idosubaru

someone can surely guess since i'm not familiar with that flap so it probably means carb or EA81? but you may want to say what engine or vehicle you're working on? EA81, EA82, carb, FI? why not just leave it as is? kevin on subaruxt.com (and here) was getting quite a bit of backlash from installing a "hot air" style air filter from folks saying it would hurt. he dyno'ed it and i think it didn't hurt or even showed slight gains, suggesting the simple "hot air"/"cold air' notions don't really hold water all the time for every situation. i don't think it'll matter but can't you just fix whatever isn't working. repair the mechanic thing not working, the wiring keeping it from working, or the controls (relay, switch, sensor) that are inoperative?

no difference for average driving, but it's still fun to play. i've done intake mods, removed belts, lightweight pulleys (which i prefer as their single piece and not the less reliable two piece stock design)...never noticed a difference in any of my vehicles by doing those mods. maybe if i was consistently careful in driving it would be discernable but i don't micro-manage my driving style. i don't drive hard or am heavy on the go pedal but i'm not on the slow end either.

woah - that's a very strange failure. if it happened twice then i'd think something is causing it...you're thinking threads? take the sensor to a hardware store and match up the threads. alternately if you want to guess - measure the diameter with a caliper or keep inserting something until it's a tight fit - meausre it and extrapolate the size of the bolt. go to the hardware store for a bolt that fits. you can lay another 1.25 or 1.50 thread pitch bolt against any other 1.25 or 1.50 matching bolt and they'll mesh perfectly - even if the diameters are way off - the pitch is the same and they meld togehter like butter. so you can easily confirm the thread pitch that way - lay a 1.25 and 1.50 thread pitch bolt again the threads and see which ones line up. i've gone in and bought multiple bolts - guess and then buy your guess and one or two sizes larger and smaller depending how accurate you think you are. at 0.03 cents each it's a no brainer.

untrue. where did you hear that? unless by "fix" it means the VTD planetary style transfer set up in 01+ H6 transmissions and later H4's? that wasn't an "implemented fix" so much as a completely different mechanical set up. yes - changing the ATF and proper tire maintenance/rotation as well as avoiding improper towing will stave off most torque bind. quit looking for problems! you're fine. or visit WEBMD instead! it is a possibility but so are headgaskets, lower toothed timing pulleys, the other two timing pulleys, timing tensioner, loose oil pump backing plate screws (i can nearly promise 1 or more are loose), alternator failure leaving you stranded, burnt valves (have the valves ever been checked or adjusted), cam seals, crank seal...all of those are much more likely. if you're looking for long term reliability and practical use of your forester - look to those things in the list i just made - not TB.

HA HA!!!!!! true. true. okay, you're probably right. And i wouldn't want to do one on an unknown engine either. Used car lot so there's no telling if it's had stop leak in it. It has a blown transmission and good rust so I was hoping the engine was good.

ah, do you mean the 100 per day that show up on online forums?! lol i say all this having repaired H6 headgaskets, have another on hand, have some friends with the issue, and seen them on lots for sale before. never seen that much sludge before - anyone else?

ha ha ha $300, wowsers.

Looked at a 2001 H6 with well over 200,000 miles, it's for parts but I'd like the engine to be good. Two questionable items: 1. Thick black sludge in the overflow container - coating the insides, not just the bottom. Seemed way more than normal - I could reach down and get a good glob on my finger. 2. After idling for 30 minutes the overflow container level changed...I think it rose maybe 1/4 the level of the tank. Do they normally rise that much? I've never paid attention but seemed more than it should. Did not see bubbles or overheating while idling. Coolant was brand new, obviously recently filled. Maybe I can get an HC tester and just take it to the lot.

fan motor relay resistor pack (high usually works when these fail) controller (these do not fail terribly often, at least not like you're describing partiularly) door lock timers do that when they fail - you can replace the timer. it's behind the dash on the passengers side and annoying to get too. i have one freaking out on a 1996 and partially disassembled the dash, tried multiple times and never got to it.

some people have said you can swap any EJ25 short blocks. i've done Phase I and II swaps - they interchange. i haven't done a 2005+ but wouldnt' surprise me if you can swap the short block.

almost positive it's .008 intake and 0.010 exhaust google it? all 00-04 EJ25's will be the same as your 99 SOHC Phase II EJ25.

take the speed sensor to a hardware store and see if a nut threads onto the speed sensor threads? if it does - then that nut has the thread size. speed sensors are odd - but Subaru typically uses the larger sizes of M12x1.25 and M10x1.25. so look for metrics and 1.25 pitch.

carmax offered $3,000 - that seems really high but i guess they're probably only really offering him $1,500 and they got enough fat rolled into the purchase price of another car that they can say $3,000. he wouldn't get that trade in on a new car unless they were some good salesmen and he's not a good negotiator.

on imprezas, if they don't plug and play it loooks like there's a dedicated wiring harness that can be swapped running under the front seats. FSM's are available free online if it comes to it, look through those - but hopefully someone knows.

for electrical - you can compare the wiring diagrams and simply see if your cars current connector has the wiring pins/colors in the harness for the power controlled windows. as long as it gets power I would assume the drivers side is going to work via it's own controller there on the door?

Generally they come wired for most options - so yours may be pre-wired on the body side for the windows, not sure. It's pre-wired for other stuff so my guess is it would be for windows too, but i've never heard of anyone doing power window door swaps. Do the windows have a controller? if so you'll need that if it resides in the body of the vehicle somewhere and isn't just self contained in the drivers control module. Doors are so easy to replace that if a person needs a "how-to" video, they shouldn't be doing it. 1. remove 4 bolts for the hinges 2. knock the pin out of the assist arm 3. disconnect electrical connector takes 15 minutes. maybe 30 you're first time - it's a little wonky resting the big/awkward door on your leg while lining up and threading in bolts. much easier with two people but also easy by yourself depending how experienced/resilient you are with that kind of stuff.

you can check the threads where people install new relays to bypass the starting circuit. that should also point to how maybe you can test the ignition cylinder/starting circuit.

there's other causes for white under cap: 1. short trips 2. it's been like that for years and you never noticed 3. intake manifold coolant ports bleeding into intake runners are you adding coolant? if it's leaking and mixing oil/coolant then you'll need to be adding coolant as well. is it overheating? a cam seal leak will be coming from behind the cam sprocket. a head gasket leak will be coming from between the head and engine. post a picture?

+1 there was confusion for years about whether they were packed from the manufacturer or not and whether that was packing grease or high temp bearing grease. i think finally it's streamlined now into always coming with proper grease from the manufacturer, even Subaru maybe had a TSB about it. but yeah - people pack them all the time if they want special tree hugging sustainable grease or something lol. you can google it, i've seen people post about it before.

knock sensors routinely crack at the base. replace with a $10 ebay cheapy and done. easy job.

have someone stand outside the car or you while someoen drives and see which side is louder? alternately can you guess which side it is - like it "seems" to be from one side or the other? the DOJ's can actually click to i believe and that might be harder to diagnose which side since they're both so centrally located. i have one doing this right now and i know which axle it is but i haven't driven it in a few months to note which way turning makes it click. it's a different click than the standard outer CV joint clicking. typical aftermarket axle garbage. better off rebooting your original Subaru OEM's. if they were OEM axles you can drive them making that noise just fine for years and tens of thousands of miles without issue. i wouldn't trust an aftermarket to do that. Let's call the left axle L, right axle R, and new axle N: replace L with N. if the noise goes away you're done. if the noise doesn't go away then: replace R with L you can likely guess which axle seems to be the issue based on sound - or which one had the boot previously ripped open the longest or in roughest terrain (saw more offroading or more winter road treatment, etc): that way you buy one axle and not much extra work and even likely no extra work if you have any symptoms to make a good guess with. www.car-part.com for Subaru OEM axles and reboot them with Subaru boots. i've had aftermarket boots only last a 2-3 years so kind of getting tired of them.

not sure it matters but that would be 26,000 miles, not 36,000 miles right? hard to tell by the pick but i don't immediately think "ah, that's an ancient plug", it's dirty but these newer plugs are harder to see wear on.

+1, i almost said the same thing but i get the interest in rebuilding or considering it. could you rering a known good block rather than a full on rebuild? then you'd be able to mitigate oil usage which is the big detriment to used Subaru engines. getting 100,000+ miles out of a used EJ18 or EJ22 = easy. doing that without needing to add oil between oil changes is a different story. not a big deal - but for someone wanting to really assure themselves as your description insinuates...just thinking out loud.

Phase I and Phase II transmission bellhousings bolt up the same. around 1998 (i suppose with Phase II's) - the bellhousing went from 4 bolt to 8 bolt, but you can still interchange them just fine. so there are differences but they don't limit you. EJ's have cable and hydraulic clutches. the hydraulic clutches require fluid changes, slave cylinders and hoses fail, less reliable, and are annoying to bleed. not a big deal really if you're an avid hydraulic clutch lover, but not worth the added effort IMO. you can swap the bits for whichever clutch style you want. in other words that transmission isn't dedicated to one or another - just bolt on whichever style you want, but you'll be getting one or the other depending on trans and vehicle.

the residual oil/coolant may be from years ago and the HG are fine. gas smell is likely a loose line somewhere or exhaust leak. exhaust leaks routinely cause the 0420 catalyst inefficiency code. what brand headgaskets were used when it was repaired and were the heads resurfaced?