idosubaru

grab a blown trans, wrecked, or rusty legacy with an EJ22 on craigslist and you've got engine and wiring and bellhousing if you're going to make your own adapter. I've seen quite a few around the $400 mark over the years.

oh right, I didn't mean those were the hard ones. don't even need a good bearing shop, they're readily available with a click anywhere theres cell reception or wifi. Those aren't the ones that are staked in. 6004 is the serpentine pulley bearing. 6005 is for the passengers and drivers side tensioner pulley. I think 3 are required because the drivers side takes two. Heres the problem child. These are the ones staked in The drivers side upper and lower pulley bearings are part number: 5OSTD61DWAX JAPAN NSK Those are not only unavailable but there is no extant information any bearing supplier or tech from NSK could find. If theres an awesome bearing supplier Id like to hear from them. The ones I talked to with that part number looked at me cockeyed until they saw the bearing with their own eyes. So measure and build your own it is or go with the following options: Subaru timing idler pulley part numbers: 13073AA020 13073AA040 Here's the PCI # for the complete kit and a picture of the parts: PCI TS26150 http://m.ebay.it/itm/391716146668?_mwBanner=1 Bottom two are the lower and upper idlers. The top is passengers side timing tensioner. Second from top is drivers side without the bolt and casing.

Looking on my my phone the melling parts appear to be 4 cylinder and not XT6. There's a passengers (right side) timing belt and tensioner which is just a pulley bolted to a bracket and a spring attaches from the engine block to the bracket to hold tension. So "tensioner" is somewhat misleading since it's not really a tensioner by itself - it's just a pulley on a bracket that does the tensioning once the spring is attached to it. Replace that tensioner assembly as one part or just the the bearings. That's an easy one to replace bearings on. The XT6 drivers side tensioner is a funky screw type hydraulic adjuster that presses on a pulley. I've got them new in the box and can post a part number later if needed. That's one pulley for the tensioner (hydraulic tensioner and pulley are separate parts on the drivers side). Then two other idler pulleys. So in summary: Passengers side: Belt Tensioner (6005 bearings) Spring Drivers side: Belt Tensioner pulley ((2) 6005 bearings) Tensioner Idler pulley lower 5OSTD61DWAX bearings Idler pulley upper 5OSTD61DWAX bearings

6004 and 6005 are two bearing numbers associated with XT6 pulleys. Just read the face seals or if you don't have them let me know and I'll post the bearing numbers later. That's for the easily replaced ones. Where did you get those beck arnely part numbers from?

I bet some of those are incorrect parts listed for the XT6 that are really for the 4 cylinder (ive seen it a thousand times) or unavailable. I'm on my phone so I'm not going to look them up now. There's at least one timing pulley that isn't available for XT6's. You also can't easily replace the bearings in all the pulleys I don't believe. The one shallow one easily comes apart. But one or two of them are staked in and have an unknown part number (I've talked to engineers from NSK/NTN or whoever the original supplier is and they can't find the part number anywhere). But you can just mic them and custom rebuild it yourself if you grind/machine the staked in portion away. A couple are available from Subaru. I just regrease them with a needle fitting. Works like a charm and costs about 50 cents in grease and the $4 fitting. I make sure to check them from time to time but I think I've been doing this like 12 years or more now without issue. Don't overfill them - the grease will push the face seals out and needs space to heat up and expand.

Might want to cut open the oil filter and drain and check the oil instead. If the pan has baffles in it, it is a pain to remove - I mean it's not terribly hard but It takes 10x longer than it looks like it should. the sump has to snake through the narrow opening of the baffles, so the engine must be lifted to gain clearance between the sumo and baffles. Maybe some EA82's didn't get this but I'd avoid it unless there was a clear reason. Cutting the filter open and draining the oil should clearly tell you if something catastrophic happened.

Subaru: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__WRXSTI/GASKET-CYLINDER-HEAD/49223398/11044AA770.html

I might take an EJ15 too! Although the EJ18 legacy swap was too gutless in the mountains (got 32 mpg in an automatic in flatland but only like 22 around here) maybe I could use it in a lighter EA/ER. Yep I've seen the non US market engines when I buy JDMs.

Agreed that's bad. I also think she made a bad decision but I get that the majority of people don't know how to do that but if someone knows you they have somewhat of a resource for vetting.

Starter is the only one related. The starter is bolted to the transmission and had to be essentially removed for the transmission work. I would feel totally comfortable asking the mechanic. Actually I would want to ask with zero expectations just to see how they react. It's so easy to check and fix and 100% related to trans removal that they should almost want to have a look for you. If they don't - then no sweat, just do it yourself or have someone else do it. Not a big deal or hard or expensive. If they do agree then that gives more confidence going to them in the future. Coolant leak - just find it first. It could be related if they also pulled the engine though very few people do that and they probably didn't. Oil leak - nope not related. Find out where, best bet is ask the oil change guys next time to let you take a picture when it's on the lift. Post and ask here your best next step. Knock sensor super common. Replace with $8 eBay ones.

international markets? My phone isn't showing right now but I thought OP was stateside, maybe I missed that. But yeah copy, there are tons of EJ flavorings and offerings globally. an EJ15 would be fun to see.

I don't know of any databases. You can download some excel calculators that calculate a few metrics based on various blocks, heads and gaskets. Keep in mind resurfacing is going to change things too if you're trying to be that precise.

All DOHC NA EJ25s are Phase I electronically speaking. 99 DOHCs for practical purposes are Phase I. They are Phase 1 heads, intake manifold, ECU, wiring, etc bolted to a Phase II block I think is the accurate way to say it. The 99 DOHC is plug and play interchangeable with 96-98 Phase I's but not 99+ Phase II's. So in most common ways it's easier to think of them as Phase I.

It could even be low on fluid. If it's leaking it should have been repaired. There's very few leakage pints - TC seal, pan gasket, rear output shaft seal and ATF lines which are common to leak and just need hose and clamps = cheap.

that's about like asking "pepsi or coke", "democrat or republican", "what type of oil is best" makes sense to keep the covers on an inteference engine. if you're going to be trouncing around trails, debris, off road, deep mud and snow that could get compacted up around the timing belt area, then don't do it. but subaru's tend to see offroad, snow, mud, gravel more than the average car. it can also cause the non-riding surfaces of the pulleys/sprockets to rust, which is benign but some people wouldn't like it and may only happen in rust-belt states like where I live. if the car will see light use then then it's possible. I've done it and wouldn't think twice if it's a car I'm not going to go nuts with, even an interference engine. i've done it before, my newer Subaru's now all have timing chains so it's not an option. i've driven 100's of thousands of miles without timing covers. you could choose shorter timing belt maintenace or checks in between changes.

For phase II the heads are basically the same heads, so I don't think they'd have any improvement and probably worse since you'd reduce exhaust flow from dual port to single port. Valves are even the same part number between the two.

the 99 RS exhaust will bolt up to the 2.2 engine but exhaust side i think differs.

i looked this up last night but don't see a reply...weird guess it got lost or i fell asleep...anyway, i looked online subaru parts places. john.c.e says 90-91 have a 4.11 final drive front diff and 92-94 have 3.9: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119346-transmission-interchange/ which doesn't matter for FWD as there's no rear diff to match. i looked up FWD and AWD 90-93 stuff on subaru online parts sites and didn't see anything to detract me from thinking they wouldn't interchange - although the listings and part numbers are convoluted and hard to make sense of.

Stock is double DIN with nearly every model EJ vehicle being plug and play interchangeable from 1995-2004, can google various installs, its all over the Internet, YouTube, been done many tens of thousands of times, etc. given what you've currently done this will be a breeze. The subwoofer won't be plug and play but it's just a generic component so it can certainly be used if wired properly. Clearly pointless for this project but for reference there are hard wired FM transmitters which work much better than the wireless ones, the Antenna cable that plugs into the stereo plugs into a box and that box plugs into the radio.

Well it sort of depends. If you want to swap the entire wiring harness and ECU it might be easier (though you'd want to confirm how well it'll play with your transmission, i don't think that's an issue but i'm not positive and maybe auto/manual may differ). If you mean plug and play - that sort of depends as well, It will bolt in and you can get it to run but it will have check engine light on and it won't idle well as the idle controller is completely different and not easy to work around. So as a plug and play option or plug and play with minor work arounds - it doesn't work. If you're in desparation or love a project to tinker with and don't mind some inconveniences it's not impossible to attempt that route. Living in an emissions requiring state would make it less appealing if the check engine stuff isn't easy to work around. i forget if that's emissions or idle control related or something else... 2000+ is considered Phase II regarding the ECU and wiring. 1998 and earlier is Phase I 1999 is a mixed bag, all foresters are Phase II, all 2.2 legacy's are Phase II, all legacy/outback EJ25's are Phase I. That's why you see the funny splits for what you can swap it into. You can swap your 1998 (phase I) into a 99 EJ25 legacy/outback because they're Phase I in 1999, but you can't swap it into the same year (1999) Forester, or legacy 2.2's as they're Phase II in 1999.

he says cylinders have compression, which suggests belts are good. But yeah you're right - we have to ask how compression was checked and a visual on those belts would make sense.

+1, easily plug and play in those. Any 1996-1999 legacy with EJ25 as well.

you might not have much rust down there like us northeasterners do so the timing cover bolts might not be as bad as we see, pretty much all of them that thread into the cylindrical inserts are seized. most of these wouldn't move if you let them sit in a wet rag of YIELD for a year. lol Subaru Scott's description above about prying and then pressing them back in is really really good - that's a great description, i've done that a ton of times over the years.

properly diagnose it first to be sure. 99's are odd vehicles in that they have a delayed engagement into drive issue that's very common and speedometer doesn't work, other than rarely happening a year or so before and after 99, it's basically a 1999 issue. both are very simple fixes and cost $0-$30 to repair. for the same reason you might even want to avoid 99 transmissions if you can get a year or two away from there and avoid that issue...but 99's are odd transmissions, i think they're Phase II so you might have to get a newer one to swap? you'll need a 2.5 liter Legacy or Outback 1999 transmission or any 99 forester so it has the same 4.44 final drive. you should be able to use other years (i think 99+) but let others confirm that. there's no reason you shouldn't find one for relatively cheap and have it running in no time. rebuild isn't worth the time, energy, and probably even cost...and if you burnt it up without fluid. MT is too much work, more cost, for a terrible downgrade anyway. but the easiest way to do that is to get a parts car off craiglist for cheap, which is easy to do in the rust belt and i think other areas as well.

it likely wasn't the thermostat. I've seen thermostats stuck in motors I've received that ran perfect with no headgasket or other issues. I guess that just sitting for extended periods removed from a vehicle can cause failure - build up, corrosion, materials degradation..?. Also with significant overheating and all the white residual material I've seen inside overheated engines I wouldnt be surprised if a severely overheated engine could compromise a thermostat, particularly if it's overheated then sits a long time. If they can fail it only stands to reason that significant overheating could escalate the failure mode. Other than that I've never seen a legitimate Subaru thermostat failure, i know it happens, but it's blamed and talked about far more often than it actually happens. I wouldnt want that engine. 10years ago I would have given it a chance though! Someone clearly limped and abused it and didn't want to repair it.