mikaleda

Ya I would be looking into battery and connections myself. You can always take it to your local parts store and have battery and charging system checked for free.

Used to do it in our shop all the time, it will have a tire light on, but shouldn't cause any running issues. I did hear a rumor though that they were going to pass a law that would hold any shop liable if they let a car go out with a tire light on, I don't know if this ever went through or not though, but you local shop should know wether they can do it or not.

The squeal you are hearing is more than likely you throw out bearing, wich would mean you about due for a clutch replacememt. If you haven't heard any grinding noises or had 4th or fifth poping out of gear the input shaft bearings more than likey okay. When you replace your clutch, make sure they use the right gear oil to fill it as well, I've had a few shops try and put 80w-90 in subies around here and that will mess them right up. You need a 75w-90 oil and I would suggest Subaru oil or motul 300 depending on how Much you would like to spend.

I hate this, my supplier just changed brands and all the new pads I get are like this, so now I have spend my time filing down the pads, then you have a non painted surface that will corode. I like to buy the kits that come with all new hardware, they seem to be better quality

If the interlock is at fault sometimes you can put it in nutreul to get it to start since the nutreul contacts don't get used as much. Only the MT had a relay inline of the starter circuit and that was only so the clutch switch didn't have to carry the entire voltage of the trigger wire.

On real stubborn ones I typically heat them up a bit with a propane torch, just a bit then I soak it with pb blaster and let it sit. Once you do that a good box end wrench and a hammer makes a good poor mans impact.

50/50 Acetone and ATF works great for pentreant I use it all the time for stubborn bolts. I agree with above comments, I always remove the LCA from the ball joint, not the ball joint from the hub, much easier and does much less damage. You will need at least a 36" good prybar and a mini sledge, put pressure on the ball joint with the bar and smack the LCA a few times and it should pop loose no problem.

I just bought a new front O2 sensor for my 99 outback a month ago for $50 and its was OEM bosch. I beleive I found it on partsgeek.com worked great for me.

Okay, I would start by checking for a vaccume leak, I would start by checking the IACV it could be stick open. Maybe check for disconnected hoses first.

Okay, does it smell like its running rich, can you smell fuel when its doing this?

This thread goes into detail of what this job takes and I beleive there is pictures showing where all the screws are.http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142

Okay, first, please lay off the caps lock. In the forum world this is equivalent to yelling all the time. Second this is a problem I have heard before in the dual stereo/HVAC units and it is caused by contacts in the unit desoldering. There is info on this around, I beleive I saw a good thread on the outback forums.

Is the check engine light on? If it is I would start by checking the codes. I suggest that you don't drive it like this, because you might be damaging the cattilitic converter.

Could also be a bad battery in your key fob, just remembered having this problem at the service center. A new button cell battery in the fib fixed it.

How old is the battery? Low battery voltage can do all sorts of weird things. If its original its a good chance its time for a new one

The biggest thing is head gaskets, IIRC they typicaly go out between 130-150k. Other than that you should check the usuals.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/97208-bolt-in-ea-series-alternator-upgrade-nissan-maxima-alt-installation-guide/?fromsearch=1

Gm alternators fit, get a self igniter so easy one wire hook up. You can get them pumped up to 160amps I beleive. I think you do have to either file one side of the alt or shorten the bracket. There's info on it in here, but it will be in the old gen forum. I think the Nissan maxima has a high output alternator that fits the old gen loyals, that's a direct fit plug and play, GD has a writeup in the old gen forum IIRC

Lol, where there's a will there's a way. You may need some flagging though

I'd just tow it, but if you care about the transmission for some reason pull the four driveshaft bolts

Starting fluid doesn't work in multi point fuel injection in my experience. A spark tester is cheap and the only way to properly check for spark. The first step is to figure out wether its spark, fuel, or compression. Your fuel pump sounds like its doing what it supposed to, the fuel pump only runs long enough to prime the system. I would be focusing on making sure what is missing fuel or spark.

I wouldn't add it to the oil, I only use it for an intake cleaner.

Actually seafoam does work as an carbon cleaner. Here is the proof you want bushwick. Does Seafoam Actually Work in a Car? (with Proof): This guy runs a snake can before and after so there's no denying it does help with carbon build up. Granted a bit of water does almost the same thing, but I think the seafoam does a better job IMHO.

I'm about 8 miles south of priest lake, fairly hilly and I live about 18 miles to the back of schwietzer by snowmobile. Lots of fun sledding hills around, old log roads can make fun sledding hills.

Ya this has been a weird winter, we didn't get hardly any snow till about a week ago and now its been dumping. We usually have more snow than this.