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NorthWet

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Everything posted by NorthWet

  1. The 1982 EA81 engine (OHV/pushrod engine as opposed to the OHC EA82) should have a pointless distributor that does not require and ECM/ECU. I am not sure if its amp/control circuitry is intergral with the disty or in a separate box, but should be pretty simple to find and install. You will also need the ignitor and coil which should be mounted together on the coil bracket. (Again, not sure if the EA81s used a seperate "ignitor" (power transistor) or if it was integral with the other electronics.) BTW if the distributor is on the front of the engine, it is an EA81. If the distributor is on the engine's left cam case then it is an EA82.
  2. Assuming that this is an EA82 engine (OHC), my first check would be for a snapped timing belt (there are 2, so driver's side could still be good and driving the distributor while the other 2 cylinders are doing nothing). The next thing to check is ignition timing to see if it is at least approximately right and doesn't wander all over the place (worn distributor bushings). Then spark plugs and wires. If you have a carburetor, I would doubt that you also have a coolant temperature sensor (CTS), or if you do whether it would cause that much of a problem. (It can on SPFI and MPFI engines).
  3. The UK manuals the I have read over the years refer to it as a propellor shaft. Boats use screws, planes use propellors. Semantics... Otherwise, like GD typed. However, I believe that at least some of the EA82 shafts in the US market had non-removable rear sections (at least not readily so).
  4. Agreed. Just didn't want some fool having a gas puddle on some hot part and think that it was safe to play with. (And maybe making the next Darwin Awards, with last words being, "GD said it was safe as milk..., so hold my beer and watch THIS!!! )
  5. Not entirely true (but essentially so for normal situations). It has to do with temperature and not phase. Heat liquid gasoline up to above its flash point and introduce an oxidizer and it will readily combust. You touched on the "normal situation" aspect: It isn't that the liquid phase is noncombustible, but rather that if its temperature is low then any minor heat source ("match") has its heat spread-out/dissipated too rapidly to provide enough energy to start combustion.
  6. I don't think that the FSM shows the ECU grounding the pump, just the relay control circuit. I need to do some proper testing later today... last session was squeezed-in under less than ideal siituations. (This is wife's car, and she is getting a little peeved about having to drive the Aerostar around. "When Momma's not happy, NOBODY is happy!" )
  7. Several people in my neck of the woods.
  8. I bypassed the relay, running a jumper wire from hot-to-switched contacts on the connector and appeared to get no voltage at the pump connector. However... ...there seems to be some irregularities with my testing results, possibly due to the relay connector being near impossible for ham-fisted ETs to touch, pump connectors that use small contact pins, and environment that is both dark and freezing. I had thought about ohming from relay connector to pump connector, but my dark-and-frozen mind somehow didn't think to use the spool of wire that I was trying to use (unsuccessfully) to "ghetto" power straight back to the pump connector (hampered by the aforementioned small pins and a possibly non-working wire tap-splice). Take another stab at this Wednesday evening...
  9. Update: Fuel pump is not getting power to its connector, I have bypassed the pump relay with a wire jumper so it should be getting continuous power (yes, 12v at the relay connector). Anybody know if there is another connector between the relay and the pump? And/or where the wiring runs?
  10. Manarius, I had already done that before my last post (yes, sedan). Connector looks fine, no significant power at the connector when in TEST mode. Prior to posting, I had replaced the FF (which, BTW, was not clogged and flowing fairly freely) and installed a pressure guage. 'bout time to go outside and do more diagnosing.
  11. Devil's Advocate time: I have used FRAM filters for over 30 years and around 600k miles and have never had a bit of trouble with them. There seems to be a lot of rumor an innuendo around here about them, and I think that is unfortunate. This is not intended to be an endoresment, I just do not care for witch hunts.
  12. Well, the other day while I had 15 minutes to spare and a helper (kind of) I connected a "noid", and it indicate injectors were firing nominally normal. Today, I realized that the fuel pump was accessible without crawling in the snow/ice/slush, being accessible from inside rather than under chassis like my OldGen cars. SO,... I checked out the pump and it is not working. Does not seem to have power at the connector, but with TEST connectors together and ignition on I can hear the cooling fans slow down rythmically and a clicking like a relay from near the dash. Temperature was dropping and light was failing, so I will follow up tomorrow.
  13. "Spirited Away", beginning scene where the father got off the main roads and into the woods.
  14. Ditto on focusing on the 4Runner first.. but my first thought was a favorite line from an Anime, "We can't be lost... we have 4-Wheel Drive!"
  15. Non-definitive, but I do not recall anyone typing that there is any difference.
  16. Heater core uses brass pipes... engine side uses steel and will have rust/corrosion issues.
  17. "CHECK ENGINE" light on the dashboard. It means that the engine control unit (ECU) detected an error.
  18. Forgot that you had mentioned that you had gotten some movement on the bolt before it broke (or was it just twisting off its head???). If possible, soak with PB and then try screwing it back IN. Try working it back out/in, making sure plenty of PB is available, and see if you can gradually work it out.
  19. I assume that you are talking about where the suspension control arm mounts to the engine crossmember? (Rather than the control arm itself, fore/aft reaction rod or its mounts?) If so, what GD said (except for a couple more bolts that mount the engine). Really, not a hard fix. There are body panel and glass differences, just none germain to this thread.
  20. The corrosion is surface only as the pipe is brass. If you can use a chemical to clean it (even the PB Blaster will probably work fine). I have been recommended KY as a hose/bushing lube by the local Navy shipyard folk.
  21. Apply PB Blaster penetrant oil, heat if you can, a tap or two with a hammer/mallet, patience, repeat over the course of a day or so. Sears and others sell special sockets that grab stubs and broken bolts (sounds like this would be an oft-used tool for you ), otherwise vice grips or weld on a nut. If the bolt head broke off from the torque, it is unlikely that slotting for a screwdriver will do any good. EZ-Outs/Screw-extractors are the Devil; break one off (REAL likely) and you are looking at machine shop work or replacement head.
  22. Yes, EA82 OHC engine. Head cracking issues are pretty much an MPFI/Turbo issue, and it is unlikely that your heads need anything more than normal work and new head gaskets. To avoid confusion, look for parts for a 90 or 91 Loyale; the computerized parts systems at most auto parts stores are messed up when it comes to distinguishing between the EA81 OHV equipped cars and the EA82 OHC equiped ones, since they overlapped between 85 and 89(???). Replace the timing belts while you are at it, and probably some other maintanence work.
  23. Well, yes, but... Engine oils contain additives that are long chain molecules with IIRC a sulfur atom at one end that will adhere to a metal surface rather strongly (typically needs temperature to do this). The effect is that the engine surface gets a surface coat similar to a plush-pile rug. The stronger the bond (and I think the longer/stronger the chain) the better boundary protection it offers. It could be inferred that a better oil has a better additive for this function.
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