idosubaru

Is there some other way to get this lower engine to trans nut off without taking an hour chiseling it? Drivers side 02 H6 auto. I'll try welding another nut on top but I'm doubtful. I'm throwing the transmission away so I'm free to hack and shatter the bellhousing. There's just very limited room/access. I pried between the engine and trans with a 6 foot digging bar separating the top a lot, hoping the bellhousing would shatter (done it once before but it was one of the higher bolts not the lower nut. Didn't work. Maybe I can try prying from the bottom and get closer to the nut. there's too many other items for a torch, or at least for my torch in that tight space. How small is your flame when you're torching a nut - I think j need to tweak my torch as the flame always seems large.

Ifant imagine even considering it. If that's rusted so probably is the exhaust fuel filler brake lines fuel lines brakes other strut towers quarter panels.

rust free or limited rust? Want to email or PM?

I've only seen one blocked heater core and flushing it solved the issues - i'd give it a try now before it gets any colder! Pretty sure we were doing it in the winter! Yes - it's a painfully annoying job because the entire dash has to come out - and youre' talking about 30+ year old fasteners, plastic, and vinyl. On tribeca's you can cut/use hose to remove/install without touching the dash. it's a slick work around to turn a debacle into an easy job. I'd definitely be looking to see if that's an option if I had this to deal with on my XT6. I wouldnt' want to touch those old panels, parts, fasteners, and plastic if there's an easier option.

I think the description suggests it was on the overflow tank. Another option is to try this test on another similar Subaru set up and see what results you get. have any friends with a subaru that will let you play with their cooling system!?

I think this question/discussion comes down to: nominally how much fluid moves between radiator and overflow tank on a daily basis in Subaru's? If there is fluid transfer with every drive cycle - then you're essentially closing a system that isn't designed to be permanently closed. The cap is intended to move fluid and the overflow tank isn't sealed to allow that fluid in (and corresponding volume of air to move out)- but you're sealing and preventing that. So basically you're suggesting the overflow tank and radiator cap can be removed - because that's what this test does. The only systems I know of that operate close to that are thermo-siphon diesels that don't have water pumps...although they still have a cap, but theoretically you could get away without one on those. Now - if the overflow tank is only for long term changes - environmental or others - then maybe the answer differs.

Thanks GD. That make's sense logically, I do agree with you, just want to understand the underlying cause and effect. And I totally agree about fewer changes, less oil to manage, go dump at the store, etc.

Where do we start? Time is money and we all have varying perceptions and applications of that principle. He also was quoted a cam seal - not a difficult job, but an additional 30-60 minutes labor. Shops can't spend hours sifting/organizing parts for every single job. So parts pricing at a shop is going to be higher than you selectively spending hours looking for good deals. Overhead - it costs money to operate a business. If you think you can do it cheaper and be a profitable well known business - then you should start a Subaru repair shop as you'll tear it up in the PNW. But you can't and won't. $1,200 is not out of line.

Yes they're 1.25 thread pitch. All the 10, 12, 14, 17 mm head size bolts on Subaru's are 1.25 pitch. The 8mm headed bolts on Subaru's are M6x1.00 Drill it out with a left handed drill bit. But you're going to need better than cheap chinese bits for those hardened bolts. Then use a drill bit just barely the size of the bolt shank. Helicoil is exactly what i'd do - no way that's going to fail. No matter what you do - put some corrosion treatment on it to keep the next bolt from rusting up as well. www.car-part.com for most of the yards in the country, can sort by distance.

Most Subaru drivers (like most vehicle owners) are practical get in the car and drive types that aren't that familiar with or worried about any specific manufacturer. They aren't on forums, they dont' think about cars that much, they know just enough about their vehicle to enjoy and like it. There's so many Subaru's in some areas you wouldn't be able to own a manual transmission if you waved at every one you drove past.lol

Are H6's less susceptible to this? It's clear that dino oil does not cause every engine to fail. I have 280k (H6 2002) and I'm by no means an exception. Why? I don't believe in luck - there are quantitative physical reasons things happen on this kind of scale. Individual cases are hard to assess as they are frequently caused by prior overheating, low oil, infrequent changes, abuse, derived from past failures, etc. i defer to GD's experience, not trying to change anyone's mind, and am taking notes. i'm just mining for factual representation of failure modes and causation and this is about the only forum on earth where this can even be attempted to discuss this logically! LOL And I don't believe in luck, so the question remains: why?

Synthetics are great but many folks get 200k+ over and over again without issues without it. Lucky? H6s are awesome? I'm awesome? Haha

If you need parts I'd say buy John's but I don't think 98 will work in the 99 Phase IIs, but you can verify that or: Www.car-part.com

First - binding can be repaired without removing the transmission so I'd be repairing that rather than replacing or rebuilding the trans. Install the FWD fuse immediately and tell us if the symptoms change. From an auction and possibly swapped - I wouldn't depend on matching the trans gear ratio to the original. What if the rear diff was also swapped to match (or not) the front? Then comparing it like you said would be futile. Let us know the results of the following: 1. Front diff (part of transmission) simply has to match the rear diff. Determine gear ratio of each one and compare. So match those two components, not the trans gear teeth to an original. 2. Mismatched wheels/tires will do the same. Make sure they're the same size. 3. Install the FWD fuse. If binding goes away then your clutch plates are bad. And you also have an additional nearly free repair option and a really inexpensive option to try before replacing the clutch plates. 4. Is your AT light flashing 16 times at start up? If so read your TCu codes and post them here. 5. If the clutch plates are bad - replace them. Pull off rear extension housing (trans does not need to come out), replace clutch pack, and grind grooves out of the drum. 6. If FWD fuse doesn't work then your Duty C solenoid needs replaced. (This often is noticed by the TCU and it'll indicate a trouble bybflashing the AT light 16 times at first start up). Replace Duty C solenoid, requires removing rear extension housing of trans but that'such easier than removing the trans.

I'd install a new one on the front right before paying more for both fronts used. Total It would only be $450 for new ones, verses $300 for used. I mean, maybe you'll get lucky and score new ones, but that's a long shot unless you've got gobs of subaru's to choose from.

It doesn't matter. This is like asking if driving 74 mph on the interstate is safer than driving 76mph or if wearing a helmet in an elevator reduces your chances of injury. it's about that worthless of a discussion. Yeah make sure it's properly API rated - but Wal Mart wouldn't sell it as such and i've never seen oil not properly rated - you'd have to be intentionallydoing somethign weird to find an oil that isn't meeting those standards. You'd get more "protection" by adding additional oil. If it calls for 5 quarts - add 5.25 to protect against oil loss (i know, i know old subaru's never ever in a billion year leak oil). Granted - here again this recommendation is sort of silly - but that's just my point - it would offer more quantitatively robust protection than oil brand choices - but it's silly and no one is doing that. Technically you should be doing a UOA and then there's no wondering or guess work. They tell you the actual physical properties of your oil and give recommendations on it. But...again (yawn) - it's such a pointless discussion and decision no one is doing that because it's overkill. Take that helmet with you to the next elevator or escalator ride.

this: they blow a hole in the block and oil splatters everywhere. not typically all over the top of the engine or underside of hood so it depends what the OP's description is too ambiguous for any kind of real answer.

no.

The noise won't hurt anything, people run Subarus years with HLAs clicking. Maybe I wouldn't recommend that, running indefinitely but it's benign otherwise.

Pull engine. It's more straight forward and working under the car usually sucks. Pulling transmission is logistically easier, less stuff - no coolant to deal with, power steering, alternator...but kind of that is hard anyway.

How long did you run it after the work - the HLA's can be noisy for awhile after being down or apart. If you're replacing one HLA you should replace them all on that side while it's apart. It's only $5-$15 each from Mizpah to have them all rebuilt. Are new oil pumps even available?

what he said - used parts and they're not hard to install, although the arms/mechanisms are kind of wonky seeing them the first time. buy an entire contraption from a yard. www.car-part.com It's 20 years old, this is not a rare enough failure to start blaming people and pointing fingers. i would hesitate giving a car to someone to "assess" it for no compelling reason, whether they're a mechanic or not. you're better off sticking to excellent subaru specific and intentional service over random opinions. if the guy knew that vehicle (meaning a Phase I 4EAT, and EJ25D, et.al.) really well and was well versed in those vehicles - he would have asked platform specific questions, maintenance history, any symptoms, and practical things like that over a test drive. many of us on this forum could do that - give you a very thorough synopsis of where you're at and which direction you should go. a test drive is hardly needed or helpful on a car with zero symptoms.

Clearly can't promise anything but usually this is a simple issue: 1. read the OBD (check engine) codes and post them here. 2. replace the spark plug wires (they should be Subaru, NGK, Magnecor or so other high quality product) 3. clean the idle controller (there's a few different styles but generally you just remove it and blow it out with carb or brake cleaner really good). 4. swap in a used idle controller 5. check the timing components - make sure alignment marks are proper and the belt isn't compromised (failing pulley or tensioner) 6. describe the symptoms better: what is it doing at idle - describe it exactly since we're not there. no stories - just details. what is it doing while driving - does it drive fine? is gas mileage reasonably normal?

You're way over the time constraint - yes the belt and pulleys all need replaced. Since you'll be cutting costs somewhere, skip the water pump and replace it at the next timing belt interval. The water pumps on those engines don't really fail or present any issues. Many shops install a lower quality pump than the original pump which are much better, so it's equally pointless, or a toss-up at best, to replace it on those grounds as well. If you did replace it - get a Subaru or Aisin pump. Here's what you want for another 10 years and 105,000 miles of reliability: New timing kit: belt, pulleys, tensioner - ideally Subaru but you likely won't get that Both cam seals Reseal the oil pump (crank seal, oil pump oring and sealant) Change the coolant, thermostat, and add Subaru Coolant Conditioner

drive it until that broken tooth wears into adjacent surfaces and see if it quiets down?! LOL