idosubaru

you got one nutty story...pulled the trans out on the side of the road!!!!

guy i know rebuilt his ER27 and appears his rear main blew out. another guy with an XT Turbo had the same thing happen last year, blew out shortly after installing the new motor. i think...i'll have to clarify, both were during or right after extended highway trips at sustained highway speeds. any ideas or other experiences?

that's where mine are getting too, falling apart and not staying tight to the motor. the left/ride sides tend to "fall forward" after the plastic breaks and the bolts won't hold it on. i'm tired of rigging it and it'll be that much easier to do cam/crank seals i guess. i'll put 'em on if i got them. but i'm not paying $100 for a new set either!

another thumbs up on this mod. i did it about a year and a half ago and it's been great. another time this really shines is when you pull someone out of mud/snow. the TCU sucks in that situation because it cycles the transfer clutches too much and tends to start rutting instead of pulling and doesn't give you great traction particularly if yo'ure pulling from snow/mud. i always flip that switch before i start moving and yank people right out. i have LSD rear too which is nice with the locking clutch packs. i haven't run into a car/truck i haven't been able to pull out yet. if you're off roading, there is no better mod...and it's so freaking easy. i did it on an XT6 4EAT, so same deal with the older subaru's as well. nice post on the pin numbers, i'll be doing this to my OBS as well.

good point starkiller. if you're plugging around here you'll see lots of info about it. that's because the people with problems are seeking out solutions/information. people with perfectly fine running phase 1's aren't on here posting about how their head gaskets "are not" blowing.

i've done the same with no issues, no front covers. that's with a decent amount of offroad driving in mud, snow, dirt, water.... i leave the back covers on, but might try removing them all on my next build/install.

i hated to admit it....i should have made up some heroic story involving major diagnosis, celebrating all the excellent information offered here and having a champagne celebration.

as with any manufacturer there are better and worse options. you just happened to end up with one of subaru's worst engines ever, which isn't all that terrible. the fortunate thing is that the head gaskets don't typically "blow" like other cars. they start leaking internally. typically a slow leak. don't let it overheat and keep coolant in it and you should be fine. i believe the dealer has some sort of "conditioner" they add to the phase I 2.5's to help alleviate this problem. i have no experience or recall much solid info about whether it works or not. all that being said, they really can go at any time. there is nothing that seems to set them off, they just start seeping internally. i'd carry extra containers of antifreeze and consider letting the dealer add the coolant conditioner. i'm helping someone local fix a 2.5 with a blown gasket. it's not the original owner so i can't be sure this is the original head gasket, but the car has 147,000 or 157,000 (can't remember) miles on it. he's been driving it awhile like that, just keeps adding coolant. the new headgaskets fix the problem, so repeats are rare.

while i'm stoked the problem is solved and it was easy....i owe appologies for this one. there was no fuse. i don't know how that happened, i haven't touched the fuses in awhile? thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction. crazy shat.

agree - make sure the drain hole and tube are not clogged at all.

XT6 thanks! you guys are smoking....woo hoo! i'll look for that ground.

so one of my grounds on the lighting system is bad, or it could be any ground on the car? i have the FSM, will that show the grounds for the lighting system...i think it does. thanks. and torxx....the rear lights are fine, all identical. sounds like ground issue and not relay....glad i asked, i would have started looking at those! i'll check grounds tomorrow. thanks a ton!

struts are cheap enough, buy a used one of those also and replace everything. if you have another ride, just take it apart and see what's going on. remove the wheel. take a picture and post it here so we can see it. i can't picture the bottom of the strut being displaced without anything else "moving" with it, that's why i say replace the entire rear hub assembly with everything on it. not too bad, i've done it once, wasn't that bad and they aren't that expensive. if the strut is damaged that should be visually obvious i would think. the "wheel bent" scenario's i've seen have never involved a bent shock, not to say it can't happen, that's just my experience. i've had control arms and the like get bent on wheel impacts and bends. but anything is possible.

not cheesy at all. many would try to sell it without bothering to fix it right. you're doing it the right way, congrats.

Wires were: Red/Green Stripe, Red/Bluie Stripe, Red/White Stripe i've installed 2 used units and one new unit...all with the same results. off to check the rear tail light....

i'm at work, i'll go check in a little bit. if the tail light is dim then that's the same issue you had? thanks a ton! TWO WEEKS, wow that sucks, i better check how long i got on my inspection ticket. thanks again.

what do you mean by bad wire? the actual wire is broke, frayed, insulation gone or bad connection where it's bolted to the car? i'll check them out. i'll check the grounding points tomorrow. what you're saying sounds pertinent. thanks!!!

great idea hotdog, i never though of that. are the buttons on the shift lever?

if anyone thinks they can make sense of this.....here's the measurements i took: all measurements were taken with the harness that i was measuring being disconnected. i was too dumb to try to measure it while connected! I'm calling the low beams and high beams A & B because i can't tell which is which since the inside indicator doesn't work. setting A is either low or high and B is the other. A is the same setting for the P/S and D/S measurements. P/S (p/s disconnected for all of the following) Lights OFF , D/S disconnected..................12.19 / 12.20 / 12.20 Lights OFF , D/S connected......................11.84 / 0 / 11.84 Lights ON (setting A), D/S connected..........1.72 / 11.48 / 1.69 Lights ON (setting A), D/S disconnected Lights ON (setting , D/S connected.........11.58 / 1.32 / 11.58 Lights ON (setting , D/S disconnected D/S (d/s disconnected for all of the following) Lights OFF , P/S disconnected.....................12.19 / 12.20 / 12.20 Lights OFF , P/S connected........................11.84 / 0 / 12.21 Lights ON (setting A), P/S connected............0.13 / 0.12 / 11.97 Lights ON (setting A), P/S disconnected......11.70 / 0.06 / 11.97 Lights ON (setting , P/S connected............0.12 / 0.12 / 11.96 Lights ON (setting , P/S disconnected .......0.29 / 0 / 12.00

I got an inspection ticket for this, so it's time to get it done right. I'm trying to find out why my P/S headlight is very dim, almost out. I was reading voltages and got a zillion numbers but don't know what they mean and the wiring diagram is confusing me, i'm not getting anywhere. One interesting note: when i unplug the D/S light the P/S light goes out. If i unplug the P/S light though the D/S light stays on? what does that mean? anyone know how to test the 3 terminals and what i'm looking for? lights on, lights off, harness plugged in, not plugged in, one side plugged in, one side not...lots of options.

i'm looking at a '97 2.2 (i also have a 98 2.2) swap into a 1996 DOHC 2.5. i'm aware of the updated head gasket, this project does not warrant a head gasket replacement. sensors will swap according to those that have done it......i'll install the single port 2.2 header and then the charcoal canisters/ CEL are the only issues to look into from what im' seeing of others that have done it. my questions still stand....

if EA82T's are that available, tear it up. i never see any here. tons of 90's subarus, but no 80's at all.

$35 rear hubs: asheville, NC 1 828 667 2239 Forest-City, NC 1 800 333 7202 Iron Station, NC 1 866 732 6174 call to verify it will work...ABS or not, ask for the entire assembly, and ask them to ship if it's not close.

sounds weird, got a picture? i would guess the axle is fine, the cv joint might be stressed depending where the deformation is occurring, but i don't think that's an issue. source an entire used rear hub assembly and swap it out, along with a new rear strut if that's jacked up. i'd bet a rear hub assembly could be had for $100 at the most. the yards around here you can go pull that yourself for $35. plus installation if yo'ure not doing it yourself. figure another $100-$200 for that. roughly of course....

nothing was touched...spark plug wires or anything? wires on the right cylinders? wires seated tight? would probably get a CEL if that was the problem though. O2 sensors plugged in?