NorthWet

To get you by until you are set for your swap, you could just fix the governor valve in your 3AT. Externally accessible, not too hard to do.

Might want to talk with "Scott in Bellingham" (aka SJR). He could tell you exactly what is needed for his adapter plate.

Is 3.90 where you need to go, or where you would prefer to go? Nissan Z-cars came equipped with 3.70's and lower-numerical (JDM had a 3.90).

The senders are also easily damaged. I had one sender that made the dash gauge read below zero! IIRC, Rockauto recently listed a new oil pump for under $90... but you had to search using the part number. As GD pointed out, this may or may not help.

If you want to keep the covers, several members have recommended using zip-ties through the bolt holes to hold things together... simple removal if the belts fail on the road. On one of mine, I bot longer bolts and installed them from the backside, threading them through the captive nuts (like a stud, but with a backside head). Added some flat washers and nyloc nuts, and was a happy camper. BTW, I used stainless steel to ward off fasteners corroding together.

Quick response while I try to think... Did you examine the oil pump for wear? There are a couple specific clearances that should be checked, but a quick visual examination of the 2 rotating parts (proper names escape me) where they ride against each other will often show abrasive damage (scratches, gouges).

Both Walmart and Discount tires tend to be reasonable for steel wheels (I haven't tried for alloys yet); I haven't checked America's Best, but imagine they are similar. I have used both for snow-tire swaps (and mounts, once I got spare rims).

A couple probabilities come to mind, the first being a bad ignition switch. It is very common to have contact issues in the ignition switch. The other possibility is either a bad ignition ballast resistor or the ignition wiring running to the "run" side of the resistor (as opposed to the coil-side that bypasses the resistor). (This is a bit of speculation, as I can't remember for sure if the EA71 uses a separate ballast resistor.)

I am considering... need some time to think. Casual looking on NASIOC came up with turbo sets for around 35USD.

Looks like other options may be available... Nissan VG33 .50mm over looks to have close specs...

^^^ just as GD said.

I have used both ebay vendors cited. A big +1 for mizumauto for their customer service. I ordered the wrong kit from them (TOTALLY my fault... wrong year ), and they bent over backwards to help me. This included trying to assemble a kit that they don't normally carry.

Ok, laughing is over. Looks like the boy (wisely) took a pass on this car. Mechanical looked OK, but looked like it had been driven through Scotch Broom (local weed bush) and blackberry brambles... lots of scratches on front plastic work. Someone had Bondo'd a hood bulge/scoop to the hood (with less skill then even I could muster), and the hood support struts could not take the extra weight. Inside was by "uncaring male", a real mess of missing bits and pieces. Seller wanted $1300. Boy is also looking at a GEO Tracker and an RX7 with "a souped up engine that can do 190". Nice to hear after I committed an afternoon to help him get his "dream car". Oh, well. The day wasn't wasted, as I was able to close the sunroof on my coworker's Volvo S80, which has been stuck open for the last 4 months. Snowstorms, rainstorms, windstorms, combo-storms... Leave it to Volvo to have a computer control everything electrical (door locks, turn signals, sunroof, et al) and not have any non-electronic backup. I guess that my reward was getting to see my coworker in a slinky black dress as she went out dancing. Chivalry may not be dead, but it is pretty stupid!

Thanks guys. A little googling makes me think that it is a 3.1 V6, and looks like the last year of that gen's platform. 16yr old male and an 11 year old image car... Wouldn't be my choice, but his mom seems ok with it. It sounds like his desire for it is mostly because he likes the look of it. (Not my cup of tea, but not my choice, either.) My coworker/friend and I have had this "appropriateness" discussion before. (sigh) Well, I am off to help them look at it. Thanks again for the info, and where to look for some common issues!

Although it doesn't quite match your symptoms, make sure that the nut on the alternator output post (the one where the plastic melted) is tight. A loose connection there would cause higher resistance, and thus heat. The resulting symptoms would be more likely a gradual loss of electrical power, unless, of course, the heat toasted the regulator and/or diodes and caused thebatterry to dead-short through the alternator.

Many bikes used CVs, one per cylinder; just have to get the taper right to deal with the heavy pulsation. Certainly doable, just maybe tedious. The problem that I am envisioning is dealing with 2 pulses in succession from the siamesed intake port, then pausing for 2 beats before the next suck-suck-pause-pause cycle. This would be equivalent to a twingle (4-stroke twin with a 180-degree crank). Might be tough to tune it. Something to consider doing is use an ECU/O2-sensor/duty-solenoids from a carb model to tune the mixture without overthinking the needle taper.

A coworker is looking to buy a 92 Camaro for her son. Tomorrow, she would like me to look over from a mechanical viewpoint. I know nothing more about it at this moment. Any tips? Good/bad engines/trannies? Other common issues/failure-points? Craidslist posting says "V6 engine, automatic"... lots of useful info, right?

Follow this link to the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) thread that talks about replacing axles: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

I do not, but do you have a Walmart nearby? If so, have you asked them?

I toasted 3 hard-to-find alternators (SVX) before I realized that my battery was bad and was killing the alternators.

Thanks for the info. I think that I will play with the cheaper and more locally available turbo pistons first, but if that is viable I would be interested in NA version(s).

Ahhh. Gotcha. I misunderstood, thinking that this "issue" was general rather than with an individual. I will clean up my mess, scrape off my shoes, and bow out.

They do care. The metering needles need different tapers to be close to accurate for changes to the cylinder(s) that they feed. Trying to feed one bank from a carb will be like trying to feed a "twin-gle" from one carb: probably get different A/F ratios for each of the pair. Almost any dual-carb arrangement will have this issue, but the inertia of the CV slide will probably aggravate this. My experience was mostly with British and Japanese cars that used multicarb set of SU or Stromberg carbs. Metering needles were the devil to get right when making major changes. All of my other CV and slide throttle experience was one-carb-per cylinder Japanese multis.

Is the "white smoke" really smoke or water vapor? Does it dissipate in the air on its own after a few seconds, or only after the wind dilutes and disperses it? White smoke typically only comes from burning ATF. Oil will produce blue smoke, gas makes black. Water will make white vapor that dissipates quickly.

Post removed as unneeded and irrelevant. Any responses to this post were accurate and reasonable.