idosubaru

You can't get the codes via the OBDII interface - but like they said it's really easy. Yes - i found the issue. A rodent (mouse i presume) had chewed through the wiring under the passengers side seat carpeting. Spliced in some new wire and everything is back to normal.

Emily - that's some helpful notes - how and where do the TC's fail? 1. verify the source of the leak 2. are you positive the transmission is now full of oil and still not working properly?

Correct, bolt the existing intake manifold onto the EJ22 long block. The EJ18 doesn't have a knock sensor (or the ones i've seen never have) so just remove it from the EJ22 if it's not present. If you need it to have EGR, which all the EJ18's I've seen do have EGR, and the EJ22 does not have EGR - and you need no check engine light - you may have some hurdles and work to do. Does the EJ18 have EGR? Does the EJ22 have EGR? Do you care about emissions or check engine light (does it matter in your state)? The car will run and drive fine either way, it's just a matter of states and preference. I did an EJ18 swap into an EJ25 years ago and ignored the EGR, got the check engine light and it's been that way for years, no big deal, but ther's no emissions inspections in this state so it doesn't matter.

I'm sure they've gone 200,000 miles before. plenty of people don't do anything but oil changes or until symptoms present.

Gates kits on Amazon are cheap and include tensioner, belt, and pulleys - which are all prone to fail, not just the belt. Subaru specifies 105,000 or 105 months, whichever comes first, though these belts aren't likely to pose issues due to time alone.

have the axles ever been replaced? new/aftermarket axles are suspect. vibration under load - according to my definition i almost always: 1. aftermarket axles (even brand new ones - brand new would be a red flag actually) - the inner joints particularly. a very bad OEM axle could do it as well - but it would have to be exposed/deteriorated substantiall 2. front differential. 3. driveshaft ujoints other things could be described as "vibrations under load" - but would typically have other symptoms/descriptions associated with it - so that's why i qualify my statement as ""according to my definition". if what you see is true, complete, and as i'm accustomed to seeing on Subaru's then #the above are the usual culprits.

Subaru engine swaps aren't bad at all, as far as engine swaps go. No special tools or access needed really - the H6 and H4 engine swaps are almost identical in this regard - alternator, power steering, wiring, engine mount nuts are all nearly indentical in placement, routing, and size. the H6 has one more radiator hose than the H4 - other than that it's about identical in scope! you can pull an H6 and drop an H4 right in it's place (it just won't plug up and run obviously) - but that's how similar the lay out is. the torque converter bolts are a little harder to get to on the H6, but that's minimal on a job this big. make sure you know how to seat the torque converter too - borks the trans if you dont'. or just make sure it doesn't come out when pulling. I would ask them what tests and how bad they were to determine the heads were bad. One reason it's worth replacing an engine is if the car was bought with headgasket issues and there are signs that it was egregiously overheated - which it sounds like it may. Of course replacing the headgaskets might be a perfect fit, but prior overheats can result in later blown engine blocks - like those seen frequently in Ej25 world. Not common, but annoying if it happens particularly after a costly/time consuming repair. H4 heads = easy. H6 heads = much more work. they are routinely swapped because of it. There are like 60 allen head bolts to get the timing cover off. Granted i think i'm the only person that's had this happen but if they're all rusty or seized - they won't come out with regular tools. i had to remove like 50 of them with a chisel - they were seized and wouldn't budge/stripped even with an impact driver. And there's like 5 different lengths too - so keep them all organized. then remove all the timing chain bits - gears, guides, oil pump relief - FSM/Subaru says certain bolts/washers need replaced and you need to mic the clearance of the central guide, the timing tensioners are tightly wound spring loaded suckers. theeeennn you finally got that far - and there's like 40 more allen head bolts to remove to get the rear cover off. then it turns into a somewhat normal head job from there....oh wait NO IT DOESN'T! you have to clean 48 miles of sealant - outer timing cover, inner timing cover, those little goof ball ears that cover some of the head bolts. run a 16.8 mile bead of sealant around the outer edge of the inner cover...hoping the start of the bead doesn't dry in the 2 hours it takes to run it and mount it and get all those 40 bolts in there and lined up without breeching that incredulous bead you made. then install all the timing bits....then do it again - a 23.4 mile bead of sealant for the outer cover. it's many hours more than a 4 cylinder headgasket job.

+1 to ebay knock sensors. they're cheap and i've never had a problem. get two or one of those and one used one - or save your old one if it's still good and yo'ure replacing pre-emptively? 1998 knock sensors are definitely on ebay.

too late i guess but i have a complete rear extension housing, clutch pack, and Duty C assembly that came from a perfectly running and driving 1996 legacy.

wow, crazy. CV axles- the inner joint is failing. front diff or suspension should cause some noise as well.

that's a good point - how sure are you this is front diff/trans related and not inner axle DOJ? his is a manaul trans so step #7 above doesn't apply, manuals don't have FWD fuse or option.

have you experienced that on Subarus? i've never noticed a difference with different tread patterns/tire brands on Subarus. i routinely do that across dozens of Subarus without issues for 20 years. i've even had a snow tire on one side and not the other. i dropped a off tire this morning with a blown out side wall due to a pothole. it's from a matching set of new tires but i asked for whatever tire he wants to install, it won't matter. maybe other manufacturers are more prone to it? maybe it's tire age, compounds, condition, and tread quality? those are important and probably vary more when people start swapping tires, different brands, etc. people don't buys 4 mismatched brand new tires - so the mismatching inherently implies variation in age, condition, tread quality, worse alignment maintenance, etc. that might explain why mismatched tires seem to perform differently and i've never experienced an issue.

more information might be helpful - read the check engine light codes - list all the codes here - obviously the cam code is going to be on...what else? was this car running perfectly one day - then just stopped running? or is it a craigslist special you bought for $300 yesterday? any prior major work, issues, or accidents? running without the cam sensor sounds crazy...i wanna go home and unplug the cam sensor on my 95 legacy and see if it starts!

that's what i was thinking - they can get crimped and damaged.

+1 call all the tire shops, they keep used tires on hand just for situations like this. in general I'll run one off sized tire and leave it where it wears the quickest (up front on all of my Subarus). i'll leave that one up front and rotate the other three until they're all warn down evenly. if you have an LSD rear diff you want the rear two tires to match. around here - they will install two new tires on Subarus - one on the front and one on the opposite side rear. apparently this works as long as the diffs aren't locking. I've been told - i think it was in this forum in another thread - you can only do that if the two matching tires are larger than the others - and you wouldn't want one larger tire up front and the other 3 all smaller...though that's from memory and I"m not sure why but it would have to do with the operation of the front differential.

sounds like a compromised wire. swap wires between cylinders.

rear differentials rarely fail in Subarus - it's probably a mis-diagnosis as often, or more, than an actual failed rear diff. let's start with the basics...what lead you to believe it was a wheel bearing? you mentioned heat... 1. noises? 2. drivability?

+1 they do rust quick

i wouldnt' part a running car that's usable for an EJ18 swap unless you're the frugral, practical, and pennywisedollar dumb type. why not sell the EJ18 vehicle and just buy an EJ22 you need or wrecked EJ? not that this is a "which engine is worse thread" but, the EA82T was fine when new, but they're fragile and sensitive like any turbo engine, it's only now that they're old, had 7 owners, been poorly maintained, that they are sketchy. all things being equal the EJ25 is a far worse engine with problems right off the lot when they were new, the EA82T didn't suffer that debacle.

timing is easy. print/look upt he online FSM, Subaru technical service bulletins showing detailed pictures of exactly how to line it up - lots of threads about it. post pictures of your timing marks and we'll tell you what's wrong. car ran and drove fine before the work? compression tester? they're almost useless for EJ engines, i wouldn't touch it, that's not what you need here unless you like running 25 miles to get to a place that's 2 blocks down the street.

Oh yeah, i've seen a few. They're really annoying. I'm still really annoyed my nearly 1000 ft/pound impact won't get them off. i saw a shop work on one once for a Subaru - it wasn't budging either - he let their impact hammer on it for like 3 minutes...i was thinking (what is he doing, it's not working)....and after like 3 minutes it finally zipped off.

bleeding like he said, try it some more. the one hard to diagnose pedal travel subaru i worked on ended up being a pin hole rust leak in the rear break line. i didn't figure it out for a couple weeks as it was enough to bleed off pressure but not enough to spew enough fluid to run down off the gas tank. it was above the gas tank so fluid was just collecting/splattering up there and not reaching the ground where i could see it. if you have rust underneath - you might want to check those lines. master cylinder failure in subarus is very rare - not impossible but they are robust and not prone to failure.

i've found like 1 out of 20 (or some number like that) are incredibly nasty to get off. 1/2" stuff will break and huge impacts won't budge them. 2 foot isn't enough leverage - you need 3-5 foot pipe over the socket wrench handle. i have a 3/4" 900 ft/lb impact gun that hasn't removed the really bad/seized ones. for those i have to use my 3/4" socket set and a 4 foot pipe and still give it some serious stank. or crack, drill, cut off the nut.

www.car-part.com Any 1999 2.2 equipped vehicle will swap - impreza or legacy. Any 1999 2.5 equipped vehicle will work (Legacy, Outback, Forester, Impreza) if you also swap the rear differnential so the final drive ratios match. And it may be the case that you don't even need to swap the rear diff of 2.5 vehicles, they can vary but in general 2.2's are 3.9 final drive and 2.5 vehicles are 4.11. But not always. 2000+ should work too but someone should verify...

exhaust is annoying. i should have mentioned - cut as absolutely little pipe off as possible so it's not too long of a gap or the metal starts to bend, making fitment really tricky. done that multiple times...GAH. good job worknig around it. so if you were at my house 2 weeks ago - i was cutting out the rear quarter and welding in new metal due to rust. i opened the gas cap and cut through the metal there, just under the filler pipe and welded in the new metal there as well. that would have freaked you out? HA HA it freaked me out too actually. i had the cap on obviously and insulated it some with shirts, etc...still a little creepy and hope to never do that again with gas in the tank.