idosubaru

Replace all the timing pulleys as well. Unless you can verify those were replaced with the belt, but often times they are not. People drive these things all the time - 4,000 miles is chump change compared to 100,000 or 250,000 people routinely drive these things too, so that's not even a question. Timing bits leave you stranded so i like to keep on top of all timing components - belt, pulleys, and water pump. Alternator, like any 25 year old vehicle, is most likely component to strand you and aftermarket units sucks. And they're super easy to replace - you can do a Subaru alternator with your eyes closed. I used to keep a used one in the vehicle as a back up when traveling long distance frequently and I'll probably start doing it again because it just makes sense. I prefer used OEM units if I can still find these old things around. Fuel pump is another similar item but on consistently run vehicles I never saw them fail that often. Failure rate seemed much higher on cars that sat for extended periods of time.

Bad battery Poor battery terminal connection - clean posts and inside of terminals shiney clean. Bad battery cables Bad alternator Test voltage at battery posts and alternator output post, starter, and fuse box to see if you have a voltage drop across their supply cables or connections. A voltage drop indicates poor connectivity. Poor alternator voltage output shows alternator failure

Cam sensor is on drivers side cam, crank sensor is just above crank sprocket by crack pulley. Look it up online so you know what it looks like. Attached with one 10mm bolt.

ABS doesn't matter, ignore it. You can't bleed the ABS unit itself. Subaru specifies an ABS activation sequence - meaning you do some dance to make the valves actuate internally - for bleeding but I've never needed it. I would not look there for issues. Subaru MC failure is crazy rare, that's not the issue here. I wouldn't waste your time there yet. Keep bleeding. Ideally with a helper or pressure/vaccuum assist. Bleed it like crazy.

Subaru hoses are always installed dry. You can download a free Subaru FSM and see the installation procedure created by Subaru engineers there. They're all over the Internet - you should get one and review the work you're doing and many of your questions will be answered straight from Subaru. I've seen one 2006 Outback EZ30 (6 cylinder) heater hose leak and that was in 2011 when it was very young.

The lurching is normal. It's just the a/c compressor clutch turning on and off. They all do this when the pressures aren't right like I described above. Pressure good - compressor clutch engages....pressure bad - clutch disengages....wash rinse repeat.

Why don't you get the right pressure in there and let some out? You didn't almost do anything. The system shuts off the AC when the refrigerant isn't doing what it's supposed to be doing. Undercharged - compressor turns off. Overcharged - compressor turns off. It will cycle on and off while running as the pressures dynamically change all the time. No big deal. Overcharging could lead to dramatic compressor failure, if the compessor ingests any refrigerant in a liquid state. if it tries to compress liquid something will break and may not be in small fashion thanks to liquid not being compressible. I'm not familiar with how likely that is because its so rare, it doesn't really happen. I doubt you'll see that or anyone else has unless someone tried to flippantly bypass pressure switches. A completely empty system can run on two bottles. attaching bottle after bottle to what may have been a vehicle that didn't need any to begin with isn't a good idea. What you need to do is similar properly charge it. If all you have is that cheap store pressure gauge then get it further below the line you're speaking of and bleed some pressure off.

Right good call. The 6 cylinder version is the XT6, XT6s add additional complication over the 4 cylinder XT. Most XT6 issues have a reasonable solution but takes a little bit more work and learning. If you're not up to the extra learning curve you'll hit more speed bumps...which don't feel very good with a blown air suspension. Lol

Sorry you had a bad experience. What were you asking about? Is this a parts yard or a shop? Why didn't they tell you when you called? Why didn't you call somewhere else when they couldn't answer? If a place doesn't answer on the phone then I'd just call the next place that may have what I need rather than wait weeks and leave messages, or at least call other places as an "option B". Most parts are available to order any business day: www.car-parts.com Presumably shipping is an option if you were willing to wait a week and were too far away to stop and ask them in person. I totally get that view and understanding are incomplete but so is this entire situation for those reading this.

What to do with it......I already told you. Lift it. Off-road lights. Locking 4WD clutch switch if it's an automatic. 5 lug swap and EJ wheels Engine swap For reliability: 1. Plugs wires cap and rotor air filter fluid changes and clean and tighten battery cables. I've had them for daily drivers for 24 years. They're great if not rusted or beat. 2. Install a timing kit, water pump, cam seals and orings, crank seal, reseal the oil pump, and new valve cover gaskets. 3. Thorough brake jobs - replace pad clips (super cheap on rockauto) and any ripped slide boots. Silglyde grease. Then it's good for another reliable 60,000 miles and many years. I

Like an oil filter. Tighten by hand 3/4 of a turn after it touches. Always check for leaks after running whether you torque wrench it or not. +1 torque values are way overkill. Your threads aren't factory finished any more. Are you going to calibrate the tool, and chase the hole threads with a tap multiple times and clean/blow/flush it out, and chase every bolt thread with a die before reinstalling? Some 10mm bolts in aluminum (valve covers), head bolts, internal engine internals are about all I use a torque wrench for. Might as well not "wear it out" or get it out for simple things where it's not needed. I can understand a new person not knowing or being familiar but I'd quickly pay attention as you go and learn some things by feel and familiarity.

Like an oil filter. Tighten by hand 3/4 of a turn after it touches. Always check for leaks after running whether you torque wrench it or not. +1 torque values are way overkill. Your threads aren't factory finished any more. Are you going to calibrate the tool, and chase the hole threads with a tap multiple times and clean/blow/flush it out, and chase every bolt thread with a die before reinstalling? Some 10mm bolts in aluminum (valve covers), head bolts, internal engine internals are about all I use a torque wrench for. Might as well not "wear it out" or get it out for simple things where it's not needed. I can understand a new person not knowing or being familiar but I'd quickly pay attention as you go and learn some things by feel and familiarity.

NTN is the manufacturer. They make the part for Subaru. Aisin makes the pumps for Subaru... I would replace the pulleys too. if I could feel them by hand and tell they're full of grease that's fine but I can't tell over the Internet and hesitate with someone unfamiliar with Subarus saying "it feels good". But that's the only way they fail - they get low on grease and quickly heat up and seize. The lower toothed pulley is by far the most common to fail, and the belt can't slide over it , since it's toothed and inside the belt, like it does when the smooth idlers seize, it'll slide over those for awhile before it breaks - it's immediate bent valves, I'd at least replace that one. Last timing belt I did a couple weeks ago was running perfectly and the belt was sliding over a seized pulley when I pulled it. Not sure how it would come up if you don't get an aftermarket tensioner but just in case Don't use theaftermarket bolts they come with either. It's tempting to use the shiney new metal - don't do it. Subaru water pump failure is rare and catastrophic failure on an average engine (never sat for years with water in it) is almost unheard of. So if money is tight you could skip that. But best to do it all right now and aim for 100,000k reliability, that should save you some money over the long haul. If you buy the correct year EJ22 it's plug and play into the EJ25. No wiring or computer changes. It just bolts in and plugs in like it's an EJ25. did you check www.car-part.com for any EJ22s? Now that you know your EJ25 is good you could potentially sell it for the cost of buying an EJ22.

They stated earlier it'll perform better including improved gas mileage. I'm fairly certain that's a massive understatement. Idon't know that there's a more hated part ever used on Subarus. Makes me wonder about the first 5 years they were new - surely they weren't problematic then? maybe that carb shop will dial in the Japanese one. Clearly they're not forgiving so how often will you then need to return to keep it maintained and running right?

buy a lift kit or break out your fabrication tools and make one.

they actually make very reliable vehicles if maintained well. So a great first project car in that regard. And there ample online support here to learn about all you need to know. Replace Timing belts and pulleys, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter and fluids and they make 250,000 miles all day long. Alternators, staters and fuel pumps are annoying. They're very reliable but old by now. New units aren't available, used ones are old and aftermarket aren't huh quality (even if they say new with lifetime warranty). I like as close to like-new reliability as I can get so I'm picky with that stuff.

If you want a reliable daily driver project car - they're a fine choice. If you want a show car - not a good choice for a first timer. All the common parts like engines, transmissions, drivetrain, brakes, suspension - are all identical to tons of other Subarus made during that time so they're easy enough to maintain. You'll never have a problem with mechanical components. In some areas You may have to wait a day or three for parts just because they're 25 years old. 10 years ago the parts stores here were more likely to have parts in stock - now I've often got to wait. I could grad a distributor cap any day - now they don't carry those any more. But since I want mine reliable and do all that stuff preventativeky anyway it doesn't much matter. If you're looking for a showroom restoration then yes you'll find lots of parts not available from the dealer or anywhere without significant effort and time. Not a good starting point. Things like trim pieces, accessories, paint, decals, interior, body parts. Those will be hard to get new or factory or excellent condition and are XT specific. JLowe is a recent XT purchaser who is doing a good bit of parts sourcing for his and really sharpening the car up. He's getting there but it's taken some James Bond Sherlock Holmes type work literally coast to coast with high capacity contacts to get there. There's a website Subaruxt.com though registering has been problematic lately. Good luck!

If you want easy then do what he just said - swap a carb intake on it - cheap and easy. www.car-part.com or post in parts wanted forum here. If you're game for a minor bit of work then just install an SPFI wiring harness. plenty of folks have done it.

I would contact ARP and see what they say, see if you can get measurements of the existing studs ahead of time. it wouldn't be the norm for them to help as volume is king in automotive world but i've got a lot of experiences that say don't let a brick wall get in your way every time either. I would drill out the holes. A custom race and automotive shop has to be doing myriads of custom designs that aren't lab, structural, engineering, CATIA/SolidWorks, and materials tested all day long. they should have a good eye for it, the only reason they'll balk is if they're not familiar with Subarus, that's a typical hesitation. i hesitate when i work on other vehicles - i just don't know or have any experience with them.

SPFI EA82 with dealer installed A/C looks like it doesn't have an engine wiring harness -there's no MAF on the end of the intake, the TPS, if that's what it is on the right side of the throttle body, has no wiring from it and i don't see any other wiring either - down to oil pressure sensor (if equipped), or anything else. it could be carb, i'm less familiar with those and their variations but with the zipties in the top left, red custom wiring on the right and top right, cheap generic radiator hoses, no radiator cap, missing plug on what appears to be the TPS maybe it's an SPFI installed into an originally carb equipped vehicle. it could be a lego job - SPFI intake installed onto a carb long block? are you positive it's a 1987 vehicle (and not just a 1987 engine?)

nice hit. what do you mean by "flex joint" - in front of the converter or....? poor exhaust is a definite issue and us in the rust belt are prone to lots of exhaust issues.

Tell us what hack you used and we can likely reverse problem solve from there what's causing the issue.

Perfect. Thanks.

1988 Subaru XT FSM shows no lower rubber spring seat, so it would just sit on the strut. Is that right or should there be a lower rubber spring seat? almost positive I've seen it both ways in the past so which way is "right"? Seems like it should have one. It'll give me a 0.02" lift right?!

Also the Subaru FSMs are all over the Internet for free. So is the EJ25D timing belt: The following will all have the same EJ25D timing belt procedure: Any 1998 Forester or Impreza RS EJ25 1996-1999 Legacy or Outback EJ25 Get an FSM for any of those and the timing belt is identical.