idosubaru

someone else will probably know better, but here's a way to diagnose: push it into 4WD and disconnect the linkage at the trans. if it then pops out - that means you have an internal issue. if it no longer pops out then your linkage is compromised somewhere. if the linkage is disconnected and 4WD is working properly - then at least with it disconnected you can actually lock and unlock it manually by hand as needed as well. so then you're not left without 4WD in the snow, mud, sand..

+1 what does that mean? in general auto to manual doesn't matter, they're interchangeable and always bolt up. but there are a few minor considerations like EGR and trigger marks. The answers to these two questions vary depending on what engine you bought - "new" = new subaru short block (which comes bare) "new" = new from some company (usually come preassembled with timing gear, but no intake manifold - but not always) "new" = new to me = used - which means it's a complete engine assembly I'll give your general approach and we can refine as you tell us what you actually bought. Trigger points: for your year engine there are two different style trigger marks on the drivers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket. the ECU/vehicle needs whatever it's expecting. to avoid this altogether just install the drivers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket from the original vehicle to the "new" engine. EGR: your Manual trans shouldn't have EGR. if the "new" engine has EGR then you have a few options, I'd install the MT intake manifold on the "new" engine and block the EGR port. if the engine is bare and has nothing on it then you're bolting your own cam/crank sprockets to it anyway and installing your existing intake manifold so EGR is a non-issue - except for the EGR port (or no port) in the head.

how do you know they are weak? give us some measurements.

Look at the replacement part as your guide - it'll be abundantly clear how it comes off: remove fasteners pry at the locking tabs if it's tight - work your way around the entire circumference giving it some movement and loosening it up before trying to pop it all the way out.

In older models the module doesn't need replaced in an accident, have you verified that it needs replaced? in previous models there were located underneath the stereo system, in front of the parking/shift level. ebay and online subaru dealers have exploded view diagrams that often show part locations. check there or stop into a subaru dealer, ask for a new control module and see if the computer shows where it's located. if it's under the stereo as previous models - google image search people swapping stereo's and you might find pictures of a center console removed and see it in those.

1. Refill and properly burp the coolant. Drive it without overheating so as not to boil and spew out coolant (which then makes it hard to monitor coolant loss) 2. Monitor how quickly it's loosing coolant and report back. If you're loosing a significant amount and no signs of leaks then it's internal and likely a headgasket. If you're buying these cheap you need to be careful as many hit the market with extant headgasket issues or ominous cooling issues. I walk cautiously around EJ25s, particularly old ones and particularly cheap ones and those with any signs of cooling system activity.

In general I avoid EJ25Ds without compelling reasons because repeat failures are not worth my time and not rare. If I find a compelling reason (can verify it wasnt overheated - which is hard by this age, helping a friend in dire need) then I do resurface, OEM headgaskets, Gates timing belt kit, Aisin water pump, reseal oil pump and replace cam seals with OEM seals. But I haven't done one since Gates kits have started changing the pulley suppliers and people are complaining about them so not sure what I would do now.

Jamal's brake thread is a good resource for simple questions like this. Not all "WRX brakes" are the same as well.

Piecing something together is always a mess, not sure a write up exists for other people's messes. Get an FSM so you can see some of the exploded views of the hill holder and cable adjustment/replacement and transmission sections and torque values. They're readily available free all over the Internet. You can probably get some guidance here on which FSMs as legacy trans from 93-98 didn't change much so even a 1998 is probably usable for your current needs.

That's awesome you can score those out there. I need to look for that in the future every one I come across (which isn't many). Do you look at like 20 or 50 before finding new ones? pull a parts are sporadic out here, only in some areas. Are they everywhere out west or do most people/yards tend to be around urban areas? Or maybe they have tons of Subarus so they're worth going to? Seems like Idaho, Oregon, WA, and CO folks don't have much problem finding them? I always wondered if there's fewer out here, or what, and why? Rust certainly doesn't help. 2000-2004 stuff is already becoming obsolete. They aren't all loaded with Subarus. The one I frequently travel close to (still 3 hours) only has 1-3 Subarus at any time unfortunately. Some- local places ask $75 for used stunts....good grief who pays that for unknown used?! The only one I know of in my entire state and certainly only one close to me is unfortunately rife with issues but has a fair number of Subarus and is close.

It's not available on all Subaru transmissions. If it's for gas mileage - that doesn't work or do anything except make spinning the tires and uneven tire wear easier. If it's for some other reason, be careful as doing it would nearly certainly void future CVT warranty claims.

Good point! They're complicated and sometimes require maiming to get apart. Those things are one nutty design. I don't know if it's heat, age, or what but some don't want to come apart.

Yep, i've done it, though not on anything this new. Just replace the entire seat belt sets, they're one time use. On older stuff the ABS controller resets and doesn't need replaced. On newer stuff they may be one-time use components, I've replaced the air bags every time i've done collission repair on 2000+ stuff so I don't know if they actually need it or not. Older 1990's controllers weren't one-time use and didn't need replaced.

You can install any engine you want, but if you have to ask this general of a question then you probably don't have the skill set or finances to come even remotely close. You need to be more specific - who's doing the work, how much cash on hand do you have, what are your skillsets, and what does "boost it up" mean? The easiest power upgrade which requires almost nothing custom or special and tons of people have done it - is to install an EJ25 block under that EJ18 intake wiring harness. That's the cheapest route but you're still stuck NA and pointless gains if you're trying to modify it any further. If by "boost" you mean turbo and supercharger - then this isn't a good route. If you want forced induction - turbo/supercharger - then you need a truck load of money or skills for custom fueling, wiring, splicing, and more....and of course expensive parts. Which usually isn't in the cards for most people behind a post like this. or you can try to cobble up a home made low boost turbo charger and probably blow your engine up, upgrade to an EJ22, wash-rinse-repeat.

This is really simple: 1. you did the right thing and got a Phase I transmission and matching final drive ratio rear differential. 2. install it and drive it. 3. Whether it's possible or not aside - there's no need to swap TCU's - the transmission is just a mechanical device, if routines execute X% sooner, later, slower, or faster than before - it's still doing the same exact routine tasks all transmissions do. to be worried about internals is akin to worrying if different altitude, climate, geography, changing daily driver use, more hills, different weight, etc will cause different wear or stress... it's perfectly capable of handling it, that's what they do and that doesn't change over time. XRT tunes Subaru TCU's if you wanted to dial it in a little sharper or make any changes, they may be able to help: http://xtremeracingtuning.com/tuning-services/ You could ask and talk more specifically about what you're asking. Making comments that aren't true confuses the discussion, like this:

it's not the struts, wheels and springs unless your car is drastically slammed or lifted - like 2", which I can't imagine it is based on your level of detail right now. your current set up has not drastically altered the height of the car - which means geometry and alignment weren't affected to any significant degree. i'd get a quality alignment by someone who knows Subarus and ask them why and what was wrong. if you live in a rust prone area you probably won't get those rear upper linkage bolts to move. the bolts/bushings will be seized and need torched off and replaced with new bolt, bushing and nut. very, very common situation, you positively can google that and get hits and info on it it's so common. +1 i do at home alignments as well. you can google ways to measure toe and camber at home.

you say "bottom front" but then say "drain bolt" - that doesn't make any sense since the drain bolt is on the rear of the diff, not the front. leakage points: 1. front pinion seal. this is where the driveshaft attaches. 2. side seals where the axles attach - replace seals. 3. rear diff plate - the entire plate the drain and fill bolts thread into mates to the back of the rear diff. remove and reseal the plate. 4. the drain and fill bolts could leak. tighten, seal the threads, or replace them. #1 and #2 aren't common and involve disassembling, or partially diassembling the diff to replace the seal so swapping a used unit sometimes is easier if reasonably priced used parts are available. www.car-part.com that mileage is really low - except my own, most Subaru rear diffs I see go 200,000 miles with never getting changed unless it happened really early by the first owner, and i've never seen one fail, so the rear diffs are rather robust and not prone to failure, which is what we see on boards like this as well.

You're going to need someone really good with ECU data to review it. Not many of those post frequently online. But hopefully someone will. I'd replace the front O2 sensors. I plan on 300,000 miles and replacing those once around 150-200k. So if I have an issue I consider this a free fix on my way to 300k, just do preventative maintenance i would do anyway. If valve covers are leaky now or future (common for this age), be sure to check the valve clearance while the covers are off. Exhaust valves are most commonly tight. They're too tightens cause misfires and other issues and eventually burn valves. I've seen one exhaust valve on an all original 200k H6 with zero issues that had zero clearance. I'd swap fuel injector and COP and see if the code moves with the injector/COP or stays with the cylinder.

Yep you got it. OEM/KYB for struts and springs Anything else for ancillary stuff disclaimer I replace the ancillary stuff less often in lieu of used or reuse old stuff/ignore it on older rusted stuff - so my sample size for those is anecdotal. I've often wondered about fitment issues with boots and bump stops - another brand on non OEM struts but never had an issue yet. FWD rear KYB struts were really cheap somewhere online (Amazon or eBay or rockauto...) a year ago. Bunch of folks said it wasn't possible to run them on but I tried it and worked great. Couldn't tell a difference.

+1 that description is not enough to say anything meaningful or significant.

Nice hit, enjoy the ride and let us know how it goes. Glad that brat is in good hands. That often means academic, limited mechanical abilities and experiences, inflated sense of expertise, qualifications, and skills, and sitting in offices talking about big screen TV's, craft brew, and restaurants. Skills and openness to learning new things is welcome to us engineers as a whole!

Yes - take it to GD, you've got one of the best Subaru shops in the nation right next door: https://www.facebook.com/pg/superiorsoobie/about/?ref=page_internal Good description - the side to side seems to suggest something up front oscillating the wheels and then transfering to the steering. So I'd guess front drive axle or bushings. 1. Have the front axles ever been worked on? 2. Any prior accidents or major work?

Transmission sets the length so you need to get one from a manual trans. 1995-1998 manual transmission driveshafts. legacy/outback for sure and I'm almost positive impreza's also swap as long as it's a manual transmission. 1999 outbacks and legacy's with 2.5 liter engine as well. You can look up your driveshaft on car-part.com and scroll through which years to see which interchange as well. or check ebay. (other 1999 vehicles may work as well but that's a Phase II transition year so I don't want to promise it, someone else will know for sure if needed) i've had machine shops install these before as well: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-2000-Subaru-Outback-Driveshaft-U-Joint-Set-3-U-Joints-/182624882034?fits=Make%3ASubaru that's just for illustration, i don't know if those fit your year.

yep, i always do it. pretty sure i've seen it happen many years ago when I first started doing headgaskets on XT6 engines carefully and paying attention to every step - maybe it happens if the head is installed with head bolts pointing horizontal as opposed to vertical - or only if too much lube or oil is used...

i'll update my database to more likely to replace and scrutinize then. I don't think i've ever heard of anyone doing this so I'm by no means suggesting it as a good idea, but the only bad bearings i came across i repacked with grease using a needle fitting. not worth the risk and small cost given the job anyway though. I don't think it's road conditions, ours are terrible.