GRANDLOYALE

UPDATE: #1. Discovered that the voltage meter I was using had a bad battery and was not accurate. NOW, I register only 3V at each injector. - Removed ECM and installed it into a Good Running Leagcy of the same vintage. Good Legacy ran fine. ECM is OK - Removed Crank sensor from bad wagon and installed into Good Running Legacy. Good Legacy ran fine. - Removed Cam sensor from bad wagon and installed into Good Running Legacy. Good Legacy ran fine. Tested Air Control Valve on Good Running Legacy, then compared with the bad wagon. Bad Wagon's Air Control Valve had same readings, so I assume it is good. Good Running Legacy has 10.5V at each injector. When the motor is running the voltage increases to 11.5V. Bad Wagon only has 3V at each Injector. When the motor is turned over the voltage drops to 2V. Thats all I know at the time.

Hello, I have a 1992 Legacy Wagon, EJ22, AWD. A few days ago the motor would not fire up and has not fired up since. The wagon has not had any motor work done to it for over 3 years. It ran and drove great over these past 3 years. The wagon has never been in an accident. The timming belt was replaced 3 years ago. What I've checked: -Fuses (both under the hood and Under the dash) -Ran the codes (24, 11, 13) -Inspected crankshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Inspected camshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Swapped out both sensors with known working ones just to be sure - no change in problem. ALSO did this test - disconnected crank sensor, connected cam sensor, sprayed fuel into intake, turned over motor, no run - disconnected cam sensor, connected crank sensor, sprayed fuel, turned over motor, no run. - connected both sensors, sprayed fuel, turned motor over - runs like a frickin champ. *** Cant test the Air Control Valve (code 24) because the Haynes manual does not have that part listed in the book. -Inspected Coil, All plugs are getting spark and sparking properly when the motor is turned over. -Inspected Fuel Filter. Good volume of fuel flows through filter. -Fuel Pump. I did not have the proper gauge to test fuel pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new pump. Fuel filter sock is new to. -Tested fuel injectors, all 4 have proper ohm reading. What I've discovered is the fuel injectors are not pulsing. -I tested each electrical lead and found that there is no power getting to any of the injectors. When I switch the key on, I should have 12V. I dont know what else to look at. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Happy Hoidays to you. Recciently I purchased an 94 Legacy Wagon. The early 90's were equiped w/ auto seat belts. I really dislike these types of belts. I did some research and found that Canadian Legacys were not equiped w/ auto belts and they were still manufactured at the same plant. I visited my secret lab...the Pick-N-Pull bone yard. I took apart a Legacy wagon like mine and discovered that my Legacy had all the mounting points needed to swap over the belts from an early model Outback or Impreza. (Removing the auto belt system) I purchased all the belt related parts from an outback, including the buckle for the seat. I found that an Impreza 'B' pillar trim piece fits the Legacy nearly perfect and gives the needed gap for the belt to disapear behind as it travels down to the retractor. (All outback belt parts installed) This is all good and fine and works like a charm. (Final install, including the Impreza 'B' pillar trim) My problem is that the seat belt warning light flashes on my dash. The auto belts have two electrical connection. They tell the auto belt motor which way to run and if the belt has locked into place. I need to find out which wires to bridge in order for the system to think that I have my seat belt on. If you have any suggestions w/ pictures please include them in your reply. Thanks.

Outback Wagon: Outback Sport:

Legacy Wagon: Outback Wagon:

This years WCSS 15 was the first time I've visited this show. I'm currently without a Subaru, but knew this would be a great opportunity to view, study and learn more about these great machines from the owners. I was really interested in the mud pit. The variety of cars / wagons (both lifted and stock) were a great way to experience just how much traction Subaru's get. I watched about 20 drivers seek the deepest depths of the mud pit and only two (that I saw) got stuck! I took the videos and posted them to my YouTube channel. Here are some links for you to share with others. Thanks for the great show. Next year I'll participate in the show and drive my Subaru to the event and perhaps I'll dive into the mud bath! Subaru Brat: Loyale Wagon: There were far more that took on the mud pit, and I have videos on just about all of them (not posted) Thanks for putting on a good show!

I just spotted a 1978 Brat at my local wrecking yard. Portland Or. SE Pick-N-Pull. It looks complete and straight. It has a bit of rust in the drivers side rear quarter panel. Too bad you cant purchase the complete thing. Better get to it while its there. They said that most cars only last about 1 month before they are sent to the crusher. These photos were taken at the local yard. Hope this helps you out. I dont work for the wrecking yard, just happened to spot it while shopping at the yard today. I hate seeing classics go without a fight. Anytime I get to put a shout out I try. Also there are 6 Loyals & 11 Legacy's at the same damn yard. Most of which are all complete. Cheers

I just spotted a 1978 Brat at my local wrecking yard. Portland Or. SE Pick-N-Pull. It looks complete and straight. It has a bit of rust in the drivers side rear quarter panel. Too bad you cant purchase the complete thing. Better get to it while its there. They said that most cars only last about 1 month before they are sent to the crusher. These photos were taken at the local yard. Hope this helps you out. I dont work for the wrecking yard, just happened to spot it while shopping at the yard today. I hate seeing classics go without a fight. Anytime I get to put a shout out I try. Also there are 6 Loyales & 11 Legacy's at the same damn yard. Most of which are all complete. Cheers

Looks so fine! Rough & Ready!

B.C./O.C., keep us posted on your rebuild. I'm really curious about your summery on the rebuild. What car / wagon did this motor come out of? How long have you owned it? What reasons prompted you to get it rebuilt? I once owned an Isuzu Trooper 4 cyl. The Trooper forums were on fire with talk about bad heads, blown motors, bad valves and weak designs. Each person complained of overheating and bad heads. There were a hand full of owners who addressed the overheating problem by properly maintaining their cooling system. I read that old radiators loose their capacity to cool because the passage ways get clogged with crap, sediment builds up at the bottom of the radiator, water pumps slowly loose their push, thermostats can fail...so making sure that the cooling system is as good as can be only makes sense. I had my Trooper radiator cleaned at a local shop for about $40, put in a new thermostat and I never had a head issue or temperature issue ever. It seems that the EA82 non-turbo heads have been given a bad rap. Lots of folks who actually drive EA82's love them and have not experienced an out of the ordinary amount of motor problems. Seems that there is some unfair bias against the EA82 for some reason, perhaps because it has the least power. Seems the hype is pretty stiff against this motor. I appreciate all the good info on this site and really thank the folks who voice their opinions and experiences w/ these motors. It sure helps allot and clears up some of the fog surrounding the hype.

I see EA82 motors at my wrecking yard each time I visit. 9 times out of 10 the motor has never been touched, the bodys are straight, glass is good and interiors complete and hardly damaged. Sometimes the motors look fantastic, hardly even oily. Many of the odometers have 200K (+) but not all of them. I often wonder why are so many of these wagons routinely getting tossed away to the scrap yard? AND why is no one taking the heads off of these motors. Is a bad head the number one reason these cars get scrapped? Do mechanics tell these Subaru owners that their head is blow and that there is no hope? I read that some light aircraft actually use EA82 engines to power their airplanes. Where are they getting their heads??? Why are they not worried about blowing a head gasket over a mountain pass. I hope that the OP'er found an EA82T head to fix his prob.

I thought that everyone wanted to ditch the EA82 because of the bad head design, the bad OHC, dual timing belts and The depleted supply of rebuilt heads? But you're saying that you prefer the EA82 due to its simplicity. I'd love to find out more of what you enjoy about the EA82. Any info (good or bad) will be a great help to me. Thanks much Subruise When you say N/A you are referring to Naturally Aspirated Right? IE Non-Turbo? I have read that the Turbo engine dont last as long as the non-turbo engines. So are all the bad vibes about the EA82 motor a bunch of hype? If you'd like to share some positive info on the EA82 I'd love to hear it. All info & experiences are food for thought here. Thanks much Crazy8's I've called around to the local head rebuilders and Subaru repair shops & all of them say "Hey man, there aint no more heads! EA82's are a dead end!" But when I go to the local bone yard here in Portland, I often see 5 GL's or Loyales in the yard, all which have complete, untouched motors (and they usually have 250K on the odometer too!!). But for the head rebuilders to say "THERE AINT NO MORE" is a bunch of crap right, there's a bunch in the bone yard that might be rebuildable. I read the tech article EA2EJ today on my lunch break. Great write up on how to do the 2.2L swap. Lots of good info. After reading that I realized that dropping an EJ22 into a GL / LOYALE is not as simple as it sounds. It is quite involved and probably above my skill level. Not to mention the amount of time needed to make sure you connected each wire to the right spot. If I need to do a motor swap on my daily driver, it needs to be done in 1 week or less (depending on how much vacation & sick time I have). The electrical harness swap gives me the shakes man. That looks like a real maze. I've rebuilt a few motors...that I understand. So tell me what you think, Rebuild an EA82 because it is Tractor simple (compared to the EJ22) and because the N/A EA82 can last a long time if you treat it nice - OR - Skip the GL / Loyale all together due to the bad heads & low power and buy a Legacy w/ the EJ22 and treat it nice. Any opinions I'd love to hear.

Woops, tried to edit my post above and clicked on quote instead.

Very good. Thanks for the info. I've been doing some more reading in the past few days and all that each of you have added is accurate. When I'd asked the question I didnt know that the EJ22 was a SLAM DUNK. Over the past few days I've discovered that the EJ18 (Impreza motor) is not an easy swap and it requires a major re-working of the harness and needs transmission adapters too. DONT QUOTE ME! I'm going off of internet info here. I'm just trying to get a fix on the options before I buy my first wagon. I only ask because I have am having a hard time deciding which wagon I want to buy. Both the GL/Loyale wagon and the Legacy wagon are great machines in their own right. The GL/Loyale was given a motor w/ a poor track record and the Legacy has the a bit more weight to carry around. Knowing that the EJ22 is a fairly easy swap with little very little modification is good to know it. Sort of makes the GL/Loyale look a bit more attractive now. I could buy a GL / Loyale and drive it till the motor gives me grief, then upgrade to a 2.2L and feel the power....OR I could buy a GL / Loyale w/ a blown motor for dirt cheap and slide the 2.2L in right off the bat. Good to know. This forum is full of great info and resources. Thanks much.

Hey, dont mean to dig up the dead thread, but I want to know if an Impreza EJ18 motor would be a good fit???? Everyone mentions the EJ22 as the ideal swap. What makes it ideal? I'm not a smarty pants, I honestly dont know what makes it Idea over other choices like the 1.8L EJ18. I'll keep poking around this forum to try and learn more about retrofitting (swapping) out a EA82 for something better.

I've seen images of cracked EA82 heads getting welded back up. A mechanic grinds a big valley along the crack, then fills the area w/ weld. Then head gets machined again to install the seats....bla-bla-bla. Has anyone had this type of work done to their head? If so, how did it go? Are there any facts or figures on the performance & reliability of a welded head? I'd love to buy a little GL, but not if the motor's are unstable and unable to be rebuilt. I'd opt to buy a legacy wagon with the 2.2 and probably never look back. I know a motor swap is popular, but I dont have the space or time to fool with that sort of thing. Great Thread BTW. I've gleaned lots of info from this single thread. Thanks

Scoobiedubie, I've been combing this forum for info on this very topic. Can you describe what a Gen 3 head is, or what motor they are found on. I'm not familiar with the different generation motors. Thank

This thread is so rad. I love all the cool stuff I'm learning about. Keep up the brilliant work man. You're doing a fantastic job at preserving this fine ride.

TURBONE Excellent how-to! Brilliant idea, sweet fab work…unlocks lots of ideas. Thanks for posting this, t was very inspiring. Keep up the good work on your machine.