Frank B

I have an AWD 5-speed tranny out of an XT turbo. I have tried to sell it, but nobody wants it. It was given to me, so if you feel like taking a trip up to Luray, VA, I'll give it to you. All I know is that it came out of an XT turbo that was a driver untill the head gasket failed.

Meeky hooked me up! I came home with two, a right and a left. I got it all back together and it still squeeked so I opened it back up and replaced the bearings and seals. The inner seal was torn but I vividly remember taking care not to tear or fold it over when I replaced it before. Oh well. I was going to replace the axle too since I was so close, but the one I ordered from Advance was wrong! Correct box, wrong part in it. And one boot clamp was missing, another was loose! I knew there was a reason I don't buy many parts from them! Sorry Tony After a spirited ride back to return the axle, it hasn't made any noise yet. But it took a few weeks last time. I'll go out and re-torque the axle nut as soon as this beer disappears. Thanks to Meeky, and Gary for the offer. This board is awsome.

I have the caliper off, with the brake line dissconnected so there isn't any pressure behind it. It either won't start on the threads, or can't get past the seal, even after being greased up. Either way, I can't do anything with it without a rebuild(re-seal) kit. Maybe at a later date, I will get a kit and try again so I have a spare.

Yes I can, if I know where to go in Ruckersville.. Pm sent, Thanks Meeky.

It could also be a bad ground, either in the lights or the harness, or it could be the headlight relays.

Ok, some time ago I had to replace the left front axle on my 89 gl-10. No problem right? Well it wasn't since I've had to do it 10 times before like every other subaru owner. Well in the process I managed to pinch, or fold, the inner seal and in a few weeks the bearings start singing. Ok, so I pull it all apart and replace them. In a few weeks I start hearing a squeeking or rubbing sound from the front left. It sounds more like somebody rubbing a balloon then metal grinding. So I start tearing it apart again with new bearings and seals in hand. Well after I remove the caliper I turn the hub and the noise is gone! Realizing that the noise is from the brakes I clean and re-lube the brakes. Well yesterday my girlfriend washes the car and guess what? The sound is back! Thinking it's the bearings...again, I get those new bearings and seals out I had purchased last time and tear into it. But this time I decide to eliminate all other possibilities and order a new axle too. But I notice that the caliper is dragging and the pressure is causing the squeek. Cool, I just need to tear the caliper open and clean it. It comes apart easy enough but now I can't get the piston back in! It has to turn in since I turned it out but it will not go! I try and try, take a break, have a glass of brandy, and call the parts stores that are still open at 7pm and low and behold the front caliper is an order only item that they can't get untill tuesday! I need the car, my girlfriend drives it and has two kids to taxi around. So I go out and try again, this time with more enthusiasm and the motivation of a father not wanting to let his family down and inconvenience them by not having a car. Well, I guess I tried too hard and I managed to tear the piston boot, and fold the seal/o-ring, and still cannot get the piston to turn in! Have another glass of brandy.....Caliper is shot. It can't be used and I need a new one. Can't have one untill tuesday, and all the local junkyards are closed tomorrow. So, as I drink the last of the brandy, I ask you this, is there ANYBODY within 2 hours or so from luray virginia that has a left front caliper to fit my 89 gl-10? I'll come and get it tomorrow(sunday 4/30) cash in hand. breeze_863d@yahoo.com

I used to have a dog named Roo too! Well, she was my ex-girlfriends dog but I named her!!

I second the air purging advice. I had it happen too many times. I fill the rad slowly while "pumping" the hoses, usually does the trick. Also filling the rad with the cap off of the flush tee helps to let the air out.

Good job! I will try that on my 89 today.

If the head is cracked on the exhaust valve side of the chamber, it wouldn't cause it to run bad. Most of the coolant, if not all, would go into the exhaust not the chamber. You'll never know untill you tear it down. Good score anyway.

Or let the dog loose in her house! Being a black Lab owner/friend, I have to say all that dog needs is a good buddy to train it. Spend some time with that dog and get it some toys. Labs are highly intelligent animals that just need something to focus thier energy on.

I have an 89 GL-10 Sedan. Full time 4wd with the center diff lock, turbo, air ride(has been swapped with coils), did-dash, trip computer(trip, average speed, outside temp, fuel range, alarm, eta), power windows and locks, A/C, cruise, fold down rear seats, power sun roof, power steering, as well as the 4 wheel disc brakes. I would have to say that this car has every available option offered at the time. But after having this, I miss my old 86 carbed 3-door, it was much simpler!

The only way you will count out the pump is to run a long jumper wire from the battery to the positive lead on the pump. Use a small jumper wire to ground out the negative. You could wire it up on a toggle switch untill you find the real problem. Or connect it to a switched source(on with ignition). Just make sure you turn it off if you use the switch!! If you have the time, chase down the source of the clicking sound under the hood. That should lead you to the fuel pump relay. Then trace out the wires in the fuel pump circuit. They go into the body under the rear seat and along the floor of the car so you will have to dig. I would guess there is a bad connection somewhere. Probably somewhere you were working to do the engine job. Did you replace any other parts?

I haven't done the swap nor driven an EJ22 car(parted one out once) but it seems as if there was a problem with the set up before you swapped it out. Did you operate the engine in the donor car? Maybe re-check all the connections.

THAT IS AWESOME! I have looked for an online manual for too long to admit! Thanks:headbang:

What's the procedure for bench testing the EA82T TPS? Like resistance values.

well, the ECM from the 87 wouldn't even start the car. But after I reinstalled the original ECM, warmed up the car, and went on a spirited drive, the codes were gone !? It still stumbles, but now there are no codes. I'll check it again later.

I removed it and cleaned it, the car ran good for a while just like when I replaced the disty, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, chopped airbox, etc. But it goes right back. It will stumble in or out of boost. It comes on strong when the turbo spools up but it still stumbles under load. driveable still, but annoying! Anybody know the correct readings(voltages) I need to see at the TPS? I'll just install the ECM tonight and see what she does.

In my ongoing quest to cure the stumble in my 89 gl-10, I have check the trouble codes and repaired the car accordingly. Since nothing I did fixed the problem or cleared the codes, I am thinking the ECM may have issues and I pick up a used one. It's off of an 87 turbo. it has a big green K the label. The numbers 22611 AA140 A11-000 R02 7107 On my 89 ecm which has a big green 53 on the label 22611 AA630 A11-000R34 8X25 I know some of these numbers are part numbers, but what are the rest? Thanks

Some city's use timers to control the lights. They will alternate so all the lights aren't an at the same time but every area will be lit at some time, does that make sense? It allows all the areas too be lit enough to thwart loiterers and burgulars, but also save electricity. Double the lights, same operating cost. Also, mercury and metal halide lamps will do that if the lamp is near the end of it's service life(going bad), they will go out when they get too hot, cool off, then come back on. My money is on that. I work for a sign company that also does exterior lighting, and we see this all the time.

That explains why mine leaked!

Other than the increased pressure, it also has double the flow rate. Your welcome, that's why this board is here.

No need to pioneer it Dan, it's been done. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400 I never upgraded the fuel pressure regulator, and the car is just fine.

How about using fuel pressure/volume to regulate it? Provide constant voltage but vary the flow and or pressure of the fuel, then it wouldn't be much different from a carb. My thoughts were to replicate this.....not that I could. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CARBURETOR-DODGE-FORD-CHEVY-GMC-100-300-mpg-GASIFIER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQitemZ8032802022QQrdZ1

How can one use the SPFI throttle body without an ECM? What is the signal range that the injector gets? And how can that be replicated without an ECM? Don't ask me why I ask, I won't say just yet.