idosubaru

I doubt another arm is going to help get that metal insert off the shaft. Rock it and it’ll come. Remove the motor assembly and do it indoors if needed. Though it may not pull through with that insert on the shaft... Or replace with a used one, they never fail so they’re nearly worthless if you can find one being parted or pick n pull. Or find the cheapest close one here: Www.car-part.com

Was going to ask but I checked - Rock Auto does have Beck arnley boots $14.23 It was worth a shot trying the dealer, maybe he’s not the normal guy. Dealer I go to is sharp and goes out of their way, for me anyway. But They’ve had guys at the counter fill in fairly often who knows why - sickness, busy shop, running errands, unloading trucks, I’m sure they’re busy. Maybe you just got someone shifted around like that.

thanks, just curious. i often order Subaru stuff locally so i don't do a ton of online OEM stuff.

Agreed - verify fans and system is properly burped. And make sure the condenser in front of the radiator isnt' all plugged with debris, leaves, bug, dirt, bent all to !%)*%)( from an accident or something. Is there any trend with the overheating - only when going up hill, idling, RPM's, highway?

You like to order from them? I never have it's just the lowest priced one i saw.

yep that needs to come off. dremel, nut splitter, channel locks, vice grips. spray it down with some good penetrant like liquid wrench or PB blaster if you have it. that is just pressed down onto the splined shaft, it is not threaded, so you would be better to try to "rock it back and forth" to get it off than turn it. twisting/tearing it off might be harder due to the splines and may damage them as well, but i'm uncertain. i'm just picturing - if that arm was still attached you *would not* turn the entire wiper arm 360 degrees around that splined shaft. i would probably use large channel lock and grab it head on with the handles pointing directly away from the glass instead of parallel to it. squeeze tight and see if you can rock it off. it may literally take like 100 times probably and not feel like it's moving at first and then slowly come off. what he said:

I shouldn't have posted part number as i think they've had about 1393 revisions, i think outback boots are the same as my 1989 XT6. $54 doesn't make sense. Subaru OEM is only $24 with free shipping here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-OEM-2004-Outback-Tie-Rod-Boot-34137AE020/162578737328?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AOutback&epid=1811289123&hash=item25da72a8b0:g:JcMAAOSwFbJZ4b5S&vxp=mtr

that's a good test. subaru heater core failure is very rare. internal headgasket failure is more likely. when it starts overheating look for bubbles in the overflow tank and turn your heat on high - if it starts out smoking hot and in a minute or so gets cool - those two things are signs of internally blown HG. those headgaskets are very easy to replace relatively speaking.

Remove the wiper arm hold down nut Remove all of the remaining wiper arm bits - these are splined/pressed on and often challenging to remove. 1. It sounds like there's still some wiper arm stuck to the bolt shaft that needs removed. 2. Or the motor assembly was damaged in some way and is "pressed back" into the hatch area from whatever caused it to break in the first place (which would have required a rather significant force to break the arm to begin with). Check the stud for play - push/pull on it and see if it moves indicating something else is compromised. If that's not it, then some questions: Ideally you post a picture or google image search existing pictures as i'm having a hard time envisioning what's happening. You're positive yours is a 2005? 2004 is a different generation than 2005 so make sure the date is precise. Is there still some residual part of the old wiper on the stud (what you're calling a bolt)? If it is - get that piece off. Can you compare the "end" of the new part to the end of the old broken plastic part to see if it's same or different? if you need additional parts www.car-part.com is another source if the transmission or something is damaged.

it's either a 3.9 or 4.11. in general i think 2.5's are 4.11 and 2.2's are 3.9 so his is likely a 3.9, but there have been some variations to that over the years. www.car-part.com and look for your transmission and also rear differential - some of the listings will show the final drive ratio for the trans/rear diff. try to confirm it with more than one reading though, don't just go by the first one you see in case it's wrong. if you get the rear differential to match you can swap both and use any legacy/outback MT from 1995-1999 and any impreza/forester from 1995-1998. 1999 forester/imp and 2000+ are Phase II vehicles - i'm not sure if that matters or not...but it's been discussed before if that's an option you're interested in.

Gotcha. Maybe certain conditions amplify it. I had the FWD fuse in my automatic recently on a 65 mph long distance drive and got 28.5 which is really high for an automatic XT6. Previously I've never seen any difference, as have few others. You also have quite a different motor so that might change things too. Looks like about 150 hp - how does that compare to what a stock EJ22 would show on that same test/set up? Did you use EJ20 heads for compression, flow, or both?

Oh yeah, I didn’t mean them being stuck together was due to angle. I just meant it’s possible and rather easy during an engine pull for the shaft to ride through the seal at an angle and bear weight on it.

agreed - i meant to say earlier i'd look for 20"as a minimum - or more and lean towards more if you can get it. i use blocks enough on mine that i'd definitely be going higher next one i get. you'll never regret the extra distance.

go ahead and toss up what you end up getting/find since this looks like a recent change you stumbled into, as i'm positive i've got Beck Arnley boots multiple times, i probably even have some in my garage still. i'd be interested to see what you get, i guess i'll just end up with Subaru when the time comes.

and absolutely what he said - if you don't properly seat the torque converter you will ruin your tranmission installing the engine. people do it all the time. the engine flexplate and torque converter should not touch at all when installing - if that's happening do not force it, pull the engine out and reseat. the torque converter bolts and flexplate don't touch. you install the engine, there's a small gap, and the flexplate bolts draw the two together. with that visual in mind - you can pre-measure your flexplate distance from bellhousing and TC receiving bolt distance from bellhousing and make sure clearance exists as you continue to follow OCEI77's directions above for fully seating the TC.

AT and torque converter have tons of quarts of fluid in them, that's not a big deal. Normally what you're describing isn't a big deal but we also have no idea what happened or what's going on. shouldn't be lifting the engine such that the TC shaft is compressing the sealing surface/edge of the seal. It's unlikely you pulled it out perfectly flush, more than likely the shaft came out at an angle. Since we have no idea how much angle or wrestling took place is there any chance the seal was damaged? Check seal for damage. Or if the TC disconnected from the shaft then you'll also need to reseat the shaft and torque converter and make sure there isn't a spring clip floating around somewhere it's not supposed to be.

They go from a frustrating 36 attempt debacle to easy 1 attempt repairs if you grab a pair of pliers and do this: 1. pull the bottom lip of the tie rod boot over the steering rack so just the bottom is seated in the groove properly. 2. while holding that tightly so it doesn't pull off - rotate the boot 180 degrees so the part you just pulled over the bottom is now on the top. 3. while keeping your hand on that top part so it doesn't pull off - pull the lower lip up and over the steering rack with pliers.

Weird - i've definitely bought tie rod boots from them before and nearly positive i've bought beck arnley tie rod boots. But they seem to have drifted into the abyss? Get one from Subaru part number: 31232GA082 They're all over ebay, amazon, online subaru parts or get them locally - they cover like 1980's to 2004 or something so reasonable chance of them having them locally.

nice work on the vehicle. if you want this to remain a "build thread" you might want to post specific questions/topics about your current issue in another thread. subaru rear diff failure is exceptionally rare. most people who replace a rear diff end up still having the same issue, so investigate closely. AWD vehicles still have all the additional weight of the transmission, driveshaft, carrier assembly, rear diff, rear cross member, rear axles and hubs and rotational drag as well, none of that disappears with a fuse so the fuse typically doesn't improve fuel mileage. more likely to be caused by an artifact of your current mechanical issue, change in driving habits (which often occurs when interested people install a fuse or have mechanical issues/concerns), or wanting better gas mileage "suspicion often creates what is suspects".

yep i'd be looking around 20".

did you check www.car-part.com? any 2.2 from 1990-1998 from an impreza or legacy will work - with the EGR considerations. EGR - if yours has EGR and you want to keep it functional - then get one with EGR or you'll have to swap your drivers side head. 1995 - auto's have EGR, MT's do not 1996-1998 - it's a mixed bag and you just have to ask or check about EGR to confirm. 1990-1994 i'm unsure EGR - if yours has EGR and you don't care to work around it - then get any engine and do a simple work around for the EGR. EGR - if yours doesn't have EGR - then you can use any engine with or without EGR. 1996-1998 are single port exhaust - but they're the same engine and totally interchangeable, just grab the exhaust manifold with it, it bolts right up the car/stock exhaust. 1997-1998 are interference engines so take care of the timing components.

good job not being loud and abrasive on your request, well done! i would view this forum a little different than others. every other forum i've visited is hard to wade through - full of anecdotal comments and hard to find the folks that are really good at what they're talking about. this forum is weird - there are actual shop owners and people with extensive experience *on your exact engine* that can talk circles around most other subaru people. Gloyale and GD and ivansimports and Cougar and fairtax4me and shawn and..more. - there's some really exceptional contributors here. i get that attitude isn't necessary but also realize they're donating their time and freely helping - very few people with their experience and skill set are doing that, i think it's pretty freaking cool. they could go flip or fix an extra car and make $500 - $1,000 instead of clicking on people's threads. i very much appreciate that they're here - it's an exceptional resource nearly impossible to find in any other mechanical forum (tractors, boats, american cars, trucks...)

that's awesome.

I ran the new line like the old one, not inside the vehcile, I’d be surprised if he ran it inside the car. That is tricky determining which line is which. If you jiggle it around once you start loosening it you can tell. I bet theres a picture online somewhere or you can tell by Subarus explodes view parts diagrams?

Nice save. Body is good but crossmember was bad? Thats just awesome. If I’m doing that at 70 then sweet momma. But I hope you can abois those debacles they’re miserable.