Frank B

I have had one of those napa cheapo's. It worked well, but was off by a few pounds, nothing major. You'll need metric adapters. Napa sells them in the catolog, or you can try autozone. Both are kits with more than what you'll need.

Coll, thanks. I was following this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49123 And thought it would be cool to have more gears in reverse!

That's what confuses me. Doesn't the waste gat open at a pre-set pressure anyway???? It seems like the WGDS is a waste.

Can the ring gear, or the whole differential assembly in the Sube trannies, and rear diff housings be flipped around to give you reverse rotation of the tires? I know it's done in VW trannies.

If your going to be in the dirt/mud anyway, remove the front differential and weld the gears to have front posi ?! I also have removed the rear driveshaft and the car operates fine. Remove the rear differential, split the rear axle shafts and sell that stuff. Relocate the fuel pump, if your allowed. Since you'll be manuvering in reverse, the front wheel emergency brake will help you slide around and make tighter turns.

Cool, I will bypass it and see if that helps. What exactly is it's purpose?

Does anybody have a part number? Is it Subaru only or is their an aftermarket manufacturer? Are the nissan ones the same?

In my ongoing quest to cure the stumble in my 89 GL-10, I checkes the fault codes. 13, 32, and 44. Oxygen sensor, cam position sensor, and waste gate duty solenoid. I have a spare disty, and I just changed the O2 so I'll check the connection and for exhaust leaks. But could I bypass the WGDS? How is this tested?

Also, clean all the linkages on the carb with a good carb cleaner, and lubricate the throttle cable. With the engine cold, remove the air cleaner to expose the carb. Push the pedal down all the way to engage the fast idle and choke, you should see the choke plate close. Now start the engine and let it warm up while you watch the choke plate. It should gradually, slowly, open up. Once it does, blip the throttle to disengage the fast idle. The engine should be warmed up at this point and idleing fine. But if the choke, or fast idle linkage is sticking, it will rev like you mentioned. Also look for vacuum leaks.

Yup, that's the right oil. My 89 GL-10 AWD has a clink in the rear. I think it is the rubber mounting bushings on the rear diff.

Silly question, but did you use LSD additive in the gear oil?

When I had my first turbo(second Subie), The exhaust fell apart on my ride home from getting it inspected! So, I cut the exhaust 3 inches past the O2 bung on the downpipe, clamped on some flexible exhaust pipe to make the bend down, and clamped on a small glasspack muffler. That was my exhaust for a year and man was that loud! I could see people turning to see what the hell was flying down the road and see the confusion on their faces when they saw a blue Subaru! The turbo whine sounded sweet too!

Run a good flush or coolant system cleaner in it first, and if that doesn't work remove both heater hoses to your heater core, go buy a garden hose repair end and install it on a short piece of heater hose. Screw your garden hose on and clamp the little hose you made onto your heater core. Turn on the water just a little, and gradually increase the flow/pressure untill you get a solid flow out of the other heater core pipe. Then put the hose on the other heater hose pipe to reverse the flow. Keep in mind that the pressure in your coolant system is usually around 13-16 psi, and your house water pressure could be 40-80 psi. SO if you just crank it up you could very well blow your heater core and fill your floorboards with water! I usually turn the water up and krimp the hose with my hand, slowly opening it up to incease flow. I have done this on my last 6 vehicle and it worked!

Where did you drill? Any pics?

Wire up the diff lock? To a switch or to make it manual? I thought of useing a choke cable to adapt mine to a manual control. The light flickers and I haven't figured out why.

That's right! It's an 81 so it shouldn't have hydraulic lifters! Or should it, crap I can't remember. You may just need to adjust the vavle lash.

I just re-read your posts and wondered if you have tried 93 octane AND octane booster? Doesn't that thing have higher compression pistons? And are you sure that the disty wasn't put in a tooth or more off? If you feel anxious enough to replace those cams with turbo ones let me know, I might be able to hook you up with some.

I picked up a weber and disty for an EA81 from him last winter and he had that beast sitting out of the car. Did you get the tranny too?

Marvels Mystery Oil will work to clean up the lifters, but it takes forever. I wouldn't run ATF for more than a few minutes at idle. I know guys have had it in their engines for longer periods of time, but an engine and a tranny are two different machines.Your parts store must have something other than MMO. If not, you can run a quart(no more) of kerosene but just for 5-8 minutes AT IDLE before you change your oil. I think it will do a better job than ATF.

That red setup looks familiar, did you get that from Scrapdaddytatum? If so, 17mpg is good for that engine!!

The loud clicking is no doubt your lifters, pour a can of Sea Foam, Berryman's Chemtool, Valve Medic or any other sludge cleaning junk in the oil. Also check that you oil pressure is good. If not replace the oil pump. I would check the intake manifold gaskets for leaks if only one side of the engine is effected. With the engine warm and running, spray some carb cleaner around the gasket area, and under your carb. If the engine speed changes, you have a leak to fix. Replace the gaskets.

I have seen that on about a thousand pickups, mostly lowriders. Look in a Truckin or Mini-Truckin magazine for an ad with the kit to get an idea on how to make it work.

I agree. After you get the clutch adjusted, change the gear oil in the tranny. Substitute 1 quart of gear oil with Rislone. It can be bought at most parts stores and Wal-mart. It will clean up the syncros. Leave it in for a couple thousand miles, than change it out again with just gear oil.

Sounds like oil is being flung by one of the belts. Do you have A/C? when the front shaft seal goes out on a compressor, it (Ester or Pag oil)will be flung like that.

From what I learned about LPG engines, they make more useable power at lower RPM's, and you need a higher voltage ignition coil.