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Time for a new/different MAF?...got any junkyards nearby? Good luck.

You are in Subaru heaven being on the we(s)t side of WA state. And not too far from Portland, OR. Lots of people driving lots of Subarus...I think you're in about as good an environment as it gets for finding a swap-candidate. I watch the Seattle Craigslist from over here near Spokane, WA and get jealous of the selection!

Hopefully, Josh C./Legacy777 won't mind: "...Really all you need to do is add the wires for the pressure sensor, pressure exchange solenoid, and wastegate solenoid. Beyond that, I'd recommend keeping your existing intake manifold wiring harness as it matches the plugs behind the battery. The turbo harness will be different. The only thing you'll need to do is move the coolant temp sensor wires to the driver's side. It's not a big deal, just peal back the tape, move and re-tape....." I underlined the part that may be up for interpretation. I'm not sure that means the connector is different or just a few wires....I'm going w/the latter as Josh is very knowledgeable and would have pointed it out. But I have read that it's a pretty easy swap...that's the main reason I'm attempting it! Edit: Per Josh: "The turbo ECU has the same plugs as the non-turbo ecu. So it's just a matter of adding the pins." There are also some pinout differences between the Turbo and NA: http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/ecupins/.

Hi, Based on what I read your best option sounds like what I'm about to do - Swap an EJ22T out of a '92 Legacy SS w/a bad AT tranny into my '90 Legacy. From everything I've read (a lot!) this is one of the easier swaps. The EJ22T is equal to, if not better than, the EJ20 in durability and since it's made for the US its wiring is very similar. I've been told there are only about 3-4 wires I'll need to run for the turbo sensors. It's also non-interference, I believe. As far as power, the stock EJ22T makes 165HP, as stated, but it's well known that these motors will make 200 easy and 300 w/the right mods and re$ources. I intend to add an intercooler and manual boost control, which should put me in the 200+HP range for less than $100. I spent about $500 on the '92 SS, which was a complete car, so I could ensure I got all the wiring/sensors/computers/etc. Good Luck!

Maybe I missed it, but why swap out a good, known engine? If the HG goes it'll likely give warning signs, and you'll have time to find an engine. I've read on here (I think) that the torque of the 2.2 and the 2.5 are comparable. So towing shouldn't be an issue. If you drive up into the mountains a lot, then the 2.5 may be better. Check out cars101.com....I believe the 2.5 was 155hp in '96; 165hp '97-'05?; and 170hp currently. Good luck.

The adjustment might be covered on here somewhere and I'm sure there's a 'procedure'... but I did it 'by feel'. Sorry, don't know. I've read pros/cons using the FWD mode, but mostly it's frowned upon. And wouldn't see how that would affect the transmission's shifting. Not sure we're on the same page re: the differentials: The front diff is built-in to the tranny (axles attach to the tranny) and would be geared for a 4.11 on the '91, which means the rear diff must also be 4.11. The '94 is 3.9 front and rear. So, you can't mix a '94 Tranny/front diff w/a '91 rear diff.

Oakland must have a pull-a-part? Get a MAF for cheap and if it doesn't work take it back. Good luck.

No offense to your mechanical aptitude, but are you sure the shift lever is adjusted correctly? I had to re-adjust mine when I replaced it. It sounds like it's slipping out of gear...not actually the tranny slipping. And your rear diff was swapped too, correct? The '91 is a 4.11; the '94 is 3.90. Good luck.

Temp sensor?

If your alignment is 'known good' now, mark the location of the FRONT Upper bolt (it's oval shaped) on the strut mount before touching it and put it back exactly, your alignment should be fine...Mine was when I put OB struts on my older Legacy....took it in just to check and they told me it was 'in spec'. Have fun w/it!

No CEL...but need to check/pull codes....Cleaning the IAC was on my 'to do' list.....maybe just sooner than later. Thanks Gary

Hello, '90 Legacy AWD Automatic N/A 2.2 - 151K When engine is warm and I restart, the RPM bounces between 500 and 1000 for about 15 seconds, and then settles down. Recently started getting slight stumble/hesitation when engine's cold and I accelerate. Runs great otherwise and MPG is 22/28. Recent new plugs, Subie (!) wires, and O2 sensor....and the bouncing RPM did it b4 any of this was changed, too. ...I'm thinking IAC or temp sensor?? Thanks

Can't comment on replacing clutch plates...didn't get that far into it. My tool collection is incomplete, but was adequate for this job...I don't have any air tools. I got the solenoid seals and the big seal between the transmission and transfer case...no header gaskets. I dropped the entire exhaust...the cat bolts were heat-welded, and didn't want to fight 'em.

That IS impressive!

Just replaced the Duty C solenoid AND redid the transfer clutches on my '90 Legacy - fixed the binding and a 1-2 second delay before the AWD kicked in. Buy a NEW solenoid for <$100 - http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Item: PT040396 VLV AY TRF Price: $85.14 Repairing the transfer clutches is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55651&highlight=bad+gear+good+torque+bind and here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467 Replacement does NOT require removing the trans from the car. Removing/installing info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81591&highlight=transfer+clutch I'd get the transfer clutch out of JY, do the repair, and then do the swap. I did this (and I'm NOT a mechanic) in about 4 hours by myself. My car has very little rust underneath, so if your car came from the NE, expect some grief getting things loose. Good luck.

What did the mechanic do? Some on here have reported flushing the transmission fixed it. But Yes, replacing the rear transfer clutch assembly (removable rear section of the transmission) is likely needed. It is HIGHLY recommended that the Duty C solenoid, aka transfer case solenoid also be replaced when they are in there. Another option is if you or a mechanically inclined friend want to do this, there is a GREAT thread/post on doing this. I'm no mechanic, and I did this myself. Otherwise, it's in the $1000 range @ the dealer. Here's a link on another subie site: http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Good luck!

Yet another post confirming the need to stick w/OEM wires. Why Subes are so picky, I do not know. Congrats on getting it fixed!

Is that a typo?....Mine says Full Time AWD. I doubt that the FWD cars got a sticker. Yes, all 4 wheels on the ground is OK w/the 5 spd...no towing an Automatic w/ANY wheels on the ground. Good luck!

Sounds like the the 'rack and pinion' weren't lined up when either it was made, or less likely installed as it should be 'set' from the factory. If you 100% trust the mech, then he should be your 'expert' source in getting it replaced by the factory. If he's just the closest wrench around, then get a 2nd opinion....go to the 'st(d)ealer' if you must. I'd think you'd notice a much tighter turning radius one way vs. the other, too. Compare it to the old one (or did it go back as a 'core'??)...kinda hard if it's installed...but may shed some light? Good luck.

1990 Legacy L Wagon, 4EAT, Lifted, running 205/70R-15 studded snows, w/a '91 (?) turbo tranny and 3.9 rear LSD. 22.5 MPG* City 20%/Highway80% - 65-70MPH Highway Running 205/60R-16: 25.5 MPG* City 20%/Highway80% - 65-70MPH Highway * This is the 'corrected' amount by using the http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

'03 2.5 (per your 1st post) is PN: 11810AA040 11810AA040 Outback 2002-2008 Engine PCV PCV VALE FOR ALL 2002-2008 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 (NON H6) (NON TURBO) '03 3.0-Here's a pic of the P/N: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3166&d=1097973143 Here's pic of the comparison: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3123&d=1096256188

UPDATE: Thanks to USMB members (again ), I determined this was the clutches in the rear transfer case. As a interim fix -and because it sounded cool :cool: - I installed the 4WD diff lock switch this fall and it made the 4WD work great, esp. since we've had near record snowfall this winter. Here's a link to the switch: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 Since I still had my old tranny, I used its parts to fix the one I installed last summer. I took my old tranny apart and its output hub had the grooves that this and other posts showed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&page=6 I filed down the grooves. I bought a new Duty C and gaskets and installed in the housing of my old tranny. Finally had an above freezing day (unheated garage) and tore it all apart....here's another post w/instructions: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81591&highlight=transfer+clutch This was not as tough a job as I feared, BUT many of these items were removed last summer when I swapped trannies, so the nuts/bolts were easy to remove. This car also has very little rust, which makes it much easier. Took about 4 hours, since I'd already 'prepped' the rear housing and Duty C, and just swapped parts. The output hub had grooves worse than the original, so I thought I was on the right path. The result? So far, so good. I found some snow and when I punched it had instant traction @ both ends. NO DELAY!! Before, I had a 1-2 second delay before the rear-end would kick in, which was a real drag (pun intended ). Suggestion to anyone swapping in a used tranny, or even a rebuilt one, is to check the rear transfer clutches/hub and replace the Duty C....sure wish I had read up on it before I'd swapped mine!....Live and learn! Thanks again USMB!

Condition Value Excellent $5,855 Good $5,330 Fair $4,650 This if for Private Party in Portland, OR (no offense to Bigbusa). If the car is good to go for another 60K (except gas and oil changes), which it appears it is, then $6K is on the high end.....but what's it worth to you to have all the maintenance done? One thing I continue to see is that West Coast cars are more than East Coast. Don't know if it's the lack of rust or just higher demand for Subies out here. Is 115K on the original clutch low (I drive an AT)? If so, was it driven hard or just a lot of stop-n-go city driving? Sounds like a good deal, if you can get it for $5500 or less.

I (and a lot of help from friends) replaced my tranny and a left front axle this summer on my '90 Leg. Due to finding out on Sunday afternoon that the front left boot was torn, and that only (N)Autozone had mine available I bought one. As it was my 1st big time mechanical repair, I was borrowing a friend's garage and tools, and I needed it for work the next day, I 'fixed' it then and there. Less than 6,000 miles later it was creaking/groaning when accelerating (but not clicking :-\ ), vibrating thru the steering wheel, and felt like my tires were out of balance on the freeway! Thanks to this site I was able to swap it out w/another one in about 30 minutes (amazingly simple). I'll return the bad one for credit if possible, but if I have to take another one, it's going to Ebait. It now makes no weird noises and rides almost smooth on the highway (I'm still on studded snows that may be due for a balance). One thing I'm unsure of is whether running Outback struts may have caused more stress due the angle, leading to premature failure??....but I had the right/passenger side replaced (b4 I realized how easy it is!) about a year ago and it's still going strong. Anyway, Thanks USMB members!

Will that 2.5 have the upgraded HGs? Might as well do the TBelt, too. When ready post the TW here as well: legacycentral.org They like their turbos! Good luck w/the 2.5.