ausubaru92

Foxy has it right. Fuel supply (the one with the filter) goes to the middle pipe. If you follow it it will go to each injector and then back to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) The other hose goes to the FPR and is the return And the smaller hose from below goes to the canister

I think you are going about it the wrong way. You would be much better off finding an 88+ MPFI sedan or wagon and using its loom. It will then match up to your vortex engine (you will have to use the MPFi engine loom, but thats no hassle) The MPFi and Turbo looms are identical for 4 plug systems. there is no grounding pin to tell the ecu its turbo mode, or man/auto ect. Just 2 ecus, turbo or mpfi Fire me a PM on AUSubaru, im Suparoo over there.

I'd imagine it'd be linear

Thats a pretty wide tyre for a 13" wheel. 185/70r13 would be heaps easier and cheaper to find

Its not so much a horsepower limit, its actually peaks of torque that will break the gearbox. You could safely put 700HP through your box if you drove smoothly. Its usually dropping the clutch at 6000rpm that will break it. No the EJ series gearboxes have a different bellhousing pattern, but you can make an adapter

Ive done it! I got an articulator from another car (l series) and modified it to fit in the drivers door, wasnt hard and then bought the remote controller off ebay. There are about 4 ways to wire the controller, subaru uses the reverse polarity way. (ie. the polarity reverses for lock/unlock) You only need 2 of the 4 wires goin to the drivers door, the ones that go to the other doors. ignore the + and - wires in the drivers door. Mount the controller under the steering colum and tap into the wires behind the kick panel Good luck

^^^^ I think in that case it wouldnt matter what radiator you used. Have a read of this L series radiator upgrade

Visit ausubaru.com The general consensus is get a liberty/legacy radiator and and put it in the EA82 frame and fit custom end tanks to it. What did you mean by The radiator is mounted infront of the engine, behind the bumper

What's wrong with my distributor? I have to get a heat shield to protect my master cylinder otherwise i might find my brake fluid boiling or worse, the resivor melting off. Ive posted a couple more pics of the finished project on that thread on AUSubaru http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8427

Spider intakes are kinda rare in Australia. Just normal compression There is probably about 1 to 1 & 1/2 clearence between the exhaust and the steering shaft What detail pics would you like? I have the full thread on the AUSubaru.com site http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8427

Well my old turbo pooped itself, so i decided to upgrade Comparisin between old VF4 and the TF035 off a GT Forester New Up-pipe Radiator for the WAIC (water to air intercooler) Bell mouth dump pipe Turbo and Dump pipe in place And almost finished

I too am installing an adjustable FPR. Its a Malpassi one. The stcok system goes like this Fuel pump > High pressure lines to engine bay > Fuel rail > FPR > Return So you will want to replace the factory FPR with your new AFPR. The Input on your AFPR will come from the fuel rail. The output will go to the Return line back to the fuel tank And the Vac line will go to the intake manifold

So that means that the engineers at FHI were obviously pretty confident with the oiling system of the ea82. Be careful with changing the size of the galleries, you dont wanna increase flow to some parts and stave oil to others

Replaced pump, still runs like crap and still makes noises. So i swapped the Fuel pressure regulator and driveability is back. Not perfect so i tested fuel pressures and they are better, but im gonna get a malpassi ajustable 1:1 and use that. The rubber diaphram in the stock one must go hard

My fuel pump started making grinding noises the other day so ive bought a new pump Will see how i go

Sorry, i meant 9.5v. But yeah you get my idea.

I have an 89 vortex motor in my wagon. I noticed that it surges and loses power as it nears 5k rpm so i bought a narrowband Air fuel ratio gauge. As i accelerate, it goes from rich and 3k rpm to full lean by about 4-4.5k rpm, (i wasnt game to rev it any more) So i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and noticed that at idle i had like 38psi and at cruise i had about 42psi. but on boost i have only 46psi. Thats says to me that the fuel pressure cant keep up, as boost pressure raised by 7psi but the fuel pressure only raised by 4psi. Anybody had a similar problem?

So if the EA82 and ER27 share the same MAF, that must mean that the when in the EA82, the MAF still has heaps of headroom. Has anyone ever measured the output voltage of the MAF when making power? For example, does it give 4.9 volts when the car is at factory boost at 5000 rpm? or is the voltage much lower?

Wonder if i could get one sent to Australia? Especially with out high Aussie dollar What about RICE http://www.14point7.com/RICE/RICE.htm It has even more.

You need all of them. If you take anyone of them out, the engine will throw a code and go into limp home mode.

There should be 2 boost switches, one for the dash light (set at 2psi), and the other for the ecu (set for i think 8psi). You should be able to read stored codes, there are 2 pairs of connectors. There is a configuration for reading stored codes.

If you really want a 6cly Try the EZ30 from a legacy/outback. It has a timing chain so it is not much longer than an EJ20/22/25 (which have timing belts) But for practicality, go the EJ22. Bulletproof and proven power.

Are you talking about the water passage that goes though the MPFI throttle body, if so, leave it as is. It is there to make the fast idle, pcv and purge features work propperly There is not enough water flow to make a preformance difference, it only warms one part of the throttle body, remember its only a 7mm hose.

Where did you get your dual core radiator? Was it a custom impreza/tarago one or a propper auto/turbo leone one?

Ok that i dont know. I have 1 89 mpfi and 88 turbo block, both have the same seperator