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Woops, that's what happens when we assume!

You'll have to be careful between the 2wd and 4wd model shocks. I believe the fronts are the same, but the (rear) 2wd shocks are taller due to a different mounting location. The link you listed is for an extra? shock/dampener. Not what you are looking for. As I have read that those type of add-on absorbers do nothing. KYB's on Rockauto are a decent price. You'll be able to find the correct part numbers if you search around on the board. Edit: You'll want to search for "strut" rather than "shocks" to get what you are looking for. 1988 GL on Rockauto seemed to provide the most options.

Nico has some JDM corner lights for sale. For the hood release cable, what are you trying to do? Route it back through the stock location or find another way in?

It will be under the dash, behind the fuse panel, and somewhere between there and the steering column. I think all the ea82 relays are in a holder up behind the fuse panel. Hope that helps. If you do end up needing a new pump, I've got one from my car, just did an ej swap so I won't be needing it.

oh, not sure if there's a parts manual there, just service manual..

Here ya go! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1212255

No, I pulled the whole rail off a legacy with an automatic, and swapped the whole setup in. It didn't change anything though so I switched back to the stock rail I had on before. I suppose it's worth taking the rails back off and actually pulling the injectors to see if the o-rings are worn. The smoke has subsided for the most part. Shows up when driving it before it's warmed up. Not as thick as before. I was also thinking she might be in need of a valve job, perhaps some oil is getting into the mix in the combustion chamber? Only other big issue I have still is the lofting RPMS. Now that the timing belt is back in place, it idles at 1500 again, and sometimes lofts to 2000+ at stoplights. Also, sometimes when I start it the idle shoots up to 3000 and stays there for a while. Not particularly cold out either, so not sure what the deal is. I sure am glad I got this engine for next to nothing... ha One final symptom is that whenever I go to fill up my tank, there is an immense amount of pressure in the fuel tank when I take the cap off. Related?

There is a build thread on here somewhere for this car, should give you a bit more insight on what it's all about.

Yeah that's a good call. The tensioner could be on its way out. Also the flat face on the head of the tensioner was facing the wrong way. Not sure if that would cause any issues.

Oh, I'll also add, I swapped my old injectors back in after there was no change in the running of the engine. Then did the timing belt. So it occurred to me I should maybe try to swap the injectors one more time. Or take it for a spirited drive and see if she recovers from driving it with the timing off? ha.. I suppose I'll do the compression check tomorrow just to be thorough?

I was going to, but upon seeing the timing belt being almost new, I decided to skip that step. It was off by about two teeth, I wanna say the DS cam skipped? But I didn't look that close, just wanted to get it redone. The pulleys look great, and the belt still looked great. I thought about doing the WP and the OP too, but not really wanting to dig in that far today. So I got it all back together, it runs great. Only problem is that there's now constant smoke coming out of the exhaust. Oh and the crazy light show is back on the ecu LED. Vids below:

Well I swapped in some grey top injectors from a 90 leggy AT, no change, I also swapped the coil pack, just for kicks. No change there either. I went down to the local shop and asked one of the guys there what he thought, and with the circumstances I described he said I should check out the timing. Looks to me like it's off but I've got to double-check to make sure I know what I'm lookin at here(timing marks, etc..)

Black top injectors. Do I have to stick with the black top injectors or can I use red if I have some available at the J/Y? Edit: just read through this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113733-different-injectors-does-it-matter/page-2, will probably just go the red top route.

Thanks Levi, I was suspecting the injectors as well, I'll be digging into it this weekend hopefully. I'll look into the IAC too.

I started the car for a few minutes yesterday to do just that, and there wasn't a single blink from the LED

Alright, compression test on the list. Thanks for the suggestion. I actually haven't hooked up the CEL yet. When I first got it running I was checking the led codes from the ecu itself, I originally had a knock sensor code, and an iacv code. The knock sensor I replaced, and the other code disappeared. I looked at the ecu led last week and it was blinking in very erratic patterns, like I couldn't distinguish anything from what it was showing me. Shoulda taken a video of it.

Hey folks, haven't been on here in a while cause everything with the car has been great! But an issue has popped up recently that I can't figure out. So from the top, here's what's going on: A couple weeks ago, I noticed that I had whitish/blueish smoke coming out of the exhaust when the engine was cold. It would also appear under hard acceleration. The smoke isn't milky like coolant, but more like rich fuel, or maybe oil? My idle has been weird as well, it usually idles at 1500, and after an hour or so of driving, it would go up to 2-2.5K and fluctuate a few hundred rpm at idle. The other day I was really getting on it and shifting at about 4500, and something happened. When I arrived at my destination, the idle went down to about 900, and it stayed there, idling just like it should. But it seemed a bit rough. I noticed some knocking? when it first entered into this normal idle stage. I drove 8 miles home, and the engine seemed very hesitant, like all the power was gone. A few hours after I was home I went to go leave and it wouldn't start. I thought perhaps it was flooded. So I let it sit, and charged the battery. After charging the battery and cranking many many times, it finally started with some coaxing of the gas pedal, but it runs so rough. Seems like it's missing on one cylinder. A huge cloud of smoke came out when it first fired up. And now if I start it, there is a constant amount of smoke in the exhaust, nothing like the cloud before though. I popped the spark plugs out and cyl #1 was pretty fouled, all black and a bit of gunk was on the tip of the threads, also reeked like fuel. Replaced those and fired it up to see if there was any change, there wasn't. The wires are pretty old I think, may be the original stock wires. I'll try those next, but I have a feeling it's something else, like fuel related, or pcv, or ??? I'm kind of at a loss here and thought I'd reach out for some ideas from the wise folks on the board. Thanks ahead of time!

Make sure it actually IS an xt6 clutch, and I believe you got it backwards, you would want to grind it down, to .816 I think, for more clamping force. I just put an ej22 in my wagon and ground the flywheel and used a standard 4wd ea82 clutch, got about 3000 miles on it and no issues.

Tom, is that radiator fan from an EJ as well? Or is it stock? If you need an EJ fan, or two, I've got mine left from my swap.

Do you have the transmission jacked up at all?

When installed correctly, the top of your struts will be closer to the center of the car.

Got my exhaust done today. 2" from the cat back, and I think it's a standard ol muffler, I requested high-flow, but opted for whichever was cheaper(they didn't tell me) The thing is silent now! Pretty crazy compared to running with no exhaust. Now I can hear all the body/suspension noise again :/ Got my front and rear u-joints on the driveshaft replaced as well. This thing is almost a brand new car! Gotta replace the PS outer tie rod end at some point, as well as take of the IACV and throttle body and get those cleaned out. Hopefully that helps with my erratic idle.

No I didn't. I grabbed the brake, and clutch switch from the legacy pedals, but I never hooked them up. I have had no issues concerning the neutral switch, so I'm leaving it for now. I didn't touch the vss either. Not even sure how to do that on our cars, and haven't done the research. Again, no issues noticed there, so I said F it. I'm really enjoying it. I haven't beat on her at all yet, I'm just so glad to have a running car again that I've been kinda babying it. I sure do like shifting around 4-4.5K though! Still gotta get the exhaust done, waiting on a local shop to give me a quote. I guess they're having a hard time coming up with the necessary flanges??

Personally, I just ran a new wire from the fuel pump to the black/red coming out of the fuel pump relay. I didn't want to mess with trying to find the existing fuel pump wire under the dash. I just ran it under the back seat, under the carpet and under the door trim. Not the cleanest way to do it, but it works..

If you get the fuel pump wires hooked up and the pump still doesn't work, try grounding the fuel pump to the body near the pump. Mine wasn't grounding properly through the harness, but once I grounded it locally it fired right up.