Frank B

Have you double checked the cam timing? Maybe, just maybe your a tooth off. Or check the intake gaskets?

I set mine at 3 1/2 turns out. That's were it runs best. The POS is very worn, the throttle shaft is worn, the linkage is worn, I really can't get it right, it's just as good as it's going to get. Turn it in slowly, counting the turns, but do not tighten it down hard. Just turn it easily untill it stops, then back it out. Some say 2 1/2 turns. some say 1 1/2, but it really comes down to your carb. How worn out it is, how dirty it is, the altitude, etc, etc. As stated before, turn it out untill it runs smooth, which will increase the engine speed, then re-adjust your idle speed with the idle screw, the one on the left on the linkage.

ok, how's this...... It has a red and a blue wire, which is which? Where are they connected? The Subaru part number is 42085 7450. Can anyone tell me what years it fits? The other number on the disty is D4H9-024305. Thanks

Nor was it my intention to reply as if correcting you Skip, just wanted to share the knowledge, and describe the symptoms.

The pin is more like a roll pin. It can be driven out(down) with a small diameter punch, or even an old drill bit(upside down so the bit doesn't bite into the metal). I had to loosen the carb and raise it off the manifold like an inch and a half. Just pull the carb forward a bit so the pin will not fall into the manifold! I successfully adjusted my screw out to araound 3 1/2 turns and it increased my mileage, and ran a ton better. Of course, it was running too rich before all this.

well, I had no taillights, no liscence plate lights, no parking lights, on low beam the left side lamp low beam lamp would be on, the right lamp was very dim. On high beam all 4 lamps were on, but very dim. After replacing the relay's, it all worked fine.

Hmmm, I thought this would be a simple question. I'll tear into it today and find out the hard way......

I agree, it's your relay(s). When they went south on my 86 hatch it affected all the lights, I had no taillights. Also, I found a match out on the shelf in Autozone that were a Pilot Driving light replacement relay that was a 30 amp, instead of the stock 20 amp. They wanted $9.99 at the counter for the OE replacement, the Pilot relays were $3.69 each. Same plug, same size, and works great.

I have a "new style" Hitachi, as it's called in my repair manual, on my 86 Hatch(EA81)and I have just aquired an NOS "old style" Hitachi dirt cheap. It is the kind with two vaccum lines on the advance diaphram. Can they be swapped or are the internal parts different? If so, what do I connect the second vaccum line too? The two ports on the diaphram are markes A and R, I assume that is for Advance and Retard???? Thanks

I'm trying to remember, I didn't have it long. But I believe it had one distributor and a funky twin rotor and an odd cap. either way, it was a four barrel with a ton of vaccum lines!

I'd be interested in some things as well, keep me posted! Later

Here's a thought, I had an 83 or 84 , Mazda RX7 donor car that had a 4 barrel on it stock. I can't remember if it was a hitachi or nikki. I believe it was the 12B rotary. It may be smaller than the holley 390 and still give more power than the weber?????

I had seen on one of the many aircraft sites that offer subaru engine parts, a 4 barrel intake. I'll try to find it. I do agree with using MPFI heads and intake, and some custom ground cams. the engine will definatly need more air pumping thru it to use that size carb. Dual exhaust as well.

Do you have any contact info, or are you keeping that to yourself.....

Seafoam began it's life in the marine world. It was made and first used to de-carbonize marine engines, which is basically what we use it for. I believe the HQ is in Michigan, or somewhere close on the lakes, so that makes sense. The Autozone here just started carrying it, but NAPA should have it for sure. Whenever I get a car, I usually put an entire can of seafoam in the oil(with fresh oil and filter) and run it for 500 miles before changing it out. If the vehicle has been sitting a while, I usually do it twice before starting the normal intervals. I used to use the Sea Foam Trans Tune the same way untill I learned that it can actually be too strong to leave in the tranny. I would only use it if you plan on having a flush performed that would change out ALL the fluid in the tranny.

Anyone ever install a carb off of another car onto the EA81? What is known to bolt up on the manifold?

All the connectors are connected for the boost sensor and the WGDS. But still no light. Is there a way to check these units ? Ohms? Volts?

Thanks for the tips Skip, I'll check that out tonight. So where would I plumb the boost controller, before the WGDS?

For those that haven't followed the story, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29450 89 GL-10 Turbo AWD 5-speed. It didn't have an intake, airbox, MAF or battery. It had been sitting a while, and on the windsheild in chalk was written, lifter tap. Well, I finally had a chance to really play with the car today. I installed the MAF and intake hose I bought from WJM, an airbox I bought at a local junkyard, picked up a battery, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter, 2 cans of sea foam, thermostat and anti freeze. Changed the fluids, installed the parts, put an entire pint of Sea Foam in the oil, the other pint in the tank with 2 gallons of fresh fuel(had less than a quarter tank in it to start), and fired it up! WHAT A RACKET!!!! I have never heard such noise from a valve train in my life! I shut the engine down after five seconds cause it scared me! Checked all the fluids again, went out on a limb and fired it back up. After ten minutes of idling, I started revving it up a little bit more at a time. The longer it ran the quieter it got! Within 20 minutes the lifter noise was gone! GONE! Amazing. I took it for a quick ride up the road(just a few miles) and it runs great! A little stumble and a little faint click out of one of the axles, but thats it. Maybe after a tank of good fuel the stumble will go away. While changing the oil filter I noticed that the oil pressure sending unit was gone! I was a little upset at first but a faint flicker of a memory tickled my brain and I remembered back in 98 when I had my first Subaru, I had to replace the oil pump and I removed the sender on the new pump and tossed it in my tool box, and used the old one. Well guess what, it was still in my tool box. Isn't there a light on the dash that comes on when the turbo starts making boost? And one on the dash when the center locking dash in "on"? I didn't see either. I'll get tags on it soon, and sell the hatch.

Thanks

Who is the manufacturer of the turbos on the EA82T? model?

Thanks for posting those photos! What was the reason for the piston mods, and what was the result?

Sure you can, it was a common mod on the old board.

In the past, and even today at some "lower end" machine shops, they used a big belt sander with emery cloth. The same procedure you have done is a common practice in small engine and motorcycle shops, nothing wrong with it if it works, right? But where did you get a piece of emery cloth that big? Ant pics of your set up?

Is it beneficial to remove the plastic air horn in the upper part of the air box? It seems like a good thing to have. How about replacing the hard rubber intake hose from the MAF to the turbo with a mandrel bent steel piece, to smooth out the flow? Anyone done that? 89 GL-10 EA82T