Frank B

Now that you mention it, I do remember that seat height adjustment on the gl-10. I'll look for one. I was going to replace the relay under the passenger seat while I had the carpet out. I took the seats and carpet out to clean them with our carpet cleaner, much easier than doing it in the car. But, I couldn't find the four spade relay at any parts store in town. After I put everything back into the car, I found one in my tool box!! I'll take car of it later, when I feel like pulling the seat back up. GCK axles are on Amazon for $48-$51 free shipping , I can't buy a worn out axle for that at these local yards!

I guess this would help huh?? I guess the red/yellow is the ground. White is for battery voltage, red/white ?????

Maybe these could be imported like the late model VW bugs and buses were, before they quit making them in South America. They were completly dismantled there, shipped here in pieces, put back together here, and titled as a kit car.

I burned up a fusible link today, and since my fiancee was heading into town, I asked her to swing by Autozone and pick one up, since that was the only place open and I need my car tomorrow. So I right down what I need, red fusible link .085 for an import. Told her what it looked like too. So she calls me a few minutes later to say that they had no idea what she was talking about. No idea what a fusible link was!!! So I told her to look by the fuses and read the packages lookinf for a red fusible link. She said she found it, comes home later with this; It's a fusible link allright, but for the newer cars. It fits right into the slot like it was made for it, my headlights now work, but will it do it's job and burn up the same as the red wire one? It says 50A on it, but I didn't think that fusible links were "measured" in amps like a fuse. What do you think? If this is fine I'll replace the others the same way.

I stole these, I mean, got a good deal on these off of Ebay months ago but I couldn't put them on my Hatch. The Lights would be too good for it! So I kept them thinking(knowing) I'd have another EA82 car one day. These are for the 80's EA82 cars, made to just plug and play. Factory harness, switch, and directions. You splice into three wires in the harness behind the fuse box, and the directions show that there are plugs in the bumper to pop out to mount the lights, the hole is in the dash for the switch, you just have to pop the cover off. But, my 92 loyale was a bit different, no plugs in the bumper so I drilled some holes. The wires to splice into were the same color just in different connectors. And the hole for the switch would need to be drilled out. Anyway, got them on, wired up, had the switch in my hand to try them out before I drilled the dash for it, and they came right on, looked great. But the switch was broken and it wouldn't pop out and turn off. I thought I could open it up and fix it, but it broke even more. So I tried to use a toggle. They turned on with the toggle, but blew a fuse when I turned them off. So I removed the supplied harness and made up my own, as I have many times before, with a relay amd a toggle supplting 12v to the relay to open it. But I burned up a fusible link that time. So what's going on here? Does the factory switch just supply a ground? Like the radiator fan switch? I was about to wire it back up with all the power leads to the battery, and use the toggle to ground the system, but I decided to consult the knowledge base here first. Maybe I'll try to find a switch, it looks like the one for the cyclops center light.

Thanks, I appreciate all that. The previous owner had the t-belts and front seals replaced last year at the tune of $700 !!!! So I really have no desire to do that job just yet. But i hope they replaced the tensioners too. I may peak in there at some point but all seems well. If the TOD didn't go away, I was going to tear it down and replace the oil pump and take a look at the rest but Rislone took care of the tick. If I end up doing the head gaskets, I'll replace the water pump, oil pump, clutch, and rear main because I'll pull the engine out this time. I'm getting too old to bend over fenders!

I replaced the oil pan gasket yesterday, as well as the O2 sensor and exhaust gaskets while the y-pipe was down. O2 didn't look all that old, but I did it anyway. Oil pan gasket was hard as a rock, as expected, and hopefully was the last of the oil leaks. I did find that I have one stripped exhasut stud and two torn cv boots. The boots are torn right where they clamp to the axle shaft. They look like replacement axles, not stock Subaru. I guess I know what I'll be doing on my next day off.... I drove it to work this past week and what a step up from an old Hatch! I forgot what it was like to accelerate uphill !!!! I just keep hitting my head on the way out, I may look into lowering the seat or removing some of the seat foam.

If you have to turn one down to make it thinner, put it on an extension, put that in a variable speed drill, and hold a piece of emory cloth on the socket as you spin it. I had to do that to get a spark plug socket to fit on an EA82 once.

What caught my interest was the inbaord brakes. Does that mean they were up on the tranny output shafts? I often thought about doing that on all 4 on an AWD when I had my GL-10, but I don't have the shop or $$$ to support such a project.

That white smoke could also be the condensation from the heating exhaust pipe in a high humidity environment. If it does this only in the morning or night or after a rain etc, then I wouldn't worry about it. If it does this every single time you run it, in hot summer weather and it's sticky and smells sweet like coolant, then worry. But yes, get a radiator, thick core(two row) is you can. Replace the thermostat anyway, change coolant.

The oil pressure was high on my hatch since I bought it, I just thought it had a good pump on it and I felt pretty good about it. Turned out the sending unit was bad......... Replace that and see what it does, unless you don't want to know just how low it really is.

Was this ever a US model? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Subaru-G-for-less-than-2000-large-magazine-ad_W0QQitemZ220247987322QQihZ012QQcategoryZ119140QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The fuel filter will be in the engine compartment on the drivers side above the brake booster. It's a metal can.

I've never had or worked on a Justy, but from what I've read here on the board, I believe it is all Subaru. Some front wheel drive cars have shared mounts for the engine and tranny, so at least, you may have to put a jack under the tranny to hold it up while you remove the engine. Also, keep in mind that you'll have to move the engine to the side to split it from the tranny, is there enough room for that? it would be a good time to replace the clutch. Again, I've never had a hand on a justy so I'm just talkin' here. I would say get the used engine, and re-seal/gasket it before installing it. Then afterwards tear into the original to see what the problem is.

I would change the fuel filter next, and use a good fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron with the next fill up. Check your ignition timing too. Change the PCV valve, and clean up the hoses from the valve covers to the PCV. They'll get gunked up with oil residue. Check for vacuum leaks by carefully spraying carb cleaner on and around them, if the idle speed changes, you found the leak. Also, change the oxygen sensor. When you get the new fuel filter, blow through the inlet, then after you get the old one off and drained, blow through it to see if there is a difference in how easy, or hard, it is to blow through. It's a good indication to how glogged it is. Good luck, and welcome to the board.

I recently bought this 92 Loyale from board member Spockva, to replace my 89 Hatch that I lost interest in, but to also give myself a boost in spirit by having something new to play with. Anyway, this car has been a treat! It's the newest Subaru I've owned! As in year model. And also the first SPFI. It's 2wd with a 5-speed, cold A/C which is real nice since I haven't had a car with working A/C in years, very little rust, and so far, easy to fix. Everything has been working out great. The reason Paul was selling it was because of clutch issues, as in it wouldn't release to allow shifting. He has spent a lot of money having new timing belts and seals installed last year and didn't want spend more on a clutch, can't blame him at all. The engine, undercarriage, and exhaust were covered in oil, it was suffering from a serious case of the TOD, and the power windows are slow, and that's about it really. I noticed on the drive home with it that it could use a tune up and a bath but there were no handling issues, brakes are great, no clicking CVs, and everything seems to work. New plugs, wires, oil change, tranny oil change, fuel filter, air filter, valve cover gaskets, cleaned the PCV system, de-geased the engine and tranny, new wiper blades, flushed the coolant, new thermostat, cleaned the interior, washed the exterior, put the wheels and snow tires from my Hatch on it, and it's good to go, to work that is. I'll be putting it in service tomorrow to get me to work everyday! The clutch issue was just a stretched NAPA clutch cable, I replaced it with an OEM one and so far it's working great. The TOD was cured by a quart of Rislone in the oil with the oil change, while driving my fiancee around town to yard sales today, it stopped ticking. I also put a quart in the tranny. I'm trying Bosch Super Plus spark plugs this time, and Beck Arnley Blue Thunder plug wires(Ebay bargain). The valve cover gaskets were the cause of the oil everywhere, typical hard cracked rubber from age. I cleaned up the grounds while I was tinkering too. While cruising around today, it became very apparent that the 185 snow tires were not a good choice, they were rubbing and scraping in the rear with every bump and hard turn. But I just happen to have a set of rear struts off of a 2wd Loyale wagon in my shed. I scored them for $20 at a local junkyard a few years ago. They're aftermarket but I didn't see a brand on them. I do know that they are near new, blue in color, and the springs were a larger diameter than the ones on this car. I put them on it and the rear end sits up an inch higher and it's much stiffer. I'm glad I held on to them now! I'll get a new O2 sensor in it next week, and clean up the window tracks, and guides as well. I want to add that Paul (Spockva) was very honest about this car, he told me, or showed me everything wrong with it, everything he had repaired on it since he had it, he even admitted to being a retired Coastie!! Just kidding Paul, that's something to be proud of of course. He even mailed me a few repair manuals he had, and a few oil fliters! Great guy all around. My Hatch is for sale here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89635

If it wasn't for this message board, I wouldn't know squat about Subaru's!! It's fed this addiction of mine. Without this board I'd still be driving a Dodge So give the kid a chance will ya', he's in the right place asking the right questions to the right people. If he decides the car isn't right for him, maybe he'll post it for sale on this board. Maybe he'll realize he's got a knack for this and go nuts with the car. I think someone that lives near him needs to help him out.

Well the turbo is the dual port as well as the MPFI, the non turbo would be SPFI and carb. The first number is for the carb, and spfi, the single port heads. This will also work on the EA81. The second has to be the dual port intake and heads. Turbo and MPFI. The third, I have no idea.

We're not burning all the fuel in the combustion chamber, that's why we have ASVs, and catalytic converters, to complete the burning process. Like any mass produced item, it's made just well enough to get the job done, not to do the best job. Also, auto makers aren't going to spend the money to make a part to exacting standards when they're making millions of them, not for a standard car anyway. That's why sports cars cost more. Look at your plugs, there are manufacturing flaws like the ground electrode not aligned properly, sharp areas of metal on the ground that can change the sparks(arcs) behavior, etc, etc. There's a reason the most performance engine builders blueprint the engine first, sanding away casting flaws, opening up ports to the correct, specified size. It's all to remove the discrepancies of mass production. I don't beleive that a capacitor in a spark plug is going to do anything what so ever. As mentioned earlier, it's still using the same energy. A stronger coil, say 45,000v over the stock 35,000v and a quality cap and rotor set, plug wires that can handle the extra energy and a well made set of plugs gapped correctly is all you really need. You gain more performance from reducing the amount of misfires in the cylinder than anything else. With the higher voltage, the spark(arc) isn't just hotter, it can jump the gap easier reducing the amount of misfires in the engine. Remember that the plug "fires" 20-50 times a second!!!! Here's some good information to read. http://www.supertruckusa.com/products/55114_106.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110020.htm

I did on my chainsaw plug, just to practice, and I side gapped my lawn tractor plug. I have no idea if the fuel consumption or power was effected, but each one started easier. I had one of those E3 (I think) Plugs in the saw, that helped it run better. There are a lot of gains to be made with the plugs, or at least the ignition system but you have to keep it simple. Multi ground plugs are mostly a gimmick but the idea is a good one. Platinum plugs are designed to last longer, not provide a hotter spark. You gain by exposing the spark (arc) to the compressed fuel. you can do this by modifiing the plug, filing back the ground electrode, or drilling a hole in it, indexing the plugs, or using a side grounding plug like a marine or racing plug. And of course a bit higher voltage coil. Most car and motorcycle coils are just strong enough to get the job done. The ones on my bike were 15000V, I replaced them with 35,000v coils and I had to re-jet the carbs! Old timers used to file the ground electrode to a point, and file the edges sharp to focus the arc, but it wore down fast. I believe that's why NGK, DENSO, and BOSCH use the U-groove. It then has four edges for the electrons to gather...I think that's right, I just woke up so I'm a bit foggy right now.

It could be bad gas, or a slightly open EGR. One of the vacuum solenoids leaking, PCV, old O2 sensor(if it has one), Idle mixture screw out of adjustment, timing, worn plug gap, etc, etc.

Or you can try this, http://www.brightgreen.us/spark.htm A bit more affordable.

Is that the four spade relay? If so, it will replace the headlight relays at a fraction of the cost, and it's a higher amp relay too. I used two in an 86 hatch, worked great.

If you end up pulling the engine, it's a good time to replace the oil pan gasket too. Clean up the pick-up screen while the pans off too. Oh, and don't rule out the radiator, it could have a small leak and the heat is evaporating the coolant before it drips on the ground. Look for stains. I just replaced a rad in our chevy sedan and this was the case. The only way I found the crack was by squeezing the upper hose which pushed the coolant out. It only leaked when it was hot.

Or a cracked head, which will provide the same signs of a head gasket failure but with super heated exhaust air bubbles in the coolant. Does the cooling system build up a lot of pressure after just a few minutes of idling? I'm not sure if that's a sure sign of head cracks but one that I had with a cracked head would build crazy pressure, but the Loyale I just bought does this too, and there are no signs of problems otherwise??? The exhaust in the coolant will super heat it so the radiator can't cope with it, so it will overheat fast and often. Does yours run hot? Unless you have all the air out of the coolant system, and the rad filled to the top, you'll get air out of the vent hose. There will or should be some space for expansion. As the coolant comes up to temp, it will push out that air, and some coolant into the overflow tank, as it cools it's supposed to draw it back in. So it may do this every time, all the time. Does it lose coolant, or have you not driven it much? Are the plugs wet and stink of coolant? Does the exhaust smell like coolant? It may since the old engine was blown of course.