ausubaru92

What would be ideal would be to have the normal lever operate the hi/lo range, and have a vacuum servo to engage the 4wd via a switch.

If you are feeling creative, you could fit 2 levers in place of the current one. Have one for 4wd and the other for hi/lo range. If you look at your gearbox, there are 2 selectors that the 4wd lever connects to. If you seperate them, you should be able to have indipendent selection

What about the 'Blackbox Motorsports" headers that Justin (XtremeRX) was making on Ausubaru?

I modified my headers up-pipe when i put the TF035 on my EA82T I removed the restrictive T join below the turbo side head and fabricated my own From this (1 1"2 inch restrictive crush bent join) To this (looks rough on the outside, but is over 1 7/8" diameter inside all the way up to the turbo) A couple more views including my home made dump pipe TF035 installed

On 3 Plug ECU, 1985/86/87.5, Flapper stlye AFM EA82T's there is a knock control unit that is mounted in the left hand front guard. The knock sensor has 2 wires that go to the unit in the guard, along with wires from the distributor and coil. On 4 Plug ECU, 1987.5+, Hotwire style AFM EA82T's the Knock control unit is built into the ECU. The knock sensor has only one wire and goes straight to the ECU

Ok i didnt realise there was that much range. I'll have to ask the guy for more details. What i do know is that they are from 1968-69 Chev 327, are made of steel and were imported into Australia from the USA Come to think of it, he said he wants some within a range of casting numbers, so that might narrow it down a little. Thanks

I have a mate who is after Chev 327 engine parts, most importantly, heads, for his Holden Monaro. Here in Australia, 327 parts are very hard to come by. So does anybody know where we could source some from? Postage can be arranged Many thanks

In Australia, the Touring Wagon is the full trim model. Air con, Power windows/mirrors/steering, Raised Roof, Velour seats, MPFI, 5sp DR, Central Locking, Reading lights and sometimes, a sunroof. Metric rims, tires are nearly impossible to find over here.

With the rust inspection,.. generally surface rust that is bubbling the paint is ok, but they will recemend that you fix it before next year. If there is any rust that has made a hole in any body panel it has to be fixed before rego is passed. Overall its a good thing, as you have piece of mind that all cars on the road are structually sound.

Ummm..... No! The car in that video would not be allowed on public roads. Obviously a farm vehicle In Australia, NSW particularly, we have A Pink Slip- which is a certificate for a yearly roadworthy check. This includes checks on brakes, suspension, body condition (basically means no rust), engine, lights mirrors ect. A Green Slip- Third Party Compulsory Insurance, which covers medical expences in the case of injury during a crash You need both of these to get your car registered, and your car needs to be registered to drive on a public road.

Are you seriously allowed to drive a car in that condition on a public road? If we did that over here (in Australia) we'd get shot.

Hey Adrian Have you checked out this new system on Autospeed.com There are also another Autospeed system too The H2O Way Part 1 I am curious about water injection myself, but dont have the time/resources to experiment with it Gannon (Suparoo from Ausubaru)

There was QuikRX from Australia that built an EA82T that has about 260bhp & 420Nm's of torque with the VF-10 at 18psi. It is now in the hands of a new owner and the last i heard, he was still breaking gearboxes.

What about an EZ30 from a legacy? Apparently, because they have a timing chain inplace of a timing belt, they are much shorter, like not much bigger than an EJ20-25

Sorry, i musta missed the 'never' part.

Are you sure you arent gonna do harm with it lean at WOT? I had a hesitation issue so i hooked up a A/F gauge and i was lean under boost, so i replaced the fuel pressure gauge and set it to 30psi (according to my old gauge) and it now shows rich under boost, no more hesitation

Remember that the EA82 MPFi & Turbo (dual intake) manifold will not fit an EA81, it only fits EA82 MPFI/Turbo heads

Thanks, i will see how i go. I also found this, http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2546/article.html Looks like it will do the trick

Thanks for the schematic, do you have any pictures of the finished product? Just looking at the circuit, i notice that it shows D1 and D2 are joined on the bottom, is that correct? Also, is pin 4 (12V+) connected directly to pin 8? Ive noticed that in my car, the boost soleniod is nearly always pulsing, but as boost reaches 5-7 psi, it gets louder. It makes sense as presslab said

Can you give some details on this circuit, im very interested. What do you mean rear? some turbo models had an exhaust temp sensor at the bottom fof the cat. You will run rich at idle and cruise if you dont have an o2 sensor, but when boosting above about 2psi, the engine goes into 'open loop' mode and ignores the o2 sensor

The EA81 MPFI and the EA81 Turbo system is basically the same as the MPFI and Turbo system of the 3 plug 85-86 EA82MPFI/EA82T So you could get some EA81 Turbo heads, put on a carbed block (for higher compression) and use the 85-86 MPFI ecu and wiring to have an easy to come by EA81 MPFI

Your O2 sensor shouldnt make anydifference when you are on boost. At about 1 psi, the ecu goes into open loop mode and ignores the O2 sensor. A bosch universal one is fine. Im using one.

"Apparently" JDM (japanense domestic market) ones were smaller for a lower boost threshold/turbo lag

What about an EA82?

Just be careful that any fuel that gets into the gauge might rot rubber seals in the pressure gauge.