Frank B

Well, I've seen in the hot rod small block chevy world that machining the housing .010" or so, adding some sort fo disc to the impeller, or just a different shaped impeller adds more flow. Just hoped somebody blazed this trail, already. I need to replace my pump and wanted to mod it a bit while I had the chance. Thanks for the reply.

Also, wouldn't this be easier on a turbo car? Since the fuel management and engine is built for boost?

So, does anyone have a pulley size / ratio chart to figure the psi settings?

Has anyone modified the waterpump on an EA82 to increase flow? If so, what did you do? Thanks

I had one some time ago. It was an 86 3 door coupe but in all respects, it WAS an RX. Turbo, DR 5 speed, LSD, larger sway bars, etc, etc. It raised a bit of an arguement here on the board too. Not too many people believed it was what it was. Anyway, it's long gone now. Randy in TN bought it as a rally car, raced it a bit, but now he hauls logs in it to build his log cabin! :cool:

Bump

A rebuild is simple, just use a repair manual for a guide. The kits only come with the accelerator pump, and needle/seat, and gaskets anyway. Just clean everything as good as you can, adjust the float properly, and take the carb off the car so you don't drop anything inside the engine! Now and again you can find a deal on Webers and Hitachi's on Ebay.

You still around Randy? I just looked thru my dads Subaru Drive magazine and just about fell over when I seen the picture of your blue Subi with a log hanging out of it. I'm glad to see you still have it. I often have regrets for ever selling the car, since I feared that it would have been wrecked while you raced it, but it's good to see it's still going strong!! Frank B Luray, VA

Where in Va?

I had a similar problem, and it was the headlight relays under the dash. If the rest checks out OK, replace those relays.

Oh yeah..... Check the headlight switch too. Are any other lamps not working?

If a fusable links goes, it will be burned in two. It is a fine, soft wire, in a soft insulation that will only handle a set amount of amperage before it heats up and actually burns up, breaking the circuit. If you do not have a voltmeter, try getting the car to an auto parts store to have the charging system tested. Some can test the alternator with it removed from the vehicle, that would be better. Take it off and bring it in for testing. If you have a voltmeter, connect it to the battery and start the car. It should stay between 13 and 15 volts even while revving the engine. Any more or less, replace the alternator. I payed $60.00 for the last one I bought, and it is well worth it. If everything checks out, double check all your fuses, then the headlight relays under the dash, below the steering wheel, I believe.

And what were your readings Skip? Any surprises?

I guess that also answers the question that higher fuel pressure will increase fuel flow to the cylinders. Which some of us know that...

I think the only real difference in the dfav and the dgev was that they have reverse rotation of the throttle shaft of each other, one is clockwise, the other is counter clock wise. Isn't the dfav the same as the holley 5200? I have had and still have a couple of them, and they are reverse rotation of the weber. it will work, you just have to come up with a different linkage or cable set up.

I found this site while looking for a carb adapter for my Ford 300cid. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/category.asp?catcode=33

I'll check that out, thanks.

Also, sometimes when I turn the ignition on, the digi-dash fuel guage doesn't work. If I turn the key off then on a few times, it then works fine. Is this a common problem with digi-dash cars??

It lives and breathes! I had a bit of a stumble/dead spot problem with the car. If driving at a steady speed, the power would drop off, then come back as if you were hitting a switch. Also had a problem with the turbo light not comming on, but I swapped out the boost sensor and waste gate control solenoid with some I picked up from Scrapdaddytatum and now the light comes on. I also found out why me differential lock was not engageing, the vacuum line was disconnected, easy enough. I swapped out the MAF with a spare I picked up, but didn't cure the stumble. So I removed and cleaned the TPS (throttle position sensor) and added a new ground wire between the engine and body. That fixed it! I don't know which action fixed it, but it's fixed. I took it for a quick ride to feel it out, and let me tell you, I haven't had a car scare me from going that fast and accelerating that quick in a loooong time! the engine was redlined BEFORE the power dropped off, awesome! I love this car! I think I have a total of $300 in it.

where did you get the pump?

Don't forget the relays under the dash.

You would want to get an alighnment after you raise it up.

Toyota Alloys right?

Some engines don't like longer intake runners, some do. The basic idea is that a carb spacer does two things, it increases the volume of provided air going to the cylinders, and allows for better fuel atomization. But too much of a spacer, or intake length will cause that fuel to re-atomize. Same for an SPFI engine. On a multi-port fuel injected vehicle, you get the increased volume of air effect only.

How many turns out did it end up at? Just curious