monstaru

i would be willing to bet that most of the folks are from the NW here in the US.so maybe seasttle is the best way to go........cheers, brian

don't take me wrong here...... i do not see any reason to disbelieve the tranny chart you posted.it was searched out and posted by a reputable member.cheers, brian

if you want to listen to them, go ahead.then why did yo9u post questions here? PHYSICALLY GET UNDER YOUR CAR AND CHECK ************ OUT............cheers, brian

ok, that is basically 3ftx3ftx3ft........have you seen how many gearboxes you can fit in that space?cheers, brian

well?

welcome thomas....what parts of NZ are you from?cheers, brian

1m3 , 1.5m3? we are not on the metric system.....what does this mean?is that 1mx3m?like 1 meter by 3 meters?and 1.5 meters by 3 meters? just making sure, as we need to know what size of container would be coming....signed, the dumb american.....cheers, brian:lol:

ditch the swaybar.......it is not that much different. besides the fact that only one of those trans is on this side of the ocean(so far)........most of the folks here are running ea82 d/r trannies.so i really do not know if anyone has run into this.....cheers, brian

i find a couple of pieces of 2x6 with some small 2x4's nailed to the backside of them making a sort of ramp works well, if you encounter mud.....that you can power through......fallen branches,sticks,rocks, are all out there.....stripped willow, or other barks can be good fro tying things together to lay under the tires.....etc....cheers, brian

thats awesome...!congrats, daddy and mommy...............cheers, brian

thats awesome, lets see some mounts!cheers, rbain

ok, so to get this straight......after freight, they are coming in at 300us apiece?cheers, brian

you can get rims from just about any six lug vehicle except, dodge, and ford.......they will not fit.. and then you need to deal with backspacing......toyota stock steels are an easy find......cheers, brian

nice pics jesse.......cheers, brian

why don't you first check your tranny mounts........the bucking can be caused by those needing replacement.....which in turn could be causing your shifter to hit the tranny tunnel, and pop out....... the grinding is indicative of synchros.....but one thing at a time...... did you ever have service done to it?is it low on fluid, etc......cheers, brian

pulling to the right seems like a brake issue or alignment..... i have always had the wheel hop unless i was running new struts and new rear shocks..............even then,you still get the "rise" for sure............ i bet if you get some new rears it wil give a little less.....cheers, rbian

yeah, where the hell were you?cheers, brian

if you don't hurry.i'm gonna biuy it for MY self:)...................cheers, brian

would the ecu be different?sometime ago i remember having to do like 30 or so key starts to reset everything...................cheers, brian

its ok sugar, don't get your panties in a wad. cheers, or not, brian

good thing i did not already have the windows out,or turn down plans that were proposed to be here.........:rolleyes:for ************s sake man..........

but yes, you are a moron.....:banana::banana:nothin..cheers, brian

you can mount them backwards...........damn that sucks mark.cheers, brian

ok, so since i put the wagon back together.... i have had a battery drain. today, i finally got around to checking for shorts. i kept the positive cable on the battery.i had the negative off.going through the fuses, one by one, i would touch the negative to the post to see if there was a slight spark. all fuses sparked,so that method will not work for me. should i go through every single plug going to a device and do the same thing? i have a multimeter that i do not know how to use besides the basic functions.meaning that , an electrical engineer i am not.but i can follow directions! oh, i also eliminated everything new that i had put on the car during the process,so it is not something that i modified or added. i do have a wiring diagram, so i can chase things down with the proper coloration on the wires. 83 wagon........cheers, brian

first off,i am a cement finisher by trade. if you want to install a lift,you can do deepened areas for the posts to stand upon.those "pits" will need to be rebarred into the rest of the slab with a mounting plate at floor grade. i would also suggest that you realize how high a lift is going to stand with a car on it.this adds to the height of the garage as well.which means more money. if you went into a full 10 inch slab, you would also need to do a double mat of rebar for proper weight dispersion.otherwise the rebar is basically a moot point. the last shop we did with considerations for a lift was done as i described above.the pits he dug were about 24" deep, rebar was installed and tied to the plates.the plates had large studs on the underside to attach the rebar to.the plates also had bolts welded through drilled holes from the underside. this guy had already ordered his lift and knew the mounting dimensions. hope any of this helps.if you have any specific questions, feel free to pm me. cheers, brian