idosubaru

www.car-part.com buy one from the south or west with no rust

if your 2005 has an immobilizer then you can't just swap the ECU like you can on 04 and earlier models. for parts in general though: www.car-part.com and the cheapest one shows up on your doorstep rather than driving, walking, looking, striking out....

Buy a Baja, it's a Subaru wagon modified to small "truck", exactly what you're talking about. 2000+ for sure 5,000 far exceeds what most people would consider reasonable. maybe if you're adding another 2,000 pounds of steel reinforcement? he could potentially get away with towing above limits in Ohio. It's so freaking flat in most of that state it's a breeze to tow and drive in the snow, it's like a joke. I'm not recommending it but if you had to do it once it wouldn't be hard there. I tow 3,500 pound Subarus through mountains and it's far more taxing than flatland. I would guess 5,000 pounds in Ohio is better than 3,500 on 6%+ grades. But if it's not beefed up that is going to feel insane if it ever pushes you. I've had to slam on my brakes once in an emergency situation while towing and that was a a scary feeling all that weight just sending you forward, and that was in my full size Ford F-150. If I was in a Subaru that would have ended much different.

Haaaa! Nice hit!

nice hit, good job getting it done. That you had to take it off is bad news for us northeast rust corroded WWF Monday Night Raw folks!

Not this time. One welding ember down slipped past gloves and down a shirt sleeve. It wasn't bad, but I have such limited time and dislike spending 15 minutes on one nut like I did 10 years ago.

It was soaked in PB blaster No room to swing a hammer, couldn't pound a socket on Welded a nut tto stud and welds broke. Welded another nut onto the existing nut, didn't work. Quite a few chisel blows got the thing to move. Maybe the multilingual heat saols via welding helped.

check everything you touched for this job - engine mounts, etc. check the rear transmission mounts. the engine/trans lifting would have put some additional strain on them.

Don't know - something benign, part number changes like this are common. They're interchangeable, i'd just make sure you're getting KYB and call it good.

I think you figured it out but in your picture: Top oring - 1 per head (2 per engine) - lower corner gasket. Middle oring - 2 per head (4 per engine) Bottom oval - 1 per head (2 per engine) Like Gloyake said, these gaskets install exactly like every other Subaru headgasket, no way to get them wrong that I know of, sounds weird.

Wow yeah I'm not surprised those mangle sometimes. That's unfortunate. If you use punches you can't torque it to any known value. Does that mater? You could mark nut ring location and count number of turns to at least get in the right neighborhood though.

If I could see the oring I could tell you where they go. Post a pic? I actually have them all in my garage and could post a picture later Sunday or Monday of them and maybe even mounted to a carrier. Here's the simple way to tell: The three orings across the middle of the carrier at each set of cam lobes (2 circle and 1 oval) are not black. The one in the very bottom corner of the carrier is black and flat (no fingers or tabs). Another way to describe it: There are three orings across the middle of the carrier roughly located at each set of cam lobes that all look the same and have small metal fingers holding them in place. Two are the same part and circular and one is larger and oval. The fourth oring (3rd different part number) is at the very bottom corner. It's black and internally it's metal reinforced, you can't see the metal as it's covered but it's clearly stiff and internal. I've seen RTV stuck right around this oring but it happens so rarely I havent seen enough so that's just an anecdotal report, I wouldn't know if that is a statistically likely occurrence. If the oil pump was worked on maybe ask if he remembers retaining the rotor orientation when reinstalling. I don't know if that could cause this but it would be an easy way to *not have thing exactly like they were before the job* - when it made no noises. The rotor is symmetrical, installs either way, and visually has no mediately identifiable marks for "front" or "back" unless you're paying close attention for it. Maybe incentive it's warn in for 30 years and XYZ,000 miles the orientation needs retained. when he removes the cam case to replace those orings the oil pump will be nearly zero work to address - just 5 10mm bolts and 3 minutes to pull it. Normally it's a sizable time consuming job. If you've read my TOD thread you'll see this already but I've seen uncooperative TOD resolved by replacing the oil pump entirely. Even after multiple reseals, perfectly find oil pressure, and zero visible issues with the oil pump. Not sure why but I've seen it often enough to know it's not anecdotal. I realize yours didn't make noise before so presumably it shouldn't be the pump and they're not really available new either so makes sense not to focus here now.

Thanks. Thats cheap enough to try and maybe they'll help later for easy stuff. past experience suggests for really seized stuff the outer layer of metal will rip smooth or walk backwards before loosening. It stripped with 2-3 feet of leverage and bolt extractor efficacy with multiple feet of leverage has seemed limited in the past. The same thing happens that happened the first time, just rounds off further. With enough iterations the nut should theoretically wear down to nothing. Haha

How positive are you this diagnosis is correct? Most stories that go as yours is - end up being misdiagnosis. most mechanics aren't familiar with these engines and finding a mechanic who knows EA/ER failure modes and symptoms very well is almost unheard of.

Feed the HLAs? Why would you only replace one of them? They should all be replaced because compromising fluid dynamics at one location can effect another. low water pressure at a sink doesn't mean only the sink is to blame, it can be caused by another line being used, or compromised. There are three clip on orings - one for each representative cylinder on the cam. I don't think they do but if these also supplied HLAs then they would be cylinder specific - one cylinders HLAs would get the large metal oval oring. The other two cylinders would each get a smaller metal Oring with the clip on arms. ive never had reason to ascertain oil flow direction but don't the HLAs receive direct lubrication through the heads and not the cam case galleries? I assumed those cam case oil supply galleries are for the cam and rocker arm bearing surfaces and disty gear set.

ive used various kinds of bolt extractors. I'll buy another and try again - send me links to what you guys use? "grip tighter" on a really beastly bolt to me means walking backwards as you tighten until it slips off.

Sounds like it was checked out but it is true that filler necks rust and leak all the time. I'd want an eye on it first as well before doing anything else. I wouldn't want to do what you're doing. there is zero margin between nothing and catastrophe with gas. It's not like you have a second or can back off or run. That said get all the gas and fumes out of it first. So if there's a home does that mean debris and then metal fillings are going to get into the tank?

Repair the spark plug threads. swapping heads is like tearing drywall and studs out of a wall to repaint. There are also special spark plug solutions but I doubt anyone would go that route.

Yes I've got a metal gallon can of PB Blaster and cans of Yield for penetrant.

Correct - sides are all rounded now. The lower nut is prone to rust unlike the bolts. I've never seen a bolt extractor work consistently on anything but what id call easy stuff (others probably consider them harder than I) so I have scrapped them all. Maybe I should try some newer ones.

Why: "Made in China"

agreed. Though I've never worked in a shop and was paid to work on a car once like 12 years ago. Thanks guys. I just quit for the day as soon as it stripped so I'll now be fresh and ready to go next time.

oh right. My bad that sounded terrible. I'm well aware of acetylene volatility, I actually run a propane and oxygen set up precisely for that reason. I'll see what a 13mm does before I crack out the dremel.

A power rack without a pump works fine but is harder to steer than a manual rack.

Hahaha! I do but the flame seems huge and scary under the car. I know nothing about torches so it's probably not adjusted right and I'm timid.