idosubaru

1988 and earlier GL hatch are EA81 and I don’t think will work. But GL wagons will work. Look for 1990 loyale rear axles.

You can use any EA82 rear axle. Should be readily available new or used. EA82s were available 1985-1994 in Loyale, GL, RX, XT models and others.

1. Yes your diff lock isn’t working 2. It should drive and the orange light in the dash should turn on 3. Crawl under the car and manually pull the cable to lock it. It’s on the passengers side of the trans. Unbolt the cable bracket so the cable will move by hand. Then move it. If that doesn’t work - move it back to the other position just in case it needs worked back and forth It may be working fine. On XT6s, sometimes the system doesn’t engage while sitting still. The car needs to move a little to engage. yours may not engage simply because it’s not moving. So I wouldn’t try to diagnose it until you get a new axle. Check the fuse, switch, then vacuum hoses, and cable to see if it’s seized. The switch is in a good place to get things spilled on it. Driving without a rear axle won’t matter at all in this case. Absolutely zero damage will occur to the center diff. It is going to spin the rear driveshaft the same way no matter what - there will be zero change or difference, the trans can not even “know” the axle is missing. The center differential is locked and does the same thing wether there is a rear axle in place or not. The rear diff will be loaded probably exclusively to one side but that’s not going to matter either.

Leave the sensors on so you’re not leaving an open hole.

Yeah only a certain person would want to swap axles. I would try to get somewhere where you can coast into the same situation that causes the noise and see if it does it coasting in neutral to see if it's only related to the angle or if it needs to be under load to do it. Does it sound like it's a "corner" sound - like at the knuckle/wheel bearing/axle/bushing or does it sound a little bit centered like maybe it's the inner CV? The inner axle joint often causes a lower frequency duller sounding "knock" than the outer which tends to "click click click" faster. But I guess either way if you can narrow down whether it's the left or right side it doesn't much matter - either way you're probably replacing the axle. Have the axles ever been replaced? If they're aftermarket axles then have a party if they lasted a couple years, that's pretty good for those trash heaps. Install a new Subaru unit or reboot a used Subaru axle. aftermarkets have an incredibly high failure rate.

You can use any EA82(T) sway bar.

Oh really? I didn’t know that, interesting.

The oil pump can't leak in a way that oil doesn't leak externally thought right? If it's not dripping on the ground then I don't think there's anyway the oil pump can "consume" it.

I would guess if you fill it every day or every two days you’ll have the same oil consumption. But since it’s loosing so much you can test it and know by the end of the week.

The top of the pan does have more volume and the lower portions have baffle plates taking up space. So theoretically the level will drop at different rates on the dipstick for the same rate of volume loss. At first guess it seems it may indeed loose it “slower” at first due to volume and baffle plates mentioned above. But I have no idea how much that is, or if it’s even practically significant. Either way, an eggregious oil leak is obviously a problem that’s not going away.

It does it while coasting in neutral? Rotate tires and see if it "moves". You could also swap axles from side to side and see if the symptoms cease, change, or move....but that's a lot of needless work.

Get an 00-04 EJ25 block (or 99 forester or Impreza) and bolt your EJ22 heads to it. if you’re still amped to install the worst block Subaru ever made..... All 1996-1998 EJ25s and 1999 Legacy and Outback EJ25s. It’s that simple, if you have to ask a question, don’t, it’s unimportant. Just follow that list. Its only “complicated” (but not) when going the other way because of the variations of EJ22s. EJ25s don’t have all those variations, all of those listed EJ25s are easily interchangeable. 97 EJ22 is single port so you’ll need a dual port exhaust manifold. If EGR doesn’t match you’ll get a check engine light but it doesn’t matter, runs and drives fine. That is easy to work around anyway.

Great beast, thanks! I think this yard will let me look for OEM axles which is all I use. Id guess any 90s work, but I’ll look for early FWD like yours. I’ll check if 93 axles work in 02 knuckles but Ive used a zillion 00+ axles in 90s knuckles, pretty sure that’s fine.

Before I go to the yard, do you have a hunch of whether: 1. Auto/manual matters? You probably said at some point but what were yours? 2. FWD/AWD matters? 3.90-94 or 95-98 matters?

Yeah the TPS is the Achilles heal, I’ve struck out helping people with those even 13 years ago.

Yeah look for one and buy it. I’ve seen two decent ones for sale in the last year within 1-2 hours from me and I’m not looking for them. Though one was prices extravagantly, like $7,500 or something. Look south and west for rust free anomalies haha. They are good commuting and long trip cars....if you don’t have tons of gear, kids, etc. Some of the “low mileage” older Subaru’s I’ve gotten or been around seem to have quite a few oddball failures - unexpected plastic cracking, seizing cables (throttle, speedo, brake, heater), more electrical issues with components that typically have low failure rates..etc. I feel like sitting around doesn’t help things unless it’s a really nice controlled environment and consistent “sitting” around. Don’t get me wrong those are minor issues and I can fix anything but rust. And I’m all about considering them still, but for a decent daily driver I’m not feigning over those low mileage spectaculars either. Find a nice one, drive it and when you’re then madly in love plan ahead for your next garage queen!

That sway bar has nothing to do with it. It seems theres a good chance this isn’t steering rack related at all. How positive are you it is within the rack? Outer CVs click when turning. Inner axle joints knock and feel loose when turning. Those are far more likely than steering rack. Subaru’s racks rarely have issues.

I know you said it, but it’s positively routed properly? And hooked up to the pedal box in the proper location with the right fitting/stacking sequence of pin/cable/box or cable/box/pin? I’ve driven a few hundred miles without a clutch cable, fun times lol.

No it hasn’t, yes it can. There are no kits or write ups or easy methods. You’ll need mad skills or a thick wallet - which was your plan? Custom mounts, trans adapter, and fittings for radiator, AC, alt, steering, and then custom wiring.

In the shaft does seem most likely. Depends how you do it. XT6 trans stub/inner axle spline count is the same as an EJ trans so an EJ axle and knuckle swaps right into an XT6. EA nonturbo spline count is different and needs addressed. In the US 93 FWD Impreza axles have the same spline count as EA82 trans. If you had that vehicle you might have options, if not then EJ22 axles wouldn’t directly swap and you’re into addressing it some other way like custom axles. If it’s an auto, swap the stubby shaft. They’re all the same for autos from like 1985-2002 or something like that. This doesn’t matter but for clarity a few of us retain the stock XT6 calipers on EJ hubs, not EJ brakes. XT6 trans spline count is the same 25 as EJ so the inner joints of the axles are interchangeable. EA is a 23 spline different

Thanks John, axles are only $20 locally and I don't know where the axle length difference happens - the inner joint, outer, or shaft itself.

Okay, awesome. Mine are 00-04 axles and while Leg/OB are way more common here there's no telling what these axles are from. I'll take it apart first to have a look and look for some earlier axles.

Sure thing John, thanks buddy!

chux and John using EJ axles and knuckles without issue and I’ve done it before too: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/84505-legacy-knuckle-in-ea82-5-lug-conversion/#comment-709813 I’ll pull and check the axle and wheel bearing. Can the axle be too tight and could it hurt the diff? Any ideas @Numbchux ? or @john in KY

I’m not familiar with the Duty C causing all those codes. Duty C is typically not that critical - it won’t show that many codes and drive poorly. Were the solenoids you replaced positively the right year and model? It’s a 4 cylinder right ?