Frank B

Thanks The funny thing is that there is no side play in the shaft! Oh well.

On my 89 Hatch EA81, the distributor vibrates and makes an audible wirring sound on cold mornings. It only happens when the engine is stone cold, and of course the tach dances around when this happens. It stops after a few minutes too. I have a good used one coming so I may not worry about it at all, but I thought about oiling it with some nice low-temp thin oil to help it out. I reckon the bushings and shaft are either gunked up with old oil and that is sticky when cold, or the bushings and/or shaft is worn and the play is making it grab and chatter when it turns. Is there a way to get oil in there? to the shaft and bushings? Either way, I'll probably just toss it in the back for a spare when I get the other one.

If you can get to the back side of the metal, you can tack weld some sheet metal pieces to cover the hole, then bondo on the outside. Or I guess you can use JB Weld to keep the sheet metal in place too. Just 1 or 2 inch squares of metal.

I doubt they will pull and ship anything. It's a nice pick and pull type yard. You pay $1.00 to get in, you grab a wheelbarrow, throw your tools in it, and go shopping. There's a posted price list on the wall as you enter the yard too. Thier partner, Circle Auto Parts south of richmond is bigger, but I only found three older subaru's, and they were picked clean.

Also, air your tires up to 40 psi, and clean out your pcv system. I just did that and I picked up 3 more mpg and I was still driving like a knob! Oh, and the pcv hose was completly clogged!

When you adjust the slack on your throttle cable, check for frayed ends. If it's that stretched, it could also be frayed. You do want a little slack in it, but not much. It's also best to do it after you've ran the engine so the cable itself is up to temp. I've adjusted them cold before just to have them tighten up after the engine heats up. If you adjust all the slack out and there's still too much, you can bend the cable bracket a bit too. It may be best just to replace it. NAPA shows one for $8 or $9, I'm sure they would have to order it............

I just replaced mine and the new one was backwards too compared to the old one. I had to tug and bend the lines and the little bracket to get it to work. It may be easier to use a longer fuel hose on both or either barb so they reach. You do want the supply line for the carb on the barb with the arrow, the one next to it is from the tank. The one on the top, or end is the vapor line.

I was at Chesterfield Auto Parts today and found a white non turbo XT 2wd with the complete spyder intake on the engine. I didn't get it, I don't need it, but you may be able to get it for around $20. The price sheet said aluminum intakes where $15 but I'm not sure how they would price it with all the sensors and TB on it. The engine is scrap but it had a decent set of chrome steel wheels on it. CAP 5111 Old Midlothian Tpke Richmond VA They really didn't have much there other than that. They only had three older Subaru's, all 2wd and pretty much picked clean. They crush after thirty days too.

That is without a doubt a sticking thermostat. Replace it before you toast your engine. I had the same exact problem like 20 times in a dozen or more vehicles, even with new t-stats! The quality of thermostats is crap anymore.

When the springs flex, they get longer so to speak. When that happens your shackle takes up that movement so the springs can do their job. When the shackles are on the front, when the spring flexes and gets longer, your wheel base increases. As it does your handling suffers, it will feel very unstable out on the open road, but you won't notice it at all on the trail. If you weld the top of the front shackles to the "frame" and add a brace or web support, you can then add some shorter shacles on the rear of the springs. Of course this will add lift so you would have to increase the height in the rear to match. Good job though, that thing is a beast!!!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-DGV-Carb-Hat-and-Intake-Hose_W0QQitemZ170068244712QQihZ007QQcategoryZ34198QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem found this on the bay.

So what years 240 calipers work?

Great job on the creativity, the only thing I could see for an improvement would be to use the aluminum dryer vent hose to reflect the engine bay heat from the incoming air. Also, does it clear the hood??

Your PVC pipe with the flange, looks a lot like the piece my toilet sits on !! Good job.

It tells me everything. It tells me that either the engine or valve covers in my hatch are not the original, and I don't like that. Or somebody has changed the valve covers or removed the stickers, which makes me wonder why. Or they just fell off. In any case it tells me that I need to remove my covers to find out for sure what I have. It needs new gaskets anyway:grin: . Thanks

I know how to remove the covers and check, I just don't feel like it right now. Did all the hydro motors have the stickers from the factory?

That's awesome. I had the same thing in mind, but using an Autolite 2100 or 2150. But I don't even have an EJ22 yet! Good job.

Did all the EA81 hydro lifter engines have the gold stickers on the valve covers? My 89 doesn't have the stickers.

Don't believe that the part number on the box is the right one for what's inside either. If possible, bring your old one with you. If you can't, get the best measurements you can, count the splines, make sure it comes with a new nut, cotter pin, and roll pin since you really should replace all of them with a new axle. Also check the threads on the axle, if they are all chewed up, dinged and dented your nut will not stay on! A good way to check is to thread the nut on then try to wiggle it. If it is not tight on the threads, do not use it. Check the boots, check the boot clamps. I've bought axles that had missing boot clamps!

I was a bit off on what I posted earlier. What I was thinking of was the early or Subaru racing dual carb engines. They had a larger intake port in the head but it still was a siamese port for the two cylinders. It wasn't round or oval, it was more like an 8 shape. Said to have an insane cam and compression numbers to make crazy power(for an EA81). Short of buying some SUB4 heads with the matching intake, I'd say your out of luck.

Years ago, on the old board, someone posted pics and info about this, Yes they are rare, but they did exist. I believe the true, initial dual carb engines were dual port. That is where the aviation guys got the inspiration to make those trick dual port heads. I remember reading about it on an aviation site years ago. A guy had one, it was dual port, and it was dual carb, and he was not living in the USA. Most of his site was dedicated to talking about replicating it. Also, if I remember correctly, Subaru ran the dual port EA81 in the early rally cars. Most likely a Japan only item that none of us will ever be able to see in person. I'll try to find that stuff, but that was two or three PC's ago so I doubt I have it!

You need a Dremel!

Holy poop thats wicked!! The next mod is a skid plate, right??

I suspect that when you get to the rear drums, you'll find that they are out of adjustment. That and when your pads wear down, that space is taken up by fluid in the caliper. Fluid that was in the reservoir, thats' why it's there. You may have been low on brake fluid to begin with, and you ended up with not enough in the master cylinder for it to work properly. Once you turned the caliper pistons back, that fluid was pushed back into the MC, and it effectively bleed out the system too. But you should still bleed it out to replace that old nasty brake fluid! That and adjust and grease the rear. And good job!

HOLY CRAP! What did you use, a 110V bubble gum machine!!! You better put a grinder on that! I say this because I HAVE done worse ...............