obstructed condenser ("radiator"), or bad expansion valve. Maybe someone on USMB with more (and more-current!!! lol) A/C knowledge can offer some insight?

Hard to tell without more info on vehicle, as calebz requested. Does your car even have a carburetor, or is it fuel injected? Possible problems are dependent on car specifications. And I assume that you are in Australia, so your vehicle may not be the same as cars imported to USA; specs are even more important then.

What year/model is your car? *edit - Sorry just found info in orig post. Old-timer's disease... - end edit* Although I don't have my manuals at hand, I believe that at least with the pre-Legacy models Subaru did not have any temp sensor... It relies on the expansion valve alone. I have a thought, based on your "it operates normally but only for a few minutes and then after that the air no longer blows cold": What does the air temp feel like when you just are doing a "vent"-type function (bi-level??)? It is possible that you are getting hot heater air leaking in and mixing with A/C cooled air. As engine warms up, the heater air would get warmer. Our '82's heater has a water valve that stopped closing all of the way, causing this problem for us. And my Ford Aerostar (which has constant hot water flow to heater and just mixes air) has started not closing its heater-air flap - vent air blows warm now. Just something more to check. Oh, and make sure that nothing is clogging/blocking the fins on the A/C's "radiator" (between the grill and you coolant radiator).

Great! I am sooo jealous!!! Hhhhmmm... how long for me to drive to Wyoming...