idosubaru

simple answer - it was a "mid-year change" so to speak. old style and new style changed in 1997. swapping the entire intake manifold is a simple work around. requires two new intake manifold gaskets - get them from Subaru or make sure the're decent, some ofthe aftemarkets are thin and cheap. what was leaking? why didn't you replace the gaskets, hose, or seals that were leaking?

yes, you could do it, drive slow and carefully.. particularly being winter time/lower temps. mountains would suck - if you're going I68 through Maryland that would be an awful drive. i don't recommend that - better off just towing it with a dedicated trailer.

HA HA AAAHH HAAA! that's awesome.

i'll ship you one for $25 and 2 for $40. email a picture of the electrical connector for yours. email for pics and paypal is username here at yaaaaahhhhhooooooooooooooooooo

i hear three things all the time that i've never seen in person and rarely happen to Subarus: "fuel filter clogged" "catalytic converter might be clogged" "check your gas cap" i'm sure it happens but the discrepancy between how many times it's suggested and how often it happens is enormous. i want to go intentionally loosen mine just to see if the CEL will come on on my drive home. LOL

+1 it's easy, i've done it a bunch of times. reread what he said - don't even try a bead. it'll be messy, burn right through the metal, and warp a small patch panel due to too much heat in thin metal. (that should be interpreted as i've done exactly that a few times, not just guessing or saying it might happen). hit a few tack welds/spot welds to hold the panel in place. get enough for it to be rigid and done. a flange tool can help a lot - it gives you over lap. helps with heat soak and makes it easier to fit. there's the hand variety and an air tool variety. it just creates a step in the metal so you can overlap two pieces flush. very simple and excellent to have. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/blair-equipment-13229-P6704.aspx?gclid=CM3WooH-osQCFY9m7Aod7nAA5g

i use a 3 foot pipe and go to town on that mojo. they never come off. keyways are in no way needed if they're mangled. clean up and/or remove and seat the pulley flush and never think about it again for 400,000 miles.

P0420 an exhaust leak causes the P0420 code and could be jarred by a large pothole. almost anything can cause a P0420 code. a $5 extender on the rear O2 sensor is a cheap work around for what is a benign issue by itself.

the two lower engine mount nuts are 14mm and slightly annoying to get too. it can be done without any extra work. i've done enough that i just get annoyed and keep at it from above - but sometimes it's easier if you remove the drivers side front axle from the trans and attack it from down below.

nothing fancy to a subaru engine removal - being unfamiliar can make you dislike it though depending on you. general Subaru notes, this is true of every Subaru engine since the 1980's and i presume further: unbolt A/C compressor and flip to the drivers side leaving lines attached, no need to discharge. bunjee or ratchet straps will help hold it out of the way when pulling, but not necessary. unbolt Power steering and slide it over to the passengers side - same thing, no fluid removal needed. some people have a real issue with the torque converter bolts - i don't. i've used wrenches and 12mm socket on a 1/4" drive to remove and install them without issue. others remove the intake manifold. support the transmission up in the air - the transmission is only held up by the engine and hence it needs supported for the two long lower studs to pull all the way out. the engine needs to come up above the cross member far enough that hte engine mount studs are above it. when reinstalling - make sure the transmission is supported high enough that the engine can go back in and those lower two studs can slide into place. if the transmission isn't high enough the engine will just bang into the crossmember and not seem to line up. engine removal: unbolt 14mm exhaust nuts - heat/rust are problematic here. use a 6 point socket only unbolt 14 mm engine mount nuts remove starter, engine mount/dogbone up top disconnect alternator wiring and main intake manifold electrical connectors on rear passengers side remove air intake stuffs. the old brittle plastic PCV and vaccuum lines are going to want to break particularly if it's cold. torque converter: it's best to keep it seated - don't have it come out of the transmission. you can push back through the bellhousing access hole before pulling the engine. the TC can slide back about a 1/4" once unbolted from the flexplate. it may not want too because the center portion is corroded in place on the flexplate, but with a little effort you can keep it pushed back/seated so you don't have to concern yourself wiht it during install. when reinstalling - make absolutely certain the torque converter is fully seated or the oil pump will be broken during install. when the engine is installed the torque converter and flex plate do not touch. installing the torque converter to flex plate bolts draws them together. by knowing that - you can simply measure the distance of: A. the flexplate from the engine bellhousing mating surface. B. the torque converter to transmission bellhnousing mating surface. those distances should add/subtract such that the two will not touch when installed. if it does become unseated it's sort of an art to fully seat it sometimes. while supporting the weight of the converter with one finger, spin it, spin it, then slide it back, try again, try again, try again until it seats. if it comes all the way out - like if you install a new torque converter seal while you're in there - then be advised you may need it to seat to two different depths - it may seat once...and then again. there's like two stopping points so to speak. again - refer to the measuring exercise mentioned earlier - that keeps it straightforward.

i think that metal pipe is part of the water pump, right? you're talking about the small pipe in this picture of a new water pump? http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/ms18IYkcUpPusNP-va1f_vA.jpg

JDM engines if you trust those jdmenginedpot and others www.car-part.com online forums.

It's a power steering bracket - tigthen the one bolt and it's good. i routinely throw away A/C and power steering bolts on my own car and only leave two bolts, i'd not think twice to only leave one in place if i had to. they're large and not very dynamic in terms of stresses. that said - i've gotten right angle drills plenty of times to drill a hole that's hard to access. like timing belt tensioner and pulley holes. if you have enough space you can use a cheapy harbor freight right angle drill adapter. what i do is take a drill bit, mount it securely up against rigid metal corner and wail it as fast and as hard as you can with a heavy hammer (mine is 22 ounce). the drill bit will shear in half - making it shorter. if you have really tight clearance you can rent a hand held right angle drill that's shorter than the attachments. i've done that before as well.

read the OBDII codes. are the spark plug wires connected to the proper cylinder and ignition coil position? i'd make sure all connections/fittings are seated properly.

post in the classifed section or a moderator can move this to that section of the forum.

did the bolt shear off or stay intact? what position/condition was this part in when you took the cover off? part #11 shows a bolt and three parts: 1. bolt 2. pulley 3. sleeve 4. washer http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_8/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_1/ the timing chains do generally last forever. but it is a complicated mechanical device doing some serious work, so bad things do happen. it's probably either been worked on before or oil was likely compromised - not changed in a long time or something. the chain components and oil galleys need good clean oil supply.

Install a Subaru radiator cap. I would bet a lot of money this issue is why it was traded in/sold and it had the issue when you bought it, it just didn't exhibit symptoms when you bought it. It sounds like a headgasket. I've seen them do exactly what you're describing. The H6's can get worse veeeerrrrrrryyy slowly. I've seen them run two years like this before they start overheating due to worsening conditions. I've seen them only overheat for two summers with the A/C on while idling. It seems they start as as very small leaks and progressively get worse. Your suspicion is correct, conditioner/additives won't work when they do this - it's blowing exhaust gases into the coolant.

woah, that's a can of worms. i would assume there's bent valves, but maybe you'll get lucky. ideally you get the crank properly lined up to a non-interference position so you can rotate the cams into place first. be careful turning crank/cams if the crank/cams aren't positioned in such a way that interference will incur. did you try and turn the engine over by hand? did you try moving the crank or cams by hand once the chain is off? did you remove the chains without lining anything up? the crank and cams should be turned by hand so they're all lined up in a non-interference positino before removing the timing chain.

I would check the ABS relay - that may be the noise. It looks like it may be integrated into the ABS unit itself - possibly not replaceable or with some difficulty dissecting the ABS unit. They fail so rarely that a used one is perfectly acceptable and inexpensive. Someone probably has a used one they can sell yo\u. I've never bothered to keep them when parting out because there's zero demand. Someone on subaruoutback.org is parting out an 00-04 outback, actually two different guys are. or www.car-part.com Pulling the ABS fuse will keep the car useable. The ABS just won't work but the brakes will function as normal.

$600 +-$200

Wondering about the cruise and throttle cables/throttle body - something compromised might cause drift up or down via the throttle body/cabling? I had a non-starting 2001 EJ25 with no engine codes and no known issues. I swapped the entire intake manifold and it ran beautifully. How's that for terrible diagnosis and not at all helpful!?!?!? when it does it (with and without the cruise control on) is there a corresponding movement in the gas pedal? how significant of an increase/decrease are we talking. a tiny bit, noticeable, or a lot? Last resort guess work: $10 ebay knock sensor, swap crank and cam sensors, MAF, TPS to test. swap the entire intake manifold swap in an EA81

davebugs but i haven't seen or heard from him in awhile, boo for that.

any 1996-1998 impreza, legacy, or OB EJ22 will work. an EJ18 or 1995 and ealier EJ22 will require the exhaust manifold with it or swap your heads onto the block. $300 EJ18 with 104,000 miles 800-825-0064 prices are higher there: these are all $500, but low mileage EJ22's: 805-343-5552 114,000 miles 818-512-6100 97,000 miles 909-428-1111 124,000 miles

ABS light stays on when the car is off?! woah - that's not normal at all, that's very weird. Did you buy it like this? Have you owned the car since new and this just happened yesterday? Has the car ever been wrecked? Any aftermarket remotes, starters, heaters, stereo, alarm? Is it draining the battery or making noises? there's a black 2 (or 3?) row connector above the gas pedal. cut the ground plugs tapped to the wiring behind the connector and ground the appropriate pin. that will cause the ABS light to flash the code causing the ABS to freak out. that procedure and pictures are all over the interweb, search for Subaru ABS code retrieval procedure.

EJ22 engines are really cheap and easy to find if you're not in Denver or the PNW. if price is a concern you can easily use an EJ18 as well, easily interchangeable. EJ18 and EJ22's are routinely available for $100 - $250 on www.car-part.com or cheaper from a Upull. i've bought them between $150 and $350 and that was looking for a low mileage engine to match a friends car. what i'm seeing is that it was overheating on the previous owner. maybe they dumped stop leak in for a quick fire sale and bought some time. it's been doing this for almost the entire time you've owned it right? engine is questionable. this is completely anecdotal and one experience which i routinely discount but last melted cover engine my friend installed had rod knock very shortly after installing it. resurface the heads and use Subaru gaskets if you want to try it. EJ22 headgaskets are super duper easy and can be done in the car.