ausubaru92

Hey bpm I had the right idea, but i missed a few of the details:rolleyes:

I definately think that the injectors are the issue. Im gonna take them off and put some others on. I will take another look at the earthing (this is the one on the thermostat housing right?) but im pretty sure it is ok. It ran a little better today, for nearly 8 seconds, and that cos i adjusted the timing, i think i had it at 0deg tdc. But i still needed to add fuel to the intake to get it to run. Keep those suggestions coming Cheers

I cant remember where i saw it, but rally cars dont have blow off valves to decrease turbo lag, they have an injector in the exhaust to create a burst of hot air to keep the turbo spinning as they slow down into a corner. This is bad for the turbo, but means that they can make boost almost instantly that they hit the gas as they exit the corner. Im pretty sure that that is how it works:brow: Gannon

I have fuel at the engine,.. i pulled off the hose just after the fuel pump, plenty of fuel. But the fuel was not purely purple, it was darker, this could be the problem. Ive checked out the wiring for the wgds,.. one pin goes to the ecu (the ecu grounds this when activated) the other wire is connected to the 12+ on with ignition that the fuel pump and other solenoids are connected to. I think bad fuel is the problem, cos it gave a couple of coughs before i started adding fuel to the intake. I will try with new fuel and see how it goes. Cheers

I bought some new leads and the spark is now a whiteish blue,..and it fires, but that is it (with a little help of some fuel in the throttle body) So ignition seems good. Fuel is the problem. I have 12 volts on both sides of the injector, then when i start it, the voltage fluctuates (kinda hard to tell with a digital meter) Sooooo,..... Its either bad fuel, or the injectors are blocked :-\ Im gonna try to make up a temporary tank and fill it with fresh fuel and see if that works. Hooziewhatsit... When i turn the ignition to on (not start) the fuel pump comes on only once, I didnt have the green plugs connected, but if i do, the fuel pump cycles on and off. Thanks guys

Ok i checked the colour of the spark, far from blue..... a yellow spark and some were a lot weaker than others. So i will order new leads and a new disty cap as well, the points in it are pretty worn. But that still doesnt explain why if i unplug the maf, the injectors, the ficd solenoid or the purge soleniod, it doesnt give codes Beats me :-\ The car has sat in a paddock for almost 2 years (i have had it running, about 6 months ago, before i started the conversion) so I drained the fuel at the outlet just before the pump, and put more in, but should i drain the whole tank, how is this done Thanks Gannon

88 touring wagon with vortex turbo conversion... Fuel pump cycles on and off. Has spark There is 12v to earth on both pins of the injector. Is this right? Only code that flashes is 7 (australia non turbo) (im using the mpfi ecu for now) o2 sensor is not connected,.. no code When i unplug the injector ,,, no code im yet to see if i can get a code, even though i have unplugged the maf, injector and purge soleniod, but still no codes??? only previous code was coolant temp, but i fixed it. This was with no test connectors connected. Is there anything im not doing? Could my ecu be toast? Gannon

From what ive understand 1984-86 use the 3 plug ecu, flapper MAF, vac advance disty (not optical) knock control unit seperate to ecu and boost or vaccum switches for the ecu. 1987.5-94 used a 4 plug ecu, hotwire MAF, optical disty, no pressure switches, and the knock control unit is incorporated in the ecu. And the 1987-87.5 was a slight variation of the 87.5-94 wiring system, so some things work and others dont (mainly because of different plugs and pinouts) I think that is how it works Gannon

I know that cats get very hot, they are the hottest part of a car, and i think it is normal for them to glow a little after you give the car a complete thrashing. But glowing white (did you notice this at night?) Maybe it is bad, but usually you will feel it, the car wont wanna rev very much. Ive had a blocked cat, the car wouldnt rev over 2k eventually, and that was when i got the grinder out and cut it off. Gannon

If i have a turbo ea82, do i need a 2 core radiator or will i get away with the standard wagon radiator, only running stock boost. Cheers (sorry for the hijack)

Thanks guys Now.. i have the resistor pack bracket from the mpfi and it has the boost sw holder, but i cant remember if there was something in it or not. Where exactly on the wiring loom is the plug for the wgds located, i wanna see if the wire is in the loom somewhere. Gonna try to fire it up soon,... any suggestions on things i should do before i start it. How long can i run it with no water/radiator. I just wanna see if it starts, prob less than a minute. Thanks again Gannon

A few issues i have encountered in my turbo conversion... Does anybody know what ecu pin the WGDS is on a 4 plug ecu? I have 2 diagrams and they both say different things. One says pin 13 and i dont remember the other. Also, where is the WGDS connector located, is it near the resistor pack connector. I am not getting codes for knock sensor or o2 sensor, even though they are not plugged in yet:-\ On an MPFI car, there is a bracket on top of the resistor pack that holds the boost sw on a turbo car, what goes there on an mpfi car? Cheers

I realise that there will be differences, but as gary said, they are built on the same platform, including minor differences to suit the motor they are designed for. Like knock control and a larger fuel map for the turbo, and ability do drive more injectors on the 6cyl one. I was actially surprised that the XT6 ecu was compatable, but...it is almost the same engine with 2 extra cylinders, so the ecu fuel maps are probably larger. Gannon

I have opened and compared both the NA and turbo ecu. The circuit boards are exactly the same, except that the turbo ecu has an extra transistor (this is to drive the WGDS, .... which acts as a control to maintain max turbocharging pressure at higher altitudes, where air density/pressure is less) The turbo ecu also has a 2nd circuit board mounted about 3/4 inch above the main board, this is the knock control unit. They are the only 2 differences that i can see. So i dont see why you couldnt run the na motor with the turbo ecu, the 87+ ecu doesnt have a boost switch to tell it is under boost condition like the 84-86 ecu does. So it should work just like the na ecu, but with KNOCK CONTROL!!! Hope this helps Gannon

I doubt that the 2wd rear disks will work on a 4wd (i may be wrong) A ea82 Ft4wd Dual range 5sp box is about $800 i think from Rising sun automotive, and i think the single range one was about $600. Gannon.

OK, now the big question,... your opinions on if it will look good? 15 White steel rims with low profile rubber on a Metallic red L wagon? I like the idea of 15" but i wonder how they will go on some of our rough roads. I live in a rural area and some of our roads have lots of potholes. Would i just be better off with 14" Im gonna fire up a photo editor and do a photochop and see if i like it. Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming.

Ok,.. good news:banana: For some reason, the MPFI loom already has the knock sensor wire in it, in the correct pin places too, so my wiring loom remains unchanged:clap: Now what i do need to know is 'Do i need the wastegate control solenoid'? Or can i just run the little hose from the compressor outlet to the wastegate? Tried really hard yesterday to make the air box fit, NOPE! Gonna have to find another one. Thanks for all the help! Cheers

I talked to a tyre dealer and he told me that the correct size would be 185/50r15, or 195/50r15 but it would put more strain on my driveshafts:confused: Do 195/60r15 work without rubbing the fenders with standard suspension and how does it affect the speedo? The guy actully recomended 14" wheels cos of how 185/50r15 profile tyres act on rough roads and gravel. I have a gravel driveway thats about 200mts long. What would you recomend??? Cheers

I have looked at a few pics of ea82t engine bays and the air filter hose has a bend in it, mine doesn't,.. guess i will have to look for one. I looked at the wiring again, there is a white wire at the ecu connector at pin number 36, and at one of the round connectors in the engine bay, there is a white wire at pin 14, which is where the knock sensor wire is supposed to be. so i will confirm this when i find my multimeter. So will a gear puller work for moving the flange out on the waterpump? Qtn. 4. Is the wastegate duty solenoid really neccessary? Im under the impression that it is really only for boost compensation at high altitudes. Im sure i have seen threads about it only exists on some models and it can be removed with no hassle. Cheers Gannon

Today i got around to dropping the Vortex turbo motor in the wagon. Now all that is left to be done is fix up the wiring. The problems. 1. My air filter box/MAF wont line up with the intake hose going to the turbo, why? 2. I went to add the wire to the ecu plugs for the knock sensor, but there is already a wire in pin number 36. (im using a NA MPFI loom) When i get a chance, i will get my multimeter and see if i can find where it goes to, maybe the knock sensor was part of the loom all along. 3. Because the waterpump shaft is a different length on the vortex motor, the pulleys wont line up, but it looks like if i use a couple of washers to space it out, the pulleys will match up, is this a bad idea? That is all i can think of at the moment, i will get some pics of the waterpump and filter box asap. Cheers guys

So pros are obviously better looks, tyre selection and handling. What are the cons, i assume that i wont be able to travel on really rough terrain (but i drive on road 95% of the time) subyrally.. what do you mean they dont tuck under the renders, are they 15x6 or are they bigger? what size rubber do you have, i was told that 195/55r15 would give same rolling diameter as my 13's Any other points i should consider?

I was thinking of putting 15" wheels on my car I was thinking something like this..... but with low profile tyres to match the rolling diameter of the stock 185/75r13,... i like being different:cool: What are the advantages of larger rims, also, disadvantages too. Past experience, problems, anything,.... i wanna know it all:slobber: Cheers

I was thinking,...If you get 115hp of a turbo ea82t that had a non boosted hp output of 94hp What if you got a ram4 engine ( yes it is an ea81) that gets a supposed 140hp with just mpfi, imagine how it would go with boost? http://www.ramengines.com/ Power.......140hp@5700\140lbs torque@3500 Just a thought i had

The tacho gets its signal from the ignition coil. so u will need to run a wire from it, not sure if its the pos or neg side though. Ive swapped the dash in my l series. not one of the easiest jobs, but not impossiabe. Unsure of a MY brat setup Gannon.

Hijack in progess:eek: My rear left brake shoes are wearing out a lot quicker than the others, as in they are scraping for the second time in just under 2 months. Is this hill holder related?