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idosubaru

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Everything posted by idosubaru

  1. Those two pulleys with the weird bearing part number are additionally weird because the bearings don't press out. They need milled/drilled out as they're staked in, or I presume they are as I'm not a bearing expert. took mine to an automotive shop with a press and he said he couldn't get the bearings out with their press for me to measure them.
  2. Yeah needs a machine shop. I posted the bearing numbers on the face seals, they're listed above. I have talked to a couple bearing suppliers and two or three NSK (original bearing manufacturer) employees and none of them could get anywhere on those bearings. there was a company selling a few sets on eBay. They were $299/$399 for a long time until the last year or two when they jumped to $699 or $799. I talked to an employee who said he'd send me a picture of the pulleys but never did. I wanted to see what they were. The eBay pics weren't high enough resolution to see. maybe they were just OEM supplier stuff they buy in bulk and repackage?
  3. how well do 30 year old EA82 turbo's run anyway? i'm almost sorry, i couldn't resist...but seriously, maybe it'll blow less oil, coolant, headgaskets, heads, and time
  4. I can't follow your posts or what your question is exactly. That button keeps the head lights up, that's it. It has nothing to do with turning them on. It makes it easier to flash your lights at someone - otherwise you can't flash your lights very effectively if you have to wait for them to come up, turn on, turn off, go down, come up....etc. Or if you want to leave them up in the winter, etc. If you want them to stay down - then leave that button OFF and never touch it. Then they'll never come up unless you turn your headlight switch on. If the button is bad - replace/repair it. They're a bit tedious to repair but you can disassemble and generally repair quite a few issues that commonly occur in those stalk mounted buttons.
  5. sounds like a plan. doing it yourself or let the shop do it? Gloyale says those gates kits suck, chinese garbage i think he calls them, but OEM are pricey so take your pick. another option is once you see how easy it is - just plan on checking the pulleys once a year or something, but most people would probably just leave well enough alone and forget about it it's more of a fact than a consensus, you just need to find someone that definitely knows older Subarus and doesn't just think they know or think they know how to look it up.
  6. yes - that ones fails the most and usually has the crunchy bearings. it's like $35-ish
  7. 1996 2.2 engines are not interference. But - 1996 2.5 engines and 1997+ EJ22 are interference so it would be easy to get confused since there is "one" 1996 engine that's inteference and 2.2 liter engines are interference starting the next year. Here's the order of parts you should replace based on which ones actually fail the most often on that engine: 1. Timing belt and timing pulleys - the pulleys loose grease and seize and then break the belt. These can leave you stranded. Most mechanics are okay with you bringing in a part like this - they'd rather do it right and you do the leg work on older parts than you just replacing the belt only on the cheap. $120 for a kit on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Gates-TCK254-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/B000C2ULA0/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1502469326&sr=8-17&keywords=subaru+gates+timing+belt+kit Reuse the original bolts on the car, don't use the bolt that comes in that kit. Alternate option instead of replacing the pulleys: If you have a generic grease gun (or buy one, they're $10 or so) you can be ultra thrify and just get a $2 needle fitting and inject grease into the pulleys yourself and not replace them. I do this on subaru's older than yours where timing pulleys are not available anywhere. then you only have to buy a cheap timing belt. A shop won't do this, you're on your own for that service (though it's easy). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47067-repacking-timing-and-other-pulley-bearings-a-solution-for-our-old-pulleys/ 2. Reseal the oil pump (crank seal, oil pump oring, sealant), replace cam seals, replace cam cap orings. You can investigate a little now- is the timing cover wet underneath? If it's bone dry then none of these are leaking and you could skip this step. These generally speaking just start leaking and get worse over time, so you won't get stranded, but you'll be repeating the timing belt job if it happens - because it needs removed for all of these parts. So many of us wouldn't even think about it -we'd just replace them all. I prefer Subaru OEM parts for these. 3. Water pump is dead last. If you're not doing the other stuff I wouldn't put money in only the water pump, it is the least likely part to give you issues. If it does it'll just leak and you can plan a course of action. Again - you'll be paying (or doing) hundreds of dollars a labor all over again to remove the timing belt and replace it. If you do replace it - get a Subaru or Aisin water pump and only a Subaru OEM gasket, the aftermarkets are thin cheap cardboard. You could just hand a gasket to your mechanic if he's doing it. They're readily available at Subaru. So if you're not currently leaking you can basically skip steps 2 and 3 without much concern. Personally I'd do it - but it's easy for me and doesn't cost me a dime, so I get that other situations differ. Do it yourself - I can do yours in about 45 minutes easy, you could in 2-3 hours no problem with a little preparation. Subaru timing belts are easy (particularly yours) and Subaru owners are one of the most helpful communities I've ever encountered. It's one reason I love driving them, I never knew or was around anyone that did cars - i learned everything from places like this and some members here I met 20+ years ago when I first started buying tools. Here's miles (a member here) doing the timing belt on your engine: Subaru Factory Service Manuals are free and easily obtainable as well as End Wrench articles and other write ups and online discussions. The EJ22 is a great first engine to do a timing belt on, it's very simple. No special tools needed (even if you see mention of one, they aren't needed). i've seen *one* report of a 1996 interference engine. After 15-20 years, it was just a few years ago, I would question the accuracy of 1 anecdotal report even though he was emphatic it was a 1996. With only one report it's more statistically likely the engine was previously swapped or it was wrecked and a door had an incorrect VIN/manufacturer date, something like that (considering I've probably personally swapped 5 or more Subaru doors myself and i've never worked for a shop or anything, it's quite common).
  8. Copy thanks, will do. The transmission is only staying in first gear. It runs and drives and i drove it to my office, but I can only manage this for a short period. Also the blinkers don't work and the blinkers and AT control unit share the same fuse - so I'll be tracing that tonight.
  9. Thank you all very much. Alternator is putting out 16+ volts. Does that mean the voltage regulator failed? So I guess it failed, blew out two fuses, a fusible link and the igniter? Appreciate it guys! I learned some about testing that'll help next time.
  10. im not sure what it is now but not lights. It's a large box by the lights, an aftermarket ignition box? installed a stock coil and bracket and wiring and disconnected that box (I think it's all gone)
  11. Good news/bad news - new coil and igniter and it runs fine. black fusible link smokes and within seconds it's burning skin but didn't blow. Swapped another and same thing. Never blew and car idle fine for a minute or two. When this whole incident started it blew a fusible link. My plan: See if it does it only when running or also just ignition ON. Then pull all the cabin fuses and see if it still does it and introduce one at a time. Can I use my multimeter? My meter fuse is only 10amps so I imagine I'll blow that if I try to measure amps for testing this "draw" like I would a battery drain? So
  12. Thanks again guys. Huge help. I'll finish tomorrow but I think the wiring for this igniter has wires spliced into it for a large box that is for the Hella headlights. Like you said - look for the wiring work!
  13. I don't recall where. Seems like I would have noted in my mind if it wasn't a Subaru dealer. XT6 Oil pump doesn't take an oring. You may have meant a seal but the EA82 oil pump does have an additional oring the XT6 doesn't have even though the pumps are very similar. that's confused people before. XT6 oil pumps have a Mickey Mouse gasket and shaft seal. EA82s have both of those an an oring.
  14. We got it - it was the igniter on the coil bracket. I guess i never said or maybe tested it incorrectly, what happened with the relay removed. or maybe I accidentally tested that with the igniter disconnected? Also that schematic I posted isn't good - it's incomplete and doesn't show that entire circuit for some reason, I only posted it to show the relay as the main schematic is two page fold out and hard to follow. Thanks for the guidance. You would have figured this out in like 11 minutes haha.
  15. Thanks guys - you got it. It was the igniter or its wiring....I'll check that tomorrow. Yes fuse 11 15 amps. disconnecting the igniter (is that the same as condenser?) and the fuse doesn't blow any more. Woo hoo! So now I have to figure out if it's the wiring or condensor itself. Probably the condensor? I've got a bunch I can just sacfrifice one to test. I went and checked before I did the coil/igniter. The fuse does blow with the relay removed. I was using a larger complete schematic that was just the smallest one I could take a picture of.
  16. White/black ignition relay wire shows 750 ohms Fuse 11 is 11.8 volts when battery is 12.2 or 12.4 Fuse 11 blows every time like this: turn key, there's always a delay of like 2 seconds then the ignition relay clicks and the fuse blows instantaneously.
  17. Schematic is huge and convoluted. I'll look for a smaller one, may have to post it tomorrow morning.
  18. oh man you're confused....Ive got no hope for my daily driver xt6!! Haha. I tested it from the fuse (the one that keeps blowing) and it showed the exact same numbers as from the relay. But the wire is larger like the red one and white/black just like the FSM says. The other two pins in the relay don't show anything abnormal, I think they showed nothing or didn't register until I changed the scale to 20,000. I don't get it - it's got 12 volts on one side and 740 ohms on the other - how can it blow? I inserted another fuse after testing and sure enough - pops immediately when the ignition relay clicks.
  19. Good, yep that's the Xt6 set up. 19 and 23 are the two idler pulleys. That's too bad you couldn't get any of those. When I checked around March of this year there were still a few of one of those two left, I forget which one. get two of the orings #7 for the cam caps. Theyre like solid brittle plastic instead of pliable rubber over time. Super easy to replace with the belts off.
  20. XT6s dont have a sprocket (toothed pulley), except the cam sprockets but they're fixed with no bearings so no need to replace. There are two tensioner pulleys And the two idler pulleys (both idlers are on the drivers side) Maybe you could talk to a couple machine shops and ask if they'd be willing to try and regrease them. I'd favor ones that have been around a long time, some machine shops are really really good and some are in the habit of custom repairs and nontraditional solutions, they like it where an average shop shrugs their shoulders. I've collaborated with a couple on some very custom repairs you couldn't find a shop to look at and been impressed at what they can make look easy. The pulleys definitely fail quite often and it's only due to lack of grease, installing old ones is a bad idea for long term reliability. Given the age of the car I try hard to avoid preventable common failures like that. The last XT6 timing belt I did had a seized pulley. It had run out of grease and locked solid, the belt just slides over the pulley which wears it faster and it breaks. I've seen that quite a few times over the years so I wasn't surprised. I would suggest consumers show no love, rather than Subaru, they're just following the money trail. Though I can see blame both ways.
  21. thats the bearing part number, yeah you'll never find those. I meant the pulley part numbers like you'd get from Subaru. What's the part number of the toothed pulley? What website did you use?
  22. How do you do that if the fuse blows the instant you turn it on? If I ran a power wire to power it around the fuse it seems like it'll overheat?
  23. Ignition relay lead: 740 Ohms (car off), 770 Ohms (car on) same wire on the fuel pump relay only registers on the 20,000 scale. By Ohms law 720 Ohms would only produce a fraction of an amp, not enough to blow fuses so I'm confused?
  24. If you park facing down a mountain they will most certainly stay open. At what angle they start closing from there....? When you open the door there's a hinge with a pin around roughly the center of the door vertically - that hinge/arm is what gives the door some assist/resistance. You'd be looking at swapping that part, which i've never heard of someone doing and if you've been searching then apparently few people have entertained it. Or swapping doors. You could go to an online subaru dealer and look up the door diagrams to see if that part is available separately. If it's common and all 4 doors are doing it - maybe it's normal operation? Pure speculation but I could see some grounds for favoring a door that closes over one that swings into traffic.
  25. Got it. Thanks, makes sense. Except loaded tests, i don't know what that is. I have is a basic multimeter - amps ohms volts continuity. Here's my current (haha) question: So the ECU wire from that fuse (#11) that keeps blowing - I can literally check to see if that has continuity to ground? So I'll test the power feed for each of items connected to that same wire and one should have continuity since the fuse is blowing every time - so clearly something on that line has a short? Is that correct? I've never done that so it sounds crazy - I'll literally get a continuity confirmation from a hot wire to ground? something tells me I'll strike out probably because I've never done it but I'll do that first. Tell me if this sounds right - since the fuse blows every time, the ECU has to be zero volts so that's more of a symptom than a cause - at least until I narrow this thing down?
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