Frank B

There is no gasket between the head and cam case, just use a good quality grey silicone. Just don't slop it on. Just a thin layer will do. I believe the O ring is 10 mm x 2 mm. When they get flat and hard, they will bleed oil pressure and it is one of the causes for valve tick. Replace them.

89 GL-10 What would be the ideal spot to put the sender for an aftermarket coolant temp gauge? I thought of drilling and tapping the water pipe close to where the CTS is. But I was worried about the cast aluminum thickness and if it would accept threads well. What do you think? It's an electrical seder 1/4 NPT I think.

Are the rear differential bushings still available for an 89 GL-10? The rubber ones that go into the mounting points.

On these ford cars, it's in the tank, part of an assembly. I'll try to find out exactly what year and models and post the info.

I just cut the wires off of the old pump, and crimped on new ring terminals that came with the Ford pump. Red to positive, black to negative, and used the original connectors.

1989 GL-10 During my ongoing battle with the ever so common EA82T stumble, I decided to replace the fuel pump. I didn't want to pay $129.00 for a non-subaru replacement, so I looked into a Ford F series pickup transfer pump, the frame mounted one on many late 80's early 90's trucks. It provides 95PSI and 45 GPH but it was $119.00. I checked on the all mighty Ebay, and found a Ford pump for the Grand Marquis, Crown Victoria of the same years. It's a tank mounted pump but it is just like the Truck frame mounted booster pump, just smaller. Same specs too, 95PSI 45 GPH. I picked it up for $35.00 on Ebay. In stores its like $75.00 and up. Carter # P74025 AutoZone # E2182. The pump comes with two fittings, one 3/8" barb, and one 5/16" barb, but they are not 1/8" NPT as you may expect, they are metric. I believe it is 10-1.0 thread. It also comes with hose clamps, ring terminals to crimp onto the connector wires, and a strainer you will never use. It went into the stock bracket just fine with the rubber sleeve on the pump, I just had to keep it to one side so the output line wouldn't kink up. I used a foot of 5/16 fuel injection fuel line(high pressure) to make the turn. If I did it again, I would put a 90 degree fitting on the output side. I also had to trim about an inch off of the big line from the tank since the pump is shifted to one side. The car runs fine, no stumble on the first drive after the install, we'll see if it stays that way. Oh yeah, make sure you use a pair of vice grips to crimp the fuel lines so you won't get a bath, I actually remembered that this time:banana:

I was going to use an electric fan off of a 90 legacy I parted out, but it's actually the same size as the belt driven fan. I may go aftermarket and get a good one. Thanks for the reply.

Yes both fans work. The electric fan doesn't come on with the A/C compressor, but it does come on when the coolant temp comes up. So I guess the temp sensor/switch for it works.It's wierd how it happens. I have been driving the car for a few weeks now, under many different conditions and outside temps and the only time it runs at a higher temp is when I drive hard, and then it takes a while to get hot. It usually rides at the 3rd or 4th bar up on the digi guage. 15 seconds afterI turn on the A/C, it jumps up to the 5th bar, then steadily climbs. Sometimes it just will jump up to the highest green bar. I turn off the A/C, and the temp comes down. I Am going with the idea that the rad is too small. But I am also going to install an after market temp guage to see exactly what the temp is. Thanks for the input.

I believe you have to remove the cam case and cam for that repair.

Well, I have done both. And I do believe that the compression braking method slows the car faster. But I only use it when I'm going a bit too fast, or coming down a steep grade and don't want to heat the brakes up too much. I can't think of any form of racing that the drivers don't use compression braking, save drag racing, but those engines are in a totally different world! This is another ongoing debate that's just as bad as engine oil choices!

Well it is a single row, but I know that a lot of aftermarket radiators that replace a two row have been made with a single but wider row instead of two. That's why I measured it. This rad will keep the engine cool under "normal" driving, just not when the a/c is on, or when I drive like a knob! Thanks

89 GL-10 trubo 4wd 5-speed. I'm still working out the bugs on my $150 jewel(now closer to $500.00). And today I charged/converted the A/C. I bought the standard kit from wal-mart and had it done in no time at all. But, the engine will run hot when the A/C is on. I kind of expected that. It will run hot when blasting up a mountain, but not while just driving around normally. I have replaced the waterpump and thermostat and I'm running 50/50 coolant. I suspect the radiator, but it's been replaced. I noticed that it has new Subaru hoses, and it has provisions for the tranny cooler lines. I'm thinking that the previous owner cared enough to take it to a dealer for the repair, but I think they skimped on the radiator. I think they went with a cheap non-turbo universal fit. What I need to know is the thickness on a stock non-turbo car rad, and a heavy duty turbo rad. this one is like 7/8", maybe 1".

I have a complete radiator and fans assembly from a 90 legacy wagon I parted out. Does anyone know the cfm rating of the fans? I would like to upgrade the fans on my 89 gl-10. Thanks

Could anyone tell me what the cfm rating of the stock electric, and mechanical fan is? Just thought of upgradeing, but it would help to know where to start. Thanks

It will stumble upon acceleration, and miss while at a steady rpm. New fuel filter with tune up. MPFI

Ok, my $150 89 Gl-10 is tagged and being driven. But one problem still annoys me, the stumbling. I did a complete tune-up, when I changed the oil pump, I installed new timing belts(correctly), water pump, etc, etc. nothing has changed. the car sat a year before I got it, so I ran some cleaner in the fuel, and have been checking connectors for funk. Here's the thing, the lower the fuel level in the tank, the worse the stumble gets !? The only thing my tired brain can reckon is that the fuel pump is on it's way out. Any comments? Anybody have a good used one to sell?

That makes more sense. I can agree with that, and live with it. The guage rides at 3 or 4 bars up everywhere I drive even the interstate, except for one mountain road. It's not huge and most of the way I can stay in fifth gear and maintain 60mph. I'll just have to make the cooling system more effeicient. Thanks

350 DEGRESS !!! How is that "normal" or slightly overheating? Wow. Thanks for the info, I'll have to get an FSM.

89 GL-10 Digi-dash What increment does each green bar on the temp guage indicate? 10 degrees? 20 degrees? What temperature is it when it goes to red? Mine was on the highest green bar yesterday

Does anybody know Randy Lee in TN?????

I have had magnetic drain plugs on several vehicles, and it always has metal on it when I drain the oil. What I do now is I bought some rare earth magnets off of ebay, and just stuck one on the oil filter of all my vehicles. Change the filter, swap the magnet onto the new one. That way all the shavings go with the old filter. It does work, and no matter what oil you use you will always have metal in it. I noticed on my 89 GL-10 when I changed out the power steering fluid that there was a magnet inside the resevoir. If they didn't make a difference, Subaru wouldn't use it. I also stuck some on the outside of my whole house water filter, and was amazed when I seen how much rust and mineral deposits stuck to them! As far as the aluminum theory, the parts that are in contact with each other are not aluminum, like the rings and cylinder, the crankshaft, the cam, rockers, lifters, valves, etc. That's where you get the shavings, or microscopic particles really.

Dropping your tailgate WILL give you a few more MPG. I have done that for years. I pick up 3 mpg in my 87 Isuzu with the gate dropped. I would rebuild/clean the carb, adjust the float, and adjust the air/fuel mixture. My 86 hatch 4WD 4 speed, (since sold) was getting 37 mpg after doing just that.

Just looking for an update on installing one on an A/C car.......

A cooler thermostat would help, since it opens sooner. But what I mean is volume, not pressure, or temp.. I know that there is a limit, you get too much flow and the heat can't saturate into the water. I was just looking foe a bit more. Oh well. I guess I'll stick to the Water Wetter.

Higher octane fuel WILL increase milieage, and performance. I have done this little "experiment" several times with different vehicles. I have always gotten more milieage out of 93-94 octane gas, but the price difference really doesn't give you a savings over 87 octane. Just about any octane booster will cost you, and the price is usually the same or more than the 10 -20 cents per gallon price difference for 93-94 octane gas. So just buy the high octane gas. You will usually get more/better detergents too. I have seen were people run windshield washer fluid in a water injection system, mostly to use the mathanol in the washer fluid as an antifreeze, but you can find up to 50% methanol fluid and that's about the most you want to run.