idosubaru

Get a free FSM online to follow along Resurface the heads. GD has a good thread about DIY Turbo Subaru gasket part number ending in 770 Valve cover, exhaust, intake gaskets - subaru or decent aftermarket. Cam seals, crank seal, oil pump oring, i always use Subaru on these, but can't say if it matters.

My bearing is still installed so I can't easily meaure but I'll try and find another shop to disassemble it. Do they want: 1. Bearing dimensions 2. Pulley dimensions 3. Assembled pulley with bearing dimensions.

I'd guess axles, aftermarket axles are atrocious, I can't exaggerate how bad they are. But first - Some important details are missing: 1. "pop" sounds pretty descriptive and I think we all get it - but honestly a clearer description would be good given the circumstances, the obvious has been touched on already with limited results. Axles would be the most likely, particularly if they were previously replaced. But if you replaced them - usually even if you have symptoms they will at least be different, location, clicking instead of popping, blow apart, etc. No change makes blaming axles a little more amibiguous - but aftermarket axles are ***so*** bad, it can't be ruled out. 2. Any wrecks or damages? 3. Any major trans, differential, or suspension work in the past? 4. left, right, center or what? have someone help - ride in both seats and listen with windows up/down. Stand outside the car while slowly driving past/making the sound while standing on both sides of the car? A couple of minutes like that and it usually doesn't take long to get a hunch that it's emanating from the left/right/or center. 5. drive in a circle on dry pavement with the wheel turned to FULL lock, you will feel weird but just keep drifting in circles barely touching the gas. what happens? 6. shop can swap CV axles and see if the noise abates or "moves". they're the same on both sides and interchangeable. 7. aftermarket axles suck. you shouldn't have replaced both axles with the cheap garbage you now have in the vehicle. the original axles easily last 200,000 miles if greased/rebooted. i can almost guarantee those axles will not make 100,000 miles, they often have issues of fail in just a year or two. Simple google a combination of axle/aftermarket/subaru/failure/break/@I$U)(T*)(@ and you'll see zillions and zillions of examples. i have no idea how many blown apart on day one, clicking, vibrating, failed aftermarket Subaru axles i've seen over the years and I'm not even a shop/mechanic. it's crazy how bad they are. I'd ask the shop if they still have your old axles and try to get them back. But i realize most people can't do that and they're probably already turned in for a core. Not on Subaru's, unless maybe it's a lifted rig and you're rocking crawling it with locked differentials? Good on your shop not wanting to guess - they would have been wrong. If someone not familiar with Subarus needed confirmation it wasn't the mounts - that it does it only when warm does not sound like typical engine/trans mount/bushing symptom.

It's always the rear lugs right? If it is the fronts then ignore what I'm about to say, because this is a very specific and rare failure mode. Replace the rear rotor, this is a very rare 00-04 rear rotor issue only. This is very rare and only happens on 00-04 rears so not many people see it or know about it, there are dealers/techs that don't know this. I've had people completely ignore me - go to dealers multiple times with various lug and stud replacements, ignore me again, replace bearings...silly rabbits. Of course - verify you're tightening properly and the lugs/nuts aren't aftermarket junk - those are excellent suggestions. I don't even use a torque wrench on subaru lug nuts, they're not that delicate and are forgiving.

Resurface the heads for Surface Roughness (ie. finish) and flatness. I'd bet if you resurface those heads you're going to find high and low spots and fire ring notations, even if it checks fine for flatness. That's three things you don't want on a headgasket that blows headgaskets all the time. I get a DIY person doing it, but it's puzzling mechanics still rely solely on flatness. I see you don't want to EJ22 it, but just like the resurfacing you missed/skip - it's a far superior option in every way imaginable. Cheaper, easier to maintain, they run forever, nearly zero risk of headgasket or future rod bearing issues. They are boring and not a hot mess of a drama queen that will keep you coming back to this forum like the EJ25.

i'm about to swap an H6 trans as well, probably start sometime in the next few days, though i have no rush to get it done.

i'm sure it happens but i've never seen a failed transmission mount - particularly on average daily drivers. i'm sure i've seen some beat mounts on junk rusty ancient beat up stuff i didn't pay attention too. does the new trans have mounts? are they bad? i think they're really easy to replace anyway - a few bolts, support the trans and you're done. no big deal to do them later if needed.

Yep - push it in and it makes the light assembly stays up. push it again and the light assembly stay down. has nothing to do with the bulbs being on or off. The buttons in those pods routinely break - the plastic is old and more brittle. Be careful disassembling it. if you don't like the idea of breaking the steering column surround (if you still have it), you might want to just avoid using that button at all. the steering column surrounds break all the time, very easily. just turn the head lights on if you may need them up. if you want to repair it: remove steering column shroud - these are very brittle, and break as you disassemble or assemble them...probably more often than not, particularly for a first timer. then you remove the pods via 4 10 or 12 mm bolt on top. then disconnect the seemingly-too-many cords that snake down the steering column. if you can - take a picture of how they flow down the steering column. when you go to reinstall your very brittle steering column surround, as you screw the surround together the wires will push against the surround and cause it to break if they're not routed well. with it removed it'll be really obvious to see the phillips heads screws on the back to diassemble the switches. i've never attempted to repair buttons on the car, sounds daunting as there's a lot of little bits and screws and stuff.

And - the engine fans aren't working. I'll make a new post with a complete listbof failures once the dust settles. Maybe it'll help someone later. I feel like I'm going to be finding something every week at the moment!

There's enough voltage regulators for sale I've often wondered who is actually buying and replacing them? I've never heard of anyone doing it, clearly someone has but it's rare?

Who built the Subaru regulators? I've thought about buying a regulator and handing it and the alternator to an electrical shop. But how to verify the regulator quality? Which is why I ask who was the OEM supplier. Converting to EZ would be nice as my other two DDs are EZ. Converting to EJ would be simple, then buy those cheap Subaru OEM reman units from the dealer. They're so cheap I'll buy two and never think about aftermarket again.

1999's originally came with this tensioner: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NTN-Engine-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-ATU106J1-13033AA040-for-Saab-Subaru-/281938886091 (just the first one i found for illustration purposes only) unless the engine or tensioner and tensioner bracket were swapped, that's the tensioner it will have. 97 is the split. OP - there are two style tensioners and before 1997 is the old style and after is the new style. I'm with him though - i've never heard it referred to as aluminum or otherwise either.

mid 1990's ABS had faulty relays. If by "disabling" ABS the guy meant he was addressing an ABS issue - then it was probably this relay. Subaru has an updated part for it. if he just didn't want ABS to operate then get the FSM or google the code procedure, it may depend on what year/vehicle which you haven't told us. wheel sensors are the most common issue, the system isn't really that big or complicated, not many parts really.

Found it: There's your mistake. Aftermarket top mounts are awful. +1. That's what you want to do.

I don't buy aftermarket alternators unless I have no other choice. I'd rather go new OEM or two used ones. I always figured aftermarkets dont even replace but leave, clean up or "refurbish" the regulator. Im going to see if I can EJ swap my XT6 alt. Can you do that on the svx?

Yes I am. Wow, thanks a ton Gloyale I was dreading that. I'll practice on parts car/stash first. It's been 10 years since I think i've removed one.

at least i figured out the alternator and TCU on my own, after all that hand holding you poor souls had to do in the beginning. ha ha thanks

Got it - bulbs are rather fragile I think so, it's very clean and appear newish. I think there's a mitsubishi logo on it, i think they're sometimes an OEM supplier? I'm not sure I have another spare alternator - though I'm pretty sure I've got on somewhere, but I'll need another option at some point. I know nothing about the one on there now.

2001's were subject to timing chain noise sometimes, being related either symptomatically or to previous work wouldn't be weird.

Good call, the blinkers aren't working, but they were before this incident - but how did they blow if no lights were on when this happened? I guess maybe it overcharged previously when I did use the blinkers? There are three bulbs not working up front and two are buried under the fender with no easy access. I swapped the transmission computer and it shifts perfect - why didn't the fuse blow before damaging the TCU?

Yep. It's overcharged or undercharged.

If it's a valve issue then the risk of dropping a valve into the cylinder? If it's just a valve stem seal issue that shouldn't be the case. oil or burning byproducts on the O2 sensor and catalytic converter, though that shouldn't cause drivability issues. excessive blow by can make its way up into the PCV and intake manifold. lack of power will increase work load of each cylinder by 8%. risk compromising oil flow if level isn't maintained well. will the imbalance of having just one piston turn the crank hurt, probably not?

So far you haven't explained any issues. Get the oil level proper. Read check engine codes and post them here. And describe symptoms exactly without long stories. I get that you need a vehicle. Getting into higher debt load is a terrible idea. i would think long and hard about people you know and trust about finances - make sure they're really good. think of a local organization that helps coach people. I know of orgs that coach people through high medical costs and connect them to Resources. Ask them Listen Make the changes they suggest What you really want is to make decisions now that set you up to be better off in 5 years. So far what I'm hearing isn't going to do that. You'll be better off for a little while but not the long run. Car decisions can mitigate a little bit - for now keep yours and try to properly diagnose it first.

Woah the cam was off, are you absolutely sure? Good catch finding that, thanks for letting others know. That's nuts, that doesn't just randomly happen, what do you think cause it? did you take any other repair precautions - replace the timing tenaioners?

Yeah man enjoy the ride. Look forward to hearing what you find out.