Frank B

Off topic for this forum anyway. I need a knock sensor and connector for my 89 gl-10 by next weekend. I have to make a road trip and I don't want to push it anymore than I have. One wire. Anyone have a good spare to sell?

1989 GL-10 AWD 5-speed. Has anyone removed the 4WD fuse under the hood for a long enough time to see if it helps fuel consumption? Will the tranny be damaged if it were removed for a long period of time? If not I thought of wiring up a switch on the dash to turn it on and off. Any thoughts?

Yeah, that's it!

Rebuild the carb, replace plug wires, cap and rotor. It should be twice that milieage.

you can also disconnect the lines at the pump, and under the hood at the filter and blow low pressure air thru them with an air tank or compressor. You might have some junk in there. Also trace the lines and see if there is and roll over valve or anything connected in the lines other than the pump and filters. If so take it off and try again. I bet you just have a bunch of crap from the tank in the lines. The entire system needs a flush.

Oh yeah, your car looks smooth with the painted mirrors and no spoiler. :cool:

Being in RWD only isn't going to burn up the diff. The same diff is used in RWD only cars, I apologize for not remembering which make and model right now. I would say that a good front wheel alighnment to change the steering geometry(camber and toe) for rear wheel drive would help the handling. And try moving some weight to the rear. Battery, spare tire, etc.

The detent or kickdown refers to the mechanism that downshifts the transmission into passing gear or a lower gear to accelerate in an automatic car. If yours is not an auto, it's confused. I thought the tranny was controlled buy a vacuum modulator that uses a vacuum signal from the engine to control when it shifts. Look on the sides of the tranny for a round metal unit, maybe gold in color with a rubber vacuum line going up to the engine. There MAY be an electric solonoid that the vacuum line connects to. The computor or another sensor controls when the solonoid opens alowing the modulator to get a signal. The connection may be dirty or the solonoids bad. Also try resting/clearing the computor. You may be able to disconnect and bypass the solonoid all together, but that may trip a fault code too. This may help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html

Looks like three hours http://maps.yahoo.com/dd_result?newaddr=&taddr=662+riverbend+dr&csz=Chesterfield%2C+va&country=us&tcsz=Luray%2C+va&tcountry=us I don't need it gone today, but I have it in the back of a 96 rodeo I'm parting out and it will have to go away soon. It will fit in your trunk so bring an old blanket.

You still want this tranny Fred?? It needs to go.

If the USAF is going to ship it with no cost to you, then keep it.

Thanks guys, it's too bad I am not the driver of this car! My girlfriend gets to drive it all week, but I get to blast it around at least once every weekend! But that's usually a test drive after working on it for a few hours..... It was loosing about 2 quarts of coolant every week, but now nothing!! Intake gaskets were mush. No oil spraying the catalytic converter and smoking out the kids either! Next weekend it gets a BOV and a hotter coil that's been waiting....

Yours is a wagon? Try on the floor just behind the seat. On my 89 sedan there are little plastic covers over the threaded inserts on the back dash behind the head rests. I have never had a wagon. The information is in my owners manual, do you have one?

I realized after I posted that I have been paying too much for my filters!

I have done the airbox mod some time ago. I have a cone K&N to put o there someday. I bought the car for $150 off of ebay. i emailed the guy and asked what he HAD to have for it, and $150 was paypal'ed to him! All in all it's a good car, just wasn't taken care of as well as it needed to be. Buy the time i get it all right, I'll sell it!

I found a cheap alternative to the pricey fuel filter for my 89 GL-10 mpfi turbo. It's Deutch FF507, NAPA (WIX) 3310. I have no idea what it fits exaclty just that it's for a Chevy, but it is for FI, same size hoses barbs, but in-line so you have to un-strap the fuel line to create some slack but it works, and it's less than $12.00, not even half the price for the correct one.

I have had my 89 GL-10 a little over a year, and have put 25,000 miles on it in that time.....and I just discovered yesterday that the firing order was opposite from what it should be, and the disty was 180 degrees off!! And it ran all this time! I never checked it even though I had changed the plugs, wires, and swapped out the disty! I just copied what was there since it ran smooth. I never questioned it. It now runs cooler, and of course, has more power! All this after spending 8 hours in the 95 degree heat replacing the intake gaskets, turbo gaskets (thanks Gary), mildly porting the turbo, soldering the wire directly to the knock sensor (didn't help) , replacing the connector to the coolant temp sensor, adjusting the TPS correctly, replacing the fuel filter, replacing the turbo oil return hose, tightening the bolts on the oil pan, and adding a few more ground wires. IT DRIVES LIKE A TOTALLY DIFFERENT CAR !!

Go buy a gallon of kerosene, same stuff that's in the engine degreaser cans, and a ggod spray bottle, completely spray the engine everywhere the grease and oil is. Let it sit, then blast away. If you have an adjustable nozzle on your washer, adjust it so it's stightly fanned and not a pin-point spray. keep the hood propped and let it drip/air dry for an hour or so then start it up and idle untill the engine is dry. You may want to keep the hood up for the rest of the day so the kerosene stink goes away. then just pop your head under the car, and under the hood to see where the fresh oil is to find the leak.

Sounds like silicone hose. I found a link for silicone turbo oil drain hose, http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-024&Category_Code=OIL and it got me thinking. When I was working at NAPA we had silicone hose, it's high temp, plyable, and cheap. But when I called they only had 3/4 and 1/2, no 5/8. So tomorrow I'm going there top get some multi use hose that resists petroleum but it's only rated at 200 degrees. We'll see how that holds up.

Well, no store around here has oil line that big. So I'm going to call the dealer.

The rubber one underneath. I have to replace it, it's hard and leaking, and before I tear into it I would like to know what size to get. I can feel it, and it feels like 5/8" or 1/2" and only four or five inches long.

Last summer I did the 134a retrofit on my 89 gl-10, this year the compressor wouldn't even engage. So I tried to add some 134a and it took some, the compressor engaged and the air was coll at 50 degrees. Next day warm air, but the compressor engaged. I do believe some of the problem is the retrofit refrigerant I used. it had oil, stop leak, seal conditioner, and leak detector in it. the system is full of green funk oily foam. I have read about the laquer thinner but i would like to flush the drier too. I don't want to throw a ton of money at this thing since it's going to be replaced in a month or so. Any ideas??

It's not in my way, I'm just tired of looking at it. If you change your mind later, that's no problem.

It's not in my way, I'm just tired of looking at it. If you change your mind later, that's no problem.

I'll hold on to it if you really are going to come and get it. It is the awd center locking diff.