idosubaru

Definitely a better option. I'd spend more time getting something rust free, find a good seller, even if it's out of state. That will render the best price and more importantly - end product, over trying to shoehorn one specific engine into whatever is available locally. as to selling EJ25's though - compared to 10 years ago, it's a tiny market. I've got one never overheated and there's just no demand particularly in the rust belt.

So if it's geometry and we're doing at home alignments on vehicles that typically now sit at lower or higher heights from factory - we can't blindly follow the track width measurements? FWD to AWD tire size difference is .4" per tire, not enough to explain it all I don't think. XT6 wheels are all identical.

XT's are EA82 and XT6 rear uses EA82 rear suspension, the XT FSM shows the following tread ("track") width: 4WD XT6 front = 56.5" 4WD XT6 rear = 56.7" FWD XT6 front = 56.9" FWD XT6 rear = 56.1" (same as all EA82 XT's in 1988) I don't suppose anyone knows where they're measuring this from? But when going from 4WD to FWD: The front width increases The rear width decreases I would expect them to go the same direction? Is that simply due to geometry - different vehicle height and tire size and based no where on the tire the measurement is taken?

Nice work narrowing it down so precisely! Look up that repair - being a 99 issue only, it's a very small niche but it's common enough it's well documented, and investigate to see if it's similar to yours. Involves finding a particular solder joint and repairing it. If you're not up to soldering, just diagnose it and then print out the pictures/directions online and hand it to any shop, they can repair it in less than 5 minutes. It's not just OBW's, but 99 is the only year this issue is prevalent. It's possible for a 2004 to have a 1999 instrument cluster in it or this one just happens to be failing in a similar manner, which I've never seen but surely can't be impossible. You can also get a used instrument cluster with roughly the same miles and carry on, they fail so rarely they're basically worthless so they're cheap, can't strand you, and easy enough to replace that used is a good option: find someone parting one out or www.car-part.com I'm less versed in Foresters but I think any 00-04 Forester should work, get AT or MT, and 99 would work too but I'd avoid that year for the issues stated above.

2.2's don't swap into newer Subaru's. you can't just look at "2.2" or "2.5" - there's a lot of variations over the years Phase I, Phase II, active valves, CANBUS. look at the actual informational swap thread - they're all regarding 1990-1999 vehicles, older stuff. if you have a 1990's EJ22 - it doesn't work in anything 2000+. if you have a 1999-2001 (phase II) EJ22 then it can work in 99-04 Foresters.

You can - it'll bolt right in and up to the transmission just fine - same basic dimensions and bolt patterns where it works. It won't plug in though - the electronics are all wrong. 1. Swap the entire intake manifold wiring harness from the new engine onto the 1998 EJ25. Then it won't start/idle because the IAC's are vastly different and can't easily be worked around. So you have to prop the throttle open and just plan on it not having any reasonable ability to increase/decrease idle as needed (based on temps, electrical loads - A/C, lights, wipers, defrost - etc) and you'll have a high idle sometimes. 2. Fuel injector, coolant temp sensor issues also exist but can be mitigated by swapping/splicing plugs and minor rerouting. And I may be forgetting some minor differences with EGR or emissions. 3. You can swap the newer heads onto the 98 short block with a keen eye on gasket choices, but then you loose your nice machined heads and retain the craptastic worst short block Subaru has ever made - the EJ25D. If you do this then you can retain the newer gen intake manifold wiring harness, making the electronics much simpler. 4. You can also do a complete and proper engine swap - swap the entire 1998 engine, wiring harness and ECU into the newer vehicle. For an easy and plug and play swap with no issues, no work arounds, no check engine lights and an engine that runs and idles properly - you need to follow my list I posted in my first reply.

and even 1.8 impreza's if you swap those things onto an EJ22 intake manifold or onto the EJ18 intake which is a hot mess of wires and hoses in my opinion!

Wow, excellent, i've never seen it put that way before. I need to save that! If it's still under warranty take it to the dealer. If you live in, or the car has ever been in, an area with prevalent chipmunk or mice populations then you may want to check the blower fan/cage/duct area. If there's no noise/debris then it's usually insulation they've chewed out and stuffed in there. I'm not an electrical wizard so hopefully fairtax responds again - but I'd check the voltage at the fan and see if it's normal and then give it 12 volts directly from elsewhere and see what it does. In general the fans fail so rarely and are so easy to replace that used is a great option. There's no demand (since they never fail) so they're basically useless to a yard. www.car-part.com and you can have one on your door step in a few days for cheap.

Any 1995-1998 Subaru - including 2.2 liter engines - are plug and play, bolt in, and run. 96-98 2.2 has single port exhaust - but your EJ25 exhaust manifold bolts right up and since you have the entire car is zero extra effort or parts. 1999 - It swaps into *only*: 2.5 equipped legacy/outback (which means OBW, GT, SUS, some years the LSi got a 2.5 liter, not sure about 99) in 1999 It will not swap into any foresters, impreza's, or 2.2 equipped legacys. EGR - Some have EGR, some do not, if you have emissions/don't want a check engine light then you'll have to do a little more work, but it's easy. Yours probably has EGR so it can be swapped into any with EGR or just remove EGR stuff to swap it into any without EGR. Bellhousings went from 4 to 8 bolts around 98 but it doesn't matter - the necessary bolt holes all line up. Evaporative emissions - yours is in the rear of the car, earlier stuff is in the front of the vehicle. If it's a 2.5 liter vehicle just use the 2.5 liter intake manifold of the "new" car on your current engine. Or just reroute the lines yourself to the front, not a big deal.

What he said, stop by a place and ask. I have one front power leather seat from that vehicle if you're around OH PA WV or MD.

Are both wheels not turning? Is the wheel supposed to turn? Depending what combination of brake, shifter location, type of diffs, and which wheels off the ground, a given wheel may not turn when jacked up. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff. It's only 4 12mm bolts. Then see if the wheels turn. Assuming both rear wheels aren't turning. If they still don't turn then your issue is with the rear diff. If it does turn then it's the driveshaft (unlikely), center VLSD or transmission

So you want to use EA82 head bolts as chasers? Yes they're the same threads - other attributes I'm uncertain of, but unless the threads stop abruptly which I'm not remembering that should be fine.

Yes they're just a standard M11x1.25 thread pitch. Get an M11x1.25 tap and it'll clean them up. If the bolts go to the bottom, technically you should start with a regular tap and then hit the remaining threads with a bottoming tap, but I'm not sure if the bolt threads go all the way to the bottom of the holes and realistically most people skip, don't have, or use bottoming taps anyway. The bolts go through the heads - so while they look long - it's not like the holes are insanely deep.

Check for debris as mentioned. Check ball joint and tie rods. I'm suspicious of the wheel bearings. When it does it, how long does it last? If it starts and you turn the steering well what happens?

1. Check it first. It is possible to break a belt and not bend any valves, it's just not very common, I saw and fixed one that got lucky a few years ago. I'm seeing that lucky friend later today. 2. Install used heads. Cheap, simple and quick. www.car-part.com or ask on a forum for used heads. Cost is roughly $75 - $300 for two heads. 3. Rebuild existing heads. $600-$900 to replace valves, prep valves and seat, valve stem seals, resurface, and pressure test. Stop by your local dealer and ask around the parts or tech department to find out what local place does their heads. that's a good starting point if you're otherwise unfamiliar with local machine shops. The service advisor or people that answer the phones often don't know so that's why i say stop in and ask around. Not everyone there may know. I'd imagine there are online options too and well known subaru networks/shops that may ship. 2.2's are interference starting in 1997. but doesn't matter, the last year for the 2.2 was a 01 and that wouldn't be easily swapped into a 2006.

99's have two very specific issues to mostly that year only, fortunately they both have easy fixes: 1. the speedometer/odometer will fail. repair solder joint or swap in another cluster 2. delayed engagement into drive - this is the one time where an additive is a great solution - Auto Trans-X is a nearly 100% success rate option to avoid repair. change ATF and add that. repeat in 2-3 years if necessary. those early fosters often need rear wheel bearings as well. other than that - yes it's your standard EJ vehicle - EJ engine, EJ trans, suspension, brakes, et.al.

the point isn't if it happens - the point is that it's not normal and something causes it. One should never have the attitude that they "just randomly jump" time sometimes. A properly running EA82 doesn't skip teeth. brand new off the showroom floor they were never skipping teeth. So yes it happens - but finding and repairing the issue that caused it is the issue.

Nice hit. Link doesn't work? I think my JDM shipped alt connector is damaged I taped it up when I installed but having one on hand would be awesome.

No. 00+ changed. Should be a dime a dozen though to get the right one: www.car-part.com That will also be a good starting point for interchangeability. Also to verify yourself - google image search and look at bolt pattern and electrical connectors.

I'd get a free FSM or check here and get your distributor right. It's probably off if you pulled it out. They're easy to install out of time. Timing belts: When one timing mark is at noon the other is at 6pm exactly. Is this the case. Use a straight edge and take your time to check. Is it *perfectly* aligned?

Yep lubricated. Not so much or in a way that it's squishing out and running down between block and gasket though.

No. No. No. you're confusing two different things. You're combining GDs mention of a 251 block swap and installing an EJ22. They are NOT the same thing. Two totally different options you have. Swapping to EJ22 is also not a conversion - it's just an engine install and exactly the same work you're doing if you install the EJ25 after removing it. - it's plug and play and way easier than a head job. Pull engine and install EJ22 - plug and play and it runs. It's the same engine pull/install work as your headgasket job without all the head work debacle. Everything you need to know is right here: last one I bought was a perfect $350 low mileage one from the best yard in the northern part of the state (maybe the whole state but I rarely go that far) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/ If you're worried just buy the one EJ22 that's a direct swap. but other years are equally easy if you just buy an exhaust manifold too.

No. No. No. you're confusing two different things. You're combining GDs mention of a 251 block swap and installing an EJ22. They are NOT the same thing. Two totally different options you have. Swapping to EJ22 is also not a conversion - it's just an engine install and exactly the same work you're doing if you install the EJ25 after removing it. - it's plug and play and way easier than a head job. Pull engine and install EJ22 - plug and play and it runs. It's the same engine pull/install work as your headgasket job without all the head work debacle. Everything you need to know is right here: last one I bought was a perfect $350 low mileage one from the best yard in the northern part of the state (maybe the whole state but I rarely go that far) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/

Those two guys are way more experienced than me, but could it also be the solenoid? Which of the following is it, paying particular attention to when the starter relay clicks, it makes an audible noise. 1. Turn key - delay - click - start or 2. Turn key- click - delay - start I would think #2 is failing solenoid contacts.

Starter is always on gearbox side. In the U.S. every EJ bellhousing is identical in terms of fitment and form. I'd expect the same on other markets. Older ones have 4 bolt bellhousing and later have 8. But they're interchangeable.