idosubaru

Where do you widen? cut and weld or widen at the body side bushing? I think lots of folks have bolted EJ knuckles and axles to XT6s and I’ve done it before as well but maybe something else was different I’m not recalling.

No TCU failure isn’t common on Subarus. I’d guess solenoid too but guessing isn’t ideal?!

Don’t know. Wonder if rust could get in the trans and clog stuff up? Seems unlikely but are those lines pre or post filter? Valve bodies occasionally fail on 2005+ EATs.

You’re using the 6 cylinder FSM right? 4 and 6 cylinder are different Any sign of transmission replacement? Id check the rear diff ratio to make sure someone didn’t previously install a different rear diff. Rotate wheel and count ratio of rear diff input driveshaft revolutions to wheel revolutions to get ratio. I think H6s are 4.11. I’m unsure how to differentiate those measurements, seems like they don’t rule anything out or confirm. A. The duty C is failing under load, temps, use. B. The wiring is heating up under load. C. The TCU is the culprit. It’s probably not the TCU but I’d probably swap the TCU first unless GD or someone else can point more specifically. TCU is plug and play and they’re dirt cheap and takes 10 minutes. Use one from a 2001 or 2002 H6 nonVDC. I could possibly mail/sell you a TCU and refund your money when you ship it back if it’s not needed.

There is no relearning or flashing. If the issue is fixed the TCU instantly sees that, the light goes out, and shifting returns to normal. You don’t need to do anything at all, the TCU recovers on its own. *** so you were able to read the trans codes? You had two trans codes, 0700 (from the ECU), and a duty C solenoid code (for the trans TCU), replaced all the solenoids, and still have the same two trans codes? The transmission will shift perfectly fine with a failed Duty C solenoid. The P0700 tells us this is more than a duty C solenoid issue. The duty C solenoid is not located with the group of solenoids inside the pan. Did you only replace the solenoids in the pan or you also removed the rear and replaced the Duty C solenoid? Probably one of the following: 1. Ideally tell us: a. All existing engine codes b. All existing trans codes (the exact numbers...P0XYZ) 2. What year vehicle is this? 3. Check the trans pan for damage or signs of prior damage, repair or replacement. 4. There’s a wiring issue. Inside the pan is common if the pan was previously damaged. Or rodent wiring damage - chewed wiring. Trace the trans wires with a VOM or follow all the wiring carefully to the TCU. 5. If it’s a 2004 or earlier, swap in another TCU. They’re plug and play. 6. Was there ever any major repair, engine or trans swap, or accident in the car?

Just finished installing all EJ knuckle, strut, axles on a 2” or maybe 2.5” lifted XT6. It is making a loud, ominous, metallic screeching sound that’s definitely not tires or brakes. This is just driving down a long driveway, don’t want to drive it like this. The axle is so tight it could barely be installed and the inner cup can’t be pried back even a millimeter for the inner joint roll pin to line up. The inner cup seems bottomed out and won’t move even the slightest. The wheel bearing side is fully seated and looks normal. Oddly I’ve driven it 6 months or so with one side converted. It was fine all winter with EJ suspension on one side and XT6 on the other. I finished the other side today. I assume the axle is too long and pushing the bearings/knuckle/diff or something too hard? Though that doesn’t explain why one side was fine all winter - unless the axles are different? Im using 02 Outback axles in an 02 or 04 Impreza knuckle - maybe that’s the issue? maybe I need a 90s axle or Impreza axle? Or this shouldn’t matter and maybe something is wrong with the axle?

Those 00-04 rear upper bushings commonly wear, seize, and squeak. Just annoying and can sometimes impact alignment. Replace the entire set of bolt, washer, etc hardware. People have listed the parts needed online. Maybe Texas is different but they all need cut or torched off up here. Check the tie rods directly for play. Push pull pry. Seems to me it’s usually the inners. Check boot condition. They often can last forever and be reused if you wish or just replace it. I use Subaru parts and count turns to retain alignment. You can also pull a string and make sure the measurements to the wheel are the same before and after. Just did an at home toe alignment this morning in 30 minutes. Is it possible the wheel bearing play and tie rod play could be the same thing or hard to differentiate? i have a wheel bearing set and press them out and in with that using an air compressor/impact. Never done it by hand but looks atrocious.

2. The psi alone doesn’t tell the whole story. GD goes at length to describe why the Subaru bypass is lame because it allows unfiltered oil into the engine, and overall is a cheap filter and WIX better. You can find his posts about the subject by searching his username and. “Oil filter”. You can use google search to just search USMB. 3. You misread what I wrote. it wasn’t level. Yes Subaru’s read low when facing “uphill” and high when refacing downhill. Yes that’s a problem if you’re going to attempt to be precise. Scientists don’t guess. Put water in a pan and tilt it - you’ll see the level can change depending on the location of the dipstick. you mis-read what I wrote or didn’t catch the essence of what I was saying. When oil is room temperature it is thicker and doesn’t flow as well. You pour room temperature oil into the engine and not all of the oil makes it into the pan, so it measures low, and you see that low reading and add more oil....exactly what you said happened. The room temperature oil is thick and laying in, and on the sides of, the valve covers and doesn’t flow all the way to the pan because it’s not 160 degrees. Drive the car and the oil gets hot and flows better and drains into the pan and a higher percentage of the original added volume makes it to the pan. Normally this would be inconsequential particularly in summer with modern low weight oils. but you seem committed to fractions of millimeters so it needs mentioned

1. Benign. Subaru’s run 200,000 miles on whatever is on sale. Buy another if you’re worried about it. 2. Use a WIX filter. Don’t know. Could be a filter change or just for logistics/inventory reasons. 3. Oil doesn’t fully drain until it’s heated to operating temps where it more easily drains into the pan. Or it wasn’t level. 4. No, if they need a jack to change the oil then they need a diet, a real job, or visibility and lighting for the video equipment. Hahaha.

new Subaru block is going to have a much better batting average and local warranty, though you won’t need it. I do it, used heads from a blown block are commonly reused on new blocks. I wouldn’t want that company without Subaru specific experience and focus providing a block with out of state shipping “warranty”. But it does sound somewhat like your hands are tied in terms of options.

LOL LOL LOL I knew you’d ask about that price! There are at least two sources for cheaper batteries. Keep looking. Until last year I paid $60 for batteries at advance auto. Use a $40 online discount code on $100 battery, buy online and pick up in store. I’ve done it on my phone in the parking lot. The code was TRT41, I used it dozens of times. But that code is gone and their prices went up. You’re not nearly excited enough about the free windshield wiper fluid.

Should have hit the parts website first. All 1988-2002 EA82, ER27, EG33, EJ and EZ auto trans have the same stub shaft and circlip. Circlip: 805329010 Stub shaft Part Number: 38415AA070 Supersession(s): 38415AA030; 38415AA080

All this money talk and you’re buying wiper fluid?! You're in for a treat! Many gas stations have FREE squeegees, find one, or carry a box of DIY wet free napkins from McDonalds! free and take less time than battery research, equipment, and blowing up batteries with salt, and it’s free free free! I commend your focus on data. Get some good data and let the world know. data driven, useful, and economic info is good. Keep in mind battery life is erratic and statistically a sample size of a few is all but meaningless. If my battery lasts 5 years and cost $74 that’s .00074 cents per mile, one of the most benign costs of vehicle ownership. NICO genius boosts = who cares when I replace my battery! maximize battery life with no risk of stranding, multiple uses and functionality, all in a tiny package. Win win win win win......

I need an XT6 automatic front axle stub. All XT6 have the 4EAT trans and same spline count as EJs. Are the stubs the same as EJs?

Subaru parts are built by other companies like NTN, NSK, etc to Subaru’s specifications. These companies can then also supply those to other companies for resale. The quality doesn’t have to be the same for Subaru supplied parts and aftermarket supplies parts for the exact same part. but Subaru is small, and parts market not discerning enough, to make it worth their time to do anything but make one part for both. Though storage, packaging, delivery, and other non manufacturing qualities factors could skip Subaru QA. But this is all uncertain conjecture...moving along.... that doesn’t matter - the point is that yes those parts are available from other companies and yes you can often find the Subaru OEM pulleys aftermarket. Like AISIn kits. One issue is suppliers putting together timing kits don’t keep using the same company for the same parts. Gates could use OEM pulleys for a time and then other brands later, it’s still the same kit for the same motor for their parts catalog. That moving target can be problematic. But buying one at a time and verifying the manufacturer will help get the right part each time if you’re unsure what a given company supplies.

This is a brilliant synopsis of blocks and rings. I owe y'all a dinner or 5.

I’ve used a number of GMB kits before and have a few GMB timing boxes now. in general I’d avoid them for long term vehicles, valuable cars, interference engines, etc. I’ll install them on rusted out beaters that have maybe two years left before the frame rots through. Don’t get me wrong, they’re decent enough and don’t have high failure rates so you’d probably get by fine. but nearly every aftermarket kit has higher failure rates than Subaru OEM. GMB doesn’t have a magic supply of OEM cheap parts no one else can find. Those two piece tensioners are like $150, id wonder if that’s s knock off or rebuild and looks like OEM. When it comes to parts that will strand you, or interference engines, I prefer the highest quality you can get if they don’t cost much more anyway. If someone begged me to install a GMB kit for them and they want to save a few bucks on your car i would but first I recommend to save a few dollars: 1. Subaru belt and pulleys only (no tensioner) 2. Subaru belt and the lower cogged idler (by far it is the one that fails) and I’ll inspect the the others. The other ones very rarely fail. If you can DIY they can be inspected in 2 years or 40,000 miles in less than an hour, they’re super easy. Those two piece tensioners don’t fail, I’ve never seen it but I’m sure it happens sometimes. They were routinely reused and I’d even convert new Subaru’s to the old style before they got old. If yours is in good shape, the seal isn’t wet - It happens so rarely and you already have a water pump, just buy the timing belt and pulleys from Subaru. I’d almost rather keep the OEM original tensioner and not install a new aftermarket unless it’s OEM new (not rebuilt) 3. If they didn’t like those options I’d still install the GMB kit without much concern but to me there’s just no compelling reason to do so and depending on the car/person I’d tell them I’m not touching it if there’s issues ! Haha That said - I only work for free and don’t charge labor, so it’s easier for people to accept the higher cost parts. If you’re paying labor then the higher Costs changes the decision making process.

i wouldn’t mention this normally but since you’re doing a swap and have a lot of questions, clarity may help. I think you mean final drive ratio, not gear ratio (meaning the different gearing of 1st, 2nd, 3rd...). Final drive ratio is the front and rear differential ratios and is independent of the transmission gear ratios. You’ll want the front and rear diff ratios to match. And you mean differential, not axle. The final drive ratio is dictated by the front and rear differentials not the axles...but I understand in truck world an entire rear assembly is an “axle”. The final drive ratio should be the easy part, subaru didn’t use many different ones in the 80s. All 88 EA82/ER27 are 3.7 or 3.9 and interchange with each other. EA82 nonturbo manual should be 3.9. A quick USMB search shows EA81 might be 3.9. If that’s the case you don’t need to do anything for final drive ratios, the front and rear diffs match. But like mentioned - you’re going backwards from most in terms of installing that 4 speed.

the kit pictured is a 1996 and earlier US market Subaru timing kit, is that what you're looking for? buy it, i'ts got everything you need except the thermostat. you can also buy from subaru if parts sourcing is a problem.

yes, he's talking about tips and rosebuds and propane from a bottle can't cut.

that will work. probably just a ratio difference.

Probably OEM or KYB struts and new, or stiffer, rear springs.

Sure thing I’ve seen them. Didn’t think they’d get hot enough to help much. Good to know.

I think it was already said but scour the local listings and see where your price falls. The lower down the list you are the quicker it’ll sell. Now is a good time to sell and it’s getting better. Hang tight.

yep, just get good at bringing it up fast and moving on quick. between mine and selling for other people, I've sold a couple dozen subaru's over the years. at least locally craigslist seems to be loosing traction/market share and has more scammers, etc. i might be done with it in the near future. one of the major online venues like cars.com you can list and only pay if you sell the car through them. that's worth tossing it up if you've got a vehicle that's being looked at there. there ends up being a lot of window shoppers but they're not annoying at least. they just ask a question and disappear because they emailed 20 other people or end up wanting a dealer.