Frank B

Wow Good luck getting that shape out of lexan, at an affordable price.

Give me a few days, I have some things selling on Flea Bay, once I get the money, I'll send you payment. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZparanoid6

So are you saying I don't have what it takes to fool with MSDIS???? How much for one of the MAF and piping? Shipped to Luray, VA 22835

I am going to need a MAF, and all piping between it and the turbo for my 89 GL-10 turbo. What are my options??? I read thru the past posts concerning a swap with an 86 and older, and the fuel cut posts hoping to find a sure thing but it all just confused the crap out of me! What is MS+DIS????? Anyway, I need a MAF, any help would be appreciated.

Did you happen to get part numbers for the MC's?

Will rear axles off of a 90 legacy wagon fit any other subaru? Thanks

The benifit of putting the magnets on the filter is that you discard the metal with the filter, there is no doubt if you got it all out of the engine.

I did the same thing on my Isuzu P'up with the same theories in mind. The only problem I noticed was a slight drop in oil pressure. I guess due to the lower restriction with a larger filter element, the oil will pass thru easier. But you would gain less of a chance of the filter going into bypass, or at least it would do it "later". I don't see how you would get any better filtration, unless you upgrade to a filter with a better micron rating, but then again, you could restrict flow a little by doing that. If you went with the remote filter, you could get a double filter set-up, and run the two with different micron ratings. Effectively getting a "primary" and "secondary" filters. Say the first is a 30 micron, the second a 10 micron, or something..... The remote filters, oil cooler, and all associated oil lines will probably DOUBLE the oil capacity of the car! And if you do see a drop in oil pressure, you could play with the spring washers(?) in the oil pump to get more pressure. I never did that, but I had seen a thread on it here some time ago. You could also get some super strong rare earth magnets(super cheap on Flea Bay) and stick them on the filters, next to the drain plugs on the oil pan, tranny pan, etc. All those specs should be in ANY filter catalog. I spent many hours leaning on the parts counter at NAPA looking thru them(some manager I was!!)

So what's wrong with the RX??

The voltage output is fine, 14.04V, but the guage reads 5 volts less, still moves up and down with a load, just reads low. I'll check the grounds. I did plug the hoses, and it runs a lot better. I do plan on triple checking all the vaccum hoses, and plan on installing a weber so then I'll gut 'er. Thnaks

Has anyone had any ill effects after removing the air valves, check valves, suction valves, or whatever those things are called. I just plugged mine up and removed the hoses from the air cleaner to see if it would stop the stumble it had, and of course it did! Just concerned about the catalytic converter getting too hot??????? Has anyone had success finding plugs to screw in the bungs? Also, has anyone experienced a false reading from the voltmeter on the dash? Mine is reading about 5 volts too low. Any quick fixes? 86 Hatch, 1.8 4 speed 4WD

Thanks for the link Shawn, where are they located??

A large crock pot filled with antifreeze. Turn it on with the carb in it so it heats up slowly, keep it on low. Let simmer until done.

Yup, that's the part number I had, maybe I just gave up to soon. It's funny that that's the same part number as NAPA and Autozone. It's even funnier that it's the same part at different prices! I may just keep driving the beast as is, it only clicks in reverse. Thanks for the replies, it does help.

I went to replace the front axle in my 86 hatch today(EA81), and what do you know, the new axle was wrong. Hard to believe since their are only like 6 models in 86. Anyway, before I go hunting for the right one, does anyone remember the part number for a front axle to fit an 86 4wd hatch??? Thanks

doesn't the rear diffs (that have lower gears, 4.??:1 , and LSD) from later model legacy's bolt up? If so, get one from the scrap yard. That way you get a quicker launch, and traction.

MAYBE, if you had a turbo charged car, with an external oil cooler, and/or a relocated oil filter, and had several feet of oil lines that all together may hold a quart or two, and you loosened every oil line to get out every last drop....... it MAY be good to prime the engine to get oil in all the components before starting and reving the engine.......maybe.

If you run the engine to get the oil up to temp, there will be more oil clinging to the various parts in the engine(since it was just running) then there would be when you start your car in the morning, after the oil had all night to drain, or after work when it had all day. So unless you prime it every time before start up............

Did you have a problem before you changed out the front pads?? The front pads can be a pain to get in right. If you notice, the little metal clips that hold the pads in can easily get knocked around and shifted. If the pads are not riding flush with the rotors, they will not make full contact. I have replaced the front pads on a subie only 4 times, and every time those clips get screwed up, or are just old and brittle, and I have to replace them to do the job right. Good luck

The corrosion on the exterior of the engine and in the bay is superficial. How many of us drive a perfectly running car with rust on it?! Or white funky aluminum engines?! I agree that an aluminum rad is all you need, with a good fan. I had an 80 RX7 with the same 13b rotary in it for a short time, and the rad in it is NOT huge. I wonder if there isn't another problem that caused it to run so hot. I had mine to swap the rotary into my Isuzu lowrider project, but because it sat for a few years, the apex seals were toast. The cost of a rebuild kit prompted me to back up, and regroup. Good luck

I've seen that car before, well pics anyway. I can't remember if they were posted here or I found them on the web. But anyway, I kept the link... http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg04.htm

It's all coming back to me now....slowly.I'll reset the EGR light, no problem. Rebuilt and cleaned the carb, new acc. pump, adjusted float, etc, etc so I dismissed that as a culprit, but I'll look again. Thanks Skip

Ok, my 86 hatch has a bad hesitation/stumble. Did the usual tune up, filters, carb cleaning/rebuild, checked timing. But it still has a bad stumble. The EGR dash light is on, but there doesn't appear to be an ECU anywhere? What triggers the EGR light? Before I go and rip off all the emissions, what components are the usual suspects? I can hear odd noises coming from the air baffles going to the exhaust, but disconnecting them didn't seem to help. 86 4WD 4 speed EA81 Hatch

Is your car a turbo?? If not, it should be carbed. Rebuild the carb and check for free float movement, and needle and seat operation.

Check your belts first. Nothing in the fuel system will squeel and smell like burnt rubber.