monstaru

Tomorrow is the day!!:headbang:I appreciate the advice.We should stickie this! I know it is basic information, but rather helpful. I am glad to know that we might know what we are doing.:-p I'll take video of it running cheers

Why wouldn't you?Full battery, and good starter inclusive? Anyways, good info.We are on track then. cheers

I don't buy small speed parts:-p Actually, I think that having that light on gives me some sort of solice. LOL

I cut my ABS lines to the sensors on the rear, I have an awesome ABS light on all the time now.I am to lazy to take the dash out again. I was going to take the entire system out, but, after looking at how the brake lines are run i decided not to tackle it ....LOL I would not have been able to keep/mount the sensors anyway, as I have rear discs from an older Lego.If I would have known that just stuffing them up in a cable tie would keep the light off, I would have done that.I also have most of the ABS plugs out of the unit under the hood. The fuse is the non perm way to go. I also disabled my airbags by unplugging the brain. If you are doing some real offroading, you do not want one of those things goin off.... cheers

Some front lift blocks Some rear droppage for block install,this one was interesting.I lowered the crossmember with 2", and just used the Outback 1" block for the front of the diff.Keeping it up a skosch in the front.. I ran into a hitch with the rear strut tops.The Forester tops are rubberized , and do not allow you to pound out the studs to add longer studs for block install. I may try to find or fab some internal nuts out of small tubing. Or I may just go get some strut tops fromt the dealer.It would be easier, and I could get group N's:-p.. We will see. All of the rear lift is in, except the strut tops.So tomorrow will be transfering wiring on the transmissions, and getting that thing in the car for the new transmission mount to be fabbed. The thing about only putting 2 inches of lift in this car is that the trans wil still be "in the tunnel",the mount actually goes up from the body to mount the trans. So, if you make the mount flat across, it is still tucked up a bit, but dropped the 2 inches I need it to be. IE: I am super close.The New, New engine is basically put together now.So that will start going in as soon as the trans is mounted. Woot! cheers

Yep, Undo sway bars, stand on that knuckle with your body weight whilst someone guides the bolts into the holes.If that doesna work, then loosen crossmember.It WILL move a skosch.But Will release and move better if you undo the steering linkage. It kinda blows me away that this is not all common sense to you .You have had a billion of these cars apart.:-pThere are no real tricks, just get'er done! cheers ****EDIT:Outback struts have a higher spring perch.*****

6 inches, 235's and no sway bars makes an ea81 wagon pretty squirrely.But I still drove 70 down the highway.The Toyota trucks I have driven were a very long time ago,but the solid axle ones had at least 33's on them with body lifts, and I can say that even then it did not matter much.Stable as can be . It is a moot point to vantage your own opinion of handling to anothers.Driving styles are way to different. cheers

Lets get something straight here.I do not doubt Delta's ability to be right.They DO know their ************.I do not doubt much about this entire situation. I simply cannot have it go wrong,So I am a skosch hesitant.thats all. Thanks for everyones input.I will update when she is running. cheers

So , lets recount for a second. 08 Forester struts, redrilled rear top for Forester pattern. I started out with the front on the phase one Outback stock lift blocks and ALK's... The rear has aftermarket adjustable Lateral links... Rear discs stockish EJ22recently reseale/gasketed with questionable heads.Shows signs of failure/unsure...., with Auto 4.11 Also a failing radiator... Whats happening now:frankenmotor, 4.44 auto with 4.44 rear clutch type LSdiff(8x,xxx mile diff! I was told), 2" lift, Brand new mudders previously viewed, etc.. Pile of parts Left =old trans Have to transfer over the electronics to the new trans, already did the filter kit on it Full droop after front 2" lift install Ill get other pics, but I used the metal strut lift up front.I intend to use the UHMW for the rear struts.As the front metals ones came out better than the front UHMW, and vice versa. Some head action from earlier today: STill have a bit to do to get her back on her feet again, but Mugs and I will be pluggin away over the next several days to get this done so I can use her for a Daily:-p.

There is plenty of assembly lube , like , lots of it. I was there when it was assembled,I was working on something else... It just makes me nervous.... cheers

EJ251 block ej22 roller rocker heads DElta 200's Everything went together this morning.It won't be in the car until next week. I am a skosch concerned about immeddiately running a motor at 1500 to 2000 RPM's right off of the bat for break in What say ye? HOw do YOU prime your engine ?Bump it over without spark plug wires attached?etc? Cheers

200 grind cams where put in EJ22 heads this morning.Those heads were put on anEJ251 block..075 MLS SUbaru head gaskets. It won't run until next week.AS the car is in pieces right now.Literally. Can't wait! Thanks Ken.Cheers

Then I would read more, and start saving pennies. Everyone started somewhere, and the only difference between them and you is patience. If you are going to have someone make them for you , then THEY should look at the mounting points to grasp an understanding. It IS really simple. Make a block for every point the body mounts to the suspension. There are threads on here showing pics of all the blocks from a Legacy with an 5mt. You are in a warm climate, go lay on the ground under your car for a minute.And really LOOk. cheers

Impreza.

IT is really simple when you look at the underside of your car.If you cannot figure it out, you probably do not need to tackle it.All of the info to teach you how to figure it out is in the FAQ, AND several threads here. cheers FYI, Stella will always the baddest rump roast OBS in the land.I promise.

I went to a Plastics supplier so that I could get the knowledge of the folks that work there.Priceless. cheers

I got the UHMW from Laird plastics.They are an international company .There are also some good deals for it on E-bay.Ijust happened to be impatient and wanted to do it without waiting on shipping. cheers

I would rather leave that material, although I would think it would hold up. I will just tack the new bolts on from behind.no big thing. cheers

Look at the date on the post .This thread is almost 8 yrs old. No need to make a spool.Just weld it if that is what you want. cheers

Alot of the folks are doing these lifts, so I thought I would go get some plastic and start to cuttin. So I took me some rear strut covers, and then cut up a front mount to get my templates. 2" UHMW-PE Picked up this little gem for a tool trade and some very minimal cash. Also I used a jigsaw with a 6 point per inch tooth to clean up a bunch of stuff after drilling the holes. I also sanded a bit : Test fitting to see clearance , now is time to mark and drill the holes. This is basically how you go about it.Use your head, and be smart about it and you can do it mad cheap ,really.I been looking for an excuse to get a small bandsaw forever.Now I can get a rheostat, and a metal bandsaw blade later:clap:. Without the bandsaw, I am at $70 bucks.Hell , with the bandsaw and drill bit I'm at $105. I did this with thick rump roast plastic.Imagine how easy you could make some out of cutting board from the dollar store:popcorn: cheers

Delrin is different than HDPE. Delrin is Acetal Homopolymer. and HDPE=High Density PolyEthelyne There is a good explanation on this site. http://www.spiratex.com/materials.php cheers

I just literaly started cutting some out the other day. I am going 2". I decided I wanted to try some plastic, and it seems like it will work. The HDPE is torsionally resistant to about 45000psi.UHMW is like 57000.I may have those numbers backwards. The folks at Laird Plastics that I talked to Locally were not even close to worried about the plastic being the problem. With the loads being mostly from the downward force it should not be an issue at all.The thing to worry about is the longer bolt.(Since it will be taking almost all of the load from sideways moevement. Properly torqued and inspected regularly , it should be fine though.Imean we are talking about grade 10 hardware(which is what I will use) I will post some pics up later, as I will be finished fabricating them later today. Go to your local junkyard, and undo a front strut top from any legacy(preferably while standing on the other side of the car so you do not get hit with strut pieces and such)then do the same for the rear.(once again not standing in front of it,I just do it from the inside of the car.) Then you have your own templates.Obviously get your rear templates from the same knid of car you have acquired struts from, as these are the ones that changed over the years.I used a bandsaw with wood blade,and a spade bit in my drill press. I had previously made some metal strut blocks, but the rears weere not lined up right due to hurrying at school.SoI will def. be using the plastic for the rear, but MAY use them for the front too... I am not an engineer, but I have rednecked the hell out of some thingds, and am not worried in the least that this plastic will break.I used UHMW as it is used in alot of skidplate applications for rock racing rigs.I have seen BIG rigs come down hard on 1/2" skidplates and do no damage.So I doubt very highly that using them as spacer blocks will end up with disaster(provided the fab is done properly.straight up and down holes.etc) cheers You do realize that ifn you do strut spacers this big, you will almost surely need to add subframe blocks frot he front and rear subframes too , right?

Ok, so if you want to have responsible fun.Go find a local offroad club that is involved in keeping your trails and mudholes open instead of being an irresponsible car owner.(not saying you are, but if you do not take these actions you are) Then get involved.prettty simple.Or go drive some forest serrvice roads. Your brat in it's current state is not designed for what you probably see in your mind as a mudhole. It will get stuck, and when it does you better hope your not alone.These are all bad rump roast little cars, but I would hate to see another ruined from inadequate preperation. So, no, I will not bug out.An on going problem with our trails and areas is that people that are not prepared going out and geting stuck.Eventually usually taking up resources(IE.Fire,Police) that are needed elsewhere. The days of going out and having fun whereever you want are over. The faster you realize that the better for the community. Be pissed all you want.The voice of reason is always hard to hear. cheers, or not

Just take care of the ************in land so you don't give others a bad name. And I'll raise hell wherever the ************ I want.Especially if it has to do with the "right" thing.And keeping one of my favorite sports legal. The point is KNOW WHERE YOU ARE WHEELING....AND MAKE SURE YuO ARE NOT BREAKING THE LAW.POSTED OR NOT.IT MAY BE ABOUT FUN, BUT IT IS ABOUT EVERYONES FUN.NOT JUST YOURS.So don't get your panties in a wad sweetheart. If it is not a legal wheeling area , it is bad press.enuff said.*********************.......