Frank B

I am not sure what it's function is, but I have heard it refered to as the Idle Switch. Not all TPS's have them. My 89 gl-10 turbo has it.

Yesterday my lady took the kids to see Open Season, some new kids movie. When she came back she told me the heat didn't work. A fuse I figure, but nope. I took the blower motor off and even though it was getting voltage, it didn't spin. After taking it apart I noticed that there was a ton of black soot covering everything inside. Turns out the brushes were gone!! I mean gone! Nothing left but a little copper wire. I tore into an Isuzu Rodeo parts vehicle I have but the motor was different, even though it too was a Denso product. I thought I would just use the brushes, but they broke during the removal. After digging around, the only other electrical motor I could find that was "junk" was in a Hoover vacuum cleaner that I kept forgetting to take to the dump. The brushes in it were twice the length and width, but with a hacksaw and file on my leatherman tool I got them down to size. I solered the wires on the terminals in the blower moter and installed it. It spun up great! But wouldn't move air, After removing the blower assembly again, I realized that somehow I got the wires mixed up and it was spinning backwards! Instead of tearing it down again, I just cut and switched the wires in the harness to the plug . Parts is parts!!!

That's right! The boiling point is higher at higher pressures. say 13 lbs compared to 9 lbs.

Thanks, but I just bought one from Alex GL-10 for $30.00 shipped.

Try replacing the thermostat with a new one, this time leave the air vent pin alone. Is the electric fan spinning in the correct direction? Why did you replace the radiator? Was it a one row or two row that was in it, and what is in it now? I had plenty of overheating problems with my 89 turbo untill I replaced the radiator with a 2 row unit. Also, what's your coolant mix, all antifreeze or 50/50 water/antifreeze? I know your in the great north but water transfers heat better than antifreeze. That's why 50/50 is recommended.

Take pictures and document every little thing PLEASE!!

Good luck on the "flutter", I have been chasing it on my 89 GL-10 for over a year! Some say coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, or TPS. I've had trouble codes for the disty, the MAF, O2 sensor and I've replaced all of them to no avail. Replaced the fuel pump with the ford unit which provides more pressure and twice the flow, added three more ground wires, for the engine, intake, and exhaust. Re sealed the turbo, replaced intake gaskets, timing belts, oil pump, water pump, pcv valve, complete tune up, etc, etc. And it is still there! Bad flutter or stumble under a load. Next step is replacing the ECM, injectors, and Knock sensor(if I can get one ) Every time I have replaced or fixed something, it ran great for like a week, then back to the same flutter.

Sounds like time for a rebuild and a good cleaning. Take some pics at each step if your uncertain about getting it back together. It's a good time to adjust the idle mixture too. I rebuilt the carb on an 86 hatch I had, and jumped from 22 mpg to 37 mpg!!!

If you don't find the source of the leak, clean the engine and car of oil, then check it often, the only way you will get it is if you pull the engine and replace every last seal and gasket..which may be needed anyway!Find the leak first.

I should have been more precise, it's an 89 gl-10 turbo. I know it has two, one is a sender for the guage in the thermostat housing. The sensor for the ECM is to the rear of the intake manifold, I've replaced both. My guage is intermittent. I think it's just the connection at the connector since I had to replace it but my car seems too run worse when the guage is not working. Maybe it's just a coincidence......

Is the coolant temp guage circuit isolated from the ECM for engine operations, or is it tied in?

DOes anyone know off hand what the knock sensor socket size is? I don't have one big enough and I want to get the right one without buying a big set. I had removed mine once, but I had the intake off and just used an adjustable wrench! Thanks

Sounds like the bulbs. They are easy to replace, but you may have to remove the barrery to get to the left one. Unscrew the retainer and pull the bulb out, disconnect the wire connector and replace the lamp. Just don't touch the glass portion of the bulb with your fingers or anything really. The oil from your skin or dirt from the other parts in the area will create a hot spot and burn up the lamp.

Fusible links, as suggested above, fuse, or relay. I believe the relays are under the dash near the fuse panel, but don't quote me on that.

Get a couple of good blades for your sawsall, and look for every non-load bearing bolt and cut off the excess threads that go past the nut or piece that it's bolted to. Put every one you cut into a bucket and weight it. I've seen 50 pounds come off of cars that way! But since you are removing a lot of pieces, those bolts and fasteners will be gone anyway.

Here's another one... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400

I bought a cheap, made in china, like $4 rubber strap wrench out of the bargain tool display at the local hardware store and it has held up fine to my abuse. From turning engines over by hand, holding water pump pulleys to get the fan off, oil filters, and my house water filter. I have had the craftsmans, and they are made well. I also cast a vote that you need a strap wrench to do the job easily. You'll discover the cam seals when you get the pulleys off. There will be two little bolts holding the seal carrier(?) on. You can take it off even with the cam and head on the engine, to replace the seal.

What's left of the grill is in the bed. He said the front end was perfect, untill he hit a deer.

Yes He's a good guy. Very honest. Everything that he said about the brat was true. He didn't try to hide anything. He belongs here on this board!

I know this isn't the right place to post this, but I feel that it deserves the attention. I had seen this on Craigslist and had to go look at it. It's a bit too rough for me, only because I have a real hard time leaving well enough alone and tend to dump a bunch of money in my vehicles on things it doesn't need. So, it needs a front hub, still drives in 4wd. It needs an exhaust since it only has a glasspack style muffler and straight pipe from the y pipe back. the gas tank has rust holes in it, but there is a plastic tank in the bed. it is single range 4wd, has AC and it comes with a cap too. It's in better shape than I expected it to be for a 79. All for $300. He's asking $300 because that's what the local junkyard offered him for it. So if it doesn't sell, or too many people try to low-ball him, it's going to be lost forever! It's just east of roanoke VA off of 460. http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/pts/185065314.html

Dualjet 210, Basically a Quadrajet primaries only carb.

Please say you have a pic of the manifold! If your only using the primaries, than it's safe to say that a Dualjet carb would work huh?

I have no idea what that fuse is for. AC maybe. I'll figure it out later. You are right on Turbone, you put the fuse IN to disable the AWD. This is what happens when you have 4 vehicles in your yard that your trying to get fixed at once

The beauty of the Quadrajet is that the secondaries will only open as much as the engine needs them too. I doubt the EA82 will open them up more than 25% even above redline with the rods flying out of the bottom!! And the small primaries probably aren't much bigger than a stock 2 barrel Hitachi. Easily tuned jets and metering rods for both the primaries and secondaries make it the best fuel delivery system other than FI...if they're tuned right. Let's see pics of the manifold and adapters you used. Good job:headbang:

There IS a fuse on the passenger side strut tower and after removing it, I swear I lost rear traction. I'll confirm just to ease my curiousity. I won't mess with it anymore after that. Thanks for the replies.