Frank B

My vote is with the alternator/voltage regulator.

My vote is for the U-joints. A driveline shop (4x4 trucks) can do it for you. They are welded in and need to be balanced properly. If they do it right, they will knock off the factory balancing wieghts. I had it done years ago and NAPA U joint #812 sticks in my head.

Do tell. I could help you liberate the parts!

After the car is warmed, check that your throttle cable has just a bit of slack. Also might be an intake gasket leak.

That's what I was planning on doing to my 89 this summer! Cool man. I plan on doing away with the blinkers in the bumper, and trying to re-wire the side marker light(next to the headlights) to be the blinkers with an amber bulb. I agree that the bumpers make the car look goofy.

Check Jeggs or Summit Racing. There are the belt driven water pump types out there, but they are expensive. I'd rather have an electric motor turn my A/C compressor! That would be a hp gain!

I have managed two NAPA stores, shortly after I quit, the owner closed the one in my town! (purely coincidence;) ) So I am NAPA deprived at the moment. After spending countless hours reading and looking thru EVERY catalog in that store, I know NAPA has a better chance of getting your part than any other parts store. They have a program that allows employees to report an error in the cataloging. If it is found to be a legitimate error, the employee gets a pay bonus directly from NAPA. If your part was wrong, but the part number was correct for your application in the catalog, tell the parts clown to report it and you may make a new friend.

Did you ever replace your PCV valve?

I think the additives cleaned the crap out of the lifters, and your frustration-driven high revving "cleared out" the last of it. Keep up on the oil changes and use a quality filter like WIX. Maybe you could use some rislone or mmo in the oil to keep them clean.If it comes back, spring for a new pump.

If your compressor wheel, intake, throttle body, and plugs are not oily or otherwise abnormal looking...I would guess that if the seals on the turbo have failed, that it is the exhaust side. Is it an auto or manual trans? Usually when an engine burns oil at the rate that it BLOWS it out of the exhaust, it's too worn out to run well at all!

10 guage wire connected to the engine block to the body works well. Also check your alternator.

85 is for the Carter Weber, here's the correct link for the $65 Holley Weber progressive. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product.asp?productid=149

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Are all the lights out in the rear? turn signals, parking lights etc. or just the brake lights? I had an 86 hatch that had no lights in the rear at all, and the headlights were dim. I changed the two headlight relays under the dash, and it fixed all of it. Here's the thread..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22825

Thanks. I plan on getting a BPV installed. I thought about it and it makes perfect sense that the air would have no where to go, but chopping the airbox isn't going to make the backspin forces on the turbo any worse, it was there the entire time, I just couldn't hear it. I did the mod because I had been messing with the car all day trying to chase down the famous EA82T stumble, but nothing I did made a difference. So, I was determined to do SOMETHING to that car and see a result....out came the sawsall!!! I have a nice blue K&N(goodwrench performance) cone filter to install in the fender well(Skip), just haven't done it yet.

I just performed the infamous air box mod removing all but the lip on the bottom half of the air box on my 89 gl-10. This is the second time I have done this, first was on an 86 turbo I had. I remember the rumble and whistle, but there is also a loud whoosh or gurgle of air when I shift. Is that normal, I can't recall that on the 86.

That blue smoke is usually because of those crappy APC cone airfilters they use. They are made of nylon instead of paper or cotton. So it is more of a small screen that allows tons of dust and dirt inty the engine. Those hondas are SUPER light too. Get a stripped down DL and build up the motor if you want to beat them with a Subie.

Oh believe me when I say that I would love to pull this motor, and reseal it. But it's my girlfriends daily ride/school bus/snow mobile/shopping cart/etc.

The DOJ is the inner joint on the axles. Directly mounting to the tranny, and rear differential.

I know I have a bad DOJ on my 89, and I hope to fix it this week. But I am also chasing a bad stumble. Is it possible that the vibration from the bad DOJ is causing a false signal from the knock sensor? I will find out soon I guess.

It's no wonder they describe how to do it in the haynes manual with the engine on a stand , and upside down!

That wasn't it. I disconnected it and re-routed the hoses accordingly, tearing the air intake hose, and braeking the hard PVC pipe behind the TB. Good thing I had spares!!! But it didn't make a bit of difference. Oh well, on to plan F.

I took a gander under the car this evening to "prepare" myself for an oil pan gasket replacement. It appears as if I will need to remove the exhaust to do it. I guess it will have to wait untill I get some exhaust gaskets. Can anyone confirm this??

With so many cars on the road with electric fans, you should have no problem finding one in the junkyard. I know that the jeep cherokee auxiliary(AC) fan is small. The rad in those is only 14 inches tall!

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