ausubaru92

All ecu's from 87.5 - 94 should be interchaneable. Turbo is same pinout as non turbo, only the turbo ecu has a few extra wires, one for Knock sensor, the other for WasteGate Duty Solenoid. Could your injector resistor pack be bad? One side of the injector has +ve power all the time, it is the neative side that is switched by the ecu, and the current is limited by 4 resistors, these are located on the right hand side strut tower (not sure if it is opposite on USDM cars) (i hope that made sense) I think that your best bet would be to find out what all the codes are. Gannon.

Yes they should, the 87.5 - 94 ecu's should all have the same wiring pinouts, even turbo ecu's are compatable, (of course the turbo ecu's have a few extra wires,.. Knock Sensor and WasteGate Duty Solenoid off the top of my head) Any other qtns, just ask Gannon.

I saw a pic of somebody who had incorporated a boost gauge into the dash part that has buttons for fog lights, lift, rear demist, ect. it is just above the hazard switch. Anybody remember who it was?

Loyale's didnt come with rear sway bars as standard. it was only the RX, GL10 and XT that had rear sway bars you will have to find the rear trailing arms off one of these cars as well as the sway bar for the conversion, (you may as well add the rear disks while you are at it) I too am looking for suspension upgrades. I drive mostly on road that has lots of corners and hills. What spring/strut combination would give the best handling? Gannon.

The XT wiring is very different to the loyale one. same wires and sensors ect, but they are just located in different parts of the car/loom. eg. the ecu is in the boot of the xt, under dash for loyale,... the loom enters the engine bay in the centre of the firewall on the xt, it goes through the fender above the wheel on the loyale. would be very hard to use same loom in my opinion. go to the jy and find a mpfi car and see if you can get the loo, just ake sure is is of same era. 88 onwards would be your best bet. Hope this helps Gannon.

I think all ea82 heads have those holes in them Anyway, any heat that was gonna melt aluminium alloy, would have burnt that oil off long ago.

your best bit would be to get a mpfi wiring loom (then you will only have to add the wires i do, or get an RX or GL10 loom that has all the wires you need.

It may be of great benifit if you could hide a piece of railway line behind the bumper:grin: They wont know what hit them Rig up a radiator in the boot or on the roof. I doubt these suggestions are allowed, but its worth a try:headbang:

What engine is currently in your loyale,... is it carbed, spfi or mpfi? If it is the latter,.. mpfi, you are in luck I will be doing basically the same thing, putting a xt turbo motor in my wagon, but using the wagon wiring loom. From what i have found, the xt and loyale use the same wiring system, only in the xt, it is layed out different. The only difference is that the turbo motor will need some wires added. a shielded wire for the knock sensor, a wire for the waste gate duty solenoid. plus a wire each for the boost sensor and the oil pressure sensor on your dash The 84-86 ecu's (sometimes refered to as 3 plug ecu's) are different to the 87-94 (4 plug) ecu's. Pinouts between turbo and na models are the same. Any other qtns,.. dont hesitate to ask Gannon.

Is far as i know, there is no difference between the wiring between MPFI and turbo wires, except those sensors dedicated to turbo stuff. but it all should work on a na motor, Provided it is of same era,... 85 & 86 are different to 87 > 94 Hope it all works out

I have a touring wagon and it doesnt have light washers Those mags on that hatch look SWEET:headbang: Are they much different to the normal steelies that most subes have or are they just painted a pretty colour?

Ok thanks guys I the vortex xt motor i have is an 88 but has the normal l series intake but it has the serpentine belt. Since this motor didnt come with alternator, power steering pump or air con, (i will use the ones of my current car) does this mean i will have to change the water pump, or just the pulley. Gannon.

I thought that the auto 4wds have a electronically controlled multiplate clutch, so maybe it's toast Gannon

It really shouldnt be leaking fuel It is a device that lets air into the manifold under high vaccum, i.e. when deaccelerating at high revs. Dunno why it would be leaking:confused:

I would have thought that if something in the disty has failed or broken, wouldnt this have a severe inpact on how the engine runs, if at all. It could just be wiring, or the ecu has been known to throw false codes for the wrong problem before. Have you cleared your codes?

OK I have been given a lot of conflicting informaton But i think i have it sorted Out of the 3 FSM's i have, none of them have a dedicated mpfi wiring diagram, only turbo, so i assume that mpfi is the same as turbo, only difference that i can find is that the turbo ecu has knock sense, and wastegate control (which i believe is only an altitude compensator for lower air density) I have opened the case on both ecu's and they look identical as far as component placement goes (the only difference is that the turbo one has a second circuit board mounted about half an inch above the other one. I assume this is the knock sensing part. I have found that i do not need a boost sensor unless i have the instrument cluster with the boost light. There is no input on the 87+ ecu for this sensor, unlike the 84-86 ecus that used 2 boost sensors, 1 to turn on the boost fuel maps and one for the boost light. What i am planning to do is run a shielded wire from the engine bay to the ecu for the knock sensor, the wire for the wastegate duty solenoid, 2 wires to the dash, (in case i ever get an RX instrument cluster so i have oil pressure and boost light.) Here are some pics of the ECU's (turbo one on the left) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9965&size=big&cat=500 I'm still open to any suggestions and input Cheers Gannon.

Well i have both ecu's side by side and they are exactly the same. I also have wiring diagrams for both and they are identical So i guess i will just have to try it

If you are gonna fit a blow off valve, you will have to make it a recirculating type.(as apposed to atmospheric venting) i.e. the outlet of your BOV will have to plumbed back into the intake after the MAF and before the turbo. Otherwise the air that was measured by the MAF will be let out into the atmosphere instead of going into the engine and your engine will stumble because the excess of fuel that is injected into the intake. Not a great explanation but i guess you get the picture Hope you get it running:headbang: Gannon.

C'mon Surely somebody has done something like this before. Please, even just a yes or no Anybody:confused:

I have a spare cluster in my bedroom and apon closer inspection, it has the circuit board tracks and the connecting pins to the Turbo light, oil pressure gauge and the volt gauge already there - minus the components. So it looks like you only have to add extra wire and pin to the round connector from the oil pressure sender (that you will need to add to your oil pump) The voltmeter is just fed from the voltage on the instrument cluster Hope this makes it easire for you:banana: Gannon.

Im wanting to but a 88 turbo XT ecu in my 89 mpfi touring wagon along with the 88 XT motor, but will keep the mpfi loom intact. Will the turbo ecu plug straight into the existing mpfi loom or will i have to swap some pins I realise i will have to add some wires for 2 boost sensors and the Waste gate control as well as the knock sensor,... is there anything i am missing out? Any help greatly appreciated Cheers Gannon.

While on the subject of Spyder Intakes..... I'll throw in a Hijack.... How many Pins does the throttle position sensor and the throttle switch have. The vortex wiring diagram i have shows a 4 pin connector for the TPS and TS combined How is this connected compared to the turbo normal intake with the 3pin TPS and 3pin TS Cheers Gannon

You will need a oil pressure sender, it gives a variable voltage signal depening on your oil pressure, (the oil pressure switch that you have just tells you that your oil pressure is dangerously low) I also did a upgrade to add the dash with the tacho, not an easy job, it involves being good with a multimeter and it helps if you can read printed circuit boards (ie the back of the instrument cluster) I dont wanna put you off doing it, by all means do it, but be warned that it can be tricky. Good luck:headbang: Gannon.

I think that you have to dissconnect the vac line and plug it so that the disty is at base timing, not influenced by manifold vac. Gannon

I have a Vortex Turbo motor and ecu in my garage that i bought last week, but i dont think that counts. Small hijack here.... Archemitis,... how did u do your hatch conversion cos im gonna put a vortex turbo motor in my wagon? Cheers