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Mike, Old post, but I'm doing this job soon. Is the issue above separate from getting the TC in correctly? I've read where it's a challenge to get the TC seated correctly, too. Thanks

I don't know how much lift overall by just replacing w/OB struts and springs, but likely @ least 2 inches....I know that when I first got in the car after the swap it was noticeably higher. Swapping top hats depends on your tool selection. I've never done Subaru top hats, but I've heard it's easier to remove the top hats if you loosen 'em (don't remove!) while they're still installed, but if you have a vise/work bench, probably not a big deal. Then you'll need the spring compressor, which if you have power tools makes it an easier job, too.

Gary, What's your opinion on TC's...should it be replaced w/new? I've got the replacement scheduled for next weekend...provided I can get the seals from the local dealer in time.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75024 On my post above I stated I was looking for a used replacement for my '90 Leg AWD Wagon due to a couple issues. Although the issues haven't gotten any worse, I"m planning on doing the swap w/in the next month. I bought a '91 4EAT and rear VLSD, both out of a Turbo (Mucho Thanks to 86ruguy for his help!) that I'm ready to install. I also got the Torque Converter, driveline, TCU, starter, Flexplate and rear axles. Mr. Grossgary suggested the TC seal, ring seal around the torque converter shaft and the rear output shaft seal.....there's also a 'graphite' seal, which may be included in Gary's list?? He also states to leave the rear main alone, unless it's leaking (it's not- yet), as it is tricky to replace. I have a Haynes manual and will likely enlist the help of a family friend who's a Jeep fanatic - he has the tools and a shop. Any other links or books/manuals I should get? This will be my 1st project of this magnitude, but this doesn't sound like it's technically challenging as much as labor intensive. I've done a search here and thru Google, so I have some info to go on, (esp. about ensuring the TC seats properly) but any additional details are appreciated. Also, any info specific to checking-out the VLSD is welcomed. Thanks!

I did a direct swap of front and rear struts from a '97 OB (used) onto my '90 AWD Legacy. I drilled 2 new holes in the rear as I didn't want to deal w/swapping top hats. I believe I used the outer bolt hole as a guide. Mine do not fit perfectly inside the hole in the top of the strut mounting location - they're off by 1/2" or so, but snugged up tight and don't squeak. If you drill 3 new holes using the OB top hat as a guide they might fit like the originals. Other than the top hat issue, installation was easy enough - and I'm no mechanic. I did struggle making room for the struts in the front and rear but found a lever to pry the wheels down far enough to get the struts in. For the brake line, you'll need to remove the clip and cut the brakeline mounting bracket thru one side and bend one end up and the other down to get the hose out. I've had no issues w/spacing of the rear sway bar or any other suspension parts. I have 205/75-R14 tires, which do rub on the front @ full lock. I have 205/70-R15 studded snows that are essentially the same dimensions, and fit too. There's less than an inch between the front of the back tire and fender edge. I've not had the car offroad to test full travel, however. I took it in for an alignment and it was just barely off in the front - ensure you mark the locating bolts/nuts/spacers when removing. The car drives straight w/no issues. It does respond quickly to steering input, but maybe just more noticeable as my old struts were.....old! I have over 4K miles on the swap and so far, so good. Good luck.

Our Co. car was an '03 Forester and the dealer did the brakes @ 32k (2005) for free....said it was part of the warranty? I was totally surprised/happy as I always thought after 12K it was considered 'owner maintenance'. Any chance your '04 qualified for this, too?

Buy this from the guy in Yakima? Regardless, have fun w/it.

My guess is Spokane Hoopfest traffic heading back. 20,000 plus competitors (6,000 3+ member teams), quite a few from Seattle I'd bet, would cause some grief. This is common on holiday weekends, too. I used to live over there and had the 'pleasure' of doing the Ellensburg to summit stop-n-go.

'90 Legacy Wagon w/"power" locks. Passenger-side interior door lock button/switch (Gen1 don't have a dedicated lock/unlock switch) will not stay unlocked while pulling the interior handle; pulling the handle causes it to lock. I have to hold the button "open" while pulling the handle to open the door. Also, occurs from outside if the button is not completely open on the inside. I took it apart but can't figure out if something's missing or just broken. Or whether it's related to the handle or the door latch mechanism itself. The power locks do work on the passenger door, BTW. Thanks for any insight.

Put me in for a set, too, please. I believe the '90-'94 models are the same, but would like a '90-'91 to be sure. This is the front driver and passenger seat belts, and the trim on the B-pillar, along the headliner and down to the windshield (or do you Canadians call it a Windscreen? ). I'd take blue or gray. Thanks, Td

Pretty sure that's an OBDII, because the '95 2.2 is a frequent donor to '96-98 Outbacks w/the 2.5. Everyone says it "bolts right up" - including all the wiring.

The EJ22 is a great engine. Regarding non-interference, only the EJ22 non-turbos prior to '97 are non-interference, according to what I've read here and elsewhere. Here's a Wikipedia link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine "The SOHC EJ Subaru boxer engines were non-interference engines through 1996. "

I pulled all the belts and the noise is still there, so still unknown. I did try to remove the heat shield under the front cat (as suggested by Subie shop), but the bolts are rusted/heat welded? so that won't be done anytime soon..no rattles coming from it regardless. I did put 800+ miles on the car over the weekend, w/out incident. Car ran perfect, shifted great going up/down 2 passes and got 28+ MPG @ 70 mph (OR) - 75 mph (WA). I'll drive it as is and keep an eye out for another tranny. Thanks all for the feedback.

I'm 90% sure it's gear oil, just because of the smell and color. Thanks for the info.

1990 Legacy Auto AWD. There are 2 hoses coming off the top of the front differential - near the differential dipstick. One is leaking/draining on the starter, which then runs down and ends up on the exhaust. I had all the diff fluids changed about 1 month ago and the dipstick shows overly full....just drain some out and it'll be good? Thanks

Update: Taken to 2 shops. First one, a dedicated tranny and muffler shop, said it would be $150+ to fix the check valve, and they couldn't find the noise, but it's not in the exhaust. They suggested i go to the shop below. 2nd one was a Subaru-only shop (they service and sell used Subes and have a super-nice '97 OB for sale ). They said not to bother fixing the check valve (I left it overnight for them to test cold) and the noise was "rocks stuck in the heat shield" (if so why didn't they remove the shields to verify???) or noise in transmission ("Thanks for sharing" :-\ ).They suggested I'll need a new/rebuilt tranny....I'm waiting for them to call back w/a quote. It's the 2nd time I've been there and neither time have I been too impressed w/their diagnosis. So, for now I'll keep looking for a used one and drive it 'til it starts to die.

I looked last night for the filter, as SVXpert has 'em for sale, but there's not one on my car. I did call another local shop specializing in Subes and they had heard of the issue (#1) and it'd cost about $150 to fix - labor and parts.

I can't pinpoint the sound as it only does it while driving (I can't get either step-son to ride under the hood:)) - it doesn't make the sound just revving the engine in Park or N. Maybe more towards the front left-driver side? I've tried to record the sound, but neither my cell phone nor digi-cam can pick it up, and I don't have anything else w/a mic.

My '97 OB was @ 130K, $1500 @ a local shop, including t-belt and pulleys, and the heads. Mine never "blew" - just oil in the coolant, so I did it B4 it got hot. Sounds like time is worth more than $$ 2U right now; shop around and get referrals if you're going to keep the 2.5. Drop it off and pick it up in a couple days. I agree, just do the HG. You'll likely get another 50K (or maybe 100K+!) B4 any other major engine 'surprises'.... I did see a 2.5 on Ebay rebuilt and new HG sell for $800+shipping, so they're out there...but not likely if you need it yesterday. Also, the '95 2.2 swap is probably the cheapest and most reliable option, if you won't miss the 30+HP for the next few years. Been there...sorry UR2. Good luck.

'90 Legacy 4WD wagon. I bought the car w/136k and now has 139K. The 2 issues below haven't gotten any worse or better. I did do a complete flush of the tranny @ about 137K - no difference. Issue #1: When the car sits overnight or all day it does not move for 5 seconds or so after moving to D. It always eventually works and w/in 30 seconds it works fine. If I go home for lunch (3-4 hours of sitting), it's fine. There are no issues in normal driving - either in town or on the highway @ 75 - it shifts correctly. Fluid level is full. I found this online (http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1990-to-1994-subaru-legacy-2.htm): Automatic transmission: If the transmission is slow to engage after being parked, the torque converter is draining down and a new cooler line with a check valve must be installed. (1990-91) I've called 2 Subaru shops and they've never heard of this issue and the parts department can't find the 'cooler line w/a check valve' in their parts books. Issue #2: When the car is warm or cold, and accelerating moderately a 'whirring' noice comes from the front. It occurs in all gears (or seems to) and occurs @ 2500-3000 RPM. It doesn't do it when the go pedal is floored or when lightly accelerating. I thought maybe it was a heat shield rattle, but ruled that out. The sound doesn't cause any problems w/accelerating - performance isn't affected. I did put the FWD fuse in for grins, and it's not as noticeable but still there. If you have any ideas feel free to enlighten me. I'm currently shopping for a 4EAT to have handy.

Cost me $150 for the passenger side last month - inner and outer. Local shop - not a chain. Keep shopping.

Trans is the same; rear diff is not - 4.11 for the '90-'91, 3.90 for the '92-'94.

I have a '90 Legacy...did you have any surging in RPM? Mine does when it's started when warm - not a cold start. Goes up and down from 1200 RPM to 500-ish for about 10-15 seconds. Otherwise car idles no worse than any other Sube I've had....like Manarius said, I consider it the Subie rumble.

I believe it's fixed.....w/new(er) wheels. I bought some used - '96 legacy - wheels off a guy on our local craigslist. Took 'em to a chain - Les Schwab - and they traded me the wheels for the mount/balance. Much better and no wiggle @ the 65-75. the shop said they mount the tires low spot to line-up w/the valve stem..just as one of the articles stated. I didn't check if the old tires were mounted that way. Thanks for the info and the links.....